Ir para o conteúdo principal

iPhone SE Screen Replacement

O que você precisa

Vídeo de Apresentação

  1. iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Removing the Pentalobe screws: passo 1, imagem 1 %32
    • Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.9 mm Pentalobe screws from either side of Lightning connector.

    I used a white terrycloth hand towel as my work surface and to position and retain all the screws and part in their relative positions, so I didn't mix things up. I also magnetized the screwdriver tips and that made it very easy to deal with these tiny, tiny screws.

    Magnus Dalen - Responder

    For a secure working, put a small pot with lid on your workplace. When the battery starts burning, throw it in the pot, close it with the lid and get the pot safely out of the building, e.g. on the balcony or throw it out of the window. Do not try to extinct the battery with water, just let it burn out outside. This might take some hours.

    Raymond Willems - Responder

    This is a really helpful one! My battery caught fire but luckily it was only one cell and not the entire battery. So it was done after a few seconds and I could go on with the replacement.

    Matthias Blab -

    Directions should say “use the P2 screwdriver head.”

    William Kolb - Responder

    This step should have included that information. It was very helpful and important. Thank you very much.

    Jeffery -

    ifixit supplied a set of replacement philips screws (marked “Liberate!”). Thanks but I’m sticking with the pentalobe since they fit more securely than philips which have a chance of stripping if not held with the right amount of pressure.

    Don Libes - Responder

    What are you supposed to do if the screws are stripped or won’t come out. No luck with the tweezers either.

    ibrokeit - Responder

    Yep i‘ve had the same problem. One screw out, one that won‘t budge!!!

    Stennett -

    “cheater” reading glasses are a big help. Carolyn

    Carolyn Green - Responder

    In this step, it is the P02 screwdriver from the kit (see that the nib has five sides , exactly for ‘pentalobe’ screws). All the other steps involving screws it was the Philips 000 (there was a third screwdriver Y 000 in the kit which I did not use). Did not have any problems at all removing and readding screws back through the process.

    Andre Silva - Responder

    I'm trying to fix my 5s’s but one has some water damage, and impeccable screen but won't turn on,then I have another one that has no water damage, screens a bit busted but won't turn because of the screen. If I use the good screen from the water damaged phone would it work?

    samuel.m.fudge - Responder

    After removing the phone from a very good plastic case and before I started the repair I cleaned the entire phone with a soft cloth misted with rubbing alcohol. That removes all the grunge which builds up in the seams of the phone and the small spaces inside the case. Having a clean phone to work on makes the job a lot easier and prevents grunge from falling into the phone.

    David Park - Responder

    General comment about the screwdriver tips and reassembly: If you get a screw nicely set in place using tweezers and then use the screwdriver, the magnet will probably pull the screw out before you can tighten it. If this is a problem use just the tip (without the handle) to start the screw, then tighten using the handle.

    Kevin Patfield - Responder

    DO NOT disconnect the screen.

    Benjamin Piscopo - Responder

    Having two SE’s needing batteries, I ordered an extra battery. The extra battery did not come with the Phillips replacement screws. It would be helpful if every battery came with a set of case replacement screws.

    Dorothy Campbell - Responder

    Upon reassembly I found it useful to squeeze the phone right above the screws so everything lines up nice. I noticed that when I didn’t do this the new Phillips screws were trying to go in crooked. So just holding the phone together helps.

    Samara Sullivan - Responder

    hello i am replacing my iphone 5s battery but i am stucked because the adhesive broke whiles pulling it out

    before i started i made sure my battery was 0% but i am afraid that when i mistakenly puncture it with the spudger it might catch fire

    please is the battery capable of catching fire when it has no power (0%)?

    please can someone give me the honest answers before i continue

    thank you

    George Rockson - Responder

    The screws in my iPhoneSE were not P2 (1,2mm) but P1 (0,8mm). I had to order an extra screwdriver which is not available at iFixit.

    Tadeus Nawka - Responder

    Instructions were fine until removing the battery , No adhesive strip at the bottom of the battery . Unable to remove battery as the battery was stuck sold with adhesive but could not get at the adhesive strip to remove battery . seems whoever put the battery together did not put a strip across the bottom . Had the phone from new and this was the first time I tried to replace the battery . Now I need a new phone

    J Caley - Responder

    Instructions fine until removing the battery . No strip at bottom of the battery hence impossible to get at the adhesive strips around the battery . This must have been done in the factory as I have had the phone from new and this was the first time the battery was being replaced . Cheesed off as I now need a new phone

    J Caley - Responder

    30 minutes - to an hour? I gave up after removing the screws and spending an hour trying to lift the display with a suction pad.

    harwood - Responder

    iPhone 5s maderbored

    Rahan Ali - Responder

  2. iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Taping the display glass: passo 2, imagem 1 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Taping the display glass: passo 2, imagem 2 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Taping the display glass: passo 2, imagem 3 %32
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

    This is a Step 4 comment. I ordered the iSclack tool to help with my 5s battery replacement. After 30 minutes of trying to open the iPhone, I gave up and will try this later when I have a lot more time to spend on this. Before you ask, yes I did remove the two screws in Step 2. I must have a very tight fitting phone! Maybe next time I'll try a drop of oil on both suction cups to help with the adhesion. LOL, did not think I'd have trouble opening the case!

    TerryChang - Responder

    An update. After months of living with my dead battery (iSclack would not work for me), I decided to use the provided suction cup, and surprise - it worked! LOL, so much for the iSclack tool! In any case, I followed the instructions and though it was a bit difficult (too small parts, too fat fingers, aging eyes), I was able to replace the battery. The battery removal was a bear, but with patience (and the use of an expired credit card as my lever), it did come out. Replacement of the adhesive strips was a puzzle - I eventually installed it "backwards" (removal hole in the tab on the left vs right) but this should not affect anything. Phone is charging now and preliminary testing of the home button/digitizer seem to be working. Once fully charged I'll do a full test on the phone to ensure I put things together correctly, but THANK YOU iFixIt for these instructions!

    TerryChang -

    I faced the same issue. My 5S wouldn't open with the iSclack. Had to use the suction cup instead. Even then, I wrestled with it for a whole 30 minutes.. Apparently my 5S is one sticky beast.

    Daylen -

    Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!.. It is not necessary to take the screen completely off. I did my 5 that was and assumed the 5S had a different protocol for a reason. It doesn't require removing the creen at all. I was careful on my 5 and had no problem. I took different prcautions and watched only the video and screwed up a perfectly good 5S... This means if your not backed up you just lost all your contacts and messages videos etc.... iFix is cool except their Video is not concise like the long instructions they provide. I was stupid and figured I new what i was doing after doing a couple other batteries and bingo I screwed it...

    yaterbob - Responder

    Before embarking on this task, be sure you don't simply have built-up lint in the lightening port. I found that with a needle and some very CAREFUL workmanship removing lint/debris from the base of the port was what was ailing my machine.

    mark40 - Responder

    Before embarking on this, remember to order some new replacement sticky adhesive strips, as these do not come with the replacement battery. I didn’t realise this until I had removed the battery. I just replaced it without and have crossed my fingers!

    debsmcd6 - Responder

    As to my comment above, I had to order them and fit them to the battery as it was moving around inside!

    debsmcd6 - Responder

    There is no need to over tape the screen; one strip is enough if wider to make a full cover. My screen was super fragmented and it worked beautifully with just one layer of tape.

    Andre Silva - Responder

    I didn’t have packing tape, because my kids apparently found it and used it all up. But I have Scotch tape and a 3M Command hook and that worked.

    Justin Evans - Responder

    I would never use a phone in that condition until I replace the screen.

    guardian10 - Responder

  3. iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Display separation prevention: passo 3, imagem 1 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Display separation prevention: passo 3, imagem 2 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Display separation prevention: passo 3, imagem 3 %32
    • In the following steps you will be pulling the display up out of the phone body. The display is composed of a glass screen and a plastic bezel with metal clips.

    • Regardless of the tool you use, you need to be sure you pull up the entire display.

    • If the glass begins to separate from the plastic, as shown in the first image, slide a plastic opening tool between the plastic frame and the metal phone body to pry the metal clips out of the case.

    • If you are reassembling a phone with a separated display bezel, you may want to place a thin strip of adhesive between the plastic bezel and the glass to keep the phone closed.

    can this separation makes the screen stop working

    bassam_shallak92 - Responder

    In my experience, dust particles have entered the screen, and partially ruins the wiewing experience, but this far the screen still works

    Iver søbakk -

    If the screen spilt and half is still stuck in the phone (clips broke and came out), how do I get the rest of the display panel up? It appears stuck, almost glued down.

    Shara Nelson - Responder

    I was attempting to replace the battery on a phone that had been dropped once to create a dent in the top right corner, which pushed out the screen a tiny bit in that region, but not enough to break or render it non-functional. That all changed when I attempted to open my phone. I have a 5s and I had a friend’s broken SE that I was practicing on. I did not realize that either the construction of the screen is different, or that the dent in my phone would be that much of a problem. When I opened my phone, the top of the screen popped up almost immediately…. without the plastic bevel. It took a bit to get the bottom part open, but the plastic bevel in the top part was still stuck in the frame. I panicked and closed everything, but the screen was popped out from the frame even more and now when I turn on the phone, the screen has a green tint and won’t respond to touch :’(

    Zhian Kamvar - Responder

    For reassembly, it is important to insert the upper end (the end opposite from the home button) in first, then pop the rest of the display assembly down into place. The upper end has protrusions which go beneath a metal lip. If done in the opposite (wrong) order, the upper end will not allow itself to be pushed down in place and will sit unevenly higher than the other end.

    Steve Bayes - Responder

    I was replacing my 5s screen due to a cracked screen. I had used packing tape on it to keep the bits from falling apart while I waited for the replacement part, however, the tape limited my ability to use the suction cup for removal. After several tries I was able to get a firm attachment, however, the result was that the glass was being pulled up without the plastic rim. After several failed attempts of using plastic opening tools to wedge between the frame and the phone body, I ended up using an exacto-knife (a Stanley knife) based on another commenters suggestion. I knew I might end up scraping the metal but nothing else was thin enough to work. This approach totally worked for me so that I could get the frame lifted just enough to slide in plastic cards and wedges until I could switch over to the plastic opening tools. Luckily there are only very minor nicks (hardly even visible) on the metal. Thank you to that commenter, otherwise am not sure I could’ve done it.

    JW McAteer - Responder

    Some articles show removal of the SIM card holder. Is this necessary?

    D Williams

    Dec 26/ 2019

    Don Williams - Responder

    From the Step 13 photos, it would appear that removing the SIM card holder isn’t necessary on the 5s. However, for many mobile phones it IS a necessary step. If you do a lot of mobile phone repair, it’s a good habit to take out the SIM card holder to prevent damage.

    Eric Young -

    What adhesive is recommended for a separated display bezel? Substituição de adesivo de tela para o iPhone mentions that adhesive was only used for 2020 iPhone SE, not the 1st Generation. I haven’t found any other resource on replacing the 1st gen bezel adhesive.

    Jeff Lawshe - Responder

    I didn’t realize there was a plastic bezel, how do I remove it?

    Nas - Responder

    Kleine opmerking: correct Nederlands voor “plasticen frame” is “plastic frame” of ”plastieken kader”. Verder prima geschreven handleiding hoor.

    flitsdoortstad - Responder

    Thanks voor het scherpe oog en de opmerking! We hebben het aangepast! Volgende keer kun je het echter ook zelf doen als een dergelijke fout tegenkomt! :)

    Thomas Keulemans -

  4. iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: passo 4, imagem 1 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: passo 4, imagem 2 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: passo 4, imagem 3 %32
    Ferramenta utilizada nesse passo:
    Anti-Clamp
    $24.95
    Comprar
    • The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.

    • For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.

    • Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.

    • Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.

    • If the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use the included tape pad to create a grippier surface.

    DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If the glue holding the glass to the screen assembly is weak, the force from the suction cup will pull the glass straight off. Instead, use a very thin flat metal tool to slide under the front face (carefully between the plastic edge strip and the metal case) and pry up. This is not only easier, but it is also a far safer method.

    Izaac Post - Responder

    Thank you very much, however already used the suction cup and it came much easier than expected... Then snapped the home cable on my wife's phone... Now I have to replace that...

    Thomas Hallberg -

    This tool is worth its weight in gold to make opening the case without breaking things very easy. Highly recommend using it. I needed to use the little blue plastic pry bar tool on one side of the case to get the glass and frame to release from the back.

    Magnus Dalen - Responder

    I used this tool on 2 successful screen replacements - BUT on the third time, the force did in fact separate the glass from the plastic, so I'd suggest inspecting first, and using with care.

