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Introdução

Follow the steps in this guide to remove or transfer the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly in your iPhone X. This assembly includes the earpiece speaker, microphone, ambient light sensor, flood illuminator, and proximity sensor.

This assembly is paired to your individual iPhone from the factory, so you must transfer it from your old display to your new one during any display replacement.

The flood illuminator forms part of the biometric Face ID security feature, and Face ID functions will fail if the original component is damaged or incorrectly installed. Replacing it with a new part will also cause Face ID to fail, so take extra care not to damage any of these components during this procedure. If damaged, only Apple can restore Face ID function.

  1. Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 6.9 mm-long pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • If the screws are stripped or damaged, replace the screws.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    There are 6.81mm long screws!

    Daniel - Responder

    One of the pentalobe screws is stripped :( - suggestions for how to get it out?

    cgtyoder - Responder

    same situation here

    kaunomarcius - Responder

    Same issue for me too, how do I get the stripped screw out?

    patrick27leiser - Responder

    Update: I was able to get the “stripped” screw out using another Pentalobe-2 screwdriver bit from another company. It seems it wasn’t the screw, but the screw driver that was actually stripped. Hence why the other screwdriver kit I got came with 3 of this bit, I suppose.

    patrick27leiser - Responder

    I ended up going to a jewelry store, and they drilled down into the screw, with of course an incredibly tiny bit. That allowed me to insert the P2 driver, and I was able to unscrew it at that point. Good luck!

    cgtyoder - Responder

  2. Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    General tip regarding heating necessary to remove adhesive:

    consider using a heated tip of a small screwdriver or metal spudger (not the one made of plastic, provided in kit), rather than to heat the device itself.

    Uri - Responder

    You then need to be careful about the temp of the tool which if hot enough can melt plastic components or harm them. Keeping the heat source (heat gun) far enough away from the object that you’ll eventually melt the glue but would be much harder to melt components. I try to keep 4” or 5” gap between the source & object

    Sandman619 -

  3. The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method. If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone X.
    • The next two steps demonstrate the iSclack, a handy tool that we recommend for anyone doing frequent repairs. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip down two steps for an alternate method.

    • If the plastic depth gauge is attached at the center of the iSclack, remove it now—it's not needed for larger phones like the iPhone X.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Press both suction cups firmly into place.

    • If your display or back glass is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cups to adhere. The iSclack also includes two pieces of tape for this purpose.

  4. Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone. Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need. Insert an opening pick into the gap.
    • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to slightly separate the screen from the rear case of the phone.

    • Don't try to completely separate the screen; a small opening along the bottom edge is all you need.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • Skip the next two steps.

  5. If using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass. If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.
    • If using a single suction handle, apply it to the bottom edge of the phone, while avoiding the curved portion of the glass.

    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    If you were using some form of screen protector, it may come off first as soon as you pull on the suction cup. Do not be alarmed. That is normal behavior.

    Alain-Daniel Wa-Baguma - Responder

  6. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert an opening pick into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    In addition to safety goggles, I would recommend you also wear good gloves to avoid getting cut with the glass as you try to pry it open.

    Alain-Daniel Wa-Baguma - Responder

  7. Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place. Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components. Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.
    • Slide the opening pick around the lower left corner and up the left edge of the iPhone, slicing through the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Don't insert the opening pick too far into the iPhone, or you may cause damage to internal components.

  8. Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel. Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.
    • Re-insert your pick at the bottom edge of the iPhone, and slide it up the right side to continue separating the adhesive.

    • Don't insert the pick very far, or you may damage the display cables along this side of the iPhone. Insert it only a few millimeters, or about the width of the display bezel.

  9. The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips. Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port. The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.
    • The top edge of the display is secured with both glue and clips.

    • Slide the opening pick around the top corner of the display, while gently pulling or wiggling the display down in the direction of the Lightning port.

    • The clips will break if you use too much force. Work carefully and be patient.

    • Again, don't insert the pick more than a few millimeters—about the width of the display bezel—or you may damage the front panel sensor array.

