Here is the correct capacitor that I have used on two of these repairs on 2010 A1278 with 820-2850 logic board. It is a relatively easy repair if you take your time and watch one of the excellent videos by Louis Rossmann, Paul Daniels or AdamantIT on YouTube https://au.element14.com/murata/grm32er6...-330-f-2-5v-20-x5r-1210/dp/2671591?fbclid=IwAR3lOydRt6724ux...-F3VIunu0SEDOcQ-0J8VRC0fhFsD4c. Note that unlike the original one that you remove, this replacement is non polarised and so can be fitted in either orientation.
Thanks for the discussion guys. I just repaired a 820-3115 logic board that wasn’t recognising the battery (U7000 issue so it was replaced) and also the BIL unit was faulty so I left it disconnected. Then I noticed that it wasn’t going to sleep when I closed the lid and I have been told by a trustworthy tech (thanks Kike) that this Battery Indicator Light assembly also is a part of the sleep circuit so I will be replacing it tomorrow and will report back on my findings.
2019 battery socket available here https://www.ebay.com.au/i/323651290234?c...-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=323651290234&targetid=8...-836492011337&abcId=578876&merchantid=119...-EiwA-0ggPahjk6FvFC7y3bR6nv3ufWgEgKgJrzFKOQ8yU... and a good video here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYKKxK_P...
@Wolfson. Great detective work my Man :) I ripped one pin of the battery connector from the board and so I appreciate you tracing out where the pins go to as I may be able to superglue that one pin to the board and run a fine magnet wire to where you kindly showed me it goes. I will give it a try over the Christmas holidays and report back with my progress good or bad. We appreciate the time that you took to do this and then thoroughly document it so well complete with many photos. You are a good Ifixit member Thanks again @Wolfson I managed to run a jumper after removing the battery connector and resoldering it to the PCB. Worked like a charm as the two that were ripped off the board were both ground connections Image of repair here and I owe you a beer :) GND jumper wire connecting two pins and then to GND of IC on other side of board GND pin on IC on other side of board I found new battery sockets here and I am pretty sure that it’s the same as this 5th Gen Ipod. (if this link goes dead just search for...
Comprehensive reply Dan well done. If none of that works, start watching Louis Rossmann videos on Youtube and diagnose which power rails you are missing and go from there
One the best tools available for Macbook repair is Paul Daniels FlexBV software as used by Louis Rossmann. It is available here at a very reasonable price https://pldaniels.com/flexbv/ It perfectly ties the PDF schematic in with the boardview file making finding components and power rails a breeze.
This was pointed out by Paul Stanislawski of Rossmann repair in this video https://youtu.be/iXjg1LtlQUU. It’s very easy to damage the touch bar flex connector while removing the left hand LCD hinge bolts in step 29. Best to disconnect the flex from the logic board and exercise extreme caution when removing the LCD. See potential touch bar flex damage here https://imgur.com/a/ugAL94c
The strips will tend to remain edhesive in some cases but if not just use some thin double sided adhesive tape of a similar width. I will not link because I am in Australia but it isn’t hard to find. I used some heat (100°C) and a plastic spudger to aid removal or a hair dryer on lower heat. Slow and steady, it’s not hard. The strips will almost certainly break.
The 5.5 mm screw goes into a hexagon standoff which may come off with the logic board being sanswiched beteen the 5.5 mm screw screw and the standoff like happened to me. Just something to be aware of. It also has a black rubber bumper over the screw which was not mentioned at all. It pulls straight off to give access to the screw.
Just align the plug section of the display flex with the socket on the logic board and gently press it in until it locks in place. Do not force it but just ensure it’s correctly aligned before pushing it into the socket.
Then I pushed them tangentially with one arm of some stout tweezers and slowly worked them out. Got them all out with minimal damage to the brass part of the antenna but I am confident it will still function OK. On the third one now and four rounded out so I better get back to it. A totally s**t way to attach them and far too many screws IMO. My biggest tip is using a quality tool like the Wera or Wira brands, pushing down into the screw and carefully and slowly applying rotation force. Have some flush cutters on standby in case you round any screws out and good luck.
Just removing four LCD screen’s now. This is the worst part by far. I have what I thought was a reasonable quality Baku BK-338 P2 Pentalobe screwdriver. I am onto the third display removal and the WiFi antenna removal is where the fun begins. On the first two WiFi antenna, about five (too depressed to count them) screws rounded out in the pentalobe head. I managed to get them all out using flush cutters - gripping them with the cutters as flush as I could to the surface of the antenna and just trying to get them to rotate CCW a little to “break the seal“ so to speak without cutting in so deep as to totally mangle the head and locking them in even tighter :)
That’s a bummer. Unfortunately you need to have it replaced by someone who can micro solder a new one on. These plastic connectors are not the easiest things to replace and it takes quite a bit of practise to become proficient at them. You could also replace that DCIN / audio board which is a relatively easy replacement. See here MacBook Air 11" Early 2015 Logic Board Replacement Good luck
Good tip. It’s so easy to damage these fragile connectors by forcing the plug in and reattaching the mounting plate screws
This was pointed out by Paul Stanislawski of Rossmann repair in this video https://youtu.be/iXjg1LtlQUU. It’s very easy to damage the touch bar flex connector while removing the left hand LCD hinge bolts in step 29. Best to disconnect the flex from the logic board and exercise extreme caution when removing the LCD. See potential touch bar flex damage here https://imgur.com/a/ugAL94c
No ISO needed here. Luckily 6/6 tapes came out cleanly (praise the Lord)
The strips will tend to remain edhesive in some cases but if not just use some thin double sided adhesive tape of a similar width. I will not link because I am in Australia but it isn’t hard to find. I used some heat (100°C) and a plastic spudger to aid removal or a hair dryer on lower heat. Slow and steady, it’s not hard. The strips will almost certainly break.
The 5.5 mm screw goes into a hexagon standoff which may come off with the logic board being sanswiched beteen the 5.5 mm screw screw and the standoff like happened to me. Just something to be aware of. It also has a black rubber bumper over the screw which was not mentioned at all. It pulls straight off to give access to the screw.
Just align the plug section of the display flex with the socket on the logic board and gently press it in until it locks in place. Do not force it but just ensure it’s correctly aligned before pushing it into the socket.
Not ifixit guide but this guys videos are great https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_mwHGidM...
Then I pushed them tangentially with one arm of some stout tweezers and slowly worked them out. Got them all out with minimal damage to the brass part of the antenna but I am confident it will still function OK. On the third one now and four rounded out so I better get back to it. A totally s**t way to attach them and far too many screws IMO. My biggest tip is using a quality tool like the Wera or Wira brands, pushing down into the screw and carefully and slowly applying rotation force. Have some flush cutters on standby in case you round any screws out and good luck.
Just removing four LCD screen’s now. This is the worst part by far. I have what I thought was a reasonable quality Baku BK-338 P2 Pentalobe screwdriver. I am onto the third display removal and the WiFi antenna removal is where the fun begins. On the first two WiFi antenna, about five (too depressed to count them) screws rounded out in the pentalobe head. I managed to get them all out using flush cutters - gripping them with the cutters as flush as I could to the surface of the antenna and just trying to get them to rotate CCW a little to “break the seal“ so to speak without cutting in so deep as to totally mangle the head and locking them in even tighter :)
That’s a bummer. Unfortunately you need to have it replaced by someone who can micro solder a new one on. These plastic connectors are not the easiest things to replace and it takes quite a bit of practise to become proficient at them. You could also replace that DCIN / audio board which is a relatively easy replacement. See here MacBook Air 11" Early 2015 Logic Board Replacement Good luck
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