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Introdução

The Taptic Engine produces your iPhone's vibration and haptic feedback functions. Follow this guide to remove and/or replace the Taptic Engine in an iPhone X.

This guide instructs you to fully remove the display assembly; this is intended to prevent accidental strain or damage to the display cables while you work. If you feel comfortable removing the Taptic Engine without endangering the display cables, you can skip the steps for disconnecting the display cables.

  1. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement, Pentalobe Screws: step 1, image 1 of 1
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • If the screws are stripped or damaged, replace the screws.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    There are 6.81mm long screws!

    Daniel - Responder

    One of the pentalobe screws is stripped :( - suggestions for how to get it out?

    cgtyoder - Responder

    same situation here

    kaunomarcius - Responder

    Same issue for me too, how do I get the stripped screw out?

    patronics - Responder

    Update: I was able to get the “stripped” screw out using another Pentalobe-2 screwdriver bit from another company. It seems it wasn’t the screw, but the screw driver that was actually stripped. Hence why the other screwdriver kit I got came with 3 of this bit, I suppose.

    patronics - Responder

    I ended up going to a jewelry store, and they drilled down into the screw, with of course an incredibly tiny bit. That allowed me to insert the P2 driver, and I was able to unscrew it at that point. Good luck!

    cgtyoder - Responder

    Same issue with the stripping. The tip of the iFixit P2 head in my $70 kit just ground off on the first screw and that was that. Not much you can do.

    Kyle Harris - Responder

    yes correct the same happened to me, the screws were perfect shaped never been open and as soon as i used the P2 it stripped the screws, seems like the P2 is slightly smaller but Dremel kit with a very small drill bits and precise knife tool is the way to go.

    Dulce Vidal - Responder

    Hi, there this is a great informative post that is really shareable to all newbies who are interested in the Guide for the mobile phone repair industry. Really the mobile phone repair blogging is a great way to make money online. Thank you for sharing the post.

    You may know more about iPhone Repair, https://fixnrepair.org/iphone-repair/

    Muhammad Forhad - Responder

    This step in automatically followed through, without any thought. Why remove these screws? Can anybody explain? The Screen is detachable all the same, with them well screwed in…

    Uri - Responder

    These screws attach to a plate that’s part of the screen half of the phone. If you succeed in detaching the screen without removing those, it would seem reasonable that you will have damaged that plate or its ability to keep the two halves together.

    Dan Long -

    @Dan Long is right

    Uri -

    Clean out the pentalobe screw heads first so the tool goes all the way in. A small sewing needle works well to loosen any build up and then press some putty/chewing gum into the screw head and pull away quickly for a final clean out.

    William Olstad - Responder

    The this kit should include screws because you’re going to strip them. Can’t even get past step one. Did anybody figure this out

    justin - Responder

  2. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement, Opening Procedure: step 2, image 1 of 1
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    General tip regarding heating necessary to remove adhesive:

    consider using a heated tip of a small screwdriver or metal spudger (not the one made of plastic, provided in kit), rather than to heat the device itself.

    Uri - Responder

    You then need to be careful about the temp of the tool which if hot enough can melt plastic components or harm them. Keeping the heat source (heat gun) far enough away from the object that you’ll eventually melt the glue but would be much harder to melt components. I try to keep 4” or 5” gap between the source & object

    Sandman619 -

    Thanks for the info. Could a air convector do the job

    dominique.br - Responder

    When opening a device that has previously been worked on, and on which the adhesive might not have been replaced, be extremely carful when opening the phone. It will open much more easily than expected. If you’re not careful you might rip a cable.

    jonpol - Responder

  3. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 3, image 1 of 2 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 3, image 2 of 2
    • The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method.

    • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone X.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Press both suction cups firmly into place.

    • If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cups to adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

  4. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 4, image 1 of 3 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 4, image 2 of 3 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 4, image 3 of 3
    • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.

    • Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • Skip the next two steps.

  5. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 5, image 1 of 2 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 5, image 2 of 2
    • If using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    If you were using some form of screen protector, it may come off first as soon as you pull on the suction cup. Do not be alarmed. That is normal behavior.

    Alain-Daniel Wa-Baguma - Responder

    3m VSB double stick tape will stick to the screen when the suction cups fail (see my comment on step 1)

    Tawan Khamapirad - Responder

  6. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 6, image 1 of 3 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 6, image 2 of 3 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 6, image 3 of 3
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    In addition to safety goggles, I would recommend you also wear good gloves to avoid getting cut with the glass as you try to pry it open.

