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2.0GHz, 2.3GHz, or 2.6GHz quad-core Intel Core i7 processor (Turbo Boost up to 3.8GHz) with 6MB shared L3 cache.

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heat sink standoff on logic board broke off ... adhesive suggestions

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i was told that jb weld 8265 S can be used to re-glue the standoff back onto the logic board …. what have you used to fix this ?

i want to get the right type of adhesive before pulling off the heat sink to re-apply new thermal paste and fix this issue.

thanks in advance for your answers, have a great day.

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I would just stick with a Cyanoacrylate Glue like: Loctite Super Glue Gel.

You’ll first need to take the spring off and make room for the clamping of the stud.

The trick is aligning the stud back into the correct position as the fiberglass grain need to be matched up. You also will need to setup a small C clamp and wood blocks to hold the stud in place as the glue hardens. Don’t try cleaning the surfaces as the roughness will make a better joint.

While it might sound strange, you want to breathe your breath onto the area as the moisture in breath will set the glue.

Update (11/09/2018)

@zero7404

Here’s the C Clamp I use: Granger - Wilton Light Duty Cast Iron C-Clamp. I use a few small wood blocks which I made so the pressure was onto the logic board and not the SMT components. It doesn’t take much pressure but its important the pressure is equally applied across the pin and parallel to the logic board.

As for heat that won’t be an issue here. Thats what Apple used to put them on. You also don’t have any room for anything else without putting the SMT capacitor near it at risk. The only issue is the when you put the screw back in don’t over tighten as you could pull it off again!

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Breathing on Cyano helps setting it ? World is full of wonders ;)

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i didn’t think superglue would be a good enough fix …. thought it would be brittle and not withstand the heat, but if it indeed will work and hold the stud in place after i screw the heatsink back on, i’d try it.

not sure about a c-clamp, but i can find something that can apply some weight to the stud while the glue is setting.

thanks for the suggestion

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@zero7404 - Can you accept the answer?

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I have this same issue. Tried J B Weld to no avail. Wondering if the Super glue worked.

Update (04/09/2019)

The Super glue worked perfectly. Thank you so much!

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Super Glue did work!

I used Loctite gel and after 3 months now it is still holding up. Just be careful not to get it around other areas on the board.

FYI: I had also tried JB Weld and it did not hold up, Super Glue (Cyanoacrylate Glue) did the trick!

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Thanks, I'll let you know how it goes.

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Sue - Do remember not to twist the stud as you tighten the screw. Cyanoacrylate glues don't have great sheer strength and you want to align the texture of the fiberglass so the stud fits as tightly as possible.

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The problem is the way Apple designed it - the “wings” on the heatsink act as springs and they apply a pull-up pressure on those stands constantly, eventually rip them off the board. You can use super glue to re-attach it, but bend the wing down slightly until there is no gap between the hole and the stand like it was before to eliminate that pull-up pressure. As long as all four screws are tightened down, the heatsink would make perfect contact. I just did mine.

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Tan Phu Nguyen - One could argue the tension of the spring is too great. But Intel defines the needed pressure so the heat sink is making proper contact to the chip.

The real issue is not the pull up pressure its the torquing of the shaft when loosening or tightening the screw which is sheer which the stud was not designed to handle well.

I always use a pair of pliers to hold the stud to lessen the sheer pressure. Altering the spring tension won't really fix the issue, and will create a new problem!

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