Introdução
Unveiled at Apple’s recent education-focused event, we expect the new iPad is less of a “hot new sequel” and more like a “revised edition paperback with improved illustrations." While this iPad's specs reveal two major updates—an upgraded processor, and Pencil support—has Apple quietly changed anything else? Let’s find out with a teardown!
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O que você precisa
Vídeo de Apresentação
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Alright class, let's give a warm welcome the new student: iPad 6! <applause> Share with us a little bit about yourself:
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Apple A10 fusion processor with embedded M10 motion coprocessor
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9.7-inch multi-touch Retina display with 2048 × 1536 resolution (264 ppi) and non-laminated display assembly
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32 GB or 128 GB of storage
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8-megapixel 1080p rear-facing iSight camera + 1.2-megapixel 720p front-facing FaceTime HD camera
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802.11a/b/g/n/ac dual band MIMO Wi-Fi + Bluetooth 4.2
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Touch ID fingerprint sensor + 3-axis gyro + accelerometer + barometer + ambient light sensor
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Apple Pencil support
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In the education space, Apple has some stiff competition in the form of low-cost, Google-powered laptops. How does this iPad, er, stack up against a Chromebook from HP or Asus?
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Given that schoolkids can be a bit rough on their electronics, here's an iFixit take on it:
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iPad's glued-glass display is more vulnerable to drops. Thankfully, this is the one iPad that retains an air-gapped digitizer panel—not as visually impressive as other recent iPads, but it's much cheaper to replace cracked glass that isn't LOCA-bonded to the display panel underneath.
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Separate accessories like the keyboard and Pencil add to the cost and are easier to lose—but are also easier to replace if damaged. (Note the missing key on our HP's keyboard.)
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New iPad, new model number! This year's is A1893.
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Once again, our friends at Creative Electron flex their mastery over the X-rays to let us peek through the iPad—literally.
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As expected, only minor differences are seen compared to the previous version.
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We've been around this block a few times, so we're just going to let ourselves in: iOpener brings the heat; suction and opening tool bring the prying leverage, and voila!
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Like magic, the digitizer panel lifts separately from the display—a good sign for repair.
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We're big on value, so this teardown has a sweet two-for-one: a peek into the new iPad, and an exclusive look at iFixit things to come!
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After freeing some Phillips screws, we can lift the LCD panel and disconnect it from the logic board.
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Safety first! Before we go any further we slide a battery blocker between the battery and the logic board to keep stray electrons from interfering with our teardown.
Where can I buy iPad 6 fpc
battery connectors? Is it interchangable with an iPad pro 2g?
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With the display out of the way, we can safely disconnect the digitizer.
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The digitizer has the same two cables as before, but they look a little different than last year.
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Could they have changed slightly for Pencil compatibility?
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Look what we found hiding under a shield! The same NXP 8461A1 Touch ID chip that we saw in the last model.
In this step, the photo on the far left shows the two cables that were severed on my iPad by the blue plastic triangle tools. Consequently, my digitizer is FUBAR!
The photo on the far right shows a different iPad than the one I have. Several parts are different or missing altogether. This photo should have a warning.
Hi Bradford,
As stated in the introduction, this is a teardown of the iPad 6, not a repair manual. When actual guides are written for this device, you will find them here.
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Strong adhesive binds the logic board to the case, so we meet it with some liquid fists!
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Pow! The offending adhesive quickly gives way, and the board comes out in one piece.
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... And an unfortunate part of that piece is the Lightning connector, a high-use part that will very likely break before the rest of the logic board. You'll need some pretty serious microsoldering chops to pull off a simple port replacement here.
This is disappointing. I have seen too many iPad Airs with borked charging circuits, with behaviors like battery won’t charge but unit boots or will only boot when powered by a 2.1A block, but won’t sync. Apple has to be aware of this, and it is often attributed to a bad charging controller IC. Considering that many schools are giving iPads to kids to take home, and that parents may be less than judicious about sourcing “good” iPad chargers (Five Below, anyone?) and policing good cable management, this is lamentable on Apple’s part.
