I now have the solution to the problem in my question, if not the actual “why” part. See the same-day response I received from Vizio support. I admit I would never have related this problem to the network! I had recently removed the ethernet line from the TV and switched it to wireless. All I did was disconnect from the network altogether and then reconnect to the wireless. From Vizio support: If your TV is connected to the internet you may, over time, experience the TV locking up and both the remote and side buttons becoming unresponsive. One possible reason for this is the in home network or another device setup for sharing is trying to access the TV's files and it doesn't know how to respond therefore it locks up. This would only apply, if the TV is connected to the internet in your home. If it is, please try the following steps: Troubleshooting Steps: Disconnect from the internet. There are a few ways to do this. - Try connecting to a different network with the wrong password. When it fails, you'll...
Hi Shelembe Try pressing and holding up to 10-15 seconds both the power and home buttons at the same time. If the Apple logo is on or flashing this should turn it off. Do it again to start the phone up. If you get a picture of a lightning cable pointing at an iTunes icon you need to plug your phone into a computer that has iTunes already open. Make sure you have the latest versions of iOS and iTunes. Use a good Apple USB cable. Then follow directions to first try Updating the iOS software if that fails you will be told to Restore your phone which will wipe out your personal settings and data. Of course you have a backup you can then restore from iCloud or your computer, right? You can use the backup to reload all of your personal stuff. Hope this solves your problem!
This was my third battery replacement and the first time I successful removed both strips without breaking either of them. One thing I tried, and it seemed to work well, was to wear a thin vinyl glove on my pulling hand. That provided a really solid grip on the strip and I was able to just keep stretching until it popped free.
I have found that braided fishing line works great, if you have it, to pull beneath the battery and separate it from the adhesive and case. I use about 12 inches of 10 lb test Fireline® with 1/4-inch steel washers tied to each end for grip.
I too found that fishing line, specifically 10 lb test Fireline braid fishing line, is an excellent alternative to floss or wire due to its strength and small diameter. I tied washers on each end using a Palomar note to provide a secure grip.
I just replaced the original hard drive on my mid 2012 MBP with a Crucial SSD from iFixit and am amazed at the new zip this has giving it! I first upgraded the RAM from 8 to 16 GB and that helped the speed but nothing like this new SSD, I found everything in this guide to be accurate for my computer. I did take the course of first cloning my original drive onto the SSD using the recommended SuperDuper! software, following the guide for that, and highly recommend taking that route.
My replacement battery came with a clear protective film that should be removed before installation. Be sure not to overlook the film on the bottom of the battery as it covers only a portion of that side and might be easy to overlook.
Do not over-tighten the bolts holding the battery in place. One of the tabs on the original battery was broken, presumably due to over-tightening.
I too used a hair dryer and slow pressure as did Peter. I found that the adhesive would slowly release if I just held a little constant pressure with my finger and waited.
Thank you all for this guide and for the valuable insights in the comments. I think this guide could be improved to make it more clear and to incorporate some of the options provided by others. The old adhesive strips broke off part way out so I retired to a combination of heat, dental floss, spudger and card to get the battery out. That was really the only significant difficulty. I think the time listed for completing this project is very optimistic unless you have already done this previously. Frankly it took me 40 minutes to study all of the steps and comments!!
Update. after accidentally pulling the red wire out of the left speaker connector I repaired it by reinserting it into the connector and repairing the back of the connector with a very tiny amount of JB Weld adhesive.
This was my third battery replacement and the first time I successful removed both strips without breaking either of them. One thing I tried, and it seemed to work well, was to wear a thin vinyl glove on my pulling hand. That provided a really solid grip on the strip and I was able to just keep stretching until it popped free.
I have found that braided fishing line works great, if you have it, to pull beneath the battery and separate it from the adhesive and case. I use about 12 inches of 10 lb test Fireline® with 1/4-inch steel washers tied to each end for grip.
I too found that fishing line, specifically 10 lb test Fireline braid fishing line, is an excellent alternative to floss or wire due to its strength and small diameter. I tied washers on each end using a Palomar note to provide a secure grip.
I just replaced the original hard drive on my mid 2012 MBP with a Crucial SSD from iFixit and am amazed at the new zip this has giving it! I first upgraded the RAM from 8 to 16 GB and that helped the speed but nothing like this new SSD, I found everything in this guide to be accurate for my computer. I did take the course of first cloning my original drive onto the SSD using the recommended SuperDuper! software, following the guide for that, and highly recommend taking that route.
My replacement battery came with a clear protective film that should be removed before installation. Be sure not to overlook the film on the bottom of the battery as it covers only a portion of that side and might be easy to overlook.
Do not over-tighten the bolts holding the battery in place. One of the tabs on the original battery was broken, presumably due to over-tightening.
Don't get in a hurry with the ribbon. Heat and a gradual constant pressure did the trick.
I too used a hair dryer and slow pressure as did Peter. I found that the adhesive would slowly release if I just held a little constant pressure with my finger and waited.
Thank you all for this guide and for the valuable insights in the comments. I think this guide could be improved to make it more clear and to incorporate some of the options provided by others. The old adhesive strips broke off part way out so I retired to a combination of heat, dental floss, spudger and card to get the battery out. That was really the only significant difficulty. I think the time listed for completing this project is very optimistic unless you have already done this previously. Frankly it took me 40 minutes to study all of the steps and comments!!
Update. after accidentally pulling the red wire out of the left speaker connector I repaired it by reinserting it into the connector and repairing the back of the connector with a very tiny amount of JB Weld adhesive.
On my late 2007 A1181 2.2 G Santa Rosa machine all three screws are 7.5 mm PH00. There is no black plastic spacer as mentioned in the first comment.
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