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Gas Dryer heats and runs for 5 min and shuts off

Kenmore model 110.73942101 the dryer will heat up and run for about 5-10 min and then shut off. It will do this three times and then run great it will do it on every load. I have do all the test and every item checks out fine timer,thermister, heat relay and high limit switch I have also checked the resistance on the thermistor at the specified temps the gas valve coil test all meet resistance guidelines. I replaced the control board and it still does the same thing While doing all this I have noticed it starts to run and call for heat the igniter will have 1 volt at the plug but it will take about 1-2 seconds before it will start to glow and thats win it will shut off the dryer. What would cause this

Thank you

Vernon

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Jim I did test all items many times but I replaced the parts thinking there may be a break down in the parts but it seems that the problem is an intermittent problem because it runs fine after the three shutdowns. I'm thinking that the PC board has a cold solder joint. Thank you for your help and wizdom.

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Dryers have several thermal switches for overheat protections. . Locate them, test with ohm meter right after it shuts down. Its a long shot but thats where i would look first. Gas…There may be an intermediate air flow restriction , gas regulator resetting.. careful evaluation.

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Jim

Thanks for the suggestion I have checked everything and I have changed the Faric temp switch the heat relay

the thermistor the flame sensor the high limit thermostat the coils and the ignitor and it still does the same thing

I have tried running it without and dryer vent hose incase there was a restriction and it still will runs for a short time and them stops you can restart it and it will do it three times and them it will dry the load without shutting off. I have made all the test to the timer and they check fine and the only other thing is the PC board I have no way to check it but it was also changed 5 years ago for a different problem. It would not run at all back then I still have that pc board and I thought I could send it in and get it rebuilt and see if that fixes the problem but I’m a little sceptible.

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Well Vernon, Sounds like you are keeping your eye on the ball. Your made some really smart advances, And you tested not guessed…. LOL my little pun.. sometimes, when you cant test things directly you find a way to test them indirectly. And it sounds like you have done just that.. Go back over all your test again. to make sure you have a clear understanding of the system and the tests your reading.. Hey, you convinced me. In a professional repair manual the last test is the one you can test.. Because you tested every thing and found nothing wrong.. Rely on your own common sense and don't second guess it until you have to.. So here is the last test. Replace component with known good component.. something to keep in mind here. Your going to have to make your own mistakes or your not going to ever learn anything…keep in mind, its a mistake, not a failure…good luck. keep at it…

Jim

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supposed to be: last test is the one you cant test...sorry

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-check eBay and google for circuit board. . Those boards are a dime a dozen p-lus they warrant it.. I have a Motorola atrix HD phone I hard bricked it cause it was netw. I got the led screen and two at&t mother boards. rebuilt the phone. taught myself how to unlock the bootloader and root it. flashed custom rom with upgraded operating system, unlocked the network so I can use any sim and the only mistake I make should have been a complete failure was, I hard bricked it.

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all of it cost me 23 dollars..

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If your model has the flat glow bar ignitor, the only way to accurately test it is with an amp probe, not voltage. With the amp probe hooked around either wire from the ignitor, it should pull about 3.2 amps before the gas valve opens to let the gas in. It has to maintain the amperage the entire time the valve is open. The thermostat will open when the temperature is reached and will close when more heat is needed.

If your not getting 3. amps at the ignitor, the ignitor will continue to glow but the gas valve won’t open. The ignitor has faile to pull the amperage needed to open the valve . Replace the ignitor

If you have 3.2 amps constantly and no gas, then you have failing coils on the gas valve. Usually you can hear the coils click when trying to open. If you hear the click but no gas, then the coils aren’t holding open.

If you have no amps at the ignitor, check the wiring to ignitor. Then check the disc thermostates in the back of dryer. Unplug the dryer and check the resistance/ohms. You should get 0.0 ohms- 2.0ohms. If you don’t then that is the failed component.

The timer on a gas dryer sends voltage to the thermostats for the cycle selected. The thermostats do most of the work cycling on and off when tempature is reached.

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Vernon será eternamente grato(a).
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