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Use this guide to replace a broken display on your MacBook Pro 13" Unibody.

  1. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement, Remove the lower case screws: passo 1, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    David Kilbridge - Responder

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover - Responder

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh - Responder

    I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)

    Cary B - Responder

  2. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement, Lift the lower case away: passo 2, imagem 1 %32
    • Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs.

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc:

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike - Responder

    Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.

    Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!

    Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.

    Am I allowed to cry?

    Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.


    kath myers - Responder


    That was a brilliant read.

    Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.

    Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.


    Cary B -

  3. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement, Battery: passo 3, imagem 1 %32
    • For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the battery connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

    Citação de gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane - Responder

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung - Responder

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond - Responder

  4. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement, Display: passo 4, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement, Display: passo 4, imagem 2 %32 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement, Display: passo 4, imagem 3 %32
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the subwoofer/right speaker cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Be very careful to pry under the connector as shown, and not under the socket itself. Otherwise you may accidentally separate the socket from the logic board.

    Please Be Carefully With This Step, Because I Had To Resolder It Back To The Logic Board. But There Is A Black Foam Piece Over The Cable You Have To Pry Up, Lift The Foam Piece And Then Try To CAREFULLY Pry Cable Connector

    BWilliams842 - Responder

  5. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement: passo 5, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement: passo 5, imagem 2 %32
    • Disconnect the camera cable by sliding it horizontally out of its socket.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the surface of the logic board, in the direction of the optical drive. Do not pull straight up, or you will destroy the connector.

    • If you see a small plastic retainer stuck to the logic board that prevents the camera cable from sliding out, peel it up carefully from the logic board. Apply a little heat from a hair dryer or heat gun if necessary to help soften the adhesive holding it in place. Do not attempt to forcibly disconnect the cable with the retainer in place.

    • If you still have trouble, use the point of a spudger to push at each side of the connector and "walk" it slowly from its socket.

    Be careful to the piece of plastic that prevents camera cable failing out its socket! Do not force connector! Look at plastic before attempting to remove connector Plastic is partially covered by cdrom flat connector at right of camera cable connector

    Silvio - Responder

    This step is unnecessarily tricky. I’ve tried to make it better by adding images highlighting the plastic stopper thingy and showing a clear arrow of the direction the cable should be pulled.

    However, simply pulling the cable may not be enough to remove it. It sure wasn’t for me. I think there ought to be a close-up of the two little nubbins on the sides of the plug which one uses to wiggle it loose from the connector by gently prying with a tiny flathead screwdriver. I didn’t add that tip because (a) it would have made the instructions longer, (b) I didn’t think to take a photo of it, and (c) using a screwdriver carelessly next to the logic board could scratch or break components on the motherboard. A guitar pick or very small spudger might work.

    hackerb9 - Responder

    @hackerb9 Thanks for your edits and comments! I took some additional shots and tried to clean this up a little for everyone. There should be a lot less confusion now. Interestingly, neither of the two MacBook Pros used for these guides had the plastic retainer piece you folks mentioned, but I left that image in a link so everyone can still see what it looks like if needed.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thanks for incorporating some of my edits and for taking new photos.

    Are you the one who took the original photographs? If so, you did originally have the hard plastic retainer as it was in those photos, just obscured by your thumbnail. The glue on the retainer allows it to shift a bit, so it's possible you took out the cable and knocked off the retainer without noticing it.

    Your two frame animation of pulling out the plug is helpful to show the proper direction. Given the number of people who have destroyed their MacBooks from this procedure, I think we should do even better. The instruction would be clearer if it said, “Disconnect the camera cable by sliding it horizontally out of its socket.”

    Also, if you can post a link to a picture without fingers in the shot, I will add an arrow showing the proper direction. (I would have added it to the original, but visually it would have gone through your fingers.)

    hackerb9 - Responder

    P.s. this isn't as important, but where did you hear the tip about the hairdryer? I'd leave that out as firmly peeling it up works fine.

    hackerb9 -

    Negative, I’m not the original photographer. You’re right, I do see the retainer in some of the previous photos, although it wasn’t in any of the images for this particular step. May have been an oversight on the part of the original author! So I’m glad you caught it. I updated the verbiage as you requested. Don’t worry about adding arrows—at this point, if someone ignores both the images and the multiple warnings in the text, that’s no longer a fault with the guide. The heat/hairdryer tip is standard practice for anything that’s secured with adhesive—I hardly ever work on a MacBook of any vintage without using a heat gun at least a couple times. It may not be strictly necessary, but the result is much cleaner and it reduces the risk of accident.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  6. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement: passo 6, imagem 1 %32
    • De-route the camera data cable from the channel in the optical drive.