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We've been hard pressed to find major updates so far, but maybe Apple snuck something fun onto the logic board:
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Apple A10 Fusion APL1W24 SoC (also found in the iPhone 7) with 2 GB Micron MT53B256M64D2TP-062 L XT:C LPDDR4 SDRAM layered beneath
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Apple 343500203-A0, likely a PMIC, possibly a revision of the iPad 5's 343S001441-A0
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2x Broadcom BCM15900B0 touch screen controller found in the 10.5" and 12.9" iPad Pro
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NXP Semiconductor display port multiplexer (likely)
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Bosch Sensortec pressure sensor
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Invensense accelerometer
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And here is part two of the open-book open-notes chip ID test:
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Toshiba TSB3236LX3536TWNB1 32 GB flash memory
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USI 339S00448 Wi-Fi/Bluetooth module
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NXP 80V18 PN80V NFC controller
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Cirrus Logic CS42L83A low power audio codec
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Cirrus Logic audio amplifier (likely)
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Maxim Integrated MAX98357B class AB audio amplifier x4
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Are there extra credit chips hiding on the backside? Nope. We checked.
you have scematic ipad 6 this ?
Can I upgrade the flash memory from 32 to 64 or higher
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We're pleased to see that Apple continues to use the battery from the iPad 5 here—model number A1484 with a 32.9 Wh capacity.
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We're not as pleased that they also brought over the same repair-impeding adhesive from the iPad 5.
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Apple gave us a hopeful glimpse of easy iPad battery removal once before, but we haven't seen anything like it since.
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The good news is that you can already get a replacement battery—and if you're a large organization servicing a lot of iPads, you only need to stock one part covering several models. (That is, if you can ever get the original batteries out in the first place.)
Once again, the photo on this step does not show the 6th gen iPad.
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Our work here is done. Thanks for checking out this teardown. Now it's time for recess!
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If you want to take this teardown home with you, check out our internals wallpaper, and the X-ray wallpaper!
Very flawed guide - there is no way to use the pick to start the removal of the digitizer. Ridiculous to think that the suction cup and heat will do anything useful. Further, the lack of explanation and correct detail for the Cellular model resulted in the ruination of my device - karked the cellular module because they lack the documentation for it. Karked the digitizer because again, detail wasn't correct. Wasted money, wasted device. i think the guide was pretty bad at explaining where you can actually go and where you can actually not go. It was also terrible at explaining how to reassemble with the adhesive.
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- The LCD is easy to remove once you separate the cover glass/digitizer.
- Air-gapped, separately replaceable cover glass and LCD makes many drop damage repairs far less expensive.
- As in all iPads, a solid barrier of very strong adhesive bars the way to any repairs, and makes rework a sticky proposition.
- More adhesive holds nearly everything else in place. Battery replacement is particularly challenging.
- The LCD has foam sticky tape adhering it to the front panel, increasing risk of damage during disassembly.
Considerações finais
Índice de reparabilidade
(10 é o mais fácil de reparar)
40 comentários
Great tear down glad to see separate digitizer!
Same! I support several school districts, and the cost of Air 2 screens have made them unfixable at the current price point.
Hi, which toolkit is represented in step 5?
Looks like a new 112 bit tool kit with two handles! Don’t see it listed in the store yet ;-}
Dan -
I need that kit now!!!!!!!!!
The battery is the same, but will an Air 1/iPad 5 digitizer work? Will it still support pencil?
try it iFixit!?
I don’t think Air 1/iPad 5 digitizer will work on iPad 6, as the connector’s orientation is different.
Gorilla -
Why is the iFixit Adhesive Remover not for sale?
Normally it would be. Currently it’s available as part of several part + toolkit sets, but the standalone product is being updated. Check again soon ;)
oof thats $@$*!&
The LCD is the same as Air 5?
As ever iFixit hates Apple for designing parts that simply don’t go wrong in the first place.
Follow the money. If iFixit can’t sell parts then they give low scores.
As a consumer, not failing beats fixability every day of the week.