    • Slide the pick to the opposite corner and cut any remaining adhesive securing the display.

    These are the best instructions I’ve ever read for anything.! Thank you!

    Peter Andrew - Responder

  10. Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

    • If you used an iSclack and it's still affixed to the iPhone, remove it now.

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  12. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board. As pictured, make sure the frame comes off with display and doesn't get stuck in the device.
    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • As pictured, make sure the frame comes off with display and doesn't get stuck in the device.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • During reassembly, lay the display in position, align the clips along the top edge, and carefully press the top edge into place before snapping the rest of the display down. If it doesn't click easily into place, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the display and make sure they aren't bent.

    My phone came apart in a different way and looks not right the little box at the top of the display as actually bolted to the top of the frame body I think something went really wrong when I opened it.

    Mike Kostersitz - Responder

    • Remove five Y000 screws securing the logic board connector bracket, of the following lengths:

    • Three 1.1 mm screws

    • One 3.1 mm screw

    • One 3.7 mm screw

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

    One thing I found helpful for replacing the screws was to use only the 000screwdriver tip, without the handle. This way, the tip isn’t magnetized and the screw doesn’t tend to ‘roll’ off the screwdriver tip (the screw has almost no mass, so the head (largest surface) is pulled around to the side of the screwdriver tip when magnetized).

    Rich May 23, 2020

    ungodly - Responder

  13. Remove the bracket.
    • Remove the bracket.

    • The bracket may be lightly adhered in place. Lift gently but firmly to separate it.

    • During reassembly, this is a good point to power on your iPhone and test all functions before you seal the display in place. Be sure to power your iPhone back down completely before you continue working.

    I tested it, then proceeded to close up the device without the bracket. Do I need to reopen and install? All connections are good?

    monastra7 - Responder

    The bracket helps those many connectors underneath maintain good contact. Probably in the short term nothing bad will happen, but I’d hang onto the bracket and reinstall it when convenient.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  14. Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board. Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.
    • Use the point of a spudger or a clean fingernail to pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Try not to damage the black silicone seal surrounding this and other board connections. These seals provide extra protection against water and dust intrusion.

    • Bend the connector slightly away from the logic board to prevent it from accidentally making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone during your repair.

  15. Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector. Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.
    • Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector.

  16. Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector. To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Use the point of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the OLED panel cable connector.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

  17. Use the point of a spudger to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket. This connector's recessed location makes it tricky to reconnect. Take your time and align it carefully, then gently press it into place with your fingertip—first one side, then the other. You should feel it click into place.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the digitizer cable connector up from its socket.

    • This connector's recessed location makes it tricky to reconnect. Take your time and align it carefully, then gently press it into place with your fingertip—first one side, then the other. You should feel it click into place.

    • If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair, disconnect the battery and then re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

  18. The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place. Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates. Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.
    • The front panel sensor assembly flex cable is lightly adhered in place.

    • Carefully lift the cable until the adhesive separates.

    Do this sensor affect face id?

    bonglkv - Responder

    It is part of the face id part so yes. This is the ear piece too so if the ribbon tears there is a chance the ear piece will stop working as well.

    Stephen Patterson - Responder

    Be super careful handling this ribbon particularly. I did a battery install and, when I was done, I had a phone with a new battery and no Face ID. That’s a $300 Apple repair, and no 3rd party shop will touch it. I believe the ribbon lays vertically (i.e., perpendicular to the “floor” of the phone, against the side edge of the battery. During the re-install, I must have forced the ribbon into position after seating the connector, causing fatal flexing of the ribbon. (Don’t know this for sure, but I see another comment saying that this cable is part of Face ID.) Anyway, bottom line: BE CAREFUL REMOVING AND REINSTALLING THIS RIBBON!

    Jonathan Pines - Responder

  19. Remove the display assembly.
  20. Remove the 1.2 mm Y000 screw on the back of the display assembly, near the infrared camera port.
    • Remove the 1.2 mm Y000 screw on the back of the display assembly, near the infrared camera port.