    Andrew - Responder

    This is the third repair using the iSclack it didn't have enough force to lift the face. I used the flat tool to help separate it. Thanks to those who warned against this tool due to pulling the glass face loose. I didn't think of that.

    ldavis - Responder

  5. iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 5, imagem 1 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 5, imagem 2 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 5, imagem 3 %32
    • Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.

    • Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.

    • Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

    • Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.

    • If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, rotate the handle a quarter turn.

    • Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time and wait a few seconds between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

    • Skip the next two steps.

  6. iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Manual Opening Procedure: passo 6, imagem 1 %32
    • If you don't have an Anti-Clamp, use a single suction cup to lift the front panel:

    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

    My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

    cpwittenberg - Responder

    Use a Stanley knife to push in between the back housing and the frame in the bottom left and corner and gently leaver up.

    Much easier Than using suction cup but may slight scratch the frame or housing.

    Craig Matthews -

    I suspect that the age of the phone and accident that caused cracks make this method possible for some people. My mom's phone was only a month or so old and the suction cup only caused the screen to raise slightly. There was certainly no crack I could squeeze a spudger into. I just superglued the suction cup onto the screen in the end, which was very effective.

    Caroline Russell -

    Removed board. I ended up with a small shiny metal plate. Shown clearly in the above last posted photos just under the power button switch. Where does this goes?

    Malcolm - Responder

    I was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure out where this goes?

    paul -

    This has probably been replied to, but see step 31 :) Should be re installed with the pokey out bits pointing down.

    daveoline -

    Can someone please help me. I went through all of the steps and now my phone screen is all white and I can't see anything.

    Lukeapple1414 - Responder

    First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

    iGuys -

    My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

    Nathan - Responder

    @malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

    hari - Responder

    In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

    also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

    Robert Colvin - Responder

    The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

    I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

    johnsonjohnr - Responder

    Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

    daveoline -

    My battery had swollen enough to start pushing the display out. I was concerned that the glass and frame would separate during removal but using the standard suction cup and lots of work with the spludger (two person job) I got the screen out ok. I expected to have to re-attach the glass the the frame before reassembly but it went back together fine. I used a cable tie to avoid yanking the home button cable.

    Kevin Patfield -

    This happened to me too, with iPhone SE 1st Generation. You have to pull so hard that ripping the home cable seems inevitable. iSlack solved the opening problem. I don’t think iFixit should even suggest using a suction cap alone to open the iPhone SE 1st generation.

    John Messenger -

    I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

    I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

    matttaylor - Responder

    If other people have this issue, I would try supergluing a screen protector over the old screen - leave a wide margin around the edges, home key, ear speaker. You could even just cut a piece of the protector into a square, or get a rectangle of shipping tape, the glued down portion needn't cover the whole screen. Then, glue the suction cup on top of the glued down screen protector or tape. I suggest this over the utility knife because it seems like the knife method would at the very least scratch up and nick the frame.

    Caroline Russell -

    i did this now i'm having a hard time putting the metal bracket back on :(

    sineglabs - Responder

    1) Set suction cup off-center & pry up a corner instead of trying to yank open the whole thing. Wrap fingers around the entire phone while pulling so you don't inadvertently pull the display too far off.

    2) Use a spudger, credit card, or guitar pick to pry it up once you have enough room to do so - don't pull any more than necessary.

    3) There's a thin rubber edge around the entire display that might separate & stick to the bottom section. It should stay with the phone.

    4) Reassembly: There are small plastic tabs on the top edge that you need to properly reseat in order to fully close the phone.

    seijihuzz01 - Responder

    We got this to work. Some patience required, but absolutely doable. Our new iFixit suction cup did nothing, but a random one around the house worked fine. Just be patient and work it gently up, this use an opening tool or exacto blade to get into the seem once it comes up. Really quite doable. I'm glad I didn't spend 25 bucks on the fancy tool (a must for repeat use, I'm sure). But don't be deterred by the negatives above. Just go slow.

    Chris Twomey - Responder

    I.did not read all the comments so I hope this isn’t redundant but my screen was too damaged to provide the air tonight seal that any suction device would need. The ifixit #3 flat head prayed the top out very easily. YMMV but I wouldn’t even try any other method before attempting to push the flat head down between the case and the glass. I thought it might bend the case out just a little causing a slight cosmetic damage but I have a rotective case that covers that anyway so who cares. Incidentally the case protected it from a lot of falls but not from gettin run over by my truck. A Prius once, but not the truck

    Bill Pennock - Responder

    Oh and if you think this step is hard wait till you get to the screws on the home key or sliding the bracket back over the Touch ID cable connector. That is where the real problems are

    Bill Pennock - Responder

    Single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - Responder

    I agree but I found that I had to put screen cleaning fluid under the suction cup to get a strong enough seal. Also every time the suction cup slipped I had to turn the phone back off again!

    Micky McGuinness -

    I concur with Bryan’s post. The suction cup that was included with the toolkit that came with my battery wouldn’t hold to the screen when I pulled on it (the rubber was pretty soft, and the surface not smooth - not at all like the suction cup shown in the pictures of this guide). Fortunately I have a suction cup with a hook used typically for hanging things on the wall of a shower that held on quite tight that did the job - in fact, I had to use the point of the spudger to get under the edge of the suction cup to get it to release. I also used the zip tie trick someone else posted for making sure the screen didn’t open too far before disconnecting the home button cable, but it wasn’t necessary - I got the screen lifted with enough control that the cable was never in danger.

    stuart40plus - Responder

    Suction cup supplied by ifixit worked for me. Of course I used all the tricks mentioned previously: Zip ties, work on one corner at a time, and work slowly - don’t expect it to pop out easily/quickly.

    Don Libes - Responder

    Getting cocky after replacing a display screen and battery in a 6S i-Phone, I decided to open up my own -Phone SE and replace the old battery with a new one. I used one of the flip lever suction cup devices and it worked so well, that the display screen popped open so far that the Home Button Cable was torn off from the Home Button Assembly. I followed the instructions for re-assembly, but the damage was done. Lesson learned…read the Repair Guide before starting a repair!

    Peter Bovey - Responder

    Suction cup for itself did not work for me. Then, I used a double face tape on it, and it worked nice (don’t try to remove the suction cup until you have fully unplugged the screen though). The suction cup should be used only to make a little gap for the other tools (spudger and that one which is blue). Sorry for the all caps, but ‘PULL THE SCREEN VERY SLOWLY’ (many people here commented there was a failure in this spet even being cautious).

    Andre Silva - Responder

    I liked the idea of using an iSclack to pull on both sides at the same time but didn’t want to spend the money for one. Instead, I used the suction cup that attaches my GPS to the windshield of my car, attached it to the front and then attached the small suction cup provided with the tool kit to the back of my iPhone. Pulling both in opposite directions worked perfectly to pull the case open with minimal effort and no surprises.

    Gregory White - Responder

    Instead of a ring handle like in the photo, the suction cup in my repair kit had a blue, plastic L-shaped handle with the vertical leg of the L offset from the center of the cup. Like others I used zip ties and placed the cup to the left of the home button and had the vertical leg of the L oriented toward the bottom of the phone. Patience is the key.

    Gary Grinstead - Responder

    This is a lot easier if you take advantage of the fact that the coefficient of expansion is different between the metal case and the innards. On my second battery replacement, I heated a wet washcloth in the microwave, put it in a plastic bag, and laid the phone on it. Voila! Cracked the phone open almost like opening a refrigerator door!

    Dorothy Campbell - Responder

    Thank you! This worked perfectly and should be added to the official repair guide :)

    Emi Soroka -

    This ⬆︎⬆︎ is excellent advice. I did excactly as Dorothy said. The screen disengaged from the case very easily.

    dbrick - Responder

    Dorothy/dbrick this sounds pretty “logical to me” - Did you lay down the phone on the hot washcloth backside down - or did you wrap

    it around the phone? The idea is to expand the metal case while the glass of the screen does not follow the expansion. Not sure …

    Oberschrauber - Responder

    Well Well her we are Ifixit saved some money with the suction cup pure junk great job guys! Who had this great idea? give him a big raise! The one in the picture is a much beter one, nice trick! You must have the Isclack tool !

    John Tourangeau - Responder

    Oh what a pain in the neck this was. The suction cup is a hit or miss thing. But if you press down on it all over (center, edges, and the in between part) then it will stick reasonably firmly about 1 try out of every 5. When I did that, on the "good" tries, I was able to get the screen to move a tiny bit, not enough to put in the spudger. There was enough space for a utility knife blade to stick in, though it was a 2 person, 3 handed operation. I pulled the screen up (a fraction of a millimeter) and got another person to slip the knife into the crack while I was pulling. Then I was able to use the knife to get 1 corner of the screen opened enough to use the spudger the rest of the way. @flannelist gave very helpful encouragement in the Q&A forum. Anyway I still have the rest of the steps to go, so let's hope they are easier.

    paul - Responder

    i am out $600 (and am VERY angry) because what should have been obvious to point out here was not. had i read the comments in this section before proceeding this may not have happened. yes, of COURSE you need to wrap a zip tie around the phone to prevent it from opening too far. prying on the case and pulling hard with the suction cup will undoubtedly result in the cover snapping open and, given the laws of physics (momentum) will cause it to open too far and pull out the connector. i can't be certain that was why my phone did not work after replacing the battery (as it did before starting) but it's a good guess. thanks a lot!

    mark phillips - Responder

    The suction cup worked too well in my case. The display assembly popped right out and a ribbon cable appeared to come completely disconnected from the home button. I proceeded with the rest of the battery replacement and think it all went as it should have, but now my device doesn't indicate that it's receiving a charge when plugged in, and no combination of pushing or holding the home and sleep/wake buttons does anything. My phone was well on its way to brick status, but this one slip-up seemed to secure it.

    JCR - Responder

  7. iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Start lifting the front panel assembly: passo 7, imagem 1 %32
    • The front panel is attached with clips, and there are several ribbon cables connecting it to the rest of the phone. Your goal here is to release the clips and open the phone only enough to disconnect the cables. Go slowly and carefully to avoid damage.

    • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly near the home button.

    • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the home button end of the front panel from the rear case.

    • With a plastic opening tool, gently pry the edges of the rear case down, away from the front panel assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The front panel assembly is a much tighter fit than on most other devices.

    Seriously consider the isclack. I have a lot of experience working with much more valuable equipment than a phone, and I had read all the precautions... but I broke the cable anyways. The isclack is specifically designed to open the phone but only wide enough to get the clips out, while saving your home button cable.

    llcoreyll - Responder

    Agreed. The suction cup method shouldn't be mentioned. I'm also extremely delicate with electronics and gently opening the display with a single suction cup is essentially impossible. The spudger needs to do all the work.

    idmadj -

    Agreed, I really wish I had paid extra to buy the isclack. Didn’t because I thought that I could be careful—that iFixIt provided just the suction and it would take a few days to get the extra tool. Take the time. Its not worth it.

    Thought I was extremely careful—absolutely no movement or pull. Then pop. Pulled home button cord right out of its socket. Buying a new phone later today. The extra few days and additional cash would have totally been worth it.

    Timothy Fry -

    Found it very easy to do with a single suction cup, just wiggle and pry.

    emiserry -

    It may help to position the suction cup off-center and pull up one corner first.

    Rosemary McNaughton - Responder

    Yes, I had problems initially (with the suction cup placed just above the home button) but placing it in the left corner did the trick.

    Brian Riess -

    Avoid spudgers, guitar picks, and other weird inventions, just use your fingernails. That way you can feel what's happening, and you won't accidentally slide them in and break something. They won't break the plastic rim thingy either, in contrast with spudgers. That's what fingernails evolved to do, so just use them.

    Konrad Tlatlik - Responder

    Lol. Evolved fingernails to open phones.

    Chal Miller -

    Wrap a zip-tie loosely around the phone to avoid pulling the cover too far off and breaking the ribbon cable.

    Thor Lancaster - Responder

    Thank you for the zip tie suggestion!

    W Fleming -

    YES - the loose zip-tie is the answer. This gives you the confidence to exert the force you need to pull the cover up. And you do need a bit of force!

    Jeremy Rodwell -

    Zip tie is a brilliant suggestion. Very robust and safe way to pull the phone apart--I had mine wrapped just above the home button and kept the case from opening beyond about 1/8 of an inch.

    bartonh - Responder

    Used the suction cup and only my screen came up. Looks as though the screen delaminated from its black aluminum mounting tray. The home button stayed with the tray as well. Any ideas?

