Here's the [link|https://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/content/pdfs/116980-1.pdf|service manual] that should help.
It shows that the capacitor part number is 0CZZA2005J but I cannot find one using the part number or even one that has the same overall specifications.
Any CBB65 motor start/run capacitor with a value of 35µF and having a VW >270VAC should suffice.
Looking at the schematic (see p.9 of manual) no display, no response etc is not indicative of a bad capacitor, as the capacitor is essentially only in the compressor motor start winding circuit to help start the motor i.e. both windings are used to start the motor. Once the motor runs up to speed a centrifugal switch in the motor operates and disconnects the start winding and capacitor and it continues to run on the run winding only. The switch releases once the motor has stopped so that the start winding is back in circuit for the next start.
-
-
There's a 250V T3.15A fuse on the control board that supplies power to the low volts transformer on the control board which I assume would be the power for the display, control board etc. that's maybe worth checking first. If the fuse is blown get an exact replacement (or 2 or 3 you may need them in case the first replacement blows straightaway) i.e. 250V T3.15A. ''The T indicates that it is a slow blow fuse'' and not a standard fast acting fuse. If you used a 3.15A fuse it would blow immediately due to the high inrush currents that may flow when the power is first connected, whereas a slow blow fuse of the same rating will hold until it has passed. We're talking about <5mS for this to occur. Apologies if you know all this already.
-
-
If the fuse has blown then there's always a reason for this to happen. Unfortunately, there is no schematic for the control board to help if the problem of a blown fuse points to something on the board. Testing the compressor motor windings is also a problem because at rest the start and run windings are in parallel connection and also most probably also very low resistance so you won't know which winding may be short circuit if this is what you suspect blew the fuse.
Hopefully this is of some help
=== Update (07/26/2022) ===
Hi @pawcharles
I've drawn a rough outline on the schematic showing what to test.
''If it were assembled'' then you would connect the Ohmmeter across the two prong of the AC cord plug and you should see a resistance value which is the low volts transformer on the control board. On the schematic image it is the green path that then connects to the red path.
''Since it is disassembled'' first check the path from where the brown wire connects on connector CN-AC1 to where it exits the board wherever the black wire connects to. ''This path is shown in red.'' If you place the Ohmmeter between these two points (arrowed in red) you should see the resistance of the LV transformer primary winding. If you don't then there's a problem on the board or the transformer and you will have to chase the path on the board by visually following the tracks/connections. Maybe connect directly across the LV transformer itself first. It has two windings, a primary (which you are testing for) and a secondary which you may have to test later on). Both windings should show continuity and not open circuit. i don't know what their resistance value would be but it shouldn't be that high <500 Ohms I would think.
If that path is OK then check the secondary winding of the LV transformer i.e. measure directly across the terminals of the transformer. This is just in case when you connect power it is getting to and through the primary OK but there is no output because the secondary is open circuit
Next check the path from the AC input white wire (or maybe blue) to the capacitor term.C to the brown wire that connects to CN-AC1 on the board. Then check the other wire i.e. black (or maybe brown) from the AC input to where it connects to the control board. This is shown in green on the diagram.
Here's the [link|https://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/content/pdfs/116980-1.pdf|service manual] that should help.
It shows that the capacitor part number is 0CZZA2005J but I cannot find one using the part number or even one that has the same overall specifications.
Any CBB65 motor start/run capacitor with a value of 35µF and having a VW >270VAC should suffice.
Looking at the schematic (see p.9 of manual) no display, no response etc is not indicative of a bad capacitor, as the capacitor is essentially only in the compressor motor start winding circuit to help start the motor i.e. both windings are used to start the motor. Once the motor runs up to speed a centrifugal switch in the motor operates and disconnects the start winding and capacitor and it continues to run on the run winding only. The switch releases once the motor has stopped so that the start winding is back in circuit for the next start.
There's a 250V T3.15A fuse on the control board that supplies power to the low volts transformer on the control board which I assume would be the power for the display, control board etc. that's maybe worth checking first. If the fuse is blown get an exact replacement (or 2 or 3 you may need them in case the first replacement blows straightaway) i.e. 250V T3.15A. ''The T indicates that it is a slow blow fuse'' and not a standard fast acting fuse. If you used a 3.15A fuse it would blow immediately due to the high inrush currents that may flow when the power is first connected, whereas a slow blow fuse of the same rating will hold until it has passed. We're talking about <5mS for this to occur. Apologies if you know all this already.
