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In fairness, modular connectors beat non-modular connectors (in terms of repairability, at least)
Even though the connectors last really long
The problem is more with modern connectors like USB-C, MicroUSB/miniUSB or even USB-A where the socket contain parts that can easily wear out (compared to, say, VGA, RS232 or Parallel, or even RJ45 where the sockets are much more robust)
Which is fair, since USB is never a industrial standard (compared to the ones mentioned). They never require a locking mechanism, and are built to be more convenient. Broken HDMI and DisplayPort due to cable sag comes to mind.
No. I wrote this back in China. I am now in U.S.
The reason USB-C is more "stronger” is not because it have more pins. It is because the external “metal housing” is made larger, more thick, and more strong than either micro USB A/B or mini USB A/B.
Yes, good micro USB ports are very tough, but a good C is even tougher. At least, on the PCB side.
Realistically, a stress test probably end up with both connectors snapping the cables right away. But that’s okay, because cables are replaceable. Ports are not.
These small things are almost impossible to repair with a generic soldering iron (station, temperature controlled or alike) and is more than a challenge with hot air guns (which may overheat the board) especially if it is half-smt and half thru-hole “hybrid” mounting kind.
But given the 4GB of storage, it’s unlikely one need to frequently plug and unplug the device to flash software. But again, charging will be frequent, and the USB-C, while being stronger than both USB-Micro-B and USB-Mini-B, is still far from being indestructible.
A row of pin headers, especially male ones, are practically indestructible (aside from being bent), and allows freedom of connections.
It would be pretty hard to crack the display since the bezels on these devices are immense, compared to modern cellphones.
Also, the outside screen with round edges are probably plastic (maybe glass) and are separate from the actual display, so the actual display is even less likely to break.
However, the outside screen, if glass, may be stubbornly glued in place. But again, I didn’t buy and took apart one of these yet.
But yes, if your display is cracked then I’m sure you can replace one yourself.
Actually, I think what happened here is that I tried to remove the metal bracket (that probably secured the CCD and focus lens&motor assembly), but I either can’t turn the screw, or that after I removed the screw I can’t remove it — it seem like it’s firmly glued in place.
The dust you seek are probably on the focus lens, too. And wiping that will require the removal of the back side of the lens assembly in any case.
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So I think from there we can say that opening the metal bracket will give you access to CCD, but it will not give you access to the focus lens (where, in my case, have a lot of dust). Also, if you do intend on taking this shortcut, note that there is a ribbon cable that connect to the front part (of the back of the lens assembly).
.. and I also apparently have a large amount of dust in everything. That’s half of the reason I took it apart (and wrote this guide).
Well, to expose the CCD, you will need to remove the back of the lens assembly.
And this WILL require the removal of the lens assembly from the chassis, especially since the lens assembly contain other things (e.g. the view finder and focus light unit), and itself is secured using clips on the sides.
You can toss aside the board, but a connector still hanging is a potential hazard — you don’t want to fray the cables.
But aside from the fact that this is a camera (so everything is delicate and fragile), the process to remove everything is very straightforward.
vibrator? This is something new to laptops.
They are given credit when it’s truly innovative — such as this headband. But other times, they aren’t as impressive.
But wow, toolless removal of headbands (without tangling wires!) is very very impressive.
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Look like it had some inspiration from the knob of a watch.
It’s almost a tradition for overhead headphones to feature clip-on cushions and (optional) stick-on liners.
Usually if one end up in need of removing it they will likely need to replace it in the first place.
Again, not as elegant as some magnetic snap-on, but this make them less complicated.
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