    Kyle Rogers - Responder

    I got the battery and fitting kit from ifixit. the blue plastic levers that were included were not up to the job as the blade just bent when any pressure was applied. carefully using my own screwdrivers completed the task.

    adrt - Responder

    We disagree with the naysayers. Patient use of the suction cup worked for us. The iFixit one didn't do it (it looked a bit deformed out of the box. But a random kids toy worked fine. Nothing fancy. Don't rush. Use an exacto as it starts to come up to slide in to the crevice. After that, works pretty well.

    Chris Twomey - Responder

    The Jimmy tool worked for me. Managed to slide it in and twist slightly to pop the screen off without too much force.

    leeprobert - Responder

    ifixit's sucktion cup and blue opening tool worked very well for me. I used the suction cup just enough to get the opening tool into a gap and gently pry out the clips. I'm glad that the display didn't give way too easily otherwise I might have damaged a cable. I wish I had read the zip tie comment first though.

    Scott Watson - Responder

    ifixit's suction cup and blue opening tool worked well for me. Like the zip tie suggestion as a precaution.

    Erik Osborn - Responder

    during reassembly, screen cracked worse than screen i was replacing!!

    Valerie Egan - Responder

    Yup - I did the same thing… The top corner of the encasement was slightly bent from when I had dropped the phone and where the screen cracked originally. I didn’t notice it right away and when I went to “snap” the screen back down into place during reassembly, it wasn’t quite a perfect fit, and when I tried to press it into place, I cracked the new screen. Note to self - “check for small dents in the encasement and try to fix before trying to tighten down the screen”. The new cracked screen is still better than the one that I was replacing. I feel so dumb. Chalk it up to a rookie mistake I guess. Hopefully this little write up saves someone else from making the same mistake.

    Christopher Flynn -

    I also broke the screen (after replacing the battery). When closing up the screen, insert the top of the screen first, then lay the phone face down on a flat surface and apply pressure from the back of the phone. It worked for me…

    stopsurfing - Responder

    This is a great idea! Works for me too!

    JC Alice -

    This comment definitely should be in the guide!! It is an awesome hint.

    Andre Silva -

    Yes, hooking the top part of the phone in first seems to be pretty important. Also the plastic rim had broken and detached, which made pressing the screen back in even harder. Laying the phone face down to press the screen back in that way probably saved me from breaking it. Major upvote on this comment.

    Leigh Martin -

    Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair. Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - Responder

    Use some tape to limit how far the screen will open. I used wide packing tape, stuck it to the bottom of the display, where the home button is, and to the opposite side, on the back. It left a loop of tape, front to back, around the bottom of the phone, that had about an inch of slack. This allowed the display to pop off completely without any danger to the home button cable. No prying required.

    Michal Pawlowski - Responder

    YES! I was just about to suggest this as I tore the home cable even though I was really careful opening it.

    Arthur Shi -

    The tape suggestion worked great! I used the suction cup, and the tape limited how far the display lifted once the snaps released. I’m sure I would have ripped the cable without this. No need to buy the iSlack to do this (if you have a suction cup)

    spyder13b -

    What worked extremely easy for me was I used a utility knife to score on the joint below the home button. The blade went in easy then lightly pried the screen up then followed up the rest of the way with the ifixit opening tool. I’m sure the ifixit Jimmy tool would work as well, instead of the utility knife.

    Scott Nacke - Responder

    I wish I’d looked at the comments here before I tore the home button cable. I was trying to be careful and not to rip it but it just got away from me. Now I’ve ordered the replacement part…

    Graham Agnew - Responder

    The glass of my screen went off at first and there was also a black plastic frame that I managed to peel off as well.

    At first I didn’t notice that the metal bracket didn’t come off. It was a bit of a struggle to lift the metal bracket.

    Wolfgang Bauer - Responder

    Wish I’d read through these first.

    Used the suction cup but went too far when the display finally popped loose pulling the home button cable off the main board. Hope it was only the cable that was damaged - will try a replacement home button.

    Limiting the display’s travel with tape or a zip tie is an excellent idea !!!

    Leonard - Responder

    I used the suction cup, but used a long screwdriver through the pull-ring help up with books either side piled to just lift the phone of the worksurface when I started to apple downward force on the phone. Meant that I could be more confident applying force as, if it did go suddenly, the phone would only travel the distance down to the surface. Had to add a few books as I hadn’t allowed for them compressing as I applied force.

    Peter Whitworth - Responder

    This works SO well. I used this method, and it didn’t require much force to get one corner revealed to get the pry tool in there. After that it was smooth sailing. I had to reopen the phone a couple times to fix some things, and I was never nervous using this method. Thanks so much for the idea!!!!

    Colton Miller -

    We used the little suction cup the Ifixit supplies in the repair kit, NOT the iSclack. It took many attempts, patience, and two people working together, but ultimately we succeeded. Here are a few tips: soak the suction cup in very hot (just boiled) water for 5-10 minutes to get it really warm and pliable. As one person holds the phone and pulls up on the suction cup, the other should work the blue opening tool at the first sign of the display assembly starting to lift from the phone. Many times the suction cup would pop off but we kept heating the cup, resticking, and working it until we finally opened it. We used the cable tie suggestion above as well to be sure the phone would not open too far and this saved us when it finally popped free. Remember to work the clips on the side as well once you have a gap. Honestly, this took the most patience of all 62 steps! (Yes, there are 62 steps…only 54 more to go!)

    James M. Day - Responder

    I could not exert enough force using the suction cup that came with iFixit battery replacement kit

    to pull the bottom of the screen away from the case. However, an X-acto knife inserted between the

    screen and the bottom edge of the case near the left corner allowed me to lift the screen sufficie

    ntly to insert a stiffer blade (a tiny screwdriver). Lifting further with the stiffer blade I was

    able to complete the separation by sliding the edge of a credit card along the bottom and sides of

    the screen. A plectrum would have worked as well. Using a knife blade eliminates the risk of dama

    ging the home-button cable.

    JPF - Responder

    They really should include tips like a zip tie to prevent over opening and tearing the home button cable. Now I need to replace my home button.

    Lisa Jakubowsk - Responder

    This step definitely scared me the most after reading all the comments, but with a helper this proved fairly simply. Using two suction cups I pried the case apart from the corner (not directly above the home button), just enough to barely fit the plastic opening tool into the notch. Unless you have 3 hands. Once in, you can release the tension from the suction cups, and simply pry the case open with the tool, to a satisfying pop.

    I used the zip tie trick, which is a clever idea. I don’t think it was necessary, but I would probably use this precaution again.

    Peter Spiegel - Responder

    Patience is the key. At first I tried holding the phone in my hand and pulling on the suction cup. I finally put the phone on the table (like the instructions say…..duh) held the base in one hand while pulling on the suction cup with the other. I was getting movement but not enough to use the prying tool. After a bit of this I ran a razor blade along the bottom of the phone between the screen and the bottom casing. This broke whatever seal had built up between the two and the screen soon came off enough to use the prying tool.

    Gary Grinstead - Responder

    In another guide there was a reference to the screen being pulled away from its frame? This was happening to me, so used very small amounts of superglue between screen and frome, applied using a cocktail stick. Left it for 24 hours. Worked fine.

    Wayne - Responder

    I would echo most of these comments. I tried to be very careful, but still managed to pop up the display (it was very tight indeed), severing not only the home button but, as I later discovered, a cable at the other end of the phone.

    Really, get the proper tool.

    Ian Harris - Responder

    razor blade: 1 min

    suction cup and other nonsense: 20 mins with zero progress

    Jordan Brennan - Responder

    I used the iFixit kit (2019) with suction  cup. It worked perfectly fine. Absolutely imperative—USE A ZIPTIE (or one of the other suggestions such as box tape). It’s cumbersome to handle the phone and you might become preoccupied with positioning your hands that you apply an unmeasured amount of force.

    I wasn’t sure what to expect. Suction cup in place, plastic opening tool on the edge. As I adjusted hand position and applied force, BAM! the screen just popped up, and was saved by a ziptie.

    xtian - Responder

    I had no problem using suction cup - put zip tie around phone just in case, but by slowly using plastic pry tool and pulling gently on suction cup from lower left side of phone, it separated quite easily. Keep prying around edges slowly so that you don’t get a big release.

    Patrick Pedersen - Responder

    I pulled to dar when I did it, but got lucky and it only disconnected the cable right where i would have anyway. Everything seems to work fine but maybe there's damage and I dont know it. Anything to check?

    foyboy84 - Responder

    I read about the zip tie precaution but as I didn’t have any in the house i just went on using the suction cup without any protection.. and in fact the phone snapped open at one point and the home button cable bracket flew away, as the cable separated from the socket… I imagined the worst happened but as the cable was still intact I wanted to check if for a miracle there wasn’t any damage, so I reconnected the home button to its socket and turned on the phone (still with the case open)… and I must had just consumed all my yearly luck subscription because everything worked fine including Touch ID!! So if you experience a situation similar to mine where the home button cable is still intact, give it a shot reconnecting and testing it before you order a replacement!

    JustATestAccount - Responder

    This guide is flawed on this important point.

    I don’t see the point of posting a guide that doesn’t work.

    Other than the fact that i bought a fix it kit…

    It’s rattled my confidence in ifixit guides………….

    iain macleod - Responder

    I’m not sure why you completely fail to mention the tool slot in the bottom left corner of the display? There’s a little slot here so once you get the screen open a little you can get a tool in and prise it open the rest of the way. I’m also not sure how people are destroying the touch ID cable here, it’s sensitive electronic equipment, so care and a bit of common sense is obviously required here. You have about 3cm leeway anyway, which I found was more than adequate. The display may stick a little at first, with years of accumulated dirt in my case, but with a bit of patience and gradually working away at it, it will release. Don’t be nervous and think you need an expensive tool like the iSclack, you really don’t. Just be really careful and don’t rush things.

    Jody - Responder

    If you’re using the suction handle instead of the iSclack, I’d recomment tying a band around the bottom end of the iPhone to create a physical stop to prevent the front pulling away too far. Maybe something like a couple of tough rubber bands or a shoelace wrapped around two or three times with enough give to allow you to pull up the front, but to stop the it flying open if you pulled just a little too hard.

    I think a band of some kind like that should be included in the kit, it would be an inexpensive solution that allows people to use the cheaper suction handle but still safeguard the touch ID cable.

    Takako Jin - Responder

    The suction cup of my Pro Tech Toolkit neither worked on tape nor screen, so I took the blade of my titanium scissors, pressed it against the side of the screen and lifted it while trying to find my third hand to put a spudger into the opening gap. This worked well in the end, but be careful.

    This step should also include hints about putting the new screen into its place. I was happy to press mine gently into the frame from edge to edge, feeling it bend but not break.

    sven - Responder

    Suction cup does not work at all. I feel cheated. I will be taking the screen to a repair shop.

    cris@theworld.com - Responder

  8. iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 8, imagem 1 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 8, imagem 2 %32
    • Do not try to completely remove the front panel assembly from the rear case, as there are several delicate ribbon cables connecting them.

    • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

    • Remove the suction cup from the screen.

    Cracked my screen using the supplied suction cup. Had to apply clear packing tape to screen to very patiently finish the job. However, now I need a new screen. How nice :-(

    Scott Stathis - Responder

    I added a double face tape in the suction cup to make it work, and then, I did not try to remove it until I had unplugged the screen. It was inconvenient not being able to work with the screen in a horizontal position when removing the ‘home button’ but it wasn’t also the end of the world.

    Andre Silva - Responder

    To reassemble, make sure you slide the little counterparts on the top of the display under the phone’s frame first. See this answer: Screen won't close tight after reassembly. To close the display after that, I simply turned the device around (on a cloth) and pushed down on the frame with a lot of pressure. Much better than trying to close each edge individually by hand.

    ursbraem - Responder

    This operation went fine in my case, but I was concerned with what seemed like a lot of necessary force to get the supplied suction cup to adhere to the screen - I didn’t want to crack the glass. After a few unsuccessful tries, I did finally moisten the suction cup and it stuck solidly. I was also surprised that some careful prying was needed to get the screen to release.

    Ed Austin - Responder

    I ripped the cable. Now I need a new phone. aghhh

    Tymon Van Diemen - Responder

  9. iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Removing the Touch ID cable bracket: passo 9, imagem 1 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Removing the Touch ID cable bracket: passo 9, imagem 2 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Removing the Touch ID cable bracket: passo 9, imagem 3 %32
    • Open the phone just enough to reveal the metal bracket covering the home button cable.

    • Do not open the phone too far or you risk damaging the home button cable, or the socket it plugs into. Keep the cable loose—if it is stretched taut, that's too far.

    • Only the phone's original home button assembly will be capable of using the Touch ID functionality. If you rip the cable, installing a new home button will only restore ordinary home button functions, not the Touch ID features.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the bracket free and remove it with tweezers.

