Hey sounds like something got knocked out of place, and is rattling around. Watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zLLF5J1e... May help get you on track to a solution. Good luck!
Have you tried a different HDMI cable? I had a base ps4 that would beep and shut off, turned out to be a bad HDMI cable. When you tried to turn it on with the controller wired did you just press the ps button or did you hold it? Try holding instead of just tapping. You mentioned update via pen drive and full reinstall. You are aware that there are two different files? The small one is for regular updating, and a different much larger one for os reinstall. When it boots into safe mode, select Restore Default Settings. Had another unit failing to boot after a power out, resetting the settings put it into 480p which allowed me to boot into the home screen and set the resolution back. If it safe mode boot loops still, try Rebuild Database. The last “simple” thing I can think of is try swapping in a known good power supply. Definitely odd and interesting. Good luck!
Sounds like dirty contact points to me. If other carts play fine, likely not the device. If that is the only cart doing this try cleaning the contacts. Use a pencil erasure to rub the contacts, length ways not cross ways, until clean and shiny. Then use either 90+% IPA or electronic contact cleaner to finish it off. If the device is the culprit, harder to clean. I use a coffee filter folded into the shape and rough thickness of contact slot, lightly covered in 90+% IPA. Insert and remove repeatedly just like you would a cart, to clean the devices cart slot contacts.
May seem like a stupid question but did you follow Sonys instructions precisely? folder PS4 folder UPDATE then PS4UPDATE.PUP Also did you make sure you got the right PUP? Common mistake. There’s two different ones. One is only for updating an already initialized drive. The other is for installing to a new drive. When installing a new drive you want the larger “reinstallation” PUP, not the smaller plain “update” one. If you have all of the above correct and it still doesn’t work, test the new drive in a pc and see if it is the culprit.
I’ve come across this with other devices that utilize essentially the same sort of module. They are a pain to take apart and re-assemble. However in each case what I found was barely dirty/dusty/oxidized/corroded internals. My new nintendo 3ds power button was randomly turning on and or off. I disassembled it and used canned air to blow around the little button into the button module itself (not the external button). You might need some way to depress the button or shove it a little to the side, so the blast of air can fully enter the module. In another case I had canned air didn’t work but contact cleaner did. But since you plan the nuclear option, full replace. Wouldn’t hurt to try air or contact cleaner first.
You’ll have to open it. You need to determine if the stick is twisting because the stick part you touch is broken or because the peg in the analog module to which the stick attaches is broken. If the thumb stick is broken, replace it, easy and not too expensive. If the post in the module is broken, much harder problem to deal with. That part is replaceable but not exactly easy to do. The better option would be to de-solder the module and solder on a new one. Separate issue. The drift itself could just be debris inside the module. Either dust, or even a bit of broken plastic. Since you have to open it any way to determine why the stick is twisting freely, might as well hit the module with some canned air and see if that fixes the drift. If the drift is happening because the module is broken…de-solder, solder on a new one.
Unless you are very interested in and equipped to attempt the component level repair yourself, just buy a new power supply it’ll be way cheaper than paying for someone to repair the old on. With regards to surge protectors. It would be better to say some protection is better than none. There are many good write ups on the subject. Firstly there is a difference between "surge protection" and "voltage fluctuation". For "voltage fluctuation" one needs a power conditioner. Consumer grade "surge protectors" do not usually include power conditioning (cleaning dirty erratic power). Secondly even the most expensive breaker box level whole home surge protection systems aren't 100% guaranteed to always work. Even less so the cheap consumer grade units. Lastly all electronic components are a lottery. There are sometimes millions of tiny components. If any one of them is sub par, or the solder joint just wasn't quite right, it can cause a failure. Sometimes these failures take time to manifest, sometimes they are...
Have you tried cleaning the contact tabs? I have fixed many carts by doing the following. Use a pencil erasure to carefully rub the contacts, length ways NOT cross ways. Keep at it until they look cleaner. Then use 90+% IPA or contact cleaner to finish. I have never come across a cart for any system ever that was just plain dead. I’m sure it can happen though. I have however encountered many that were dirty in one way or another (just plain filth, and or corrosion), cleaning has fixed every single one so far.
Sounds like it already got thrown. :) Either it’s jammed (gunk, whatever) in which case “unstuck” it. Or the plastic button itself is broken, replace. Or the button module is broken, re-solder or replace. Or the the pcb around the button module is broken, dead. The shoulder buttons on the switch cons are poorly, cheaply designed. Good luck.
It depends on why it’s loose. If it’s loose because of the internal parts of the module, likely a new module is in order. If it’s loose because the plastic thumb stick cap has cracked at the connection replace the plastic part. If it’s loose because the thumbstick cap is just worn out, you could try opening it up, pop off the thumbstick cap, add a thin layer of something (tape or whatever) to the module post, pop the thumbstick back on and see if it’s more stable. Good luck.
Howdy, just wanted to tell people be very very careful when removing the joycon battery clip. Those things are super cheap and flimsy. I broke one, even being gentle. After some different approaches and a digital microscope I still haven’t figured out a safe reliable way to repair one. If I ever do I’ll post it.
Howdy, just wanted to tell people be very very careful when removing the joycon battery clip. Those things are super cheap and flimsy. I broke one, even being gentle. After some different approaches and a digital microscope I still haven’t figured out a safe reliable way to repair one. If I ever do I’ll post it.