If the fuse has blown then there's always a reason for this to happen. Unfortunately, there is no schematic for the control board to help if the problem of a blown fuse points to something on the board. Testing the compressor motor windings is also a problem because at rest the start and run windings are in parallel connection and also most probably also very low resistance so you won't know which winding may be short circuit if this is what you suspect blew the fuse.
Hopefully this is of some help
=== Update (07/26/2022) ===
-
Hi @pawcharles
I've drawn a rough outline on the schematic showing what to test.
''If it were assembled'' then you would connect the Ohmmeter across the two prong of the AC cord plug and you should see a resistance value which is the low volts transformer on the control board. On the schematic image it is the green path that then connects to the red path.
''Since it is disassembled'' first check the path from where the brown wire connects on connector CN-AC1 to where it exits the board wherever the black wire connects to. ''This path is shown in red.'' If you place the Ohmmeter between these two points (arrowed in red) you should see the resistance of the LV transformer primary winding. If you don't then there's a problem on the board or the transformer and you will have to chase the path on the board by visually following the tracks/connections. Maybe connect directly across the LV transformer itself first. It has two windings, a primary (which you are testing for) and a secondary which you may have to test later on). Both windings should show continuity and not open circuit. i don't know what their resistance value would be but it shouldn't be that high <500 Ohms I would think.
If that path is OK then check the secondary winding of the LV transformer i.e. measure directly across the terminals of the transformer. This is just in case when you connect power it is getting to and through the primary OK but there is no output because the secondary is open circuit
-
Next check the path from the AC input white wire (or maybe blue) to the capacitor term.3 to the brown wire that connects to CN-AC1 on the board. Then check the other wire i.e. black (or maybe brown) from the AC input to where it connects to the control board. This is shown in green on the diagram.
+
Next check the path from the AC input white wire (or maybe blue) to the capacitor term.C to the brown wire that connects to CN-AC1 on the board. Then check the other wire i.e. black (or maybe brown) from the AC input to where it connects to the control board. This is shown in green on the diagram.
Here's the [link|https://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/content/pdfs/116980-1.pdf|service manual] that should help.
It shows that the capacitor part number is 0CZZA2005J but I cannot find one using the part number or even one that has the same overall specifications.
Any CBB65 motor start/run capacitor with a value of 35µF and having a VW >270VAC should suffice.
Looking at the schematic (see p.9 of manual) no display, no response etc is not indicative of a bad capacitor, as the capacitor is essentially only in the compressor motor start winding circuit to help start the motor i.e. both windings are used to start the motor. Once the motor runs up to speed a centrifugal switch in the motor operates and disconnects the start winding and capacitor and it continues to run on the run winding only. The switch releases once the motor has stopped so that the start winding is back in circuit for the next start.
There's a 250V T3.15A fuse on the control board that supplies power to the low volts transformer on the control board which I assume would be the power for the display, control board etc. that's maybe worth checking first. If the fuse is blown get an exact replacement (or 2 or 3 you may need them in case the first replacement blows straightaway) i.e. 250V T3.15A. ''The T indicates that it is a slow blow fuse'' and not a standard fast acting fuse. If you used a 3.15A fuse it would blow immediately due to the high inrush currents that may flow when the power is first connected, whereas a slow blow fuse of the same rating will hold until it has passed. We're talking about <5mS for this to occur. Apologies if you know all this already.
If the fuse has blown then there's always a reason for this to happen. Unfortunately, there is no schematic for the control board to help if the problem of a blown fuse points to something on the board. Testing the compressor motor windings is also a problem because at rest the start and run windings are in parallel connection and also most probably also very low resistance so you won't know which winding may be short circuit if this is what you suspect blew the fuse.
Hopefully this is of some help
+
+
=== Update (07/26/2022) ===
+
+
Hi @pawcharles
+
+
I've drawn a rough outline on the schematic showing what to test.
+
+
''If it were assembled'' then you would connect the Ohmmeter across the two prong of the AC cord plug and you should see a resistance value which is the low volts transformer on the control board. On the schematic image it is the green path that then connects to the red path.
+
+
''Since it is disassembled'' first check the path from where the brown wire connects on connector CN-AC1 to where it exits the board wherever the black wire connects to. ''This path is shown in red.'' If you place the Ohmmeter between these two points (arrowed in red) you should see the resistance of the LV transformer primary winding. If you don't then there's a problem on the board or the transformer and you will have to chase the path on the board by visually following the tracks/connections. Maybe connect directly across the LV transformer itself first. It has two windings, a primary (which you are testing for) and a secondary which you may have to test later on). Both windings should show continuity and not open circuit. i don't know what their resistance value would be but it shouldn't be that high <500 Ohms I would think.