    • The next two steps apply to reassembly. Skip them and continue to Step 12 until reassembly.

    I had put some what more pressure to suck and sensor cable got detached from upper part(display) , now what shall i do , how to fix it ?

    Nikunj - Responder

    Is the touch ID bracket really important or have any use ? I forgot to put it back… Is it going to malfunction ?

    John Doe - Responder

    mine did not appear to have a bracket.. I am wondering too if this is going to mess with it?

    Donna Godfrey -

    It's there to keep it firmly in place.

    Didier Daniel -

    My bracket popped out when I opened the screen too far, so if you can’t see the bracket, look around inside your phone. it might be hiding out.

    lucy -

    Mine also doesn't seem to have a bracket. Plus the cable unclipped itself when the screen shot free - yikes. Looks OK though. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

    Gabe - Responder

    I wrapped a velcro tie loosely around the phone so it wouldn't open up too far. (or could use a zip tie) Then while holding the screen down with one hand, I pulled the suction cup up with the other hand, using gradual pressure. while using a "wiggeling" upward pressure, I concentrated on raising the left side of the screen, which gradually started to loosen up. then I concentrated on the lower left corner until I had enough of a gap to work in the the flat surface of the plastic tool. I then pried on this corner. The screen then popped up without stressing the home button cable.

    Harry

    Harry Jones - Responder

    Genius. Pure genius.

    Aiden -

    This worked extremely well. Thank you! I used the tail of the zip tie as a nub to help hold down the phone while doing what you described. The left side of my phone opened easily but I had to use a combination of spunger and X-acto blade to free the end and right side.

    Once opened I placed the same plastic sponger just under the screen from one side to the other to hold it up to access home button cable.

    Daniel

    dleyes -

    This technique is fantastic.

    Boyd Waters -

    I found that when replacing the plate/cover, a pair of needle nosed tweezers held the plate by the 2 holes rather than by the edges (it jumped out repeatedly). I have taken a picture but need to upload it if its required? I also found that taking the new battery out of it's wrapper once out the box has to be done very carefully as the ribbon cable caught on the wrapper so be warned...

    andy - Responder

    DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

    Max Powers - Responder

    God bless you! My bracket flew off & vanished into thin air. I actually spent more time searching for it than replacing the battery. Everything seems to function without it- but your post (and your wife’s experience) puts my mind at ease. Thanks~

    madriverlauri -

    You say you have to use the original home button. But what is the button "bound" to? The motherboard?

    Iver søbakk - Responder

    Yep. Bound to the phone CPU.

    Michael Walker -

    When I lifted my screen during this step, the metal LCD shield plate did not come out with the screen. Very confusing. I needed to carefully pry around the shield plate's side notches, just inside the walls of the iPhone's back, in order to lift it out. Required a trifle bit more force than I anticipated.

    Zac Imboden - Responder

    I’m already limited to using a touch screen home button. (physical home button stopped responding but fingerprint works) Would this take away that functionality of my on screen home button? does this affect the fingerprint security feature?

    Kris704 - Responder

    I used the 5S battery kit that iFixit shipped me and attached the suction cup to the screen and gently started pulling to lift the screen. It lifted revealing a very slight crack and I used the spudger tool with the suction cup still lifting away gently and it opened more. At no point did I see any home button cable???

    When the screen came off more I continued to follow all the other instructions and have got to step 23 … I see no battery adhesive tab???

    Just loads of black electrical tape blending in with the battery seal. So now I have no clue how to complete taking the battery out?

    Completely bummed at this point….

    Alun Williams - Responder

    Sounds like you’ve got an iPhone 5. This guide is for the 5s. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Be forewarned: make sure you really really want that new battery or display replacement, because you are VERY likely to lose your Touch ID feature on your phone after taking this step. It is extremely sensitive. The front of the bracket is the point of tension that holds it in place. In my case, as I carefully used the spudger to release the bracket, the released tension shot the bracket out of the phone and the Touch ID cable popped out of its socket with it. This gave me a start but I inspected both parts and they appeared to be fine. I finished the battery replacement, and put the cable back in place only to discover: no Touch ID. Even after I re-opened the phone two more times and finally figured out how to properly reseat the bracket, Touch ID was gone. Judging by this experience the Touch ID cable/pins must be insanely sensitive – perhaps one pin was dislodged by a fraction of a millimeter? I can’t say for sure. But sadly after repeated and careful attempts to reseat it, my Touch ID is lost for good. :(

    N B - Responder

    Same here. I thought I was being very careful but ended up damaging something even though everything looked fine. No more TouchID for this old iPhone 5S…

    Michael Walker -

    There’s an easy solution to this step: use hemostats (miniature vice grip). Took me about 10 seconds (after over an hour using various other tools).

    Robert Smith - Responder

    Attention in this part!! I had to put more pressure than I should, then the bracket flew away and the cable also unplugged all together (probably placed the spudger beneath the cable instead of only beneath the bracket). I was lucky nothing bad happened, but I lost total control in this step (it was my only mistake).

    Andre Silva - Responder

    Tape the screen to the case on the sides with some slack to keep the screen from opening too far.

    Nace - Responder

    My screen came out too far and the flexcable got ripped out of the home button :/

    Your solution should be part of the official guide, it’s practical and everyone has tape at home, wish I had it done this way.

    alf -

    Just wedge the sharp end of the forceps between the bracket and the plug and push until the bracket pops open. That way there is no danger of tearing out the entire socket.

    Imre Treufeld - Responder

    One way to easily access the bracket (for removal and for insertion) is to rotate the display around the cable connection horizontally, so that the screen is not above the bracket but rather to the side.

    When disassembling, note that the screen assembly is hinged to the bottom on the edge away from the home button. After first opening the screen to about 30 degrees as above, slide the screen in the direction where the home button was to disengage this hinge (this is the first bullet item in step 13 below). Then rotate to expose the bracket to eyes and tweezers.

    Yishai Sered - Responder

    This metal bracket snaps over the plug, and there appears to be a snap detent on the front of the bracket (side facing the charging port). The first photo for this step show the spudger on the side closest to the battery (above the holes in the bracket). I would recommend pulling up on the side closest to the charging port. Also, as others mentioned, when this releases it will go flying - mine did too.

    Take note of how it’s oriented before you pop it loose - it only goes on one way (can’t be rotated 180 degrees)

    When re-installing the bracket later, I inserted the side closet to the battery first (like the 2nd photo in Step 10 below), then rotated it down (pressing it down). It snaps back in place

    spyder13b - Responder

    completed the operation without any real problems, except the Touch ID cable bracket, which was tricky.

    But when all was together - the phone is dead - no screen - just black even when attached to loading cable.

    I went back in and made sure the battery cable was clicked in, reassembled and have the same problem.

    Rosalind - Responder

    Same here. Did you ever get your device working again?

    JCR -

    Is the photo (step #9, photo #3) wrong? The bracket has a rectangular shape. On one of the shorter sides (of the rectangle), the rectangle is ‘open’. Shouldn’t this be the route for the cable?

    xtian - Responder

    xtian, I see what you mean, but I replaced the bracket as in the picture, with the open side to the left, and the cable exited the bracket naturally, without problems.

    Elizabeth Simon -

    STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

    Ashley Lahm - Responder

    I lifted up the screen really slowly and kept the cable fully slack, but it was in two halves! The bit that folds back is seperate, have I wrecked Touch ID?

    TheRe - Responder

    Help. Is there some trick to getting the home button reconnected? I gave up on reattaching the bracket, but the home button doesn’t work at all because the connection isn’t seated right. This is a problem as you can imagine. This was in the course of a battery replacement. Any tips greatly appreciated.

    Jeanne Bredestege - Responder

    My phone did not have this bracket. Our other SE did.

    Dorothy Campbell - Responder

    Like the first comment, it sprung open and the cable detached from the button. What can I do? How to I re-attach or get a new button with a new cable?

    Robert Venning - Responder

    Dieser Teil ist der schwierigste, Ich habe zig Versuche gebraucht bei denen mir die Klammer immer wieder weggesprungen ist.

    Ich habe insgesammt deutlich über 2 Stunden gebraucht, hauptsächlich weil mir beide Klebestreifen abgerissen waren.

    Warum sind alle Kommentare in der deutschen Anleitung in englisch?

    mit_dt - Responder

    Hallo! Derzeit gibt es noch nicht so viele Kommentare auf deutsch, wir zeigen daher alle Kommentare bei den Anleitungen an, egal in welcher Sprache sie geschrieben wurden, weil es ja trotzdem hilfreich sein kann, sie zu lesen. Du kannst oben rechts im Menü der Sprachauswahl die “machine translation” auf “ON” stellen, dann werden die Kommentare automatisch über Google translate übersetzt. Das ist zwar manchmal nicht so gut verständlich, aber besser als nichts, dachten wir.

    Sandra Hiller -

    The bracket is magnetic. I found it with a pair of large flat magnets from 1980s speaker woofers, but hard drive magnets should work too. It bounced off my lap to a meter away. I should have read comments FIRST.

    keesan - Responder

    Okay, I'm confused. I just read on this site that all iphones post 6 you can use a different cable. Now mind you I have a 1st gen iphone SE, but this is the site that fixes for my phone are sent to... so am I screwed, or not? I have the original home button, so is there anyway to attach the cable off the replacement (OEM) top piece to my own home button? Thanks

    george - Responder

  10. iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 10, imagem 1 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 10, imagem 2 %32
    • During reassembly, you will need to reinstall the Touch ID cable bracket. The top of the bracket needs to slide between the battery and Touch ID cable connector, in front of the metal tab. The bottom must latch down over the connector.

    • Slide the top of the bracket over the Touch ID cable connector from left to right.

    This is the hardest part lol

    Bob smith - Responder

    I concur! I think I need thinner tweezers.

    FierDancr -

    1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone. Mine didn't "latch down" or stay in place - it just sort of sat there.

    2) Note that the rest of the bracket this attaches to must be removed from the Lightning Connector assembly & reattached to the new one.

    3) I combined this repair w/replacing the battery, and smashed the bottom of the bracket under the battery/adhesive strips. Careful not to do that, so that you can actually complete this step.

    seijihuzz01 - Responder

    1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone.

    Sorry, but I believe this is wrong. Besides, the ‘clip(s)’ is not the important feature here. This bracket has a rectangular footprint, and one of the two shorter sides (of the rectangle) is open. This open side, I believe, is the route for the cable.

    xtian -

    Comment above was made on the Lightning Connector replacement guide - I guess it got pulled over here since as well since the steps are identical ... Anyway careful not to smash the bottom bracket w/the replacement battery or adhesive

    seijihuzz01 - Responder

    That was fun without tweezers :)

    Oscar - Responder

    Even with tweezers (the eyebrow kind) it was still an exercise in extreme calming techniques. I nearly gave up, but after 20 minutes I finally got it to seat and clamp.

    natzulf -

    It is fiddly and access is tight as all the connectors are in place. However, if you approach at the correct angle so that you are looking to latch the connector next to the battery first... Once this is in place and secure then gently push down the front of the bracket over the cable.

    copeconsultancy - Responder

    I think it's the pics and the word 'slide' that throws people off. I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place. Still the guide had this down for me in 30 minutes even with the 'hardest part' haha and the part from ifixit worked and looked perfect.

    Brent Hillyer - Responder

    After reading the comments I was not looking forward to this step on re-assembly. I agree that the pictures and the instruction to “slide” the bracket into place may be worrisome. But I was able to orient the bracket directly over where it was supposed to go. Then inserted the 2 clips (top) in first and easily and gently snapped the bottom clip into place. Probably spent less than a minute on this part.

    Jere -

    After about 20 minutes I wonder if I could just snap it in place. I did it in about 15 seconds.

    The “slide part and accompanying images are really misleading.

    jpfranc -

    It took me 10 minutes to accomplish this step; 9’:55’’ I spent reading the comments and 0:05’’ plugging the bracket the way you describe. This step step should be edited in this guide. It is definitely misleading people.

    Andre Silva -

    I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place.

    Tried this and yes, it worked well. Touch ID works.

    Basil Skrnk -

    DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

    Max Powers - Responder

    Not everyone should ditch the bracket just because you did. The bracket is there to keep everything firmly in place.

    Didier Daniel -

    I did finally leave it off. I’m sure if I worked for Foxconn I could snap those on in seconds flat. After 30minutes of trying I figured it would either work or I’d have to spring fo a new phone. It just wasn’t gonna happen for me. Right now it’s working so it’s all about reliability now

    Bill Pennock -

    I'm not so patient, so I finally gave up and ditched the bracket. No problem so far. Anyway, ditch it at your own risk!

