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Peter Newman
@pedro147
Peter Newman
| 113 | Reputação |
| 6 | Soluções |
| 0 | Guias |
| Membro desde 18/09/2016 | |
Votos
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| 113 | Reputação |
| 6 | Soluções |
| 0 | Guias |
| Membro desde 18/09/2016 | |
| Evento | Contagem | Delta |
|---|---|---|
| Postagem recebeu avaliação positiva | 6 | 72 |
| Resposta aprovada | 1 | 30 |
| Resposta Aceita | 1 | 10 |
Not ifixit guide but this guys videos are great https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mwHGidM...
Then I pushed them tangentially with one arm of some stout tweezers and slowly worked them out. Got them all out with minimal damage to the brass part of the antenna but I am confident it will still function OK. On the third one now and four rounded out so I better get back to it. A totally s**t way to attach them and far too many screws IMO. My biggest tip is using a quality tool like the Wera or Wira brands, pushing down into the screw and carefully and slowly applying rotation force. Have some flush cutters on standby in case you round any screws out and good luck.
Just removing four LCD screen’s now. This is the worst part by far. I have what I thought was a reasonable quality Baku BK-338 P2 Pentalobe screwdriver. I am onto the third display removal and the WiFi antenna removal is where the fun begins. On the first two WiFi antenna, about five (too depressed to count them) screws rounded out in the pentalobe head. I managed to get them all out using flush cutters - gripping them with the cutters as flush as I could to the surface of the antenna and just trying to get them to rotate CCW a little to “break the seal“ so to speak without cutting in so deep as to totally mangle the head and locking them in even tighter :)
That’s a bummer. Unfortunately you need to have it replaced by someone who can micro solder a new one on. These plastic connectors are not the easiest things to replace and it takes quite a bit of practise to become proficient at them. You could also replace that DCIN / audio board which is a relatively easy replacement. See here MacBook Air 11" Early 2015 Logic Board Replacement Good luck
If you manage to misplace any screws, particularly one of the speaker retaining screws, look under the speakers - they are magnetic and great at hiding missing screws :)
I replace a lot of glued in Macbook batteries and you really do not need ISO to get them out. These wide blade plastic spudgers are brilliant and cheap. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32824615... Image here https://imgur.com/a/0Y0Yvyj
Exactly, he means SSD (storage) the RAM (memory) is soldered to this 820-00165 logic board. Also on this model the 2015 MBA there is no logic board retaining screw under the SSD
One thng that I have never seen mentioned is that when you remove the two cenre cells it is quite easy to lift the metal plate that sits between the trackpad and the battery. My plate ame right off and was attached to the battery. Luckily I didn’t bend it very much but it would have been nice to know that this was a distinct possibility. The adhesive between this trackpad cover plate (thin stainless steeland the battery is a !&&* of a lot stronger that the adhesive between the plate and the body of the Macbook. It amazes me that I have never seen this mentioned in any written or video guide so be careful
@karinamurphy414 I would put a double later of heatshrink about 50mm long each over the cable right where it comes out of the brick. First one and then another over the first after you heat shrink it. Also avoid making the cable have any sharp bends right where it comes out of the brick. Better to loop the whole brick and cables in a 200mm circle to avoid undue stress on where the charge cable exits the brick. Avoid winding the lead around those stupid fold our things on the brick. Designed to make the cable break faster IMHO :)
I found this thread about one possible way to repair the battery connector if you rip it off the board. Not an easy repair but some great information on where the connectors pins go to The Brown connector broken. See @Wolfson reply
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