Bobby Gorden

Remove all passwords and delete all finger prints before starting. 1) aftermarket home buttons will NOT have touch I'd, Touch I'd will only work on the original home button. 2) ALWAYS DISCONNECT THE BATTERY before disconnecting anything else. 3) Discharge the main board after disconnecting the battery by pushing and holding the power button 4) Remove the screen 5) Use extreme caution when disconnecting the home button connector 6) Use heat on the front of the screen around the home button area. If you cannot touch the screen you are using too much heat. 7) VERY GENTLY remove the home button. 8) Watching very carefully and using extreme caution lift under the metal plate under the home button flex connector. 9) Finish your screen swap. I follow these steps EVERY time and by experience or by luck, I haven't had anymore Touch ID issues. I hope this helps.

It seems there are a lot of varying solutions for the Touch ID not working. These need to be consolidated here: Foremost: If you replace the home button from an aftermarket supplier, the Touch ID will never work. To replace the home button, you MUST go to an Apple Repair Store to get the home button programmed for Touch ID. Prior to IOS 10, if you used an aftermarket Home Button you would get an error 53 which "Bricked" your phone. This to my understanding has been corrected by Apple and you will no longer get an error 53 code. So the following is assuming that you are using the original Home Button and all connections are not damaged, clean and connected/ seated properly. *Always disconnect the battery and then press the home button for 30 seconds to discharge any power in the motherboard. 1: 6s and 6s Plus, the home button flex is built into the LCD, there is no extension cable from the home button to the motherboard and no reason to try and lift the home button connector cable where the home button...

Old Turkey, I changed suppliers on 2 of the screens and still the same results. I am wondering if there is something in the "after market screens" that is causing this or if it is something in the phone programming since the old screen always works other than the cracks and dead spots.

Pin 3 is -0v in standby and 3.3v when on.

I had the same problem after a screen repair. I also replaced the ribbon and speaker and still no sound. It seems Apple devices do not like having things replaced. I had a similar problem on a 4S after a power ribbon replacement where the phone went into a permanent search mode. I tried all the "fixes" I could find on line and nothing worked. It is an Apple "thing" and it doesn't happen on every phone which leads me to believe it is a software/ hardware issue. I also think the same thing happens to the Apple repair technicians and we just don't hear about it because they have all the resources to fix the issues that come up during these repairs. I never solved or found a fix to either problem.

Jonathan, I had the same issue. I even went back in and replaced the flex ribbon and speaker for the camera/ proximity sensor and yes, the two gold contacts are for the ear speaker. Even after installing a new ribbon and speaker, still no sound from the ear speaker. This is an Apple problem. I repair all types of devices and Apple is the only manufacturer that I have had issues like this with. I had an Iphone 4S that needed a new power button. Replaced the button and flex and after booting up, the phone was stuck in search mode. It never saw the status of having a sim card or no sim card. It seems to me something in some Apple devices does not like having things disconnected. So it seems guys like us are just out of luck when this happens. Just take solace in the fact it is a hit and miss when it comes to the Apple devices.

I have been having this issue also regardless of the supplier. I am thinking it has to do with adhesive thickness being to thin which allows the glass to rest directly on top of the LCD. I don't know the specs but I am pretty sure there should be some clearance between th glass and LCD. Most likely measure in micro inches. Thoughts?

I have been repairing a number of digitizers and LCD's over the last six months. I have had a couple of Samsung Galaxy S4's that are pressure sensitive after replacement. I am thinking the new adhesive is not thick enough. If the glass digitizer is right on top of the lcd, wouldn't this cause the sensitivity issue as the digitizer is bonded around the perimeter of the lcd and if the glass is in direct contact with the LCD, then this would cause some LCD distortion/ coloration. I do not know the thickness specs of the adhesive for models where the digitizer and lcd are bonded together by a double sided adhesive. Also, I am not sure which models use the Clear UV liquid adhesives to bond the glass and LCD. Just a thought on the adhesive thickness around the perimeter of the LCD keeping the glass just slightly above LCD.

I agree with Mike. This isn’t a very good “Tear Down” at all. The video doesn’t even complete the tear down. For most users, they won’t even bother with doing the modified battery and neither the instructions on this page or the video gives any instructions on how to just do a stock battery replacement. This gets a thumbs down from me.

Mike Rowe is exactly correct, Lenovo Ideapads WILL NOT accept 3rd party batteries.

These instructions are not complete. The mute switch has to come apart which is not covered here and there are three plastic posts that have to go into the bracket. Disassembly of the flex needs to be covered in the final disassembly instructions. Also disassembly of the power buttons from the bracket should be covered in the instructions.