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iPhone XR Rear Glass Replacement

Escrito Por: Arty (e 2 outros contribuidores)
  • Comentários: 34
  • Favoritos: 3
  • Execuções: 30

Dificuldade

Difícil

Passos

44

Tempo necessário

2 - 3 horas

Partes

7

Sinalizadores

2

In Progress

Em progresso

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Member-Contributed Guide

Guia contribuído por membro

Um membro impressionante de nossa comunidade fez este guia. Não é gerenciado pela equipe iFixit.

Introdução

The iPhone fell and crashed? I'll show you how to replace a broken rear glass on an iPhone XR.

Vídeo de Apresentação

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured. Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 6.7 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    • There's a black rubber gasket just beneath the head on each pentalobe screw. For maximum protection against dust and liquid, check the condition of the gaskets or replace the screws during reassembly.

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  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone helps soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or heat gun, or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

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  3. The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method. If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone XR.

    • The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method.

    • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone XR.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Press both suction cups firmly into place.

    • If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may help the suction cups adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

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  4. Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone. Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need. Insert an opening pick into the gap under the display on the lower edge of the iPhone.

    • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.

    • Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap under the display on the lower edge of the iPhone.

    • Skip the next two steps and continue to step 8.

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  5. If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass. If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    • If you're using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

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  6. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert an opening pick into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

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  7. Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place. Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components. Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

    • Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

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  8. Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

    • Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

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  9. The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips. Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port. The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.

    • The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.

    • Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.

    • The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.

    • Again, don't insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.

    • Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

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  10. Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    • If you used an iSclack and it's still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

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  11. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board. Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

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  12. Remove three 1.2 mm Y000 screws securing the battery connector cover bracket. Remove the bracket.
    Ferramenta utilizada nesse passo:
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.99

    • Remove three 1.2 mm Y000 screws securing the battery connector cover bracket.

    • Remove the bracket.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

    • During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

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  13. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket. Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket.

    • Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

    • Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

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  14. Remove the two 1.2 mm Y000 screws securing the display connector bracket. Remove the bracket.

    • Remove the two 1.2 mm Y000 screws securing the display connector bracket.

    • Remove the bracket.

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  15. Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the digitizer cable. To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the digitizer cable.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

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  17. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the display cable connector. Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the display cable connector.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to disconnect the display cable connector.

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  18. Remove the five screws securing the logic board connector bracket to the rear case: One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • Remove the five screws securing the logic board connector bracket to the rear case:

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 1.5 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • Three 1.2 mm Y000 screws

    • Remove the bracket.

    • Be careful not to lose the smaller bracket clipped onto the edge. It's secured with a small clip and is easy to accidentally knock off of the larger bracket.

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  19. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the front sensor assembly connector up from its socket. Use the tip of a spudger to pry the front sensor assembly connector up from its socket.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the front sensor assembly connector up from its socket.

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  20. Remove the display assembly.
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  21. Remove the seven screws securing the bracket below the Taptic engine and speaker:

    • Remove the seven screws securing the bracket below the Taptic engine and speaker:

    • Three Phillips 1.4 mm screws

    • Two Phillips 1.7 mm screws

    • One Phillips 1.9 mm screw

    • One Phillips 1.6 mm screw

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  22. Lift the bracket from the edge nearest the battery. Don't try to fully remove it, as it's still connected via a small flex cable. Lift the bracket from the edge nearest the battery. Don't try to fully remove it, as it's still connected via a small flex cable.

    • Lift the bracket from the edge nearest the battery. Don't try to fully remove it, as it's still connected via a small flex cable.

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  23. While holding the bracket out of the way, use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flex cable underneath. While holding the bracket out of the way, use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flex cable underneath.

    • While holding the bracket out of the way, use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flex cable underneath.

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  24. Remove the bracket.

    • Remove the bracket.

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  25. Remove the piece of black tape and the small rubber rectangle covering the Taptic Engine connector cover. Remove the piece of black tape and the small rubber rectangle covering the Taptic Engine connector cover.

