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Willz Small Compact Electric Air Fryer Oil Free Quick Cook with Time & Temperature Control & Auto Shut Off Feature, Non-Stick Air Fry Basket, 2.6 Quart, 1200W.

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Accidentally plugged into 220v! Help please!

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I accidentally plugged my air fryer into 220v now it is not working and smells like something burnt in it. Please help me fixing it. Also can I convert it to 220v? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

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Uzair, what is the make and model number of your air fryer?



Hi. Thanks for the reply it is:



Assembled Product Weight

7.7 lb

Manufacturer Part Number








Assembled Product Dimensions (L x W x H)

10.30 x 9.40 x 11.00 Inches


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Uzair Abu Bakar, Normally I’d say you could be lucky and the only thing you’d need to replace was a blown fuse. However, since you say you did smell burnt electronics, which is indicative of components frying and not a fuse, you’re probably looking at blown components and possibly traces.

You’ll need to open the device up in order to get access to the PCB (controller board) where the power comes in, and all boards as it sounds like this device might not have the necessary power protection circuitry.

Once you’ve taken out the board(s), inspect them very closely under high magnification to check what / where the damage is. At the same time, take some good quality and up close pictures (using a lot of lighting, a tripod, high F-stop (aperture) and long shutter speed), then update your question with those pictures, so we can see what you see. Adding images to existing questions.

Bonus: If you take step by step pictures along with making good notes on the disassembly, make sure to write up a guide for the job here on iFixit so others may benefit from your experience.

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Thanks for the support. I have uploaded a few pictures. And the smell is coming from this little black part attached to the power cord. The transformer does not smell. Will dis assemble the rest later.


From what you say and what I see you're probably lucky and will only need to replace this black box, which should be a 5 minute fix 🙌


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The "black box" as you call it is a standard microswitch, readily available on the internet. On the other side it should have markings for the voltage and current ratings, so just find one that has the same or greater ratings on one or both of those values. Do a search for "micro switch normally open" and you should come up with dozens of options. They're all a standard size, so as long as it has the same connectors as yours and the ratings are as good or better, any of them will work.

If you have an ohmmeter or continuity tester you can check to see if it's still working; just unplug the two orange connectors, place your probes on those two tabs and press the little button on the lower left side as shown in your picture. Since yours is a "Normally Open", or NO switch, there should be no continuity when you're not pressing the button, and it should show very little resistance when you press the button.

Replacing it should be simple, just unplug both wires and unscrew that plastic piece in the lower right corner and transfer it to the new switch.

With any luck, that could be all that's wrong. You could test out that theory by bypassing the switch with a jumper wire, but since it will probably be carrying full household current, either 110 or 220VAC, use a decent size of wire and definitely make sure you're not touching it. Note that it is probably a safety interlock to ensure the lid is on before it's energized, so be aware that it could come on when you're not expecting it once you plug it into the wall socket.

Good luck; let us know what you find.

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Uzair Abu Bakar será eternamente grato(a).
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