Conserte seus objetos

Direito de executar reparos

Loja

Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement

Escrito Por: Blake Klein (e outro colaborador)
  • Comentários: 14
  • Favoritos: 0
  • Execuções: 2

Dificuldade

Moderado

Passos

24

Tempo necessário

45 minutos - 2 horas

Partes

7

Sinalizadores

0

Introdução

Follow this guide to replace the rubber conductive button pad and or exterior power and volume buttons.

When reinstalling, attach the exterior plastic buttons to the rubber conductive pad and insert them together into the device.

  1. Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off. Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller. While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

    • Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.

    • Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.

    • While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

    Editar

  2. Continue sliding the controller upward until it's completely removed from the console. Repeat this same process for the other controller. Repeat this same process for the other controller.

    • Continue sliding the controller upward until it's completely removed from the console.

    • Repeat this same process for the other controller.

    Editar

  3. Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.
    Ferramenta utilizada nesse passo:
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.99

    • Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

    Editar

  4. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel: One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device

    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:

    • One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device

    • Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device

    Editar

  5. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side). Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

    Editar

  6. Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device. If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

    • Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.

    • If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

    Editar

  7. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.

    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.

    Editar

  8. Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it. Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it. Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

    • Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

    Editar

  10. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

    Editar

  11. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port. Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.

    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.

    Editar

  12. Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device. Pry up to lift the shield plate up. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

    • Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.

    • Pry up to lift the shield plate up.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

    • Remove the shield plate.

    • Clean off the old thermal paste from the shield plate and heat sink using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the heat sink before reassembly.

    Editar

  13. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

    Editar

  14. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

    Editar

  15. Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that's lightly adhered to the fan. The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that's lightly adhered to the fan.

    • The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

    Editar

  16. Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste. Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

    • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

    • Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

    Editar

  17. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector. Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector.

    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector.

    Editar

  18. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

    Editar

  19. Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the three 4.8 mm screws securing the fan.

    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver to remove the three 4.8 mm screws securing the fan.

    Editar

  20. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to lift the fan straight up and remove it from the device. Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components (such as the rubber bushings) to the new part before installing.

    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to lift the fan straight up and remove it from the device.

    • Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components (such as the rubber bushings) to the new part before installing.

    Editar

  21. Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the power/volume ribbon cable ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the power/volume ribbon cable ZIF connector.

    • Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the power/volume ribbon cable ZIF connector.

    Editar

  22. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the tapped down power/volume ribbon cable.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the tapped down power/volume ribbon cable.

    Editar

  23. Remove the power/volume board with a pair of blunt nose tweezers. Remove the power/volume board with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.

    • Remove the power/volume board with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.

    Editar

  24. Pull the rubber conductive pad out with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.

    • Pull the rubber conductive pad out with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.

    Editar

  25. Pull the power and volume buttons out with a pair of blunt nose tweezers. Pull the power and volume buttons out with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.

    • Pull the power and volume buttons out with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.

    Editar
Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

2 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Autor

com 1 outro contribuidor

Blake Klein

Membro desde: 29/01/2017

57.828 Reputação

59 Guias de autoria

Emblemas: 43

+40 outros emblemas

2 comentários

Adicionar um comentário

What happens if the small black locking flap breaks?

James Funderburk - Responder

Two angles are congruent if they have the same measure. You already know that when two lines intersect the vertical angles formed are congruent. You have also seen that if ∠A and ∠B are each complementary to ∠C, then ∠A ~= ∠B. There are other angle relationships to explore. When you expose these angle relationships, you will establish their truth using a formal proof.

Qui Ma - Responder

Adicione um comentário

Exibir estatísticas:

Últimas 24 horas: 7

Últimos 7 dias: 47

Últimos 30 dias: 165

Duração total: 3,511