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Liberado em abril de 2010 com as opções de processador i5 de 2,4, 2,53 GHz Core ou i7 de 2,66, 2,8 GHz Core

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High Temperature / High Fan speeds

Hello everyone!

I have acquired a 2010 MacBook Pro and it has a really bad overheating problem.

Is it supposed to get really hot? Is it because of the old CPU and GPU and they just run hot?

I replaced the thermal paste and it still gets hot with slightly better thermals. I wanted to try and see if liquid metal would be an option although I’m not sure if the heat sink is copper or aluminum since I know it will happily eat away at it in a matter of hours.

Any suggestions?


Edit: Here are the screenshots. I hope they help

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How about getting a better view of the systems thermals. Install this app TG Pro. Take a snapshot of the main window (you may need to grow the window so all of the sensors and fans are visible) while idling and a second once you have it working for a good day so we can see the high water marks. Post both here for us to see Adding images to an existing question

Don't use Liquid Metal! It won't help you here! Once we see what's happening we can guide you on whats needed.


Alright ill try that and put a snapshot on. Thanks Dan


@activoid - It does look like your heatsink has failed! Review @mayer answer below.


I took it apart once again and didn't find any stains. However I did find that when I last replaced the thermal paste it was a sloppy job and I probably didn't put enough on it. As of me typing this I am averaging at around 140 *F. But ill try to use the computer throughout the day doing normal everyday taks and see if it will stay below 100 *C


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Liquid metal is dangerous for your system and not at all necessary on such Macbook to run it within temperature range. The Mac with i7 processor is of course running a bit warmer than i5 of the same model but you don’t say the one you have nor what you mean with “hot”, a bit of numbers would help in evaluation.

If you can enclose a screenshot taken from an app like TG Pro or MacsFanControl would help.

Some questionable “techs” are easy on reflowing any board with graphic issues they get hold of and that model is known to have such issue.

Check with a good light your board still has intact transparent whitish filling around GPU corners, if that’s turned to beige, brown or absent it might have been reflowed and some shorting created in the process.

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Look on the logic board at the crimped end of the heat sink. You are looking for a stain where the liquid contents of the heat sink may have leaked. If you find it, replace the heat sink.

MacBook Pro 15" Unibody (Mid 2010) Heat Sink

MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Mid 2010 Heat Sink Replacement

Imagem de MacBook Pro 15" Unibody (Mid 2010) Heat Sink


MacBook Pro 15" Unibody (Mid 2010) Heat Sink


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