Introdução

Use this guide to remove or replace the LCD and digitizer assembly in your Motorola Moto X Pure Edition.

For your safety, discharge your battery below 25% before disassembling your phone. This reduces the risk of a dangerous thermal event if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair.

Before you begin, look at the last step and make sure your replacement part matches the one shown. This guide is for replacing a screen/display that is already installed in a new frame. If you bought a bare display instead, you will need to carefully separate your old display from your phone’s existing frame, and then glue the new display in. Those steps are not covered by this guide.

  1. Insert a SIM card eject tool, bit, or a straightened paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray. Press to eject the tray.
    • Insert a SIM card eject tool, bit, or a straightened paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press to eject the tray.

    • This may require a significant amount of force.

  2. Remove the SIM card tray from the phone.
    • Remove the SIM card tray from the phone.

    • The SIM card will fall out of the tray easily.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

  3. Prepare an iOpener and heat the back of the phone along its right edge for about five minutes. This will help soften the adhesive securing the back cover.
    • Prepare an iOpener and heat the back of the phone along its right edge for about five minutes. This will help soften the adhesive securing the back cover.

    • You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the phone warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

    • A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the LCD display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

  4. In the following steps, you'll be cutting through the adhesive securing the back cover. The adhesive is laid out as seen in the first image, which shows the inside of the cover. Avoid slicing in this area to avoid damaging delicate ribbon cables.
    • In the following steps, you'll be cutting through the adhesive securing the back cover.

    • The adhesive is laid out as seen in the first image, which shows the inside of the cover.

    • Avoid slicing in this area to avoid damaging delicate ribbon cables.

  5. Hold a pair of pointed tweezers closed, and insert them into the small hole on the edge of the back cover near the SIM card slot. Use the tweezers to lift the cover up slightly, and slide an opening pick into the gap between the cover and the frame. Use the tweezers to lift the cover up slightly, and slide an opening pick into the gap between the cover and the frame.
    • Hold a pair of pointed tweezers closed, and insert them into the small hole on the edge of the back cover near the SIM card slot.

    • Use the tweezers to lift the cover up slightly, and slide an opening pick into the gap between the cover and the frame.

  6. Slide the opening pick along the edge of the phone to slice through the back cover adhesive. Try to insert the pick as far as you can underneath the cover, toward the center of the cover. There's thick adhesive on the middle of the cover that must be separated. Leave the pick in place as you proceed to the next step. Leaving the pick inserted can help prevent the glue you just separated from re-adhering.
    • Slide the opening pick along the edge of the phone to slice through the back cover adhesive.

    • Try to insert the pick as far as you can underneath the cover, toward the center of the cover. There's thick adhesive on the middle of the cover that must be separated.

    • Leave the pick in place as you proceed to the next step. Leaving the pick inserted can help prevent the glue you just separated from re-adhering.

    I did not have a pick, used a few old credit cards, leaving them in place to keep the phone back separated.

    Used a hair dryer to heat up a little, one section at a time, was enough to remove. Pulled apart slowly.

    Left adhesive on the back and on the phone, where possible, using a tiny screw driver to separate. Reused whatever adhesive remained to reattach.

    Natalie Hursky - Responder

  7. Prepare an iOpener and heat the back of the phone along its left edge for about five minutes. This will help soften the adhesive securing the rest of the back cover.
    • Prepare an iOpener and heat the back of the phone along its left edge for about five minutes. This will help soften the adhesive securing the rest of the back cover.

    • You may need to reheat and reapply the iOpener several times to get the phone warm enough. Follow the iOpener instructions to avoid overheating.

  8. Slice through the adhesive along the bottom edge of the phone. Re-heat the back cover as needed to prevent the glue from cooling and hardening.
    • Slice through the adhesive along the bottom edge of the phone.

    • Re-heat the back cover as needed to prevent the glue from cooling and hardening.

  9. Slice through the adhesive along the left side of the phone. Try to insert the pick as far as you can underneath the cover, toward the center of the cover. There's thick adhesive on the middle of the cover that must be separated.
    • Slice through the adhesive along the left side of the phone.

    • Try to insert the pick as far as you can underneath the cover, toward the center of the cover. There's thick adhesive on the middle of the cover that must be separated.

    • Stop cutting when you get to the edge of the volume buttons. Cutting past this point may damage the ribbon cables underneath the cover.

  10. Slice through the adhesive along the top edge of the phone, pulling the pick out slightly to guide it around the rear-facing camera. Slice through the adhesive along the top edge of the phone, pulling the pick out slightly to guide it around the rear-facing camera. Slice through the adhesive along the top edge of the phone, pulling the pick out slightly to guide it around the rear-facing camera.
    • Slice through the adhesive along the top edge of the phone, pulling the pick out slightly to guide it around the rear-facing camera.

