Dave

Can we simply replace the home button module with the new sensor module or are the LCD and digitizer connectors different?

Hi there, I am hoping someone can help me out with an issue i have encountered about 3 times in the last 10 screen changes. A...

sounds like the screen has become disconnected, If she can still hear it making sounds etc, beeps and whatever, then it's that. if it's completely dead then she'll need to try a hard reset (power and Home button for 15 secs)

The ear jack could be faulty or it could be a problem with the docking port. It sounds as though your iPod is in docking mode. 1) Clean out the docking port area carefully to make sure there is no dust or lint jammed in there. Check for damaged pins, if you see bent pins then there isn't much you can do as the dock port is soldered to the main board and would cost you as much to replace the iPod as it would to fix the docking port. 2)If you are up to it, you can open the iPod and replace the ear jack. It is a small replaceable plug in jack so not a big job once you get inside.

HI Oldturkey, I know this is an old thread but hopefully you are still active. I have an iPod classic which will not charge the battery or sync. I have tried 3 known good batteries etc and have also checked the fuse and also replaced the Power IC. I have checked the battery connector and it seems solid, it is also receiving voltage to the battery connector. Before I go about replacing the notorious docking port, are there any other Mosfets or Diodes I could check that you can think of? There doesn't seem to be any corrosion on the board and it the ipod itself is in pristine condition Thanks

"silver plastic backing that you hold when you play it gets bent" what does this mean? Can you clarify. Are you saying the silver metal housing/shell/case is buckled bent or are you referring to something actually on the LCD screen? Thanks

I would replace the battery first, regardless of what Apple tested, and then if that doesn't resolve the issues I would replace the docking port.

But not interchangeable. All have different connectors

The key to this is issue is removing the battery. When you remove the battery from an iPhone and then replace it. In most cases the phone thinks the date is 1970 Jan 1st. AT this point you will not receive a signal. The first thing to do is either manually set the date or to connect to wifi and let it set automatically. Then restart the phone with the sim card in and Hey Presto! You will get the signal back.

First step is to try another battery. 2nd step is to replace the docking port. One of those should fix your problem

Yeah, Flex damaged. Under the top right corner of battery you'll see a black flex stuck down. When you reinserted the battery you nicked that flex probably and tore it slightly leaving you with partial functionality. If you found replacing the battery tricky you're not going to like replacing that flex so take it in to a repair shop and let them do it properly.

set date and time and restart phone. When you remove the battery and replace it, the internal clock reverts to Jan 1970. set the date manually or connect to wifi and let it auto update. then restart phone or toggle airplane mode a couple fo times to get the signal.

FYI gents, The 5th gen LCD will work on the the 6th gen. Tested 100%

Eddie, Did you ever fix this? I have exactly the same issue, Board gets hot and screen remains black. Although i did Hear Siri and iTunes recognises it.

You need to be really careful when lifting the LCD up. The adhesive is strong in places and I destroyed a couple of LCD's before perfecting it.

25 steps of advertising the bag full of rice, seriously?

Be aware, When replacing the on/off button, it is extremely difficult to get the rubber mould to fit correctly behind the power button. It will in all likelihood take you a good few times before the power button works properly, so make sure you test it first before reassembling!

So, The iphone 4 screens can be used on the the iphone 4S, is that correct?

Can someone give a list of parts that are not interchangable please. so far i see:

Front Camera

Back Camera

Battery

Back Glass (markings)

any more?

PS: I'm not a fan of the attempted humour on this teardown, simple facts and not milked SiRi jokes would be better appreciated I feel.

ah ha, yes, a bit of practice is needed for sure on this, I have done quite a few now and that is by far the most frustrating part.

Biggest fear here is ripping the volume controller flex on the logic board, seen with the 4 pads top left of photo, i have had two rip on me and it's a real nuisance to change out the volume control flex. You can ignore step 10 really as you can still perform the operation without detaching the camera.

Yeah step 18 is BS, You need to pull the retainer up with a pin, not depress it. I destroyed my first nano as i pushed so hard trying to depress it that it deformed and I had to give up. Bad bad tip that needs correcting at step 18.

A couple of notes:

The copper tape on the back of the EMI shield is easily torn off. It doesn't seem to affect the unit but worth noting. When you lift the EMI shield lift it from the button end upwards, not from the side outwards to avoid tearing it.

Also, the camera shield plate which is attached to the top assembly neds to be replaced very carefuly to match the existing position otherwise when you come to reassemble the top you will not get a flush finish.

Finally, It is not neccessary to remove the whole logic board when replacing the LCD, you can remove the Camera screw, the WiFi screw and the right hand top logic board screw. Once they are removed the logic board will bend upwards about 8mm allowing you enough room to remove the old Digitizer connector and replacing the new one. It's rather fiddly but decidedly easier than removing the whole logic board.

Overall this is the hardest of the ipod touches to work on but still consdierably easier than disassembling the Nano range. Have Fun!