  7. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement: passo 7, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement: passo 7, imagem 2 %32
    • Remove the following screws securing the camera data cable and right speaker to the upper case:

    • Two 8 mm Phillips screws.

    • One 4mm Phillips screw.

    • One of the 8 mm Phillips screws will likely remain captive in the camera cable ground loop.

    • Slide the camera cable bracket out from under the subwoofer and remove it from the computer.

  8. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement: passo 8, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement: passo 8, imagem 2 %32 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement: passo 8, imagem 3 %32
    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-in side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket.

    • Make sure to pull the connector straight away and not straight up from its socket.

    Well, my display ended up looking like this after the repair:

    As you can see, there was a light/dark banded pattern along the bottom of the screen, corresponding to the LCD's backlight. In my case it was also accompanied by a constant high pitched whistling noise. I swear to anything that's holy, it was not coming from the fan or the speaker, but rather the motherboard itself.

    Anyway, both these problems went away when I disconnected and reconnected the connector at this stage. I'm saying this on the off chance it helps someone else.

    Jonty Levine - Responder

    It's not to clear but there is a piece of spring steel that rotates away from the main (circuit board side) of the connector....this piece sort of hugs the parameter of the screen cable locking it to the circuit board...both arms wrapped around your brother....looking closely (10x magnifier) at this cable one of the gold connections is slightly oxidized---my display arbitrarily flickers and this symptom is lessened as the temperature increases...I suspect this is the cuase of the screen flashing on/off

    brian62 - Responder

  9. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement: passo 9, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement: passo 9, imagem 2 %32
    • Remove the following two screws securing the display data cable bracket to the upper case:

    • One 7 mm Phillips screw.

    • One 5 mm Phillips screw.

    • Lift the display data cable bracket out of the upper case.

  10. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement: passo 10, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement: passo 10, imagem 2 %32
    • Use your Torx driver to remove the two outer 6.5 mm screws securing each of the two display brackets to the upper case (4 screws total).

    • Mid 2009 models require a T6 Torx driver, while Mid 2010 models require a T8.

    Hey folks, regarding the screw/driver sizes: there are separate guides for the Mid 2010 model with the T8 screws. Always use the correct guide for your model to avoid confusion, stripped screws, etc. Hope this helps!

    Jeff Suovanen - Responder

  11. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement: passo 11, imagem 1 %32
    • Open your MacBook so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.

    • Place your opened MacBook on a table as pictured.

    • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, use your Torx driver to remove the remaining 6.5 mm screw from the lower display bracket.

  12. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement: passo 12, imagem 1 %32
    • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

    • Remove the last remaining 6 mm Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

    Removing the screen assembly this way, with the computer standing on edge, is needlessly risky and difficult. By the 5th or 6th time I did this procedure (of perhaps a hundred), it dawned on me that there’s a way, way easier method for the whole lid removal job: 1. After removing the bottom cover and disconnecting power, hang the open laptop, keyboard down, facing away, over the edge of your work table with the lid assembly hanging down, monitor facing toward the table and pushed against the table edge. (If you’re klutzy, tape the main body to the table so it can’t slide around.) 2. With the unit positioned this way, you can easily disconnect the various cables & remove the 6 hinge screws. Now the lid assembly will just be hanging, easy to lift away from the main body without difficulty or danger. 3. Reverse this to put it back together.

    clinton - Responder

    Nice tip, Clinton! I’ll have to try that next time. Do you have photos of how it is done so this guide can be updated?

    hackerb9 -

  13. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement: passo 13, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement: passo 13, imagem 2 %32
    • Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.

    • Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.

  14. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Display Replacement: passo 14, imagem 1 %32
    • Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.

    Re-assembly hint: Laying the base, keyboard down, on a table top with the hinge side over the edge about 1/2" toward you is a more stable position for re-assembly than trying to do this up on its edge. This has the added benefit of being able to reinsert the torn screws vertically.

    Pete H - Responder

    May be in the wrong place but then please direct me. At this step, can I just take off the upper half (meaning the screen, LCD, and top housing shell in one) and simply replace it with another upper half of the same edition???

    cmackay13stmarys - Responder

    Yes, you can. Thanks what I'm doing now. :)

    Mike Mayaka -


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

59 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

One Comment

Does the same apply to the 2009 and 2010 15”?

IFCJW - Responder

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