Quando isso acontecer, você poderá ver um gráfico da reputação que ele adquiriu ao longo do tempo.
Aqui está uma prévia de como será o gráfico:
Evento | Contagem | Delta |
---|---|---|
Alguém completou seu guia | 23 | 54 |
Voto à favor da postagem | 3 | 36 |
Seu comentário foi apagado por ter sido marcado como inapropriado | 1 | -100 |
By the way, I build bicycles too!
I used a guitar pick and my thumbnail to detach the plastic. Then I used a hair dryer gun at low temp carefully to loosen the glue (which is actually only at the top and bottom of the phone. Just be cautious removing the back since you need to detach the ribbon cable from the flash. Once it was removed, I used the case opener tool to gently lift the flash assembly loose, leaving the grey adhesive on the case back. After the flash was removed,I used an Xacto blade to start to remove the adhesive which peeled off relatively easily, and was then stuck back on to the flash. There is a clear silicon type of "gasket" on the case back that will also peel off easily, so I transferred that to my new case back and stuck the flash in its place. The lens cover was the same.. just a little adhesive on the outer ring. I just put some pressure with my finger on the front side, and it popped out, adhesive still intact. Everything checked out, so I snapped it all together again! Easy Peasy!
The black & copper contact piece is missing from my iPhone. Does that explain why my phone won't restore and keeps re-booting? I have tried every kind of restore with no luck. Any ideas?
The original iPhone model had an aluminum case. The 3 and 3gs were plastic. The 4's went to a glass and aluminum frame. The 5 appears to me to be more steel than aluminum. The problem I saw with the 5 is a lack of seals like the 3's which meant oxidation will form around the edges (corrosion).
A friend spilled some Sangria on his iPhone 5c, and now the earpiece speaker doesn't work. I recommended swabbing it with a Q Tip and a sparse amount of Windex, but if that doesn't work I'm looking at replacing the earpiece. I do have a question on this though... could the spill have messed up the proximity sensor or the controlling chip for it? He is under warranty but I don't think Apple will replace it because it was a spill.
There is a much easier way to fix a "dead" power switch without taking the iPhone apart ... much! See the video, and my comments here:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDNRic3Ht...
Okay, I replaced the Lightning dock, and it wasn't easy, but if you go slow and start with the headphone jack and the microphone first, then work your way to the Lightning dock, making SURE it's properly seated! then on to the speaker and power cables, it's not too bad. I did have a problem with the case closing properly. I think it was the Lightning dock or headphone jack that wasn't completely seated down. I readjusted it and tightened the screws but the LCD assembly was still not quite seated properly.
When I powered it up I got a message saying the USB device was drawing too much power and to disconnect it! I think the logic board is fried. Anybody have ideas on this? I plan to return it under my 30 day warranty if I can't get it working.
The removal of the rubber boot IS mentioned in step 31!
That's true... no need to remove the MLB. The cable slides out easily.