Jurgen

Hi esteemed tech gurus, I get a fair bit of work replacing the old lame HDDs for SSDs in this model as well as in the 15”...

So I searched for solutions to get rid of the redirect bug, but the removal tools seem to be suspicious as well. And good...

This is an Early 2013 with 16GB RAM which seems to strain intermittently even when there is no major demand. I replaced...

A friend wants to replace the 8Gb RAM board for a 16GB Ram board, Are they similar enough in layout for me to order a...

This 2012 13”retina 2.5 unit randomly shuts off at very infrequent intervals. So far I removed the dust out of the fins,...

So when it responds to pressing the power button at all, (it not always does) then it will chime, light up, go to Apple...

Somehow my volume icon is greyed out in this 2011 iMac 21", after installing my friends new SSD with an older OSX10.6.8,...

I tried the usual PRAM reset, no response, I connected to external screen, no signal, I tried T mode , no icons on neither...

This one has a constant hissy noise. At first I thought is was a bad fan, but after reving each of them up using Mac fan...

This Mbp for reasons beyond my current understanding suddenly quits a given application and goes to login screen. There I...

Solved it: I tweaked, when it did not respond to SMC nor PRAM reset. Keys for crying out loud! Badda freakin' bing.

Ok, badda-frekkin-bing, as some would say. The random return to login screen was not as random as it appeared. Those returns were caused by dragging finger over the trackpad and causing the curser to go to the top left corner, where it triggered the return to login page. And that was so, because under Mission Control “Hot corners”were enabled for reasons unknown. Upon disabling this function, the problem was solved.

Hey Dan,I came to the same conclusion and will switch out the connector cable here in a minute. Looks like the faulty connector took the lovely OWC 480 SSD drive down with it, it does not even register anymore when I connect it to other macs via USB. That is annoying, because they are expensive SSDs. Anyways I will let you know after the switch. Fortunately I still have a stack of 2011 A1286, since so many bring them to me with the infamous faulty GPU…..Often I replace the logic board in those with 2010 boards, and that restores function. But I still have some empty cases with parts…As usual, humble bow into your general direction, keep on rockin'….

Thank you Ben, I will give that a try before buying a new used screen. Also wondering if anyone would upload a link to ASD155 and ASD156 so I could go over the whole machine

@mayer mayer , I have the pictures of my solar stuff on my profile page now. Did not get to the Sata issue here, I am fixing about 3 machines right now, most of them mired in the proverbial unknown…

If it works with the battery connected, as you say, but not without the battery connected, then leave the battery connected. I have seen the same issue. But since we want the battery connected anyways, just run it as such.

It is most likely the Tantallon capacitor on the logic board. It will need to be replaced by someone who knows how to remove the old one and solder on a more capable one . All the 2009/2010 17”machines have this weak spot, and will eventually pack it in. But the fix is easy, if you know how to solder and read the schematics.

I did send in the GPU and had it repaired in California, by http://stores.ebay.ca/brickfence. Not just a reflow, but had a new chip installed on the GPU, came to about US$ 140. After that I needed to replace the HDD as well. Since this model is very touchy about what HDD it wants, I needed to order a conversion kit for about US$40, so it now allows any old HDD, including even 2.5" SSD. This concludes my fix, she is up and running smartly now, for hopefully another decade.

OK, my GPU came back from "reballing"( $US 70) and now it is completely kaputt. Lesson learned. Reballing without chip replacement is a waste of money on these this GPUs. The 8800GS is a time bomb, no more, no less. Who wants my smoldering remains of a 24" 2008 iMac?

Hi YpeH, I had the same stripy pixelated thing on a fixer upper. Also suspected the logic board or graphic card. But I was wrong: When I booted it holding D to do the hard ware test, my monitor was showing no lines. I aborted the test, and booted from another external HDD, and it came up without the pixelated stripes. So I used that boot up to erase the build in HDD, which by the way had been maxed out, restored that HDD with a fresh OSX, and voila....no more stripes. My conclusion: Always fix the most likely component to fail: the HDD. Update (02/06/2019): @imacpain1 rich, I would say that the fix I found is still working: I did send in the GPU and had it repaired in California, by http://stores.ebay.ca/brickfence. Not just a reflow, but had a new chip installed on the GPU, came to about US$ 140.

I cannot find 1.1 mm P2 screwdriver heads, only 0.8mm and 1.2mm P@s seem to be out there…

When re-inserting the board it is important to make sure that the tiny clips on the USB and DVI ports are on top of the aluminum housing lip. If they are under it, then it is not possible to move the board over toward the DVI port side….

I would never remove those tiny plugs unless I absolutely have to. And we do not have to remove them, just the card itself…

I did not disconnect the tiny gold terminals, they are too fragile. I just slide out the card but leave it connected to the antenna, if replacing the logic board is the aim.

I had the additional GPU card, as mentioned by kevmacmills above, and needed to remove two Torx screws, one short one at the plastic separator, and one 7mm approx at the heatsink in the top right of the enclosure.

I did not even disconnect these cables, because they are easily damaged when reattaching. I just left them in their sockets and folded the whole assembly back and out of my way, when I needed to take out and replace the keyboard.

Nice, thank you Andrew Bookholt

I just replaced the logic board, and all went fine, as far as I can tell. However, my new battery is still in transit, i.e: I do not have it at hand. My question is, how critical is it to have a battery in this model....given all the "do not remove battery or else" warnings. Is it OK to try to boot it just with the regular power supply? I do not want to fry my new logic board, so I need some informed opinion on this...

Yo, I took out the logic board, because the display was not coming on. I had done all the other test to eliminate the chance that it was not the board.

It came out fairly easy, and I sent it away to California to get a new chipset installed to fix it. It came back, I stuck it back in, and voila, she booted up. I am thankful for your guide, it was easy to follow. Next I am replacing the logic board in an A 1286.