kenneth krabat

In my 2011 27” the secondary heat sink to the power supply is running 20˚C hotter than the primary and the proximity...

I have a 17" mid 2009 that won't start. I had changed the hard drive, ram and battery, had the machine up and running for...

I have this problem in my 2011 27” - that the seconday heat sink to the power supply is running 20˚C hotter than the primary and the proximity sensor, and even with specific and detailed control of the air flow with TG Pro is very hard to cool. WHY this specific heatsink’s higher temperature? And where is it? I have not been able to locate its position? Since it’s to do with transporting heat away from the power supply, it probably has nothing to do with cooling paste?

My “solution” is different: If the iMac is cold, the screen is black. No problems on the attached monitor, so I set a movie going in VLC and soon the iMac is warm enough to reduce the flickering. re the above answer: “If the behavior is there it's part of the VGU/VGC, if it's gone it's a component in your internal display chain.” Does that mean that if there is no problem with the external, its #”a component in your internal display chain”? BUT what does that mean?

If you want to fiddle with it - I have not done exactly this, but... - maybe you can use "folder actions": Find your Mail folder in your library, ctrl-click the folder and choose Services at the bottom of the popup, and Folder Actions setup. I remember I found a script at some point, when I needed an FTP program to automatically upload any NEW doument that arrived in a designated folder. This is similar. You could save your mail folder by having a folder action copy any changes to the mail folder to your cloud Mail copy folder (allow time for email download to finish, eg when checking your mail in the morning or at email rush hour, otherwise you may end up with copies of half arrived emails. Or you could set the folder action to only upload, when your email program is idle or closed. NB: Email attachments go into a different folder in the Library). Or you could backup to a mounted hard drive folder, or USB stick. It may not be exactly what you had in mind, funtionality wise, but you will get an...

PLEASE OBSERVE: The image of the left speaker used is NOT for a 2011 model. A 17inch MacBook Pro A1297 - LEFT SPEAKER + MICROPHONE - 2011 has IDENTIFYING NUMBER: Apple Part #:922-9821, 922-9822. And its COMPATIBILITY: 17 inch MacBook Pro Unibody A1297 - Early 2011 MC725LL/A 2.2 i7 - Early 2011 MC725LL/A 2.3 i7 - Late 2011 MD311LL/A 2.4 i7 - Late 2011 MD311LL/A 2.5 i7

not on my 17” late 2011

Looking at the cable socket towards the DVD drive - to the left of the cable socket there is a small rectangular, transparent plastic piece glued to the print board. Its function is to apply pressure to the left of the plug, so that it stays in the socket. Even if you can relatively easy unplug the plug from the socket, this piece of plastic makes it impossible to re-enter the plug into the socket. So, if you can do your thing without un-plugging this cable, you are more safe.

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Also, IF you decide to take the plastic piece off and glue it back on, face your tool away from the resistors and towards the DVD-drive. I did not and sheared off 3 resistors from the motherboard. Result = Dead machine. Costwise I cannot defend having it repaired, so am shipping it off in parts, as everthing else works.

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But the 2 GPUs DOES make it a nifty little machine - even past Apple and general progress killing off El Capitan.

FINE UNTIL STEP 9 - then SKIP STEP 10 AND 13 and 14, 15 AND 16 - NOT NECESSARY!!!!!!!!!!

FINE UNTIL STEP 9 - then SKIP STEP 10 AND 13 and 14, 15 AND 16 - NOT NESSESSARY!!!!!!!!!!

Don’t use a book you like. IT will inherit the warp due to the hot water.