    • Remove the piece of black tape and the small rubber rectangle covering the Taptic Engine connector cover.

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  26. Remove the five screws securing the lower speaker:
    Ferramenta utilizada nesse passo:
    Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones
    $5.49

    • Remove the five screws securing the lower speaker:

    • One 2.8 mm standoff screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a dedicated standoff driver or driver bit.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    • One 2.3 mm standoff screw

    • One 2.3 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.8 mm Phillips screw

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

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  27. Remove the small bracket on the top right corner of the speaker. Remove the Taptic Engine connector cover.

    • Remove the small bracket on the top right corner of the speaker.

    • Remove the Taptic Engine connector cover.

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  28. Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker near the edge of the iPhone's case. Gently pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker.

    • Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker near the edge of the iPhone's case.

    • Gently pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker.

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  29. Hold the speaker by its side edges and rock it side-to-side, separating the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone. Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates. Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates.

    • Hold the speaker by its side edges and rock it side-to-side, separating the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates.

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  30. Remove the speaker. The speaker's adhesive gasket is not reusable. Peel away any remaining adhesive residue with tweezers.

    • Remove the speaker.

    • The speaker's adhesive gasket is not reusable. Peel away any remaining adhesive residue with tweezers.

    • To help protect against water and dust intrusion, replace the adhesive gasket during reassembly. Prep the area by cleaning it with a bit of isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter so that the gasket adheres properly. Install a new gasket onto the speaker, and then install the speaker.

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  31. Remove the two 1.8 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine.

    • Remove the two 1.8 mm Phillips screws securing the Taptic Engine.

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  32. Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket. Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.

    • Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.

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  33. Remove the Taptic Engine.

    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

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  34. The iPhone XR's battery is secured to the rear case by four pieces of stretch-release adhesive—two on either end of the battery.

    • The iPhone XR's battery is secured to the rear case by four pieces of stretch-release adhesive—two on either end of the battery.

    • Each piece of adhesive has a black pull-tab at the end, which is lightly adhered to the side edge of the battery.

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  35. Peel back the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom right edge of the battery. Be careful not to jab the battery with any sharp tools. A punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire. Be careful not to jab the battery with any sharp tools. A punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire.

    • Peel back the first battery adhesive tab from the bottom right edge of the battery.

    • Be careful not to jab the battery with any sharp tools. A punctured battery may leak dangerous chemicals or catch fire.

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  36. Try to keep the adhesive strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; twisted or wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly. Additionally, do not press down on the battery as you pull the strips. Pressing on the battery creates pressure points that can snag and break the adhesive. Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, towards the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Try to keep the adhesive strips flat and unwrinkled during this procedure; twisted or wrinkled strips will stick together and break instead of pulling out cleanly.

    • Additionally, do not press down on the battery as you pull the strips. Pressing on the battery creates pressure points that can snag and break the adhesive.

    • Slowly pull one battery adhesive tab away from the battery, towards the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Pull steadily, maintaining constant tension on the strip until it slips out from between the battery and the rear case. For best results, pull the strip at as low an angle as possible, without snagging it on any of the iPhone's other components.

    • The strip will stretch to many times its original length. Continue pulling and re-grab the strip near the battery if necessary.

    • If the battery adhesive tabs break during the removal process, use your fingers or blunt tweezers to retrieve the remaining length of adhesive, and continue pulling.

    • If any of the adhesive strips break underneath the battery and cannot be retrieved, try to remove the remaining strips, and then proceed as instructed below.

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  37. Repeat the above steps to remove the remaining three adhesive strips. Be sure to hold onto the battery as you remove the final strip, or it may fling out of the iPhone unexpectedly.

    • Repeat the above steps to remove the remaining three adhesive strips.

    • Be sure to hold onto the battery as you remove the final strip, or it may fling out of the iPhone unexpectedly.

    • If you removed all of the adhesive strips successfully, skip the next step.