    Alain-Daniel Wa-Baguma - Responder

    The top about applying more heat and gently rocking the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive did the trick for me. Thank you!

    Monil Shah - Responder

  7. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 3 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 7, image 2 of 3 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 7, image 3 of 3
    • Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

  8. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 3 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 8, image 2 of 3 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 8, image 3 of 3
    • Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

    If you have flat feeler gauges (for adjusting engine valve tappet clearance, ignition points … old school) the .003” thick gauge goes right in. Work your way up in thickness until you can get the pic or supplied pry tool in. Don’t insert metal feeler gauge in too far, just enough to hold crack open. I didn’t need to use the suction cup. I used a hot/cold gel pack heated in microwave to heat edges to soften glue a bit. Made sure it wasn’t so hot I couldn’t stand it on my skin.

    William Olstad - Responder

  9. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 9, image 1 of 3 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 9, image 2 of 3 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 9, image 3 of 3
    • The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.

    • Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.

    • The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.

    • Again, don't insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.

    • Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

    These are the best instructions I’ve ever read for anything.! Thank you!

    Peter Andrew - Responder

  10. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 10, image 1 of 1
    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    • If you used an iSclack and it's still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

  11. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 11, image 1 of 3 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 11, image 2 of 3 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 11, image 3 of 3
    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • As pictured, make sure the frame comes off with display and doesn't get stuck in the device.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

    My phone came apart in a different way and looks not right the little box at the top of the display as actually bolted to the top of the frame body I think something went really wrong when I opened it.

    Mike Kostersitz - Responder

    It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way — only as far as shown in the photo. Otherwise it will strain the thin cable that connects the sensor module and then no more FaceID for you (or, as it turns out me). This could have been made more explicit in the instructions.

    Richard Tucker - Responder

    It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way  … the small stainless steel tabs that hold the screen around the metal frame, that are on the bend place (right side of the phone)… are tend to bend, you can straighten them back to 90 deg. but the plastic base that they are on? very fragile- watch out not to break the plastic bezel … it may come apart of the glass.

    dabur872 - Responder

    Advice for re-assembly: Before closing up the phone with the seal, check if phone is powering up again and speaker, mic and sensors are still working. If done this check even before installing the board connector bracket in Step 13.

    Alexander Nowak - Responder

    • Remove five Y000 screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:

    • Three 1.1 mm screws

    • One 3.1 mm screw

    • One 3.7 mm screw

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

    One thing I found helpful for replacing the screws was to use only the 000screwdriver tip, without the handle. This way, the tip isn’t magnetized and the screw doesn’t tend to ‘roll’ off the screwdriver tip (the screw has almost no mass, so the head (largest surface) is pulled around to the side of the screwdriver tip when magnetized).

    Rich May 23, 2020

    ungodly - Responder

    My 3.1mm screw had a stripped head, could not remove it. (Factory defect, this iPhone was never opened)

    So I had to give up removing the display assembly, and jumped directly to battery replacement, Step 20.

    That was tricky as I had to keep the display at 90º with a risk of breaking display connectors, but hopefully the replacement went well.

    I would not recommend to do this but to follow the guide, but, in case someone encounters a similar issue, that could help!

    vingu - Responder

    My 1.1mm screw had a stripped head. Used a 3mm steel drill to cut the head off (just 1 mm deep haha) so i could remove the bracket.

    Renout v Oijen - Responder

    Be careful on reassembly. Keep the screen supported and not moving. I had difficulty getting the screws in and ended up ruining the screen connectivity at the back of the screen where the ribbon cables go in near the center. I was trying to hand hold the screen and it ended up moving around too much.

    SETH GREEN - Responder

  12. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 13, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the bracket.

    • The bracket may be lightly adhered in place. Lift gently but firmly to separate it.

    • During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

    I tested it, then proceeded to close up the device without the bracket. Do I need to reopen and install? All connections are good?

    monastra7 - Responder

    The bracket helps those many connectors underneath maintain good contact. Probably in the short term nothing bad will happen, but I’d hang onto the bracket and reinstall it when convenient.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Agree with Jeff

    cgtyoder -

    I tested all imaginable functionality on the new OLED screen. Taptics are fine. Then, I noticed that the battery wasn't charging. Any ideas as to what could have gone wrong?

