a alguns dias o meu computador parou de ligar e ao que tudo indica o problema é a bateria, já que o sistema já estava pedindo pra trocar.

eu estava buscando o modelo correto para trocar a bateria, mas pro meu computador eu só consigo achar baterias pro macbook air late 2010 A1370 7,3V.

Porém, o meu computador é 14,5V, queria saber se ele é compatível e se seria um problema comprar coma voltagem diferente.

obrigada.

Meu MacBook começou a travar sua tela e reiniciar com o barulho dos 3 bipes, que indica problemas com a Memória Ram.

Fiz o teste de retirar elas, limpar e recolocar, infelizmente continuou o problema.

Fiz o teste de utilizar apenas um Slot e apenas uma Unidade de Memória, e ambas funcionaram normal em ambos os Slots! Agora eu consigo utilizar o MacBook normalmente com apenas um Slot, mas se eu utilizo os dois Slots, após um tempo o Macbook trava a tela e desliga.

Ps: Utilizo Memória Ram da Elpida (2x4gb) 12800S.

Ligando direto nos contatos da placa logic board

Grato

Exrcicio d teste. (tentei escrever Exercicio de teste) e ele saltou várias letras como podem ver.

Outras vezes aparece um ee que não teve um duplo click na tecla e.

Este facto ocorre aleatoriamente.

Como se trata já de um equipamento de substituição, queria saber se existiam mais casos iguais ao meu.

Cumprimentos

David Crespo

⟐ Edited by author setembro 21, 2018 at 12:39 GMT-7

⟐ Commented outubro 26, 2025 at 22:49 GMT-7

⟐ Answered outubro 29, 2025 at 1:11 GMT-7

The mid 2017 21.5" model of the iMac is new and this issue isn't major, so it's not surprising that the few people who have sewn up their computers after an upgrade or fix either haven't encountered it yet, or found the true cause.

The problem is that after reassembly, the microphone input is faint and muffled. It functions, but barely, and is essentially unusable. The culprit turns out to be the adhesive strips used for reassembly. The frame of this iMac model seems identical to its 2012-2015 predecessors, so ostensibly the same strips made for these earlier models would work here too. However, the microphone has been moved from the top of the computer (near the webcam) to behind the frame at the bottom of the screen.

Note the location of the "4R" strip in the following picture:

https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

Now look at the location of where the microphone has been moved to:

https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

One can clearly see that the "4R" strip completely covers the microphone and the holes in front of it, deadening any sound picked up.

Knowing this, the solution is simple. Make sure the microphone works properly before using any adhesive. Then, apply the adhesive strips, but when laying down the "4R" strip, cut away the portion covering the microphone (and a little bit more from each side to be safe).

Hopefully, this post will save others from hours of exasperation! :)

Cheers!

⟐ Answered novembro 25, 2025 at 21:56 GMT-7

My iPhone has connected perfectly until today, when it started doing the same thing as the iPad. All other USB devices work fine, and my iPad and iPhone both connect with the windows computers at work just fine. I've tested with both USB ports on my MacBook, and with several known working cords, both Apple branded and not.

I've done a lot of searching, and haven't found any definitive answers or solutions, but today I thought I would try something.

I use Windows 10 in VMWare on my laptop for work (and yes I made sure it wasn't running before trying to sync to make sure that wasn't causing the connectivity issues). But today I opened Windows on my MacBook, and when I plugged in my iPad I told it to open in Windows, and voila it connected to iTunes in windows fine and stayed connected.

This leads me to believe it is some sort of software issue on the MacBook side of things. I even tried closing itunes and just plugging my phone in to charge, and it again acted as though I was continuously plugging it in and unplugging it, but stayed connected in Windows.

Is there something I can do to correct this? I thought it might be an iTunes issue, but since it wouldn't even keep my phone connected enough to charge without iTunes open, I'm assuming it's an OSX issue.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!

⟐ Commented outubro 14, 2025 at 22:45 GMT-7

Other symptoms includes No audio devices found(cant play sound)

Is there any possible reasons for this? I highly doubt is a software problem.

hey guys an update on my issue, i never went for a fix, the problem went away after i left it to rest for a few days, i believe its an overheat issue. my screen has been working fine for the past few months since reporting this. Not sure it will come back, but this is definitely a faulty hardware, and Apple is not admitting it!

Affected model: 2016 Macbook Pro touch bar

I never went for a fix till now and using the same mac, the problem still comes and go, usually happen when overheating/heavy usage. I brought my macbook for de-dusting the fans and apply new heat paste for my processor in hope that it can reduce overheating issues, replacing the whole display costs too much.

Apple did an update for this issue for the FlexGate issue: 13-inch MacBook Pro Display Backlight Service Program. Sadly it doesn’t cover the T-CON issues.

⟐ Commented julho 01, 2025 at 7:48 GMT-7

⟐ Answered julho 09, 2025 at 5:09 GMT-7

After some brief surfing around this morning, I went to work with my MacBook running fine as usual. After coming home, my keyboard and trackpad are both unresponsive. What's a bit more unsettling is that, in the System Preferences, it's not even recognizing a trackpad as being connected.