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    • Carefully pry the cover away from the phone.

    • This may take a lot of force if the adhesive in the middle is still attached. As you lift the cover, you may need to use an opening pick to slice through any remaining adhesive.

    • To reinstall the back cover:

    • First use tweezers and a spudger to peel and scrape away any remaining adhesive from both the back cover and the phone's chassis.

    • Then, clean the adhesion areas with high concentration isopropyl alcohol (at least 90%) and a lint-free cloth. Swipe in one direction only, not back and forth. This will help prep the surface for the new adhesive.

    • Replacement adhesive comes in a pre-cut sheet to match the exact contours of the back cover. If that's not available, you can use a high-bond double-sided tape, such as Tesa 61395. Before installing the precut adhesive on the back cover, remove the metal insert. Install the adhesive, then replace the insert.

    • After installing the back cover, apply strong, steady pressure to your phone for several minutes to help the adhesive form a good bond.

    • If desired, you may reinstall the back cover without replacing the adhesive. Remove any large chunks of adhesive that might prevent the back cover from sitting down flush. After installation, heat the back cover and apply pressure to secure it.

    Had the pre-cut adhesive sheet for reinstalling the Moto X Pure’s back cover. It seemed like the most “original” option at the time. I tried and tried to get it aligned inside the back cover, but found it virtually impossible to do. You pretty much have to get it perfectly aligned and then stick it down all at once. If it makes contact with the cover before it’s perfectly aligned, it’s all over. You’ll never get it back off without destroying it.

    After failing with the pre-cut sheet, I resorted to the die-cut strips and corner pieces. This worked just fine.

    Jeff Carleton - Responder

  12. Use the point of a spudger to pry up the rubber cover over the battery connector. Remover the rubber cover. Remover the rubber cover.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up the rubber cover over the battery connector.

    • Remover the rubber cover.

  13. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket. Only pry the small tab on the end of the connector opposite the ribbon cable. Do not push against the connector too hard or you risk damaging the plug on the motherboard.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket.

    • Only pry the small tab on the end of the connector opposite the ribbon cable. Do not push against the connector too hard or you risk damaging the plug on the motherboard.

    Reconnecting the battery was difficult, did not align exactly. Note there are 2 slots that line up and 4 pins. Used a 10x magnifying lens with LED light, purchased to do this job. This step (reassembly) is where the magnifier came in handy. Had to move battery around a bit to get it to line up. Ended up removing adhesive tape from battery, so I could get in place to attach the connector. Battery held in place with screws and phone case, so far so good.

    Natalie Hursky - Responder

  14. Use tweezers to lift away the rubber cover over the flash connector. Use tweezers to lift away the rubber cover over the flash connector.
    • Use tweezers to lift away the rubber cover over the flash connector.

  15. Use the tip of a spudger against the corner of the flash connector to pry the connecter straight up and out of its socket. Use the tip of a spudger against the corner of the flash connector to pry the connecter straight up and out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger against the corner of the flash connector to pry the connecter straight up and out of its socket.

  16. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove twenty 2.4 mm screws.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove twenty 2.4 mm screws.

    Need to add a step for removing the bar holding the buttons in place. Step 5 from the tear down. Still can’t take the mid frame off though.

    Pieter Richards - Responder

    I stripped the threads on one of the 20 screws, had to drill it out. (Managed to do this without cracking the screen, completed battery replacement, all ok.)

    Careful removing the screws, be sure of tight grip. I saw T4 torx suggested on another site for Moto X Pure, this might grip better? Try both.

    Natalie Hursky - Responder

    I did not have to remove the screw holding the volume buttons bar in place. These stay attached, not needed for replacing the battery. Just the 20 screws shown.

    Natalie Hursky - Responder

    DO NOT REMOVE THE SILVER SCREW HOLDING IN THE VOLUME AND ON-OFF BUTTON. If these buttons fall out there are 4 very small springs that will pop out and are very hard to reinsert. If they do pop out do not use tweezers to reinsert but use a magnetic screw driver bit to reinsert.

    Michael Bedwell - Responder

  17. Use the point of a spudger to push the small clip securing the left side of the  midframe toward the edge of the phone, releasing the clip. Use the point of a spudger to push the small clip securing the left side of the  midframe toward the edge of the phone, releasing the clip.
    • Use the point of a spudger to push the small clip securing the left side of the midframe toward the edge of the phone, releasing the clip.