    • If the adhesive breaks off underneath the battery and can't be retrieved, apply a few drops of high concentration (over 90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery in the area of the broken adhesive strip(s).

    • Wait about one minute for the alcohol solution to weaken the adhesive. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery.

    • Don't try to forcefully lever the battery out. If needed, apply a few more drops of alcohol to further weaken the adhesive. Never deform or puncture the battery with your pry tool.

    • Be careful not to damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath the battery.

    • For an alternative method to unstick the battery, continue with the next step below.

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  38. If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery. This will help soften the adhesive. Heat the iPhone until the rear case is slightly too hot to comfortably touch. Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

    • If any of the adhesive strips broke off and the battery remains stuck to the rear case, prepare an iOpener or use a hair dryer to heat the rear case directly behind the battery. This will help soften the adhesive.

    • Heat the iPhone until the rear case is slightly too hot to comfortably touch. Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

    • Flip the iPhone back over and thread a strong piece of string (such as dental floss or a length of thin guitar string) underneath the battery.

    • Wrap the ends of the string around a cloth (or wear gloves) to protect your fingers.

    • Pull the string from side to side in a sawing motion all along the length of the battery to separate the adhesive. This can take some time since the adhesive is slow to deform, but with patience it will come free. Do not deform or damage the battery.

    • If you choose to use pry tools to lift the battery out of the iPhone, use extreme caution or you may damage the ribbon cables or the wireless charging coil directly underneath the battery.

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  39. Remove the battery from the iPhone.

    • Remove the battery from the iPhone.

    • If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.

    • Reinstall the Taptic Engine and speaker before installing a new battery. This helps keep the battery aligned correctly during installation.

    • Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the motherboard socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.

    • Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.

    • If your new battery doesn’t have adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide to replace the adhesive strips.

    • Perform a force restart after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

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  40. Remove the 2 screws securing the camera plate One 1.6 mm Phillips screw One 2.4 mm standoff screw

    • Remove the 2 screws securing the camera plate

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.4 mm standoff screw

    • Remove the camera plate

    • With an opening tool, disconnect the camera connector

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  41. With a spudger, gently pry up on the camera to remove the camera. With a spudger, gently pry up on the camera to remove the camera.

    • With a spudger, gently pry up on the camera to remove the camera.

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  42. Use a sim eject tool or a paperclip to remove the SIM tray.

    • Use a sim eject tool or a paperclip to remove the SIM tray.

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  43. Use an opening tool or a fingernail to remove 9 connectors from the logic board. Avoid using too much pressure, doing so could damage the logic board

    • Use an opening tool or a fingernail to remove 9 connectors from the logic board.

    • Avoid using too much pressure, doing so could damage the logic board

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  44. Remove the following screws: 2.9mm standoff screw 1.5mm Phillips #000

    • Remove the following screws:

    • 2.9mm standoff screw

    • 1.5mm Phillips #000

    • 1.6mm Phillips #000

    • Remove the grounding bracket

    • Remove the SIM reader

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  45. Remove the 5 screws securing the logic board to the case 2.9mm Standoff screw 2.8mm Standoff screw

    • Remove the 5 screws securing the logic board to the case

    • 2.9mm Standoff screw

    • 2.8mm Standoff screw

    • 1.8mm Phillips #000

    • Remove the logic board.

    Editar
Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

30 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Autor(a)

com 2 outros contribuidores

Arty

Membro desde: 27/10/2019

7.720 Reputação

31 Guias de autoria

Emblemas: 17

+14 outros emblemas

3 comentários

A written guide with images is much more accessible than a video guide. Can you please transcribe the video for those who cannot follow or understand the video?

Justin - Responder

Muy buena explicacion, me salio perfecto, hasta la taza de café me tome mientras se secaba jaja. Saludos

Adela Cantero - Responder

I'm 15 years old, never fixed anything electronic in my life, I decided to buy the parts and tools. I fixed it in 3 hours with no help accept this video.

Freddie - Responder

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