    Monica - Responder

  13. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 14, image 1 of 2 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 14, image 2 of 2
    • Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

    • Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

    cosa può succedere se non si disconnette la scheda logica'?

    luca.valli - Responder

    note: be careful not to crush or puncture your battery at this step!! I gave mine a minor dent, which I hope wont be a problem.. but something to keep in mind for fxlks in the future!

    Noal Balint - Responder

    Thanks, already did it)

    Stephen Hedrick -

  14. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 15, image 1 of 2 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 15, image 2 of 2
    • Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

  15. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 16, image 1 of 2 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 16, image 2 of 2
    • Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    Snap ‘em in like little Legos.

    Ray Johnson - Responder

    Maybe the manual should flip step 17 and 18 (as the digitizer cable from 18, is in the way of the OLED cable of step 17) ?

    Renout v Oijen - Responder

  16. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 17, image 1 of 2 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 17, image 2 of 2
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.

    • This connector's recessed location makes it tricky to reconnect. Take your time and align it carefully, then gently press it into place with your fingertip—first one side, then the other. You should feel it click into place.

    • If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

    This was probably the hardest part other than trying to get the screen off with the crappy suction cups. I re-installed the bracket only the find out that the touch screen would not respond to touch. Had to remove the five screws, remove the bracket and reseat the recessed screen connector. Reseating the bracket took another 10+ minutes. I carefully used the angled forceps to grab the cable and align the connector being careful not to damage the cable.

    Once you have the connector seated, I would reconnect the battery, power on the phone, and check the touch screen response before re-installing the bracket (step 13).

    Tawan Khamapirad - Responder

    Yeah, this was probably the trickiest part of the reassembly. The power connector cable kept getting in the way so I moved it carefully but fully out of the way. Then it was a matter of fiddling around with it a bit and being careful not to force it on.

    Jeffrey Hoy -

    I was positive that I had messed something up, I had powered up the phone to test three different times and everything seemed find except there was no touch at all. On my fourth attempt, I carefully examined everything for dust and debris (blowing gently), and I did notice that a corner of the connector (more like part of the ribbon) was bent slightly, and I straightened it. I don't know if it was the ribbon or some tiny debris, but after reseating a fourth time, it worked.

    Pol Llovet - Responder

  17. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 18, image 1 of 3 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 18, image 2 of 3 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 18, image 3 of 3
    • The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place.

    • Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.

    Do this sensor affect face id?

    bonglkv - Responder

    It is part of the face id part so yes. This is the ear piece too so if the ribbon tears there is a chance the ear piece will stop working as well.

    Stephen Patterson - Responder

    Be super careful handling this ribbon particularly. I did a battery install and, when I was done, I had a phone with a new battery and no Face ID. That’s a $300 Apple repair, and no 3rd party shop will touch it. I believe the ribbon lays vertically (i.e., perpendicular to the “floor” of the phone, against the side edge of the battery. During the re-install, I must have forced the ribbon into position after seating the connector, causing fatal flexing of the ribbon. (Don’t know this for sure, but I see another comment saying that this cable is part of Face ID.) Anyway, bottom line: BE CAREFUL REMOVING AND REINSTALLING THIS RIBBON!

    Jonathan Pines - Responder

    My flex cable was more than lightly adhered in place. I needed to use a guitar pic or similar to help encourage adhesive to separate. I wouldn’t pull too hard like shown in pictures unless you had just the right grip on the ribbon cable so as to avoid damaging flex cable. See note above (5/31/20)

    William Olstad - Responder

    Bizarre — it turns out my whole front panel sensor assembly came entire off of the front screen and is stuck to the logic board.

    Karl Jarvis - Responder

    I also found the glue quite recluctant to release so I applied a second or two of heat using the wife's hair dryer which softened it and the cable lifted much easier then. Be careful not to apply too much heat though which could then impact other internal components.

    LosBenitos - Responder

    Cho ít cồn 90° vào để mềm keo dễ tháo

    huuhaukimngan - Responder

  18. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 19, image 1 of 1

    I tried this and broke the cable can it still repair

    Alexis Rodriguez - Responder

    At this point I would have found it easier to remove the glue from the edges than later on when I was reassembling it. I bought the kit that had the replacement glue in it.

    Grant - Responder

    Excellent guide! Would love to have a link to moving the sensor assembly from the old display to the new here.

    Nicole - Responder

  19. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement, Lower Speaker: step 20, image 1 of 2 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement, Lower Speaker: step 20, image 2 of 2
    • Be careful not to touch the three rows of grounding pads near the bottom of the iPhone.

