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Wireless music streaming device that connects to external speakers; released in 2012. The Connect has an Ethernet port, 2 sets of RCA jacks, a power port, and is Wi-Fi capable.

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Sonos Connect won't light up when plugged in - no power?

Hello!

I have two similar devices, both with the same issue — a Sonos Connect and a Sonos ZP90.
Neither device will power on—when plugged in, the light on the device doesn’t come on, it won’t connect to the network and won’t operate (at least, so it appears). It seems like the device itself in both cases isn’t receiving power—I’ve tried multiple outlets and power cables to power the devices, but with no luck (so it’s the device in both cases.) Is it possible that there’s a blown internal fuse that I can replace, or a burned out power supply or something similar that’s replaceable? Thanks!

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Hi @edthomas25 ,

Here’s the ifixit Sonos Connect Internal Power Supply Replacement guide that may help.

Sonos doesn’t release the wiring diagrams so you will have to trace the power input circuit to find out where the problem is. Use a DMM and start at the input and follow the tracks. If there is a fuse and/or a MOV surge suppressor then it will be one of the first components you come across.

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Thanks @jayeff !

My son and I took both Sonos units apart, and after testing the components on both, it looks like the MOV on both are burned out.

We were going to get replacements on Digikey — but what’s the replacement part model I need?

The stamp on the MOVs we need to replace is:

SHM

X1400 ~ Y1250

E102 M F

How do I read this label to find a correct replacement?

Thanks!

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@edthomas25

Here is a compatible replacement. It is a C901U102MUVDBA7317 which should be the 1st item in the list. (the others are non stock and have to be ordered in) Click on the number in the list to get more details

I can't link it directly as the Digikey website says "404 Lets try again" when I do and you click on it, so I can only link the page that it is on.

The specs for the original SHM X1400 ~ Y1250 E102 M F you have are:

SHM = manufacturer

X1400 = Class X1 400VAC

Y1250 = Class Y1 250VAC

E =Temperature code Y5R The temp code for the replacement I listed is slightly different i.e. Y5V. I couldn't find one with the exact same spec but it should be close enough I think.

102= 1000pF (or 1nF)

M = 20% capacitance value tolerance i.e. 800pF -1200pF value range is possible in product from manufacturer

F = ?

Usually these are damaged due to power surges, outages etc or the incorrect voltage supply being connected to the device, e.g. product sold/bought in USA (120V AC supply ), plugged into European power supply (230V AC)

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@edthomas25 post some picture of your MOV with your QUESTION. That way we can see what you see. Adicionar imagens a uma pergunta já existente

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I just repaired my Sonos Connect that stopped working after about 10 years in operation.

Symptoms: No correct boot, flickering front LED, no connection nor sound.

After opening in line with the Fixit guide, I found smoke marks around the largest capacitor on the power supply board. Other parts just had some smoke marks but after careful cleaning no other signs of destruction.

Thus I ordered a new 22 μF 400V TH 105°C Elko, cut the connections of the old one at a distant of about 6mm from the PCB (did not want to solder on the board directly), put some insulation around the Elko (as it touches some the PCB components) and soldered it to the 6mm connections.

After closing the casing, plugging in the power and the ethernet, it connects and plays the music as before.

All above is very simple without the need of removing any boards.

(The Elko was about 2 EUR but is surely cheaper if you have a good source).

As often, electronics problems originate from the simple components!

Hope this helps.

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Ed Thomas será eternamente grato(a).
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