+
+
If that path is OK then check the secondary winding of the LV transformer i.e. measure directly across the terminals of the transformer. This is just in case when you connect power it is getting to and through the primary OK but there is no output because the secondary is open circuit
+
+
Next check the path from the AC input white wire (or maybe blue) to the capacitor term.3 to the brown wire that connects to CN-AC1 on the board. Then check the other wire i.e. black (or maybe brown) from the AC input to where it connects to the control board. This is shown in green on the diagram.
Here's the [link|https://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/content/pdfs/116980-1.pdf|service manual] that should help.
It shows that the capacitor part number is 0CZZA2005J but I cannot find one using the part number or even one that has the same overall specifications.
Any CBB65 motor start/run capacitor with a value of 35µF and having a VW >270VAC should suffice.
-
Looking at the schematic (see p.9 of manual) no display, no response etc is not indicative of a bad capacitor, as the capacitor is essentially only in the compressor motor start winding circuit to help start the motor and usually once the motor runs up to speed a centrifugal switch in the motor operates and disconnects the start winding and capacitor and it continues to run on the run winding only. The switch releases once the motor has stopped so that the start winding is back in circuit for the next start.
+
Looking at the schematic (see p.9 of manual) no display, no response etc is not indicative of a bad capacitor, as the capacitor is essentially only in the compressor motor start winding circuit to help start the motor i.e. both windings are used to start the motor. Once the motor runs up to speed a centrifugal switch in the motor operates and disconnects the start winding and capacitor and it continues to run on the run winding only. The switch releases once the motor has stopped so that the start winding is back in circuit for the next start.
There's a 250V T3.15A fuse on the control board that supplies power to the low volts transformer on the control board which I assume would be the power for the display, control board etc. that's maybe worth checking first. If the fuse is blown get an exact replacement (or 2 or 3 you may need them in case the first replacement blows straightaway) i.e. 250V T3.15A. ''The T indicates that it is a slow blow fuse'' and not a standard fast acting fuse. If you used a 3.15A fuse it would blow immediately due to the high inrush currents that may flow when the power is first connected, whereas a slow blow fuse of the same rating will hold until it has passed. We're talking about <5mS for this to occur. Apologies if you know all this already.
If the fuse has blown then there's always a reason for this to happen. Unfortunately, there is no schematic for the control board to help if the problem of a blown fuse points to something on the board. Testing the compressor motor windings is also a problem because at rest the start and run windings are in parallel connection and also most probably also very low resistance so you won't know which winding may be short circuit if this is what you suspect blew the fuse.
Here's the [link|https://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/content/pdfs/116980-1.pdf|service manual] that should help.
It shows that the capacitor part number is 0CZZA2005J but I cannot find one using the part number or even one that has the same overall specifications.
Any CBB65 motor start/run capacitor with a value of 35µF and having a VW >270VAC should suffice.
-
Looking at the schematic (see p.9 of manual) no display, no response etc is not indicative of a bad capacitor, as the capacitor is essentially only in the compressor motor start winding circuit to help start the motor and usually once the motor runs up to speed a centrifugal switch in the motor operates and disconnects the start winding and it continues to run on the run winding only. The switch releases once the motor has stopped so that the start winding is back in circuit for the next start.
+
Looking at the schematic (see p.9 of manual) no display, no response etc is not indicative of a bad capacitor, as the capacitor is essentially only in the compressor motor start winding circuit to help start the motor and usually once the motor runs up to speed a centrifugal switch in the motor operates and disconnects the start winding and capacitor and it continues to run on the run winding only. The switch releases once the motor has stopped so that the start winding is back in circuit for the next start.
There's a 250V T3.15A fuse on the control board that supplies power to the low volts transformer on the control board which I assume would be the power for the display, control board etc. that's maybe worth checking first. If the fuse is blown get an exact replacement (or 2 or 3 you may need them in case the first replacement blows straightaway) i.e. 250V T3.15A. ''The T indicates that it is a slow blow fuse'' and not a standard fast acting fuse. If you used a 3.15A fuse it would blow immediately due to the high inrush currents that may flow when the power is first connected, whereas a slow blow fuse of the same rating will hold until it has passed. We're talking about <5mS for this to occur. Apologies if you know all this already.
If the fuse has blown then there's always a reason for this to happen. Unfortunately, there is no schematic for the control board to help if the problem of a blown fuse points to something on the board. Testing the compressor motor windings is also a problem because at rest the start and run windings are in parallel connection and also most probably also very low resistance so you won't know which winding may be short circuit if this is what you suspect blew the fuse.
