Ferramentas utilizadas neste teardown
Introdução
We picked up the new iMac 20" from our local Apple store on March 3rd.
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It's here!
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We turned it on (only briefly, of course); the LCD display is beautifully clear, even though its resolution (1680x1050) is smaller than the 1920x1200 resolution found in the MacBook Pro 17" Unibody.
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The speakers are also surprisingly loud and clear, given that the sound seemingly comes out of nowhere...
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Feel free to comment on specific steps as we go. We'll do our best to accommodate any special requests for pictures.
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Look at those lovely cords. Yay for cords. Going wireless will add an extra $50 to your iMac's pricetag -- $20 for the mouse and $30 for the keyboard.
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Apple should really have an Aluminum mouse. The included white plastic Mighty Mouse looks like something thrown in as an afterthought.
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Our keyboard has no number pad, but in their online store Apple offers a "keyboard with numeric keypad" as a no-cost alternative to the standard one.
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Apple confirmed that nothing from the PC world was used in the creation of this iMac, as evident by the "Everything Mac" slogan.
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Fourteen magnets hold the front glass panel in place. Our suction cups were very handy for this operation.
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The glass panel comes off with a gentle pull straight up.
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The rear of the glass has a metallic bezel, as well as seven alignment posts. The magnets that help hold the glass in place are in the iMac's aluminum front bezel.
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Most components are buried beneath the LCD assembly. This isn't a new design for Intel iMacs, but is certainly not as convenient as the rear-accessible iMac G5.
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Unscrewing the two T6 screws securing the display data cable.
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After removing the two screws, we pulled the connector straight up, wiggling back and forth as necessary.
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The LCD panel is held in place with eight 11.8mm T8 Torx screws.
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There are five cables (four inverter cables and one temperature sensor) to disconnect before the LCD panel can be removed from the iMac.
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This display is an AU Optronics M302EW02. The manufacture date shown on the back of the LCD is 09/04, that's probably the 4th week of 2009.
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Removing the desktop 320GB SATA hard drive.
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After disconnecting the temperature sensor cables, we rotated the long black clip toward the drive to unlock it, then swung it to the side.
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We then unplugged the SATA cables and pulled out the hard drive without removing any additional screws.
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It was a lot prettier when we started.
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There you have it! Be sure to check back often for more teardowns, guides, and quality parts and tools.
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5 comentários
does anyone know if you can upgrade the processor in this model??
Wonderful teardown! I was able to remove the electronic guts and LCD of a broken aluminum imac thanks to this guide. Now I wonder what to do with an empty Aluminum case with stand. It's too thin for an aquarium. Any ideas?
What are the internal dimensions of the imac once everything is removed (other than the screen, and anything required for the screen to turn on)