    Daniel del Saz -

    On an old 5S, the metal retainer bracket snapped in easily. There was no sliding, the rear edge dropped in straight, it hinged down, and locked almost before I knew it. The lack of a click or any positive feel on this critical connector surprised me a lot. I had to eyeball it with a magnifier to feel sure the ribbon connector was really in its socket. Works perfectly after the replacement, though.

    Jeff Clayton - Responder

    All this time I was trying to put the bracket right next to the battery but that's not right. There's no way the bumps on the metal connector can fit in the slots on the bracket. It's battery, metal connector and then the bracket. So easy. Next time I dismantle an iPhone 5S I won't be dreading this step.

    Kim Mace - Responder

    I should NOT have had that cup of coffee before I attempted this!

    Cory Powell - Responder

    This was definitely the fiddliest bit of the whole reassembly.

    After trying the slide in and then press method many times without success I ended up feeding it in directly with the tweezers, carefully angling it back up into position, then clipping it down. But the whole thing took at least 5 minutes. And my shaky hands didn’t help matters!

    Toby Moncaster - Responder

    I was sweting gallons during this step!

    Timothy Owens - Responder

    The replacement of the bracket was tricky. The bracket has to be put in under the two tiny tabs in the back (next to the battery) and then pushing down in the front. I knew I had it when I heard a little click from the one tab in the front seating.

    Ron Wagner - Responder

    HI Ron, you are almost right. Or at least I did clip in the front part first and then just push the back while the back side was in between the home button connector and that two pins (the bracket on the “board”). As you said it just click in and you could hear. That was after I tried put the back first and then clip the front for 15 min.

    Martin Chudomel -

    This step needs to be explained better! The metal bracket needs to be slid in front of the metal connector near the battery and then clicked down. I've been stuck on this step as I kept trying to slide it between the metal connector and battery!!

    Whitney Hourigan - Responder

    Updated the text a bit, while correct, it didn’t mention the metal tab in relation to the battery and cable connector. Hope this helps the next person!

    Sam Goldheart -

    This was the most helpful when trying to get the bracket back on! Once you understand that it “clips” on after you slide it on, it makes getting the bracket back on much more easy.

    Jose Gutierrez -

    And for this step felt like a life long career of tiddly winks had commenced

    Jake Baxter - Responder

    It is confusing in reassembly, that the steps 10 and 11 are in the ascending order, because we follow the guide backwards (I suggest explaining the correct sequence: …, 12, 10, 11, and ??. ?? —> This is another point of confusion, the next step is to fit the screen back in, but because there are many (alternative) steps to open the phone, all the useful comments about closing it are spread among topics 3 to 9. There should have been a box (step) exclusively to the part of fitting the screen , so the explanation is more clear and comments are put all together. There are extremely useful comments here that should be edited in the guide (to make it even better).

    Andre Silva - Responder

    I am having trouble connecting the home button connector to the phone cpu? Not sure why it's not staying connected but was wondering it there was any advice. I've tried for about 20 minutes just trying to line it up and press it down but no luck…

    Trayvon Banks - Responder

    3 times I’ve had to repair my 5S & this was the most frustrating part each time. This time I cheated & just placed the cover back on top of the cable & closed the phone up. No clicking or sliding or fumbling with it. Look at it from the left side & it’s a bit easier to see where it winds up, but I didn’t fuss with it. Phone works fine now anyway.

    seijihuzz01 - Responder

    Reinstallation.

    I struggled for a short time to get the bracket back into place. The bracket has a rectangular footprint. One edge has 1-clip and the other edge has 2-clips. I thought the 1-clip side was a ‘hook’. Haha. NOT! After taking a closer look, I could see the shape and understood how the piece should fit. It SNAPS into place.

    xtian - Responder

    anyone else have any issues with the home button? i did everything according to the directions, but now the home button/fingerprint id is not working. Help!

    Robert Hartry - Responder

    Reseating the Touch ID cable connector is definitely the trickiest part.

    Press fit for the connector back into the female connector side doesn’t snap in as it does on the other connectors.

    It took me 3 tries before the Home button would acknowledge the Touch ID. Make sure the connector is fully engaged by gently pushing the connector sidewise with the sprudger after you have seated the connector to make sure it is fully engaged. Gently though until it is clear there is resistance and it does not move.

    paul naecker - Responder

    This step is incredibly difficult. I finally got the sensor snapped into place (gently), but could not get the clip in. Worst part was I placed the battery too close to the sensor chassis. So I think this is why I could not “slide” the clip into place. In the end, I left the clip off and put the phone back together. Everything works as before.

    John Schafer - Responder

    STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

    Ashley Lahm - Responder

    I gave up also. Pressed down too hard and bent the part it clips onto. Just put a blob hot glue or Blu-tak in place. No problem. Works fine. Stupid design.

    blackettfenwicks - Responder

    Wish I’d read the comments before attempting this step. I spent five minutes unsuccessfully trying to use the tweezers to slide the bracket onto the connector from left to right as described, then in frustration I squeezed too hard and the clip pinged out of the tweezers and vanished. Ten minutes searching the room and it was nowhere to be found. I’ll probably find it while tidying up in five years’ time and wonder what it is. I finished reassembling the phone without it and everything is working fine so far. Perhaps the home button connector is more likely to come loose if I drop the phone, but if it does at least I know how to pop it open and reconnect it.

    Alex Holden - Responder

    I checked this on YouTube when re-assembling. The small tongue should be at the front and you should slide the clip to the right as far as it will go before pressing the bracket into place.

    harwood - Responder

    This is hands down the hardest part.

    Worst thing is, that bracket lands always on the wrong side, when its dropped on the table to be picked up with tweezers, what are the odds?

    Joking aside, I ended up doing it slightly differently as in the instruction. I was not able to slide the bracket in from the side. It always slipped from the tweezers and was a pain.

    In the end, I took a different approach:

    Put the bracket on top of the connector, but too far towards the charging port (bottom of the phone); it will be angled towards the charging port, since the rear lip of the bracket still sits on top of the connector

    Then, align it above the connector (left/right) place a finger on it and push it towards the battery

    The lip will slide between the connector and the back fence, the front hook will also slide in place

    Finish it by pressing it down with the flat side of the spudger.

    Niklas Möller - Responder

    I ripped this cable by accident. Definitely the hardest part

    Tymon Van Diemen - Responder

    Oh bracket, what bracket? I just realized that I have indeed lost the bracket and just snapped the connector into the phone and screwed it shut. The 2010 battery swelled so much that is pushed the whole screen open so if I get a year out of it then great - just for the kids to mess about with. The Touch ID stopped working long ago but I'll know what to look for when the home button stops working. But 13 year old battery - wow and it just died here in 2023, but phone was not really used for past 6 years or so but I swear it powers up a year ago.

    buy - Responder

  11. iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 11, imagem 1 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 11, imagem 2 %32
    • During reassembly, use the flat end of a spudger to snap the front portion of the Touch ID cable bracket down over the cable connector.

    • If the bracket does not snap down flush, you may need to remove the bracket and slide it over the cable connector again for a better fit.

    It seems like a couple of these steps are reassembly steps? I wish they would label them as such. This step and step 10 are for reassembly, and it's confusing.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Responder

    See the information line on Step 9 that says this exact thing?

    Elliot Fleming - Responder

    STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

    Ashley Lahm - Responder

    The little clip is an utter “#*+}{ to refit. I gave up and put a drop of hot glue on or you could use blue tack. Makes no difference. Phone works fine.

    blackettfenwicks - Responder

    I gave up assembling this little bracket and left it out. phone’s been working fine for past 10 minutes. I wonder if this will be a problem later though.

    rkain.kim - Responder

    As has been well noted, reassembly of this clip is not self-evident. The clip itself is not a symmetrical piece; rather, it has a small tab on one side. What is its purpose and what is the correct alignment of the tab as it’s placed over the connector? Moreover, the available iFixit tools are not adequate to align and place into correct position, especially considering the restricted space (and light) to work in. After studying the problem, I decided to use a piece of rope caulk (used for weatherstripping) with its sticky texture to hold the clip in correct alignment before pressing it into final position.

    Peter Hartwick - Responder

    As put so eloquently by many wise ones before me, that bracket is a %^#* to get back in. My approach was to put the needlenose tweezer tips through the two holes in the top, and push gently in the direction of the top of the phone as I applied downward pressure. With luck, I had it lined up JUST right on my 947th try, and it snapped right into place. Yikes.

    Max Discher - Responder

    Got a message saying Touch ID couldn’t be activated. Reseated and back to normal.

    Instead of just lifting the screen to reassemble the clip you can turn the screen sideways so that it’s no longer covered.

    Stephen Shaw - Responder

    The clip is not symmetrical! The side with one snap goes towards the speakers. CAREFULLY use the tweezers to gently set the clip down with the correct orientation. Then use the spudger to press it into place. (Sometimes one side, then the other side.)

    Take your time.

    Annette - Responder

    Reassembly: It’s very often that you get the cable to snap to the connector on the board, but find that the device doesn't work properly. In most cases, re-seating the cable fixes the problem. S

    Sometimes, it's a bent pin on the connector, and then you have a problem… While I have been able to fix desktop CPU socket pins, I have never tried to fix a busted surfaces mount connector like these. I don't know if that's possible.

    Boyd Waters - Responder

  12. iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Disconnecting the home button cable connector: passo 12, imagem 1 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Disconnecting the home button cable connector: passo 12, imagem 2 %32
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the home button cable connector up out of its socket.

    • Be sure you're separating the cable connector from its socket, and not prying the entire socket up. The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful.

    Upon reassembly, I found this easier once I was looking at the connection from the bottom of the phone, as pictured. I had been trying to line up the connector from the side. Once I put on magnifying glasses and had really good light, I lined it up and slipped my finger in for the click.

    Oh, in a moment of relief after getting the cable connected, I quickly closed up the phone, forgetting to put the metal bracket covering the home button cable back on. I had to re-open the case. Don't be like me!

    Keystone - Responder

    Reassembly:

    The original part bends the bottom home button connector back on itself into a bracket you have to remove (not mentioned in later steps).

    That bracket has a bit of adhesive to keep the bottom connector in place.

    The replacement part does not come with a bracket, or additional adhesive, so the bottom connector flops around & can make reassembly a challenge. I found it was best to hold right edge of the bottom in place w/1 finger, and use a 2nd finger to slide the upper cable connector left to right and click it into place.

    seijihuzz01 - Responder

    Also worth mentioning is that upon reassembly, make sure that the home button cable folds to the left (away from the side with the SIM card) as the front panel will not fit properly otherwise.

    Brian Riess - Responder

    这个地方必须小心,我上次就把底部接口搞坏了,害我换个电池的同时还换了一个尾插

    Zhou Lin - Responder

    非常感谢!我正在准备更换朋友的电池。你的提醒很有用~

    Liu bing -

    STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

    Ashley Lahm - Responder

    The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful.

    There is a mistake into the sentence …is on its own A glued-down cable…

    Diederik Wiersma - Responder

    itself is even better

    kind regards

    Diederik Wiersma - Responder

    put a piece of tape over the edge so you don’t rip the cable out like I did. I replaced the battery a few years ago and the screen came out muck easier. this time I broke the cable. Good-bye touch ID and iPhone 5S now I can only unlock the screen with a full reboot and home button is gone. to the trash can it goes! had it many years.

    ethan briggs - Responder

  13. iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Opening up the phone: passo 13, imagem 1 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Opening up the phone: passo 13, imagem 2 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Opening up the phone: passo 13, imagem 3 %32
    • Once the connector has been released, pull the home button end of the assembly away from the rear case, using the top of the phone as a hinge.

    • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

    maak een constructie waar de iPhone in valt en waarbij het scherm in een hoek van 90 graden kan worden gefixeerd, dan hoef je drie kabeltjes niet los te maken. Is mij heel goed gelukt .

    Joop Roos - Responder

    Out of curiosity I decided to use google translate…here it is in English. “make a construction where the iPhone falls and the screen can be fixed at a 90 degree angle, you do not have to unlock three cables. I did very well.”

    Kelly Ann - Responder

    Take a look at 3rd pic in step #13. Letting U know that this is basically what Joop Roos was trying to say. I tried it and it works very well, with one caveat: as U continue to work on your phone, it may move around a bit. Mine did, and after new battery was connected I moved phone around enough to accidentally press the button on top and it booted while the screen was still rubber banded to the box. I removed rubber bands and waited till I could touch “cancel” then pressed and held top button till the “slide to power off” thing showed up on the screen and then did so. After completion, everything was good with no problems. I think I was lucky. Please be mindful if U use this method of not disconnecting these cables in top right area.

    Siegfried - Responder

    No need to remove the screen or any cable except that which is directly connected to the home button!!! just prop it open the phone with screen facing up, an angle of about 45 to 60 degrees will give enough working space to remove and replace the home button.