Here's the [link|https://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/content/pdfs/116980-1.pdf|service manual] that should help.
It shows that the capacitor part number is 0CZZA2005J but I cannot find one using the part number or even one that has the same overall specifications.
Any CBB65 motor start/run capacitor with a value of 35µF and having a VW >270VAC should suffice.
-
Looking at the schematic (see p.9 of manual) no display, no response etc is not indicative of a bad capacitor, as the capacitor is essentially only in the compressor motor start winding circuit to help start the motor and usually once the motor runs up to speed a centrifugal switch in the motor operates and disconnects the start winding and it continues to run on the run winding only.
+
Looking at the schematic (see p.9 of manual) no display, no response etc is not indicative of a bad capacitor, as the capacitor is essentially only in the compressor motor start winding circuit to help start the motor and usually once the motor runs up to speed a centrifugal switch in the motor operates and disconnects the start winding and it continues to run on the run winding only. The switch releases once the motor has stopped so that the start winding is back in circuit for the next start.
There's a 250V T3.15A fuse on the control board that supplies power to the low volts transformer on the control board which I assume would be the power for the display, control board etc. that's maybe worth checking first. If the fuse is blown get an exact replacement (or 2 or 3 you may need them in case the first replacement blows straightaway) i.e. 250V T3.15A. ''The T indicates that it is a slow blow fuse'' and not a standard fast acting fuse. If you used a 3.15A fuse it would blow immediately due to the high inrush currents that may flow when the power is first connected, whereas a slow blow fuse of the same rating will hold until it has passed. We're talking about <5mS for this to occur. Apologies if you know all this already.
If the fuse has blown then there's always a reason for this to happen. Unfortunately, there is no schematic for the control board to help if the problem of a blown fuse points to something on the board. Testing the compressor motor windings is also a problem because at rest the start and run windings are in parallel connection and also most probably also very low resistance so you won't know which winding may be short circuit if this is what you suspect blew the fuse.
Here's the [link|https://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/content/pdfs/116980-1.pdf|service manual] that should help.
It shows that the capacitor part number is 0CZZA2005J but I cannot find one using the part number or even one that has the same overall specifications.
-
Any motor start/run capacitor with a value of 35µF and having a VW >270VAC should suffice.
+
Any CBB65 motor start/run capacitor with a value of 35µF and having a VW >270VAC should suffice.
Looking at the schematic (see p.9 of manual) no display, no response etc is not indicative of a bad capacitor, as the capacitor is essentially only in the compressor motor start winding circuit to help start the motor and usually once the motor runs up to speed a centrifugal switch in the motor operates and disconnects the start winding and it continues to run on the run winding only.
There's a 250V T3.15A fuse on the control board that supplies power to the low volts transformer on the control board which I assume would be the power for the display, control board etc. that's maybe worth checking first. If the fuse is blown get an exact replacement (or 2 or 3 you may need them in case the first replacement blows straightaway) i.e. 250V T3.15A. ''The T indicates that it is a slow blow fuse'' and not a standard fast acting fuse. If you used a 3.15A fuse it would blow immediately due to the high inrush currents that may flow when the power is first connected, whereas a slow blow fuse of the same rating will hold until it has passed. We're talking about <5mS for this to occur. Apologies if you know all this already.
If the fuse has blown then there's always a reason for this to happen. Unfortunately, there is no schematic for the control board to help if the problem of a blown fuse points to something on the board. Testing the compressor motor windings is also a problem because at rest the start and run windings are in parallel connection and also most probably also very low resistance so you won't know which winding may be short circuit if this is what you suspect blew the fuse.
Here's the [link|https://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/content/pdfs/116980-1.pdf|service manual] that should help.
It shows that the capacitor part number is 0CZZA2005J but I cannot find one using the part number or even one that has the same overall specifications.
Any motor start/run capacitor with a value of 35µF and having a VW >270VAC should suffice.
Looking at the schematic (see p.9 of manual) no display, no response etc is not indicative of a bad capacitor, as the capacitor is essentially only in the compressor motor start winding circuit to help start the motor and usually once the motor runs up to speed a centrifugal switch in the motor operates and disconnects the start winding and it continues to run on the run winding only.
-
There's a 250V T3.15A fuse on the control board that supplies power to the low volts transformer on the control board which I assume would be the power for the display, control board etc. that's maybe worth checking first. If the fuse is blown get an exact replacement (or 2 or 3 you may need them) i.e. 250V T3.15A. ''The T indicates that it is a slow blow fuse'' and not a standard fast acting fuse. If you used a 3.15A fuse it would blow immediately due to the high inrush currents that may flow when the power is first connected, whereas a slow blow fuse of the same rating will hold until it has passed. We're talking about <5mS for this to occur. Apologies if you know all this already.