    Not sure as of what to do now, I have stripped this screw.

    Kelvin - Responder

    It might be your driver tip that is no good. Try a new driver tip Y000

    carol - Responder

    when I opened my iPhone the screw was already stripped, I had the phone once at an Apple store for repair about 2 years ago. Had not opened it in between so it seems they stripped the screw there or it came like that from the factory. Any ideas? I don’t want to try and force it out.

    Mike Kostersitz - Responder

  21. Beneath the screw you just removed lies a small metal grounding clip. If it didn't already come out along with the screw, remove it now. During reassembly, orient the clip as shown. Hold the clip in position while you install and tighten the screw. During reassembly, orient the clip as shown. Hold the clip in position while you install and tighten the screw.
    • Beneath the screw you just removed lies a small metal grounding clip. If it didn't already come out along with the screw, remove it now.

    • During reassembly, orient the clip as shown. Hold the clip in position while you install and tighten the screw.

    sin ese clip la señal wifi se recibe a duras penas

    Harizola Taberna Margari - Responder

    Is there a way to just buy the gold grounding clip because my phone cannot search for wifi anymore!

    Anonymous - Responder

    Is there any way we buy the ground metal clip separately please if there’s a way to get it emailed me

    Sisthanu Iman - Responder

  22. Remove two more Y000 screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly:
    • Remove two more Y000 screws securing the speaker/sensor assembly:

    • One 1.6 mm screw

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    What do you do if the 1.6mm tripoint screw won’t come out…? I think it may be stripped :(

    Salvatore Boenzi - Responder

    You could try using an old screwdriver & carefully adding a dab of superglue to the screw to attach it to the screwdriver, Then the screw may come out, Superglue’s strength is holding 2 pieces together when the stress point is pulling the 2 pieces away from each other. Superglue becomes surprisingly easy to break when twisting the 2 pieces. So be careful since the rotation of the screw will put the stress point at the weakest of the glue’s strength.

    Sandman619 - Responder

  23. The earpiece speaker is lightly adhered in place. Using a spudger, gently pry under the top edge of the speaker assembly, and flip it over—down and away from the top edge of the display.
    • The earpiece speaker is lightly adhered in place.

    • Using a spudger, gently pry under the top edge of the speaker assembly, and flip it over—down and away from the top edge of the display.

    • The speaker remains attached via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

    i damage the cable, where can i buy a replacemnt

    Haoyu Li - Responder

  24. Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.
    • Use a hairdryer or heat gun or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the top front of the display for about a minute, in order to soften the adhesive securing the sensors.

  25. Carefully slide the flat edge of your spudger underneath the flex cable below the microphone. Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable. If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel.
    • Carefully slide the flat edge of your spudger underneath the flex cable below the microphone.

    • Twist gently to separate the microphone, while being careful not to strain or damage the flex cable.

    • If needed, use the point of the spudger to finish separating the microphone from its notch in the front panel.

  26. Working left to right, slide an opening pick beneath the flex cable and underneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module. Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from its notch in the front panel. It's helpful to lift and hold the speaker out of the way for access. Just be careful not to pull on the thin flex cable while you work.
    • Working left to right, slide an opening pick beneath the flex cable and underneath the proximity sensor + flood illuminator module.

    • Gently wiggle and lift to separate the module from its notch in the front panel.

    • It's helpful to lift and hold the speaker out of the way for access. Just be careful not to pull on the thin flex cable while you work.

    i can i purchase this part

    M. Brown - Responder

  27. Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display. The sensor remains attached to the rest of the sensor assembly via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.
    • Use tweezers to wiggle the ambient light sensor and lift it from its notch in the display.

    • The sensor remains attached to the rest of the sensor assembly via a very thin flex cable. Be careful not to strain or damage the cable.

  28. If you successfully removed the entire ambient light sensor, as shown in the first photo, continue to the next step below. If the white diffuser strip detached and remains embedded in the display, as shown in the second photo, you will need to carefully lever it out along the top edge using a thin blade or pry tool. Re-applying heat first may make this task a bit easier. During reassembly, install the diffuser into the display first, making sure it faces the right direction (the front-facing side is shown in the first image, and the rear-facing side is shown in the third).
    • If you successfully removed the entire ambient light sensor, as shown in the first photo, continue to the next step below.