    • Remove the seven screws securing the bracket below the Taptic Engine and speaker:

    • Two Y000 1.9 mm screws

    • One Y000 1.2 mm screw

    • One Y000 1.6 mm screw

    • One Phillips 2.4 mm screw

    • One Phillips 1.7 mm screw

    • One Phillips 1.5 mm screw

    For battery replacement:

    It is not necessary to remove Taptic Engine and speaker to replace a battery. Go straight to the step #33

    Additional video: https://youtu.be/2GfBOlJEW10

    Alexander - Responder

    I wish I seen this before I did all that! Thank you for that information. Next time I do something like this. I'm gonna pay more attention to the comments.

    Eric Marino -

    Removing the Taptic Engine and speaker greatly improves your chances of getting the battery adhesive strips out intact. If those break, you’ll have a much tougher time.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Boy, I tried to skip removing these items but was unable to get the glue strips out with them in place, not much to grab and tabs were kind of stuck to a seam in the battery, and hard to tell the difference between the seam and the strip tabs. For me I had to remove these items to get this done.

    marshallburchard -

    I stopped removing things after getting the display side off. There were 3 screws stripped on the speaker cover which wouldn't come out so I punted. Just pried the battery out with a smudger tool and some patience, starting at the top and working towards the bottom. New battery is in and working fine.

    Andy Price - Responder

    The 2.4mm screw identified as “green” needs a Y000 screwdriver

    seb6po - Responder

    Thanks for not removing the following steps. this made me break the connector for the bottom speakers >:(

    Andrew Romano - Responder

    The color codes are missing from my display — only on this step.

    nat2 - Responder

    The screws color and quantities in list don’t match the schematic ! I wish i had a magnetic screw mat before starting, because not only i removed the Taptic Engine and speaker unnecessarily, but i also lost a screw ?

    fb.mailing.lists - Responder

    For first timer, dont think its possible to skip these steps and remove battery. It’s hard to remove the glue

    Wex - Responder

  20. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 21, image 1 of 2 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 21, image 2 of 2
    • Lift the bracket from the edge nearest the battery. Don't try to remove it fully, as it's still connected via a small flex cable.

  21. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 22, image 1 of 2 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 22, image 2 of 2
    • While holding the bracket out of the way, use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the flex cable underneath.

  22. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 23, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the bracket.

  23. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 24, image 1 of 2 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 24, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the 2.1 mm Y000 screw securing the speaker connector cover.

    Effectivement ;-) Merci pour les bons yeux et la remarque !

    Claire Miesch -

  24. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 25, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the speaker connector cover.

  25. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 26, image 1 of 2 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 26, image 2 of 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the speaker connector.

  26. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 27, image 1 of 2 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 27, image 2 of 2
    • When prying up the speaker, take care not to damage the flex cable you just disconnected. If necessary, hold it to one side so the speaker has room to come out.

    • Insert a spudger under the top edge of the speaker near the edge of the iPhone's case.

    • Gently pry up and lift the top edge of the speaker.

    • When reinstalling the speaker, check the position of the flex cable and make sure it doesn't get trapped underneath the speaker.

  27. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 28, image 1 of 3 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 28, image 2 of 3 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 28, image 3 of 3
    • Hold the speaker by its side edges and rock it side-to-side, separating the adhesive securing it to the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Pull the speaker away from the bottom edge of the iPhone until the adhesive gasket separates.

  28. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 29, image 1 of 2 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 29, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the speaker.

    • The speaker's adhesive gasket is not reusable. Peel away any remaining adhesive residue with tweezers.

    • To help protect against water and dust intrusion, replace the adhesive gasket during reassembly. Prep the area by cleaning it with a bit of isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth or coffee filter so that the gasket adheres properly. Install a new gasket onto the speaker, and then install the speaker.

    You don’t need to remove the speaker and ruin its gasket. You can wiggle and slide the taptic engine out without removing the speaker. I’ve done this twice on rear shell replacement jobs.

    timblake2112 - Responder

  29. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement, Taptic Engine: step 30, image 1 of 2 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement, Taptic Engine: step 30, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the 2.3 mm Phillips screw securing the Taptic Engine.

  30. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 31, image 1 of 2 iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 31, image 2 of 2
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the Taptic Engine flex cable by prying it straight up from its socket.

  31. iPhone X Taptic Engine Replacement: step 32, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the Taptic Engine.

Conclusão

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

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