tojaert

hello, in facts: iPhone 6s, no water damage, all is fine but... After every 5 minutes, when screen is off phone is going...

hello wbeatty16, 0.9A is normal charging current for iPads. If drops down to 0.0A in cycles it can means there is a short circuit on loading path or power ic has a problem. Change the "lightning" cable original first. If it doesn't get better, you have to take it apart and see what's going on inside. Such iPad problems can come from different origins and affect several different sub-systems. It will be crucial under what circumstances it happened for the first time. If you know microelectronics and can solder, check and replace the usb regulator (1610a3) then the DOCK tape. If not, find a good repair service. (1) regards,

hello Winston, just one: change it if in doubt. Cost circa 4 $ + soldering. If you can do it yourself cost of work is 0$ If not, cost of work is circa 150$ + 75-100$ for screen de-assy insurance (quite fashionable fee recently in the US). Not a cheap thing. (1) regards,

hello ahmedp800, you have got faulty touch interface, big metal square on screen flex. It should be replacement. Many times, “small, Chinese hands” when assembly a big, 12.9” screens use a used interfaces and flexes for new product. Most of those are re-soldered from broken and flooded ones and normally not working properly. Inspect your screen, I guess - there are lots of fingers signs and small, blue stamps? Everywhere? This is a reason why most brand new screens are with no touch interface - it needs to be transferred from your original, broken one - that’s a guarantee full compatibility. how to solve the problem: the first choice: I thing, you should send back this “brand new” screen (if possible: transport foil is on it or replace with a new one more time) and find other best offer. Somewhere was a guy, in LA who refurbish a tablets screens. His work is much better than Chinese, new screens. Find him on eBay. The second choice is a buy a brand new touch interface with the flex for your model (circa...

hello Chris, did you disconnect the battery when connecting the new screen? A lot of iPad faults are caused by connecting accessories (the screen is one of them) at 12-16V. This is usually tragic. In the right hands (first rule of electronics: do not work on live current unless you are doing a test. Otherwise: never, never) sometimes it works. Only sometimes. When connecting the screen - people try to plug the connector into the port, sometimes they wander ... moving a little left, a little right. Some use force ... believing it didn't pop in ... It kills iPads like yours. By moving the connector over the pins, you find those with signal voltage (0.3-1.2V) and sometimes those with power supply (3.8-16V). Imagine what could happen to the delicate electronics destined for 0.8V when you serve them 12, 14 or more volts. How to fix it now ... it would be nice to check your new screen is still working fine. Connect it to another tablet (if you have the option, if not - ask a technician at a good repair shop) and...

hello tamer, its looks like Chinese copy, hard oled one. To be sure, look on sensor set loco.

hello John, I don't see any chance for repair at home (without equipment and knowledge). The iPad is the one that crashes the most when handled inappropriately. You'll have to remove the screen, it's simple, though repair shops often charge $ 75 extra for fault coverage. You'll have to remove the motherboard - that's where the most problems are. Many technicians have failed at this stage. No experience, rush ... after all, no elementary knowledge of microelectronics. Most rely on YouTube - that's wrong. The lack of schematics makes it difficult, so only experienced electronics can manage somehow. Don't do it at home, it is beyond your technical capabilities and (I guess) knowledge. It is no longer a screen replacement, but an intervention in the electronics of the device, with all the consequences. My advice, find a good repair shop or user who has been through a similar problem in your area (I will try to get you in touch with someone I know who had a similar problem - west AU if I remember correctly)....

hello EdoS, it looks like you have handed over your device to a scammer who is getting dubious knowledge from YouTube. It's sad, unfortunately quite common. Rule one: never ever repair your iPad in an unconfirmed repair shop. This fragile device is easy to break in the wrong hands. Requires knowledge and years of experience in repairing microelectronics. But, to the point: Touch problems in the ipad 4,5,6,7 series, where the LCD matrix is separated from the digitizer, are related to the extremely low quality of the Chinese, polycarbonate interchangeable glasses with a glued digitizer. (I will not mention the electronic reasons at this stage - which are also very important). Replacing the touch screen in this series, only 4-5 of the 10 screens are usable. I wonder why the button is disconnected and the touch function is lost. Correlation known from iPhones. Did your Home button also get damaged when the original screen was destroyed? The Home button is connected with a different ribbon and all signals are...

hello Expolosions&, those don't exist. All we use is knowledge and experience in electronics gained through years of work. I would use 120ohm/450mA circ.20%. If it can't stand it change on 240ohm / 350mA circ.20%. That’s all. (1) regards, Update (01/25/2021): hello Explosions &… its absolutely 240/350mA 0201 coil in VDD_screen line, connected to 3 near connector pins and small capacitor right. The other side goes straight to 8566 backlight ic (see picture). (1) regards

hello Mark, quite important question: did it happen after screen replacement or fall? Of course, sometimes the screens also stop working by themselves, but that doesn't happen often. We need to find out what the last moment of a working tablet was. If this cannot be determined, you will need to seek the service of a professional technician. In your case, the tablet works without turning on the screen - look at it in a dark room. Is there a slight illumination from the LCD backlight? The answer will narrow your search a bit. ahead of time (for other readers): if this happened after screen replacement and the backlight works. Another question: did someone disconnect the power from the motherboard when replacing the screen? If not, we are looking for burnt induction parts near the video socket. If so (I always assume that if so, he did it wrong - it only applies to tablets), we are looking for video signal paths on the motherboard. Unfortunately, in both cases it cannot be fixed without microelectronics...

hello Jason, you forgot about the brackets that hold the sensor unit and loudspeaker in place. In addition, there should be small, round anti-dust sponges and a square patch of black glue under the black sensor cube (flood illuminator, proximity sensor). All this included is a sufficient protection against the penetration of light from the backlight. You can transfer it all safely from the original screen by using a tweezers, alcohol (for unglue) and a hair dryer (only use on the glass side). If you don't have these parts, you can buy everything on eBay for a few dollars. (1) regards,