+
There's a 250V T3.15A fuse on the control board that supplies power to the low volts transformer on the control board which I assume would be the power for the display, control board etc. that's maybe worth checking first. If the fuse is blown get an exact replacement (or 2 or 3 you may need them in case the first replacement blows straightaway) i.e. 250V T3.15A. ''The T indicates that it is a slow blow fuse'' and not a standard fast acting fuse. If you used a 3.15A fuse it would blow immediately due to the high inrush currents that may flow when the power is first connected, whereas a slow blow fuse of the same rating will hold until it has passed. We're talking about <5mS for this to occur. Apologies if you know all this already.
If the fuse has blown then there's always a reason for this to happen. Unfortunately, there is no schematic for the control board to help if the problem of a blown fuse points to something on the board. Testing the compressor motor windings is also a problem because at rest the start and run windings are in parallel connection and also most probably also very low resistance so you won't know which winding may be short circuit if this is what you suspect blew the fuse.
Here's the [https://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/content/pdfs/116980-1.pdf|service manual] that should help.
+
Here's the [link|https://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/content/pdfs/116980-1.pdf|service manual] that should help.
It shows that the capacitor part number is 0CZZA2005J but I cannot find one using the part number or even one that has the same overall specifications.
-
Any motor start/run capacitor with a value of 35µF and having a VW >270VAC should suffice. Here's an [https://www.ebay.com/itm/262271495594|example] to show the cost.
+
Any motor start/run capacitor with a value of 35µF and having a VW >270VAC should suffice.
Looking at the schematic (see p.9 of manual) no display, no response etc is not indicative of a bad capacitor, as the capacitor is essentially only in the compressor motor start winding circuit to help start the motor and usually once the motor runs up to speed a centrifugal switch in the motor operates and disconnects the start winding and it continues to run on the run winding only.
There's a 250V T3.15A fuse on the control board that supplies power to the low volts transformer on the control board which I assume would be the power for the display, control board etc. that's maybe worth checking first. If the fuse is blown get an exact replacement (or 2 or 3 you may need them) i.e. 250V T3.15A. ''The T indicates that it is a slow blow fuse'' and not a standard fast acting fuse. If you used a 3.15A fuse it would blow immediately due to the high inrush currents that may flow when the power is first connected, whereas a slow blow fuse of the same rating will hold until it has passed. We're talking about <5mS for this to occur. Apologies if you know all this already.
If the fuse has blown then there's always a reason for this to happen. Unfortunately, there is no schematic for the control board to help if the problem of a blown fuse points to something on the board. Testing the compressor motor windings is also a problem because at rest the start and run windings are in parallel connection and also most probably also very low resistance so you won't know which winding may be short circuit if this is what you suspect blew the fuse.
Hi @pawcharles
Here's the [https://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/content/pdfs/116980-1.pdf|service manual] that should help.
It shows that the capacitor part number is 0CZZA2005J but I cannot find one using the part number or even one that has the same overall specifications.
Any motor start/run capacitor with a value of 35µF and having a VW >270VAC should suffice. Here's an [https://www.ebay.com/itm/262271495594|example] to show the cost.
Looking at the schematic (see p.9 of manual) no display, no response etc is not indicative of a bad capacitor, as the capacitor is essentially only in the compressor motor start winding circuit to help start the motor and usually once the motor runs up to speed a centrifugal switch in the motor operates and disconnects the start winding and it continues to run on the run winding only.
There's a 250V T3.15A fuse on the control board that supplies power to the low volts transformer on the control board which I assume would be the power for the display, control board etc. that's maybe worth checking first. If the fuse is blown get an exact replacement (or 2 or 3 you may need them) i.e. 250V T3.15A. ''The T indicates that it is a slow blow fuse'' and not a standard fast acting fuse. If you used a 3.15A fuse it would blow immediately due to the high inrush currents that may flow when the power is first connected, whereas a slow blow fuse of the same rating will hold until it has passed. We're talking about <5mS for this to occur. Apologies if you know all this already.
If the fuse has blown then there's always a reason for this to happen. Unfortunately, there is no schematic for the control board to help if the problem of a blown fuse points to something on the board. Testing the compressor motor windings is also a problem because at rest the start and run windings are in parallel connection and also most probably also very low resistance so you won't know which winding may be short circuit if this is what you suspect blew the fuse.
Hopefully this is of some help