That’s an odd claim, the iPad 6 is patterned off of the 5, which also earned a 2, and we sell loads of parts for it. Similarly, our iPad 5 digitizer glass has over 11,000 views to date, that’s a lot of views for something that never goes wrong. Durability is great, but entropy will win eventually, and fixability is a good indicator for recyclability. Glued down batteries are dangerous and time-consuming to recycle, increasing e-waste.
Has anyone seen if digitisers are available yet? too soon I’m guessing, already had a customer in with one dropped the day after he bought it….
So many POSITIVE descriptors for IFIXIT to do these tear downs. . . . . informative, professional, timely, waste-reducing, cost-saving, headache-minimizing and list could go on. BEST in the industry.
Anyone seen the digitizer yet for the 6th generation yet? ETA maybe?
I'm in need of the digitizer and the LCD Screen for the A1893 iPad 2018. Anyone know if the Air 1 LCD will be compatible or where to find a digitizer?
Thank You!
You might try Ali express. Will take forever but they can likely ship you one.
It is way too bad that Apple has used battery this small.I was intending to buy one until I see the horribly tiny battery.Come on,Apple.You are better than this.
wow very interesting
is this the ipad 2018?
yes it is the model from 2018
What kind of adhesive do you use to glue back the glass?
We would recommend pre-cut adhesive strips like these.
My ipad 6 gen does not look like this at all, on the top there is a black rectangular shaped piece where the front camera sits and there is a hole in the back metal casing to make space for it. That plastic piece is the part thats broken, What is it called and where can i buy one?
Also checked my friends ipad 6 gen as well and it has this as well. The back of these ipad 6’s look nothing like the one in this pictures.
Hi Ryan,
I think the iPad model you have is the Wi-Fi + Cellular model, while our teardown unit is the Wi-Fi only model. The black plastic rectangular piece allows for the cellular radios to penetrate through the aluminum case properly to ensure cell service. You may have to replace the entire back cover to fix the broken plastic part.
Does anybody know if the power button assembly can be replaced like the iPad 5 and some other iPads? I have a customer that has damaged their iPad to where that needs to be replaced. I didn’t want to mess with it too much unless I knew there was a part for it but I haven’t seen a power button assembly replacement unless I am not looking good enough.
@car34 Based on the X-ray, that component looks really similar to the one in the previous generation. I’m sure it’s replaceable. Whether or not it’s the same part or compatible with the iPad 5 version, I couldn’t say—my guess would be the button cover is identical, with maybe 50/50 odds the underlying flex cable is the same.
Who made the lcd? Why don’t you mention??
where to get a new display of an ipad 2017 9.7’’ please advice?
My son’s iPad screen shattered. So instead of buying a new iPad I figured I would turn it into a teaching moment for my son. I was replacing both the screen and a new home button.
Warning:
If you have a shattered screen please beware that it can be difficult to remove and leave a lot of tiny shards of glass. It was a mess.
I purchased the “iOpener” kit - which was all I needed.
Time: 4 hours
Recommended Equipment:
- Can of compressed air
- Adhesive or double sided cello tape.
- Soft anti-static and anti scratch cloths
Pro Tip:
If your screen is really shattered, I recommend leaving it in the sun for a half hour or so to really get it loose.
If you’re replacing both the screen and a new home button, don’t forget the washer ring that holds the home button in place. So if you are doing a screen and home button replacement, grab that washer and even the delicate gasket off the old home button otherwise it won’t stay snug in place. I really wish the home button kit shipped with those items intact.
genial por muestrando, quiero repararlo ahora!
I was so glad that there is separate digitizer as my warranty was finished. The screen was cracked so bad i got !#^&@@ and pull off some of it and noticed that the digitizer was separate and my god the LCD was perfectly intact. At that point I decided to get my replacement digitizer from ifixit. I was very happy that it came with the adhesive already around the edges. I followed the repair guide but still it took me almost 2 hours as I was being extra carful not to damage the LCD. For future references tape the broken screen with clear tape then proceeded to remove it as it will keep the little shards from flying over the place and most of all make sure to use protective eyewear as I said those little shards will fly as I got one in the eye.
Thank you ifixit
