Yes, when the iron gets too hot the thermal fuse will blow to protect the heating element. They can be replaced with the same value. No soldering here, only use appropiate wireclamps for high temperature purposes. Thermal fuses can fail due to a failing thermostat (the rotary knob you set the temerature with), so you probably have to solve the cause of the problem as well. Measure the thermal fuse with a multimeter, they should measure 0 ohms. Open means defective. Thermal fuses are usually mounted near the heating element. If thermal paste is used, make sure there’s enough left when you mount a new one for optimal thermal protection.

It will function, but you need some adhesive to secure the screen to the chassis. Not only to keep it in place, but the Surface tablets are a bit sensitive to ‘ghost touching’. Securely mounting the screen helps here. You can use thin general purpose double adhesive tape (3M black for example), it comes in various sizes. Clean first!

The glue on older iPads can be dried out and it can be really strong. You need a lot of heat (80 degrees Celsius) to soften the adhesive. It can help to apply a few drops of IPA or rubbing alcohol along the sides, it wil soften the adhesive as well. Do not pry too hard, if it does not lift easily you will damage your screen. Life hack: back in the days when I did not have a heat mat I used my party grill with a flat plate on low heat. Just keep it below 100 degrees to protect the screen and plastic parts. The iOpener also works well, but the iPad’s case dissipates the heat really quick. It can help to heat the entire iPad to help the iOpener a little.

Don’t forget to clean the optical sensor in the carriage that detects it’s position on the ‘clear’ ribbon (it should have stripes on it). Dirt can ‘blind’ it so it does not detect a correct position.

Wrong driver. Look for the right driver on the HP download page and install that one. The jam may be caused by the pickup-roller on top of the paper tray. Check where the paper jams, if it’s still in the tray this is where to look. Clean the roller with alcohol and see if it temporarily helps. The problem may reoccur, that probably means that the pickup roller needs to be replaced. No tools required, it clips right out. Jams in other sections usually indicate slipping transport rollers, the printer checks if the paper arrives in time at it’s paper sensors. Same procedure, most of the rollers are easily accessible.

The remaining sugar is your problem. You dissolved it temporarily by applying damp paper, but once the water evaporates the sugar gets sticky again. You should get rid of the sugar residue, but depending on where it ended up that can be a pain. Best chance is to remove the space key and check where it’s still sticky. Be carefull, there’s a delicate mechanism under the key. Watch a video on this if you’re not sure. Tip: use IPA (isopropyl alcohol) to clean, not water. IPA als dissolves the sugar but it does not corrode anything over time. It also evaporates a lot quicker than water. If you don’t succeed in removing all of the sugar you can apply a little bit of silicone spray, that can help the key mechanism to move easier. Good luck, and remember: a new keyboard is not expensive, so it can’t really hurt much to try the repair yourself!

Hi, I have one of these. Great station for through hole and medium size SMD, but if you need to do a lot of micro soldering you would be better off with the CD-S station. The base station is the same, but the set comes with the T210 handle. This one is smaller and takes the smaller tips designed for soldering smal smd components. Check the JBL website, there’s a new CDE-S station coming with cool new features. Regards, Eelco

Hi Joseph, That might indicate a faulty battery. If you’re comfortable with electronics: Open the speaker and measure the voltage of the battery. Li-ion batteries don’t take deep discharging well, if the voltage on a 3.6 V battery drops below 1,5V it has probably died. Regards, Eelco

Hi Soheil, This is what the indicator means according to Asus: The two-color LED provides a visual indication of the battery's charge status.Refer to the following for details: (1) Solid White : The Notebook PC is plugged to a power source and the battery power is between 95% and 100%. (2) Solid Orange : The Notebook PC is plugged to a power source,charging its battery,and the battery power is less than 95%. (3) Blinking Orange : The Notebook PC is running on battery mode and the battery power is less than 10%. (4) Lights off : The Notebook PC is running on battery mode and the battery power is between 10% to 100%. I would try charging the notebook when it’s turned off and then check again. Do you use the original power supply that came with the notebook? Regards, Eelco

Hi Corbin, Try to press and hold the on/off button for at least 30 seconds, this resets the Surface. These tablets respond a bit different to the power button than a normal PC. We have several Pro 4 tablets here, all with these symptoms every now and then. Surface tablets seem to have major issues with switching between power states, especially in combination with a Surface Dock. It’s more stable with the latest firmware of the Pro 4 and the dock, but still not responsive every now and then. The official Microsoft instructions give you 2 options: (1) Press and hold the power button until the screen turns off (about 10 seconds), then release the power button.Note (2) On some Surface models, the screen may immediately turn off when you press the power button. If this happens, continue to hold for the full 10 seconds and then release. (3) Press and release the power button to turn your Surface back on. You should see the Surface logo. If that doesn't work, use this two-button shutdown process to make sure...