    • If the white diffuser strip detached and remains embedded in the display, as shown in the second photo, you will need to carefully lever it out along the top edge using a thin blade or pry tool. Re-applying heat first may make this task a bit easier.

    • During reassembly, install the diffuser into the display first, making sure it faces the right direction (the front-facing side is shown in the first image, and the rear-facing side is shown in the third).

    • Then, set the ambient light sensor on top of the diffuser. You will need to hold the sensor in position while installing the screws securing the earpiece/sensor assembly. Once the screws are tightened, the sensor will stay in place and work normally.

    quá rõ ràng, cảm ơn ifixit

    Dang Tuan - Responder

  29. Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly. During reassembly, check the position of the black plastic module containing these components: Proximity sensor
    • Remove the earpiece speaker and front sensor assembly.

    • During reassembly, check the position of the black plastic module containing these components:

    • Proximity sensor

    • Flood illuminator

    • The module must be positioned so that these components are not obstructed by any adhesive.

    there was no bracket on my new screen I purchased from here.. am I supposed to heat up and remove the old one, or was their supposed to be one on the new screen ??

    0perationguttertech - Responder

    @br0k3nilluzion If your new display didn’t come with a front camera frame, you can (and should) remove the old one from your broken display and transfer it over. Use heat and careful wiggling/prying to remove it—and if it’s stubborn, add a few drops of isopropyl alcohol. Hope this helps!

    Jeff Suovanen - Responder

    Does face-id stop working if the black plastic separates from the flex(The orange and red dot)?

    tharshan91 - Responder

    If the black plastic piece with the flood illuminator and the proximity sensor is separated from the flex cable, then Face ID will definitely not work. Be very careful not to damage any of the parts in the front sensor assembly.

    Adam O'Camb -

    There is some sort of a tape in front of the flood illuminator which is not present on the replacement screen! Is that gonna cause a problem too?

    BTW, it’s so difficult to position the front camera frame without glue. I guess it takes a few attempts of trial and error!

    shoeib - Responder

    It might not cause any major problems, but there’s a chance that it could effect FaceID functionality. If possible, transfer the tape from the old screen to the new one.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I find it better, regardless of if your new screen comes with the transparent front camera frame, to remove the front sensor assembly from the old screen with the frame, and lifting up the whole assembly using the frame. That way you do not need to apply heat directly to the fragile assembly, but apply it to the other side, the front of the screen at the top, instead, to soften the frame adhesive. The frame is then usually easy to pry loose using a narrow spudger, and comes off cleanly. After that it is much easier to remove the sensors and microphone from the frame, no heat needed usually. And if your new screen doesn’t come with the frame, just plonk the whole frame/sensor assembly down in the right place, and boom, Bob’s your uncle.

    Lars - Responder

    Hello I have an iPhone X i Bought it in 2019 with Face ID not working ( not available try later ) I think the screen was changed with another original , tru tone Off , Als off no auto brightness (and the PROXIMITY SENSOR too ! ) no black screen in calls, i would like to ask u if the earpiece speaker flex was changed with another one (all components ) not the original , did proximity sensor still work ?? Because I don’t know is the original flex of my iphone or not ? I found some scratches in the flex it appears to have small cut so I don’t know the PROXIMITY SENSOR not working because there are a small cut in the flex or because the flex is not the same ?? And if the flex is not the original it can disable (proximity sensor)too not only flood and als ?? Thank you

    Ach - Responder

    Yes it should still work. If you change the assembly to one that isn’t original to that iPhone X everything except the FaceID should still work - I have done so several times for clients. So the reason for yours not working is probably the same small scratches and cuts you have seen. The cable is a bit fragile and some of the copper leads running through it are extremely thin.

