Ir para o conteúdo principal

Glow is designed with sleep in mind. Its self-dimming, warm light lulls you into better, deeper sleep.

4 Perguntas Visualizar todos

Wireless Charging base failures or options?

I’ve had FOUR chargers go bad on me. When I contacted Casper about the first one, they sent me two more. That’s not a good sign. Those charging bases are notoriously prone to failure. There’s two pins to connect to the light to chargé and they constantly get pushed into the charging base and stop charging the light. Anyone got another way to charge the Glow light? Or repair the charging base pins?

Responder a esta pergunta Também tenho esse problema

Esta é uma boa pergunta?

Pontuação 1
1 comentário

David Pomerleau that is interesting. Post a couple of good pictures of what this all looks like, with your QUESTION. Point out where you see the damage reoccurring and let's see those base pins. I am sure there is a way in getting this fixed

Adicionar imagens a uma pergunta já existente

por

Adicionar um comentário

5 respostas

Pergunta mais útil

Hi David,

I have an Ember coffee mug with the same kind of charging setup. I was curious about its internals, so went searching for repair information on how to change the battery once it wears out. Didn't have any luck, but did come across a video of someone who went to the trouble of locating and replacing the pins you're talking about. Obviously they are likely different on your glow light, but Digi-Key sells a LOT of shapes and sizes of those pins, so there's a pretty good chance you will find something that will work.

Repairing an Ember smart mug with replacement parts from Digi-Key

Here's another video posted on the Digi-Key forums page.

Ember Smart Mug Charger Repairs - Maker, DIY - Engineering and Component Solution Forum - TechForum │ Digi-Key

Obviously you're on your own with regard to figuring out how to open up your charging base and getting to the pins, but once you do, the soldering and replacement should go about the same.

Esta resposta foi útil?

Pontuação 4
Adicionar um comentário

Thanks guys! I was able to fix it. :)

Block Image

Update (11/26/23)

This was the pin i used for the fix: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/100500282...

Block Image

Esta resposta foi útil?

Pontuação 3

5 comentários:

Sweet! Hey, can you post a link to the pins you ordered to fix it? That way people with this same problem in the future (and you know there will be) will know what to get.

por

Yeah, I also would be interested to know what pins you have used.

por

This worked for me with part number ED9001-ND.

https://www.digikey.co.nz/en/products/de...

Process is pretty simple:

- Peel off the rubber base - it's stuck to the metal base plate with a double sided adhesive disk.

- Unscrew the base plate and remove.

- Pop off the white plastic caps that are securing the circuit board with the tip of a Stanley knife.

- Remove the board, turn it over, use a soldering iron to free the existing pins and solder on the new ones.

- Reassemble - Once back in place, I covered the board with a strip of electrical tape instead of the white plastic caps. One of my metal bases was still sticky enough just to put the rubber straight back on, the other needed some new double sided tape.

por

Thanks! I will give this a try. Just curious if your repair is still working.

also which contact failed on yours? all of ours have been the inner contact.

We bought the set, and both chargers failed. They did send us new ones, but it took almost 6 months. [they claimed they were waiting for a shipment]

The one that gets the most use, which is very little use, failed within a couple months. The second charger was not really used and it got swapped over to the other light.

3 dead chargers, 1 working for the time being...

por

Just did the repair on two chargers with part ED9001-ND, an old 2019 one and a very recent replacement that immediately failed.

The 2019 one had the longer PCB and passthrough original pins, while the new one has a short PCB and surface mounted pins. The part worked for both. The old board required some extra solder to remove the old pin, while the new one was a little annoying to align because the pins are not placed in the middle of the pad but a little closer. On one I replaced both pins and on one I replaced only the inside failed pin. The results seem equivalent.

All in all an easy fix, and the new pins seem much more resilient. And if not, I can swap a new in.

(BTW, the two chargers both draw 5W when the light is off, but the new one draws more than double when the light is on.)

por

Adicionar um comentário

Hey! I’m new here & in all this. I tried following what you did but the board looks different and I’m having trouble removing it from the plastic base. Any suggestions?

Block Image

Esta resposta foi útil?

Pontuação 0
Adicionar um comentário

@ggsgj6pvg0ex9y1 I think you're almost there, but definitely agree that the circuit board you have is completely different from Pogopooc's board. It looks to me that your board is being held on by four melted plastic pins that will probably need to be cut off in order to remove the board from the base. It's the same kind of mounting used for a lot of keyboards and other things where the manufacturer has assumed the part is never going to be removed; in other words, they assume it's non-repairable. Well, we've got news for them, 'cause we're going to fix it! :)

Here's your picture with those four plastic pins circled in red. Your two spring contacts (AKA pogo pins) are circled in yellow.

Block Image

You can either take a utility knife and trim those four pins off, or a soldering iron will also make short work of them. Once they're off, you should be able to take the circuit board off the base. From there you'll need to figure out what kind of replacement pins you need. The fact that you have solder domes on the reverse side of the board tells me you're looking for what are called through hole pins rather than the surface mount pins used on Pogopooc's board and the Ember mug charging base that I'm working on right now.

In general you'll want to measure the length of the pins and use that as your main search criteria for finding replacements as well as looking for through hole rather than surface mount too.

Esta resposta foi útil?

Pontuação 0

3 comentários:

I can confirm that the red circles identify plastic caps that need to come off - a bit of leverage with the tip of a Stanley knife did the trick for me. I've repaired five bases now with a mix of long and short circuit boards. I used the surface pin linked in my previous post for all of them.

por

Appreciate all the info! It's frustrating how easily these original charger pins break and how Casper made them more difficult to replace.

I believe I found the same replacement pin part number on Amazon, but not sure how many pins given per order, any thoughts?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DEFT5RM/?co...

por

@ggsgj6pvg0ex9y1 Ouch, that's the price for one pin. Including shipping, that's over $10 for a single pin. The ones I ordered from AliExpress came in at about $2.00 for 10 of them, or more like $0.20 each. I mean, I understand if that's the only one you can find, but seems to be massively overpriced to me.

Note that 0.177" is almost exactly 4.5mm, which just happens to be the size I ordered from AliExpress for my Ember Mug charging plate. Here's a link to the ones I ordered (note that I haven't received them yet).

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/325680524...

You can take a look at my Ember Mug guide for ideas, but it's not complete since I don't have the pins yet.

Ember Mug Charging Base Pogo Pins Replacement

por

Adicionar um comentário

Yes, I had also these kinds of plastic caps. I removed them with a knife. I used this pins here:

Block Image

Unfortunately, I can't find the exact dimensions anymore.

Esta resposta foi útil?

Pontuação 0
Adicionar um comentário

Adicionar a sua resposta

David Pomerleau será eternamente grato(a).
Exibir estatísticas:

Últimas 24 horas: 12

Últimos 7 dias: 91

Últimos 30 dias: 467

Duração total: 4,345