brandon k

I have practically no airflow in this truck. Been that way since I bought it 2mo ago. Have pulled blower motor under dash...

my 1994 chevy suburban c1500 2wd is having problems. During acceleration it tries to fall flat on its face. Bogs way down...

I've got a 1994 chevy suburban c1500, with the 5.7L gas engine. If I'm not mistaken it has the 4L60E transmission. I'm...

I have a 1994 chevy suburban (didnt give that year option when choosing for post) with the 5.7L gas engine. She idles...

I would recommend taking a hose and soaking the exterior of the van and seeing what leaks. Might be windshield?

Everything I've found says it is in the black fuse box under the hood. Aftermarket relays are gonna look different. Might have to follow the wire back from the wiper motor. If the relaysnisnt marked. The prongs will be the same even if the relay looks different.

Ok couple things here. Take your battery to be tested. If it is on then have them charge it. Put it back in the car. See if it will start after putting a charged battery. If it does, then with the engine running disconnect the battery. If it dies you need a new alternator. Which would keep the battery from charging. Either way you need a battery that can hold a charge. Go into your fuse blocks and check your fuses one by one. Takes some time but will tell you if a fuse is the problem. Start there n we can go further if needed. You'll especially need to check the larger fuses. Those are the ones that let the vehicle start.

Normally you need EPA certification to mess with refrigerants, but this is no different than people messing with their car ac systems. If your ac system is pretty much empty, then releasing the last few psi is ok. Its r134a which is pretty much inert and not ozone-damaging, plus if its just remnants of the charge (NOT the fill charge) then its considered a diminimus amount by the epa and thus they don't care. Once you do, I'd recommend pressure testing for 30m to see how bad the leak might be. If you see a noticeable drop in pressure (1psi+ is noticeable and means the charge won't last very long) then it won't really be worth it. If you aren't going to do that… then yes, purge the system, pull a vacuum, and weigh the charge back in to the weight specified on the data tag inside the cabinet. Might want to add 0.5oz to that to compensate for refrigerant that will be left in the line when you do it. Go slow. If charging with container of refrigerant upright then just go by weight, and charge til you're there....

It can be a few hours worth of work, or more, depending. You have to recover the refrigerant, do the change-out, pressure test for least 30min, pull a vacuum (least 30min usually), then weigh in the charge. This isn't something I recommend the average DIY try to do. You need epa certification to legally handle refrigerant. You need a recovery machine. Oxy-acetalyne torch with brazing rods. Tank of dry nitrogen. Vacuum pump. Refrigerant scale. Also, do NOT just try and stab any old compressor. Ever. The system is designed to run with one particular compressor. Start stabbing other stuff and you'll have big problems. Need the model number off the compressor to replace it with a proper one. As for the brazing, that's standard. You're dealing with high pressures. Vehicles are done the way they are because they're made to be taken apart. Pulling motors n such would be difficult if they were brazed. Refrigerators and hvac systems etc aren't. They're designed to be put together and left to do their thing.

you have stripped the screw head out. If they aren't torqued in hard you may be able to use a flat tip to get them out. Select one that will fit snugly into whats left of the slots in it and press down while turning. This method normally works for me.

Check to see if the compressor is running. If not, you'll need a meter to see why. Incoming power to compressor? Start cap good? If the compressor is running, is it really hot? Is the hot gas line hot? Line from compressor warm? Suction line cool? Condenser fan (if it has one) running? Is the evap fan inside the freezer running? Check it out and see what isn't running.

Alot of the times the issue is the belt that drives the brush. Check that. You may need to get a new one.

Step 1 Look for the data tag on the Murray lawn mower. These tags are found in the rear of the mower or under the seat of riding lawn mowers, or in the center of the deck of push mowers. Step 2 Identify the four digits after "Date Code." Step 3 Interpret the four digits to figure out the year of the Murray mower. The year the mower was manufactured is represented as the first digit, and the day of the year it was produced is represented by the last three digits. For example, if the date code is "4156," the mower was produced in 2004, on the 156th day of the year. The date code could also indicate 1994. If you are unsure if your mower is that old, go to the next step. Step 4 Find the model number located on the data tag. Pre-2001 Murray mowers have five-digit model numbers followed by a dash and a single-digit number. Post-2001 models have a five- or six-digit model number with no dash. If the model number has a dash, the date code, for example, will indicate 1994 rather than 2004.

Sounds like your fan motor might have a problem. Or the relay that controls it. As for repair techs, there are multiple. https://www.mrappliance.com/vancouver/ is one.