    Lars -

    To keep True Tone function on the replacement screen you’ll need a chip data programmer EEPROM to copay data from the old screen onto the new one. There a device called JC-V1 which should do the trick.

    Yousef Ghalib - Responder

    Screen glitching slightly after changing the screen. Any suggestion to what it can be?

    Tim Morell - Responder

    Tim. I had a glitchy screen as well. It would force touch out of nowhere, and “ghost touch” every now and then. Eventually, the top half of the screen stopped responding. Reach out to customer service ASAP. You may have a defective screen.

    Alex Hurtado -

Conclusão

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

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Is it possible to fix the ““Face ID Is Not Available” problem? There seems to be a problem with the TrueDepth camera. Thanks!

Alejandro D - Responder

@alejandrod I’m afraid Face ID won’t work if this part is replaced. As stated in the introduction, this component is paired to the logic board from the factory (similar to the home button on earlier iPhones). Currently, if you need to replace this part, you’ll have to sacrifice Face ID, or else pay Apple directly to perform the repair. (They have a software calibration tool that pairs the new part to your phone to re-enable Face ID, but they don’t share it with anyone outside of Apple.)

Jeff Suovanen -

The flex cable was too bent, and now is broken. I’m going to buy another flex cable, but… Are there any ways to recover the Face ID functionality? Desoldering some components from the old one and weld them in the new flex cable?

Andrea Giacon - Responder

Flex cables can be repaired by a skilled microsolderer. It’s not a DIY however. If it’s a phone you care about, you’ll want to find yourself a good repair shop with the right equipment and skills. Apple can also repair it, but they will most likely just charge you $279 to replace the entire screen.

Jeff Suovanen -

My proximity sensor is defective and puts my phone in a boot loop when connected. To replace that, would I need to use a skilled microsolderer to replace that?

oosaghae - Responder

My earpiece is broken would replacing mean that I’m sacrificing Face ID?

Mujtaba Suhrawardy - Responder

Just did mine, and yes, my face ID doesn’t work anymore.

Dane Frederick -

Hey does anyone know what’s wrong with my Iphone X. I thought I had a blown ear speaker. So I just replaced the assembly, but after reassembling it doesn’t sound any different. Anyone speaking is extremely quiet. And yes my Bluetooth is off, no I don’t have any headphones in it. and the volume is all the way up. Any other ideas what is happening? It has been a major inconvenience to have to put everyone on speaker phone just to talk to them.

Dane Frederick - Responder

Have you checked the speaker grille/mesh to make sure it’s clean? They can get clogged with pocket lint over time, blocking sound from the speaker.

Jeff Suovanen -

شكرا علي كلشيء

Corva Loco - Responder

Hi All,

I replaced the screen on the iPhone X and now the camera and face ID don’t work. The camera app is black when I open it. I can’t test the proximity sensor because there is no cell service on the phone. I assumed I damaged the flex cable so I put a new one in and same result.

I put the original flex back on the original screen and same result. I am not sure if face ID or the camera was working before the repair. I normally check what is working and what isn’t, but I forgot to this time.

Thanks!

Mitch - Responder

Hey i was repair my iphone x battery when this broke off. i bought a new earpiece thing and the sensor part but i heard that apple pairs specific parts to the logic board so if i replace it will the mic still work?

Mak - Responder

I lost the screw and grounding clip. Your step 21, “Beneath the screw you just removed lies a small metal grounding clip. “ Any ideal where I can get the screw and grounding clip?

Melvin Hamill - Responder

Your step 21, “Beneath the screw you just removed lies a small metal grounding clip. “ I have lost the screw and grounding clip. Any ideal where I can find the screw and grounding clip/

Thank you

MEL

Melvin Hamill - Responder

I have replaced the battery, the dock connector and this component and I forgot to install the grounding clip while closing the phone. Now everything works expect the charging; the phone recognizes the charger as an accessory but it does not charge at all. It charges only if it is not powered on (without showing any charging symbol, by the way). Do you know if this might be due to this missing grounding clip? Thanks!

Andrea Giammanco - Responder

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