Sounds like it already got thrown. :) Either it’s jammed (gunk, whatever) in which case “unstuck” it. Or the plastic button itself is broken, replace. Or the button module is broken, re-solder or replace. Or the the pcb around the button module is broken, dead. The shoulder buttons on the switch cons are poorly, cheaply designed. Good luck.
It depends on why it’s loose. If it’s loose because of the internal parts of the module, likely a new module is in order. If it’s loose because the plastic thumb stick cap has cracked at the connection replace the plastic part. If it’s loose because the thumbstick cap is just worn out, you could try opening it up, pop off the thumbstick cap, add a thin layer of something (tape or whatever) to the module post, pop the thumbstick back on and see if it’s more stable. Good luck.
Just mind diameter, length, and thread spacing, as you stated. Unless Nintendo had those screws made in some extremely proprietary dimensions, it should work. Good luck.
Most likely broken. If you open it you’ll see that the module is very small, and weak. It is just soldered on, no sort of reinforcement at all. Open it up and closely inspect the module, use a digital microscope if you have one. It could be anything from: 1) The plastic shoulder button broke on the inside, disassemble remove the plastic R button, press the module button with your finger and see if it works, if it does work replace the plastic R button. 2) The button module broke off of it’s solder joints, resolder. 3) The button module tabs broke, solder in new module. 4) PCB broke at the button module location, toast, get new pcb or new joycon. Good luck.
My ps4 was super loud. I discovered that the apu only had paste on one half. Repasted, stopped overheating, nice and quiet. But you are saying your machine won’t power off? Sounds like it’s stuck in “rest mode”. Another possibility might be a faulty psu. Good luck.
This just happened to me on a thumb stick repair. During 4 tear down and reassembles to get the thumb stick fixed, I went to test and the joy con wasn’t powering on. My aging eyes thought the battery was properly connected but it turned out the north side wasn’t fully clicked into place. Gave it a push, it clicked, and now all is well. Also if you somehow managed to insert the connector upside down it won’t work, the contacts are at the end. Holding the joy con vertically, hot south ground north. Good luck.
Hey sounds like you aren’t achieving contact, or maybe have uneven contact between the apu and the heat sink. Did you replace the thermal pads too? If so what thickness were the pads? If you did replace them, they need to be 1mm thick. I’ve read people claim they’ve used thinner than that but I don’t know. There was one guy that used 2mm, of course no contact, wouldn’t boot. I haven’t done a pro yet. But when I did my near to launch white base model I discovered the apu only had paste on half the chip. After repaste it was much quieter and has been for years now. But a wobbly clamp sure sounds like something is uneven. Best of luck. Edit: I just finished looking at the tear down. Thermal pads shouldn’t matter because they’re all on the clamp side and have nothing to do with clearance between apu and heatsink. Unlike the launch ps4’s which had ram chips on both sides of the board. However it says there’s a metal+plastic plate between the mobo and the x-clamp. Maybe try inspecting it for damage, or turning...
Howdy, just wanted to tell people be very very careful when removing the joycon battery clip. Those things are super cheap and flimsy. I broke one, even being gentle. After some different approaches and a digital microscope I still haven’t figured out a safe reliable way to repair one. If I ever do I’ll post it.
Howdy, just wanted to tell people be very very careful when removing the joycon battery clip. Those things are super cheap and flimsy. I broke one, even being gentle. After some different approaches and a digital microscope I still haven’t figured out a safe reliable way to repair one. If I ever do I’ll post it.