    The trickiest part is connecting the home button cable and getting its retaining clip in place.

    Dickon - Responder

    We found the opening was not exactly easy to 90°, finally it did open completely. Be careful on the last degrees, the cables may pull little bit on the metal piece you are about to unmount in the next step. No worries, all worked fine. Just - be gentle with the cables when opening.

    Bernd Saegmueller - Responder

    I was unable to remove one of the screws, but removing one and then just pivoting the battery connector bracket worked just fine.

    Gary Carlson - Responder

    I think the little tabs at the top of my front panel assembly broke at this step. I found two little pieces of plastic inside the phone later on, and now, with everything finished and put back together, the top of the screen is a little loose: it’s seated 1-2mm too high and moves in when I press it.

    Maybe I should have pulled the top of the assembly out of the rear case, before hinging it up?

    Jacob Rosen - Responder

    Kleine opmerking: correct Nederlands voor “blikje drinken” is “drankblikje”.

    flitsdoortstad - Responder

    I took a spudger and proped up the screen with that. Works great!

    guardian10 - Responder

  14. iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 14, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

    I don't see why steps 14, 15, and 16 are even necessary. I was able to remove the scene without removing the battery (skipping these 3 steps)

    Luke Lin - Responder

    See Jonathan Goldsmith's comment ;)

    Didier Daniel -

    Working on the phone without removing the battery will most likely damage the component. My OnePlus One runs extremely slow after working on it without removing the battery. I think it's a problem with the GPU, because the display was very slow to update the screen contents.

    Peter Pan - Responder

    Pan is right. Not removing the battery means you will run the risk of shorting some circuits not meant to be connected, and thus can damage those components. This can happen very easily, and without you even knowing it. Additionally, the internal components of a digital device are not meant to be disconnected while having any amount of power applied(and even though your device may not even turn on because the battery is completely shot, there very likely will still be a small amount of power coming from the battery to the internal components of the device). Doing so will likely cause an overcurrent condition that will damage the components of the device.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Responder

    Now my problem, however, is that the screws on this bracket do not seem to want to unscrew. :(

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Responder

    Okay, the problem would seem to have been with the screwdriver that came with my iFixit battery "Fix kit". Tried another screwdriver, and no problems at all.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Responder

    Phillips #000 provided with the iFixit repair kit does not fit the screws

    Vitaly Kirichenko - Responder

    I agree the #000 Phillips driver didn't work. I happened to already have a #0 Phillips that did work much better.

    Bruce Peffley -

    The screwdriver that came with the kit worked fine for me when I applied pressure with my palm to the end of the driver and turned the driver with my forefinger and thumb

    Tom Gleason - Responder

    The ifixit #000 works…if you put an uncomfortable amount of pressure on the driver. Yikes. Use a larger bit if you’ve got it.

    Chris Wiley - Responder

    i damaged the bottom screw with the phillips00 ifixit screwdriver :-(

    Pierre - Responder

    It’d be nice if the iFixit people could address this problem with the PH000 driver. I am afraid of stripping the screw head because the PH000 I was sent doesn’t come close to catching in the screw head.

    orders - Responder

    If you are having an issue with the PH#000 bit included with your iFixit Fix Kit then you can contact our customer support team at support@ifixit.com.

    Tom Gantt - Responder

    The two screws are not exactly same size. (But very similar)

    If you switch them you’ll have issues with Bluetooth. I’m sorry but I don’t remember where is going the longer screw.

    pfx - Responder

    With my phone I needed to use a PH0000 screwdriver. The provided PH000 (and my own from another screwdriver set) was too large. Indeed, every Phillips head screw in my phone needed the PH0000 and not the PH000 driver.

    rhowehmd - Responder

    The video does not show this step, they go directly to the screen disassembly. Being that I was following the video, I did not disconnect the battery, and now it does not boot. :-( Thanks iFixit video .

    Robert Helgason - Responder

    My screws seemed stripped, and when I went back to tighten it the scfrews got stuck, eventually one broke in the scoket. So I can’t screw down this protector. What does it do? Can I just get rid of it? Tap it down? Ideally Id have some eletrical tape and tape it down. But I don’t, and I just wanna toss it. AFraid it is important, or protects a circuit by conducting electricity

    Patrick Yerkes - Responder

    I pretty consistently get the message, “unable to activate touch id on this iphone” if I connect the battery before connecting the group of cables in the upper right corner. It seems that if those are reattached while the battery is plugged in I see the touch ID error. Connecting the battery after connecting the upper-right corner group of cables has consistently helped. YMMV of course.

    David Brown - Responder

    I don´t even have the logic board (if thats the silvery thing that the screws are keeping in place). Is the phone going to work without it?

    Hey hermano - Responder

    I don’t understand you folks having problems with the #000 bit? I removed the screws without even thinking about it. My problem is the little antenna connector getting disconnected when I lifted the bracket plate! I mentioned it in Step 15

    jtreepro - Responder

  15. iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 15, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

    Not clear to me why this and the next step are necessary for a screen replacement...

    Daniel Goldschmidt - Responder

    Well, for one, Daniel, this is a BATTERY replacement tutorial. ???

    jtreepro -

    Using the iFixit tweezers to remove the bracket caused a spark. I used the plastic spudger instead.

    Bryan Remely - Responder

    Is this tutorial or the iPhone SE? The battery should be 1624mAh but these pictures go back and forth between showing 1510and 1560mAh. Why are pictures showing different batteries, and why isn't it showig the 1624mAh for the 5 SE?

    Someone Somewhere - Responder

    After installing the New iPhone 5s Lightning Connector Replacement I noticed there was no foam on top of the new plug, leaving bare metal exposed. I cut a small piece of electricians tape to be placed on top of the new plug to keep it from coming in contact with the metal battery connector bracket

    Scott Nacke - Responder

    GENTLY DISCONNECT BOTH CONNECTORS, IMMEDIATELY AFTER REMOVING METAL BATTERY CONNECTOR BRACKET (and not just the one as outlined in following step…)

    c0BRA - Responder

    WHY? That is totally unnecessary!?!

    jtreepro -

    Battery connector bracket lifts out easily with fingernail (non-conductive, no sparks). Top screw (closer to hinge) is shorter. I taped both to a labelled piece of paper with Magic Plus 811 removable transparent tape.

    keesan - Responder

    I can’t believe nobody has mentioned that the little antenna connector (visible here just to the right of the metal battery connector’s female screw socket, covered with a tiny piece of foam) might be stuck to the metal bracket, and come loose when you remove said bracket. It’s a challenge to get the foam off of it (for visibility), and reconnect! I have no suggestions to make it easier except to be patient! You’ll get it, but my SE almost got tossed across the room trying! ;-)

    jtreepro - Responder

  16. iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 16, imagem 1 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 16, imagem 2 %32
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket or the board itself, you may destroy the socket or damage nearby components on the board.

    Skip steps17-22. Just be extra careful and secure the screen. Less to go wrong the less you open.

    William Stein - Responder

    Also order the headband magnifier. It really helps with the tiny components you are working with.

    William Stein - Responder

    A way to skip step 17-22

    I unfolded as next step the display in a perpendicular way (so display unit and rest of the device in 90°) and fixed the display with an elastic band at an opened iPhone packaging box. Then I continued directly at step 23 with the removal of the battery without removing the display unit at all. Worked very well without any problems… and now I’m curious whether the new battery really powers the device for a longer time :-)

    Rolf Enderes - Responder

    I also skipped the step of removing the dispaly, instead using a rubber band to secure the display to the iPhone box. Worked great, and avoided the hassle of disconnecting the display.

    Daniel Melchior - Responder

    I skipped this step and I also removed my display. I don’t know what will happen in the future but there’s no problems till now...

    Ran Mika (Tshukimi Elune) - Responder

    I didn’t realize that each of the photos contained different steps until later on, (the photos look very similar to each other in the thumbnails), and so I don’t think I removed the 2nd part of the battery attachment as its in the 2nd photo. I figured it out later, but only after step 20, which requires that the battery is fully disconnected before doing. Oops!

    Everything else went well though, and I’ve since reinstalled the battery, drained it, and recharged, and it seems to be fine. Will cross my fingers and hope I didn’t damage anything.

    Nancy Zan - Responder

    If you do remove the display, it is helpful before removing the four diffferently sized screws to tape down a piece of masking tape, sticky side up, and remove them in a defined order, sticking them to the tape as you go. Then there’s no chance of mixing them up when you re-assemble.

    john lawn - Responder

    Agree with William Stein above. Skip Steps 17-22. Simply secure the top of your phone with a rubber band to something sturdy. A 14 oz. can of kidney beans will do. I followed all of the other directions and the repair went smoothly and I didn’t lose Touch ID functionality. It was not necessary to heat my phone to remove the adhesive strips. I simply gently stretched and continually pulled at the base of the adhesive strip. Was rather surprised at how easy it was. Hardest part is re-attaching the home button cable connector and re-inserting the Touch ID cable bracket. When it’s time to reassemble those parts, be sure to go back through Steps 9-12, reading all of the comments for helpful tips. Used a Disney-Pixar-like desk lamp for good lighting and, also, the back of a refrigerator magnet to place the screws while working.

    CMac - Responder

    Skip or Not to Skip, that is the question.

    I opted to skip the screen removal at first. Only when I had to replace the adhesive strips did I change my mind. Looking at the adhesive removal page, I believe the freedom of movement allowed without the screen in the way is key to successfully applying the adhesive strips.

    xtian -

    Screen removal is unnecessary, and avoids many opportunities for damage and trouble! I rubber banded the display to a small jar of peanut butter, and removed and replaced the battery with no issues. The adhesive strip on the outside pulled right out, but the inside one broke. I was able to pry the battery up enough to fish out the broken strip and pull the rest out. Replaced the battery, and all is well!

    Gary Loper -

    I followed the directions of pulling the tabs and I just went super slow and continued to move my placement down lower and closer to the base of the battery and wow came out so clean nothing to even scrape off. I did an iPhone 5 but it didn't have this adhesive. The battery was barely stuck inside so I got lucky being that the battery was swollen. Apple actually gave me a new iPhone 5 when my phones battery was swollen during the Apple 5 bad battery replacement.

    Heather - Responder

    it seems very strange this step’s instruction does not mention the 4 microscopic components on the motherboard next to the socket on the opposite side to the battery. If you put your plastic pry tool all the way into the gap between the connector and the metal shield you are going to pop them off the board and they are so small you won’t ever notice this or feel it. There are plenty of posts on the internet asking “why did my 5s stop charging after I successfully repaired the screen” and this is a really common reason. Put your pry tool in the minimum amount to just catch the metal plate on the top of the connector to avoid this.

    James - Responder

    I too must agree with James about inserting the pry tool. If you insert it at that angle, you run the very high chance of poping off components that are located between that gap. Those components aren’t just ‘nearby’, they’re IN that gap! There’re several YouTube vids about the replacement of those components and it is not for the faint of heart. One is a coil (you ‘can’ place a jumper across) and the other is either a resister or a capacitor and those must be replaced.

    Player Onesix - Responder

    These 3 capacitors and especially one ferrite bead are real problem. Screwed 2 phones up, one totally dead the other one managed to get battery online again.

    Pry battery connector open either with tweezers from flex cable side or from the side of long connector (speaker, lightining port connector).

    Step 16 on photos is 50/50% success.

    valdek - Responder

    I actually find that using your fingernail works brilliantly. just place your nail under the connector where you will feel a slight lip. this lets you know that you have just the connector and nothing else. then just pull up slightly and the connector pops off. Worked a treat for me first time and this is my 3rd SE i have opened now.

    Geoff King - Responder

    I’ve destroyed components on logic board during this step as my pry tool tocuhed the board when prying. Now the phone won’t charge. Be extra careful.

    Betonos - Responder

    Actually the pictures seem to be the same as iPhone 5S and not the SE although there are certainly differences. Specially on the battery connector.

    iFixit should add another note that warns the users of the delicate components next to the battery connector. They can easily pop and cause battery charging problems.

    shoeib - Responder

    You guys need to put a warning here for those micro components in front of the connector. I hit one and now my phone restarts randomly.

    Jacob Hess - Responder

    These Demo Pics really ought to be Directly Above the device/area of focus…

    Considering the perspective of pic(s), it is entirely probable for user to uncouple, seemingly similar, Lightning connector cable directly next to Battery Connector. Just to be safe, without incurring any additional risk or time to your BATTERY Repair:

    DISCONNECT BOTH CONNECTORS, IMMEDIATELY AFTER REMOVING METAL BATTERY CONNECTOR BRACKET (in previous step, #15).

