You can ‘pry’ the lower case from the back without moving the hinges. I used a thin philips 2.0 flat head, alternatively you can use a sturdy plastic wedge to help you drive the separation.
You have at least 5 diff types of screws! be sure you sort them well.
You might need to a do a BIOS rebuild as you are removing the battery - for HP it is WINDOWS KEY + B (or V) after you fully power off the machine.
The copper has factory residue spread all over from the thermal paste application they use. clean the copper lines really well with the isoprop 91%.
I use QTips to assist with cleaning the area free of thermal paste
You should prime the area where the copper will receive the bead by dabbing a small amount of the material on it (less than half a grain of rice) and spread it in circular motions into the copper so it goes into all the microscopic groves and makes better contact
I used Kryonaut Thermal Grizzly and effective benchmark temp has been 82C max (intel benchmark) and 46C idle.
Thanks!
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A few pointers:
You can ‘pry’ the lower case from the back without moving the hinges. I used a thin philips 2.0 flat head, alternatively you can use a sturdy plastic wedge to help you drive the separation.
You have at least 5 diff types of screws! be sure you sort them well.
You might need to a do a BIOS rebuild as you are removing the battery - for HP it is WINDOWS KEY + B (or V) after you fully power off the machine.
The copper has factory residue spread all over from the thermal paste application they use. clean the copper lines really well with the isoprop 91%.
I use QTips to assist with cleaning the area free of thermal paste
You should prime the area where the copper will receive the bead by dabbing a small amount of the material on it (less than half a grain of rice) and spread it in circular motions into the copper so it goes into all the microscopic groves and makes better contact
I used Kryonaut Thermal Grizzly and effective benchmark temp has been 82C max (intel benchmark) and 46C idle.
Thanks!