    On reassembly, these did not really click back in place. Held tight when reattaching the 20 (19 in my case) screws).

    Natalie Hursky - Responder

  18. Repeat the previous step to release the right side midframe clip.
    • Repeat the previous step to release the right side midframe clip.

  19. Holding the display by the edges, gently lift the midframe away from the display. Remove the midframe from the display. Remove the midframe from the display.
    • Holding the display by the edges, gently lift the midframe away from the display.

    • Remove the midframe from the display.

    My mid-frame and display were separated on the long sides but seemed a little bit stuck on the top and bottom. I used the flat end of the spudger to carefully pry the two assemblies apart at either end.

    Gary Herber - Responder

    In my case, stuck in the middle. Pulled apart very slowly, giving the adhesive a chance to separate, and not tearing whatever it was in there. Kept an eye on the inside middle, and very SLOW let it separate. Or was that the battery? In either case, go slow on all steps.

    Natalie Hursky - Responder

    Yeah, everything went according to the guide until this step. I lifted the midframe away from the screen assembly as shown and something in the center didn’t separate at all. I spent a good half hour terrified that I had missed a step or a screw or that there was something different about my phone. In the end I read the comments and very slowly and patiently lifted the midframe until something uncoupled and the two parts cleanly separated. I was certain that permanent damage must have been done, but upon reassembling everything seems to be working perfectly.

    Brian Horne - Responder

    Note to self - check that ALL (20) screws have been removed… especially if midframe is stubborn lifting up - i (almost) forgot about the one near the display cable (and it’s threaded into the motherboard instead of the frame) :)

    John Riselay - Responder

  20. Remove the tape covering the display cable connector.
    • Remove the tape covering the display cable connector.

  21. Use the tip of a spudger to flip open the locking flap on the display cable's ZIF connector. Pull the display ribbon cable straight out of its socket. Pull the display ribbon cable straight out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip open the locking flap on the display cable's ZIF connector.

    • Pull the display ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

  22. Use the point of a spudger to lift the second display connector straight up and out of its socket. Use the point of a spudger to lift the second display connector straight up and out of its socket.
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the second display connector straight up and out of its socket.

  23. Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the small PCB adhered to the top of the SIM card slot.
    • Prepare an iOpener and apply it to the small PCB adhered to the top of the SIM card slot.

  24. Slide an opening pick under the PCB to slice through its adhesive and separate it from the SIM card slot. Slide an opening pick under the PCB to slice through its adhesive and separate it from the SIM card slot.
    • Slide an opening pick under the PCB to slice through its adhesive and separate it from the SIM card slot.

  25. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove one 2.4 mm screw from the bottom of the motherboard.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove one 2.4 mm screw from the bottom of the motherboard.

  26. Starting at the bottom, lift the motherboard away from the display assembly. Remove the motherboard. Remove the motherboard.
    • Starting at the bottom, lift the motherboard away from the display assembly.

    • Remove the motherboard.

    • Only the LCD screen and digitizer assembly (with frame) remains.

    • Check carefully to make sure your replacement part matches, and that you've removed all the necessary parts from the old frame for installation in the new one.

    • When reassembling your phone replace old adhesive with double-sided tape or pre-cut adhesive strips.

    • Your new display may not come with the small metal speaker guards installed over the front-facing speaker grills. If this is the case, continue to the next step. If your display comes with these installed, you may stop here.

    note to self - upon reassembly the battery low display flashed on - but the power button didn’t work … so after a hour, took the cover off and re-seated the ribbon wire that comes from the power button - then the power button worked normally (although still trying to get the speaker guards to snap in but those are probably cosmetic anyway)

    John Riselay - Responder

    also, mine was off for more than a year and had to reset phone by running recovery restart boot-loader … (reset) described in (volume down and power) https://support.motorola.com/us/en/produ...

    John Riselay - Responder

  27. Use an opening tool to carefully pry the upper speaker guard straight up and out of the speaker grill. Remove the speaker guard. Remove the speaker guard.
    • Use an opening tool to carefully pry the upper speaker guard straight up and out of the speaker grill.

    • Remove the speaker guard.

  28. Repeat the previous step to remove the lower speaker guard.
    • Repeat the previous step to remove the lower speaker guard.

    • To reinstall the guard, line up the small tabs on the guard with the holes in the grill, and press the guard straight down into the grill.

    I’ve cracked two screens attempting to reinstall the guards. Be REALLY careful doing this.

    Chris Ringer - Responder

Conclusão

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

7 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Gregory Caporale

Member since: 17-12-2012

891 reputação

4 Guides authored

what i needed to know how to replace speaker covers

kenneth clark - Responder

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