    The Red Text Warning in this step is a bit confusing, but it’s definitely not referring to the ++Lightning connector cable++ (directly next to Battery Connector). And if you mistakenly uncouple one and not the [batt connector] other, like I did, You’ll Most Certainly Corrupt the (FL2400) Ferrite Bead Filter, While Attempting to Gently Pry heated (old) Battery From It’s Seat; Rendering your device’s charging capabilities Null.

    re: Is this what a damaged FL11 looks like on a iPhone SE?

    c0BRA - Responder

    For reassembly, I had trouble getting the battery connector re-seated, because it had pulled out with the bracket, and I didn’t see its original placement. There a two (or three?) small gold dots just above (toward the top of the phone) where the top edge fits — so make sure those dots are visible when you’re trying to place the connector. Also, it fits a bit to the right edge of the phone (away from the battery), compared with the piece above it.

    Zora O'Neill - Responder

    iPhone SE:

    Your guide shows exactly the WRONG way to pry off the battery connector. NEVER pry along the right edge of the connector, and NEVER attack the connector from a high angle. This deadly combo is almost guaranteed to break components.

    Pry the connector at the narrow edge furthest from the home button where there is nothing to damage, and use a shallow angle of attack so the pry force is mostly upwards.

    tns - Responder

    We have just fallen foul of this too. The photo showing the prising off of the battery connector is, as the previous comment says, completely wrong and will result in damaging the tiny components just in front of the connector which is exactly what happened to us. Wish we’d read these comments but we assumed the photos and description were correct…..%#*@ !

    Ed Griffiths - Responder

    Alles funktioniert bis auf das Aufladen. Statusanzeige: "5% geladen". Beim Betrieb ab Ladekabel startet das iPhone nach 1 Minute neu. Hätte ich eure Kommentare vorher gelesen, hätte ich es vermutlich nicht vermurkst!

    hagilu - Responder

  17. iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 17, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the following screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

    • One 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 1.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • One more 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

    • This 1.7 mm screw tends to not be attracted to a magnetized screwdriver. Take care not to lose it when removing.

    • It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 1.3 mm screw or one of the 1.7 mm screws in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

    • Be careful not to over-tighten the screws, and don't force them. If they don't fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size.

    Two screws at the bottom should be the most short, two screws on top are the longest, you got it wrong.Please official verification again, and reply to me. Thank you!

    CLAUDE - Responder

    Hi Claude,

    Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

    So, I was wondering:

    1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

    2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

    3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

    Thanks in advance.

    Regards,

    Cornel.

    corneliumusat -

    Can anyone answer if the blue strips on the crews indicate which screws they are? They are all so small it's hard to find the right lengths for each hole

    Ariel Drotter -

    Does anyone know if the blue strips on the screws indicate their length? I'm finding it very hard to distinguish the lengths

    Ariel Drotter -

    @Ariel - The blue that you are seeing on the screws is simply leftover loctite compound that is used to prevent the screws from working their way loose during every day use and does not give any indication as to the length of the screw. You should notice that, generally, you have two lengths of screws out of the 4 that came out...2 with longer threads and two with shorter threads. The two with shorter threads need to go in the bottom two holes...these two screws are not exactly the same length (difference of 0.1 mm), but mixing them up should not cause any harm to the phone due to such a small difference. With the two longer ones that are leftover, only one of them will be magnetically attracted to your screwdriver...this is the one that goes in the top left hole. The one that does not easily attract to your screwdriver goes in the top right.

    iGuys -

    Hi Everyone,

    Claude is right, after re-arranging the screws so that the top two are the longest, bottom-right shortest and bottom left is the second-shortest the in-call audio came back with Bluetooth calls.

    The same was found and posted by Pete on the Apple Support Communities forums and, as mentioned, I can also confirm that this fix works.

    Hope this helps.

    Regards,

    Cornel.

    corneliumusat - Responder

    The magnetic mat its priceless I found. As I removed screws, I placed on magnetic mat and labeled right away. Reassembly time was a breeze.

    RayBob - Responder

    Upside-down masking tape also works well, especially when labelled with corresponding step for each bit of parts!

    W Fleming -

    i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

    William Boggs - Responder

    The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

    If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

    Please change all the versions including this step.

    Louis Torres - Responder

    I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

    lambdahindiii - Responder

    I completely agree with lambdahindiii, skip steps 11 - 16 completely. You do have to be careful not to flip open the display, but it's manageable with some care.

    I will give disclaimer that I used 3.0x magnification with surgical loupes. Any kind of magnification will help. Also recommend using an LED head lamp for optimal illumination.

    wmlee1 -

    I'm going to upvote the suggestion to skip steps 11- 16 too.

    Some things to look out for:

    - Both the battery adhesive strips broke off for me so I had to pry the battery out. You do have to be careful as a good amount of pressure is needed to remove the battery that you don't twist the top display and break the connectors. It's just a trade-off of risks though - you won't have to worry about losing or inserting the wrong screws for the front panel connectors either.

    - The metal connector over the touch ID button is hard to put back in. It looks like one piece on the video but it's a separate metal piece that goes over the connector.

    - To open the case with the suction cup, I found it useful to place the cup more to one side, and lift that side up first and then work on the other side.

    Take your time and good luck all

    wilten -

    I agree. The steps to remove the display are unnecessary. I skipped these and had no issues.

    Matt Reier -

    On my phone it actually seems like one of the 1.7mm screws is non-magnetic (the other 3 screws are magnetic). Although this could be a botched repair job from a previous owner...

    I guess if it's intentional, it should be the top-right one, as that is closest to the compass IC.

    woods81 - Responder

    You're right. The top right screw must be non-ferrous stainless. I've repaired tons of the5-5s and that screw is never magnetic.

    BJS -

    You are absolutely correct — the upper right one is the non-ferrous / non-magnetic one. I’ve made corrections to this guide and the guide for the iPhone 5 but each time the edits have been denied, once by @Reed Danis and the previous by @Walter Galan. Not sure why they’re denied — it’s obvious which one doesn’t stick to a magnetic screwdriver. This mistake makes these guides quite unreliable and will screw (ha) with the compass.

    Drtofu -

    Apparently it is non magnetic so as not to interfere with the compass. The iPhone 6 has moved tis down to the bottom near the battery connector.

    Jack -

    I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link: http://www.irepairnational.com/iphone-5s...

    shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

    what is the correct way?

    alexaamo91 - Responder

    i had the 'blue screen of death' and here was my workaround:

    Apple logo then blue screen

    kgale4 -

    I was wondering exactly the same thing why we need to un-screw the screen? Anyway place the screws in the order they come and you should find no problems putting them back in right order.

    Also I found the screw driver comes with ifixit battery kit does not fit in the screws perfectly. Feeling a little large for these screws. Anyone else had the same experience?

    fredhdx - Responder

    Because this guide is for more than one repair option instead of them having to type out several this fits in for replacment of screen. I didn't hav the kit but my #000 wasn’t the best for all I used a #00 just depends on if the tip isn't real pointy

    Heather -

    The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

    mnoivad - Responder

    Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

    Pete H - Responder

    I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - https://youtu.be/k_OpjhKAUCM?t=180 . Can we buy it ?

    Daylen - Responder

    Putting the upper screws back in the bracket is a bit tricky--if you hold the screen at 90 degrees, the connector cables lift up the loose bracket, but if you lower the screen to allow the bracket to lay flat, you can't reach with a screw driver. Be very slow and patient and replace the upper left screw last (after the first three are tight)--these will hold down the bracket fairly well so you can aim the last (upper left) screw into the hole and push down as you tighten.

    bartonh - Responder

    That is exactly how I did it; good hint. Thanks.

    Andre Silva -

    So I managed to loose the top right (non magnetic) screw. I saw it fall to the table, but it's gone. Wonder if it fell back into the phone, as there is a slight rattle sound when I shake it. Will there be any big surprises if I just reassemble without that screw?

    larserikkolden - Responder

    How did it turn out? I lost the same screw.

    Austin Packard -

    If you keep the top steady these steps (17-22) could be skipped. That's how I did. Everything is ok.except screwdriver didn't undo upper one of the battery bracket I had to bend the bracket.

    Mehmet Hakan - Responder

    I noticed that reassembling my device, if the metal bracket touch the hole of the 1.3mm screw the touch stopped working. I had to put a little piece of plastic between the hole and the bracket unable to put the screw in (or it would make contact between the hole and the bracket).

    Any suggestion?

    denis.g.94 - Responder

    Hi Denis, could you be a bit more specific as to which metal bracket you are referring to please? also, where did you put the piece of plastic? Thank you.

    jamesmclachlan -

    Denis, could you be more specific please? Which metal bracket causes the problem and where did you put the piece of plastic?

    I have the same problem, (lost touch screen function).

    jamesmclachlan -

    Trying to get the screws into the holes and driving them in was extraordinarily challenging due in large part to their magnetic bond. Screws didn't want to leave the driver, once they were in they flew right back out as soon as the driver came within distance. To combat this, I suggest using a thin, clear tape (I used packing tape) cut into 4 strips and place each screw flat side down on one end of each strip of tape. Now you can easily maneuver and securely hold the screws into their holes as the driver pierces the tape easily screwing them in without losing them or your mind. Also, fridge magnets are good to retrieve screws that have fallen into iPhone's nooks and crannies, likewise from carpeting.

    James Lee - Responder

    After aligning the bracket over the screw holes, I used the tweezers to pick the screw on its head and position it in the hole. Then, it was not difficult to use the screwdriver to fasten it.

    Andre Silva -

    If I messed up the screw placement, can it be redone and fixed by putting the screws back in prober order?

    Colm Noone - Responder

    Like James Lee (above), I found reinserting the tiny screws quite difficult because the magnetic screwdriver would pull them out, with the screw adhering to the screwdriver at odd angles. What worked was to insert a screw with tweezers, then START the screw using the non-magnetic plastic pointy tool while holding down the plate so the screw could turn easily. Once the screw was started, I tightened it with the screwdriver.

    Sandy Trevor - Responder

    Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!..

    yaterbob - Responder

    The iFixit Kit I bought does NOT have the right screw driver to remove these screws. Neither phillips screwdrivers work - the point is much too sharp and does not grip the screw at all. Not happy with this purchase right now.

    Richard - Responder

    Color coding the screw heads is an excellent idea. I used red for red - green for green - and black for orange - left the yellow one uncolored. Did a screen capture and labeled it to avoid confusion.

    Leonard - Responder

    Also color a small area around the screws on the cable bracket. Makes it real easy to see which screw goes where.

    Leonard -

    I found out that you don’t need the 1.7mm screw. The shorter one will do and I don’t lose bluetooth.

    patjmccarthy - Responder

    I used colored sharpies to keep track of the screws. I color coded the screw heads and around their holes. Worked like a charm.

    Brigham Okano - Responder

    I managed to loose the socket of the green screw. Apparently, during my second disassembly of my iPhone the socket (which appears to be screwed in as well) came loose without me noticiing it and promptly vanished later on in the process, never to be seen again. The iPhone does seem to work without it, but still, I’d advise checking that they are still in place when you unmount the metal shield.

    Sven Siggelkow - Responder

    Erroneamente ho sbagliato la combinazione delle viti e mi si è danneggiata l’iPhone.. che parte devo cambiare ?

    garino1990 - Responder

    You do not actually have to remove the screen to replace the battery. Just tilt up the screen at a 60 degree angle from the phone and tape it open or have someone hold it up. That way you don’t have to flex the screen wires or inadvertently damage anything.

    Imre Treufeld - Responder

    I also completed this repair successfully without removing the screen. I kept the screen at a 90 degree angle using the iPhone’s box and a rubber band as pictured in Step 13. I was nervous about bumping it while doing the rest of the steps and stretching the display cables too much, but it worked.

    garygrossman - Responder

    If anyone is still using the dino-aged iphone 5s like me ;) , please follow the steps rather than the video patiently before putting it into action. The screw placement is extremely crucial during reassemble. I messed the screws up the first time and had problems with touch screen, it wasn’t working. Then I disassembled again. I was lucky to have sufficient eyesight to figure out the 1.7 mm screws - both magnetic and non-magnetic ones. In case of of lower left screw, I put the one I felt (!) the bigger one, and at the end, left the lower right hole unscrewed. It’s working fine now.

    Ananya Roy - Responder

    I removed the screws and placed them on a white piece of paper in the orientation they belonged in and then removed the bracket covering the cables (step 18). At this point, looking at the 3 cables I needed to remove I thought one of these likely won’t go back on correctly and will be disabled. I had the screen securely at 90 degrees to the base using a juice glass and rubber band so I decided to put the bracket back on and skip to step 23. I wish I had thought of that before removing the screws as these are some tiny screws. It was difficult to see which end was the screw head and get it placed on the screwdriver for inserting into the hole. For the green (nonmagnetized) screw I used the tweezers to get it in the hole and then screwed it in.