After doing some searching around, I've found that some people ran into this issue with MacBook Pros, and it was because of a ribbon that had become loose underneath the battery. I'm wondering if it's possibly the same problem for me with my MacBook Air. I hadn't read about anyone with an Air experiencing the same problem.

Any help would be appreciated.I would love to get my Air working so I don't have to constantly use my external keyboard/mouse.

Thanks!

Edit: The only key that works on the keyboard is the power button.

⟐ Answered julho 07, 2025 at 6:09 GMT-7

⟐ Commented dezembro 28, 2021 at 8:19 GMT-7

⟐ Answered fevereiro 03, 2026 at 10:27 GMT-7

Here's what's going on:

I have an A1226 15" MacBook Pro (mid 2007) with serial number: W872218YX92. I can't get it to turn on; whether it's plugged into the AC adapter or on a battery, I get no visible or audible response from the machine when I push the power button--none of the lights turn on, none of the fans spin, etc.

I've read about the nVIDIA 8600GT issue, but I don't get any response from the machine at all, so I'm not sure if that's what the problem is. The other thing I've read could be at fault is the 'Left I/O' board', but this thing won't turn on when using AC or a battery. One thing I haven't tried yet is to open it up and check the top cover power switch; is the power switch something that frequently breaks?

Lastly, when the MagSafe adapter is plugged into the machine, the LED on it always glows green--whether or not the battery is plugged in. When the battery is plugged in, the 'charging' LEDs on it do not light up or blink and thus the battery does not charge.

⟐ Answered julho 10, 2025 at 23:42 GMT-7

Thanks

⟐ Commented março 16, 2026 at 8:00 GMT-7

⟐ Commented junho 30, 2025 at 13:09 GMT-7

Right after a normal reboot, it suddenly stopped working: I get the startup chime, a bright white screen (without the Apple logo or pointer), and nothing else. If I don't shut it off, the fan starts working after a few minutes. If I close down the lid, the screen remains lit.

I've tried all the usual fixes and combinations:

• Plug in the "system install" pen drive
• Reset the SMC
• Reset the PRAM
• Hold down the Option key
• Hold down the C key (for rEFIt)
• Battery powered, MagSafe powered...

Nothing works!

I just get the chime and the permanent white screen. I don't have any kind of adapters, so I can't check anything involving cable connections. Is there something else I can try? Am I facing a broken logic board? Can it break "just like that"?

Well, folks: I finally found out what went wrong, and I'll try to explain it as well as my ignorance of Apple hardware, OS-X software, and firmware, and computers in general, allows me.

But first things first. I have good news for you: if you ever get the white screen of death. don't panic! And, unless still under guarantee, don't take your computer to an Apple center for them to steal you yet more money by making you pay for a new logic board and/or a new hard drive. Probably you can solve the problem by yourself, spending only a few -very well invested- dollars in a pentalobed or a Phillips #00 screwdriver, plus maybe a Torx T5 one.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but, as far as I've guessed and investigated, it works like this: Your MacBook Air's firmware (probably also any other MacBook system, but I can't be sure about that) is always instructed to try to, in the first place, boot off certain piece of hardware: be it the hard disk, an external DVD unit, the installed USB stick, or a network boot server. This option can be set in the OS's Startup Manager. When the actual boot setting is any other than the hard drive, then, at boot time, the firmware will look for the instructed medium to boot off, and if for whatever reason it doesn't find it, then it will try to boot off the hard drive as a "last resource". BUT, when the actual boot setting is "hard drive" and, for whatever reason, the data is corrupted or something is wrong with the boot sector, then the computer will NOT try to find any alternative device, or a network, where to boot off: it will keep forever trying to boot off the hard drive, and thus you get the dreaded white screen of death. The Apple engineers are so smart!!

But it's actually not dead: neither your motherboard nor your drive is dead. They're just in a deep coma.

How can you wake it up from this coma? Simple: remove the back cover and disconnect the hard drive. Believe me: with the right screwdriver, it's very easy to do and even you can do it. Then, and only then, if there is NO hard drive where to try to boot off, the firmware is programmed to look for some other medium: USB stick, external DVD, network... So, plug this medium in and... voilá! There you get your little spinning animated icon and, eventually, the Apple's apple; the startup disk will boot and there you are anew to life.

Now, once you've managed to boot, the FIRST thing you have to do is go to the Startup Manager and set the firmware to boot off your whatever startup medium is (otherwise, upon reboot you'll be in the same S*ITuation). After this, you can plug back in your hard drive and reboot your computer. Hopefully, it will boot off as instructed (the USB/DVD/Network), it will recognize your hard disk, and you can use the Disk Utility to repair it, reformat it, or whatever you want to do with it. After this, everything will go back to normal, and you've saved the Apple care center's $500 bill.

Hope this will help someone to avoid the three weeks anguish I've gone through... I'm sorry to say that it is A SHAME on Apple's part to sell such cr*p and not respond for it, nor inform about it on their support page, but joyfully get your money when you take your laptop to repair.

Welcome any correction or precision to this post.

⟐ Commented maio 04, 2023 at 17:46 GMT-7