    Gary Grinstead - Responder

    Alas my screws got muddled without me realising and a long one went on the bottom right (as per the warning in the article). When you say “will result in damage”, would either of these count? 1) trapped in a cycle of booting with the white apple logo or 2) trapped in a loop of white apple logo followed by red screen

    Thanks, James

    James - Responder

    I would think so. Even just lines could be damage to logic board. I got the screws figured out using the link I posted above as a guide to measure but my new screen won’t do anything. I bought it from eBay and I replaced battery first. I could see back light on broken screen prior to replacement and I get the chime when plugged in but absolutely nothing on the screen. I was very careful with the ribbon cables as it comes with them completely flat so I just seated the cables and slowly moved the screen to a 90 degree angle. Could I have broken something's in the ribbon cable?? Or maybe just pos screen? Read comments on seller after this noted is not oem and others had problems. s it possible to conn to iTunes and maybe fix problem if it’s a software issue? I don’t know what else to do at this point. Any help I should appreciated

    Heather -

    One doesn’t actually HAVE to remove the display. But it does make the removal of the battery easier, at it is very well glued to the back case.

    jimbbo - Responder

    I didn’t set the screws aside so I had to measure which is super hard but here’s a link to an online free ruler and it has a command icon for you to input show me 1.7mm and then you can match up screw lengths. The website is https://www.ginifab.com/feeds/cm_to_inch...

    i hope this helps for anyone who removed the panel without reading the important steps first and i’m female lol.

    Heather

    Heather - Responder

    As mentioned, the screws are difficult to re-install. I found that sitting the screw on its head on the table and pressing down with my finger the screw will be set on your finger, head up. Then carefully put Philips driver into screw slot. It should come away and easily inserted into bracket.

    wdbowers - Responder

    WRONG !!!

    The ONLY 1,7mm it's at the top left corner. All OTHERS are 1.3 mm. The 1.7mm it tue other screw under this part.

    I broke my phone because of this.

    Samuel Roy - Responder

    is it necessary to put back this plate after reattached screen , cuz i didn’t , for futures swaps

    Nikolai Nikolov - Responder

    With my phone I needed to use a PH0000 screwdriver. The provided PH000 (and my own from another screwdriver set) was too large. Indeed, every Phillips head screw in my phone needed the PH0000 and not the PH000 driver.

    rhowehmd - Responder

    Don’t do it. Don’t do this step. With some gentle care you can get the battery replaced without ever removing the four tiny screws from !&&*.

    Bryce Nesbitt - Responder

    This step and all the steps through 22 are not needed for replacing lighting connector- don’t know why they’re on this guide.

    Elijah Underhill-Miller - Responder

    I totally agree with Elijah, I had to do this repair 3 times today and after the first time I realised that steps 17 to 22 are not necessary if you can find some way of keeping the screen upright. I propped my screen up using a flat headed toothpick and it worked fine providing you are careful.

    Micky McGuinness -

    Auf die Schritte 17 - 22 habe ich ebenfalls verzichtet.

    Den Akku konnte ich mit hochgeklappten Display entfernen.

    Die Klebestreifen sind zwar gerissen, aber mit Fön und sanfter Gewalt hat es funktioniert.

    Der neue Akku hat laut iMazing sogar 1736 mAh :-)

    beemer - Responder

    I would agree with Bryce Nesbitt. DO NOT do these steps if all you’re going to do is replace the battery. Having disconnected and reconnected all this stuff, which absolutely was not needed to get the battery out, my touchscreen is no longer working and there’s a weird grid pattern all over the screen, which suggests to me that at least one of the connectors isn’t seated properly, so I’m going to have to do this all over again.

    Let me reiterate: DO NOT DO THIS IF ALL YOU WANT IS TO REPLACE THE BATTERY. Skip straight to step 23 where you start work to remove the battery adhesive tab and strips.

    bart.read - Responder

    I’m sure someone can correct me, but this is my experience. The 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw in the top right might be demagnetised for a reason. When I tried a magnetised screw in that position I found that I got a distinct yellowish tinge on my screen in the same place. So I removed the screw (couldn’t find the original as it disappeared off the face of the earth!), and re-assembled the phone without it.

    Don’t have any problems as far as I see having only 3 screws holding the bracket down…

    semmons - Responder

    I had the 4 screws all neat and separated, then accidentally got a super-strong rare earth magnet too close to them, and they were all mixed up. To determine the difference between the 1.3 and 1.2, I pulled out calipers. I found both of mine to be 1.1 mm, so they weren’t different lengths. Also, all 4 of mine were attracted to the magnet.

    Robb M - Responder

    Eek. I didn’t have access to this guide when taking my phone apart. I mostly access the internet on my phone as my laptop is super slow. I watched the YouTube video on my smart TV while doing the repair. So I didn’t know the screws were different sizes, they all looked pretty teeny tiny to me. Makes sense now that the top left one is longer, I got a bit frustrated trying to get that one in, and ended up putting it in last so the others would hold the plate in position. I do remember one didn’t stick to the screwdriver, and I actually dropped this one into the iPhone and then on the mottled carpet when I shook it out, but found it after a long search. Then I just put the screws in however they came to me. I hope they ended up okay. I already did it twice because the screen had lines on when I finished, and I also managed to inadvertently disconnect the on/off button and not reconnect properly. Need to make them click.

    PS I’m not sure you sufficiently stressed the importance of the screw order in the video.

    Jody - Responder

    Good to know about the screw lengths. This section could have a larger font warning to carefully store the the screws in the right orientation, in separate compartments. I didn’t notice the notes on screw size until after I put all 4 screws in one compartment. I had to line up the screws (upside down) and eyeball which appeared to be which lengths using a magnifying lens. It took a few minutes but I figured it out due to their relative sizes.

    tshoran@hotmail.com - Responder

    Suggest using a Sharpie to color-code screws before removal. Color screw heads (matching Step 17 if you like) and add a color circle around each screw head.

    MotorMac - Responder

  18. iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 18, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

    At my iPhone 5s this part is missing!

    Michael Schöttner - Responder

    Vor dem wiedereinsetzten des Bleches ist es ratsam den Monitor und den Touchsreen zu testen. Ich habe bis hier alles wiederholen müssen wegen Balken im oberen Bereich des Monitors und hackelnder Touchfunktion.

    mit_dt - Responder

  19. iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 19, imagem 1 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 19, imagem 2 %32
    • Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable.

    The flat end of the spudger works great to position and press down on the connectors during reassembly.

    Magnus Dalen - Responder

    I did not try the spudger (but I think I should have), because this cable was the most difficult to me. It kept flipping (not aligning with the socket) and with one hand holding the screen and the other trying to connect was very difficult .

    Andre Silva -

    As shown in the picture, the cable needed to be pushed back with a bit of a bend to connect it during re-assembly

    Praveen Senadheera - Responder

    During reassembly, it’s easier to reconnect by first placing the left side (close to battery) and then clicking it into place (than, say, top side first)

    Athanasius Pernath - Responder

    In one of four iPhone SE ‘s on which I’ve done screen replacements, there was a rubber gasket left behind when I unplugged this cable. I was unable to seat the connector properly until I removed the gasket.

    Just adding in case you encounter this.

    Peter - Responder

    Das Abbauen des Displays ist Schwachsinn da sich der Akku leicht auch tauschen lässt wenn das Display aufgeklappt mit einem Gummi

    an einer Getränkedose befestigt ist !

    Johannes Clauss - Responder

    Important note: There are four connectors here but only three need removing. If you remove the one on the lower left just above the screw you’ll never get it back in. It connects to the motherboard, no the screen.

    Rusty - Responder

    During reassembly, I found reattaching the front facing camera sensor cable to be the most difficult. I would recommend bending the cables to closely match those from the screen that your replacing. I know that sounds kindof funky , but I had difficulty lining it up.

    Jeffrey - Responder

    Thanks for the gasket tip. I thought I was just crazy! Then pulled that gasket, and presto, it seated right away!

    Kent Alan Lee - Responder

  20. iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 20, imagem 1 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 20, imagem 2 %32
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.

    • Disconnect the LCD cable connector.

    • When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off the connector. This can result in white lines or a blank screen when powering your phone back on. If that happens, simply reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

    When you reassemble the cables, you can align them with the sockets using the tip of your finger. A spudger or tweezers are way too clunky and is actually far more difficult. When the cable aligns with the socket, give it a firm push with your finger tip and you should be able to feel it click into place. This is actually a pretty tight mechanical fit and is fairly hard to dislodge.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Responder

    After some 4 seconds stripes start to appear and at the bottom a black band of some 3 mm horizontally over the screen. I've restarted, but it keeps showing a clean screen and then after a while the stripes and band start coming through. Is that a battery issue? And when I slide up the light intensity button, the screen starts shivering.

    Jules JUSTE - Responder

    And in my wife’s samsung replacing a battery is so easy. I’ve wasted a whole evening and now have broken cables. I get to buy a new screen and no phone for a couple of days. What $@$* is Apple pullig on us here? :(

    Jules JUSTE - Responder

    Because Apple wants you to just buy a new phone instead of replacing parts.

    Bryan Remely -

    No doubt about that.

    Bryan Thompson - Responder

    What can I do

    i tried to remove the LCD CABLE WITH A METAL SCISSOR.

    NOW IT IS NOT WORKING.

    HOW TO REPLACE IT. CAN ANYONE HELP IN THAT

    Faheem Sameer - Responder

    At the bottom and top are some hardly noticeable white stripes and an after reconnecting the cables 3 times with no difference I connected the old screen again. There were no stripes there… The cables on the new screen don’t look damaged. I’ve repaired other phone screens and I think my display has an issue… what should I do now?

    fele felix - Responder

    So what happens if you don’t disconnect the battery before dis/reconnecting the LCD connector? Can you damage something irreversibly? I have what looks like a bad display ertifacts, lines, overall bustedness…) and am not sure if because I didn’t disconnect the battery…. I was following the lady in the video instead of the guide like an idiot…. She didn’t disconnect the battery. :P

    Tom - Responder

    Same problem here (didn't disconnect the battery) my screen is just blank. Need help urgently

    Amina -

    What’s the problem with my phone? It shows the Apple Logo but it shows a black screen after. What happened?

    Marcus Jones - Responder

    Touch screen not working after replacing home button?

    Gershkies - Responder

    I have verticals red lines on my newly replaced screen….why?

    Jami Russell - Responder

    Battery successfully replaced but screen had vertical lines. Re-seated LCD connector which fixed the lines problem. Got VERY FRUSTRATED trying to “slide” the Touch ID bracket over the cable connector, which I never managed to do. At some point, the screen stopped “working” and is now solid black. Re-seating the LCD connector didn’t help. How can I tell if I accidentally broke something along the way? Can I use a multimeter to find out?

    Carol Ramelb - Responder

    I did not watch the Video replacing the 5s battery , but i did follow the directions given. I missed one important detail prior to removing the battery. I did not see the loop at the end of the battery so I ran the pointed end of the spudger along the battery. It took a long time to remove the battery using heat and bending the battery until I could get the adhesive strips off. The directions were a real asset and next time I will watch the video. Thanks! Your staff are the bests.

    MichaelW Parkman - Responder

    Beware, it is easy to ruin the sockets on the SE motherboard, far easier than the 5s. Be extra careful pulling these cables.

    chumblyf - Responder

  21. iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 21, imagem 1 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 21, imagem 2 %32
    • Finally, disconnect the digitizer cable connector.

    When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

    Pete H - Responder

    I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

    ilsedorec - Responder

    pure genius, this works

    Oliver Markl -

    Reassembly—It’s all about the SNAP!

    I had the last-which-becomes-first connector down. Went to the second, and heard a very satisfying SNAP! Then, I became paranoid. Did the first connector snap? I don’t know?!? How did I put it down? What was that motion? What’s the level of the socket with its surroundings? Frack! I undid both, and the last connector gave a satisfying SNAP, when I disconnected it. HAHA. So now, I was paying close attention. I felt the level of the sockets, studied the Mondrian-like composition, and listened for the SNAP.

    xtian -

    xtian you king!

    IT REALLY IS ALL ABOUT THE SNAP

    After disconnecting and reconnecting the entire phone several times, my digitizer/touch screen still wasn’t working properly. In the end, it was all because I didn’t get the SNAP, which is the most important thing, especially with THIS connector. If you don’t hear the SNAP with this, it almost certainly won’t have worked. First time I did… hey presto!

    stick972 -

    Had to try 4 times until I finally got it right, I would say that less than 80° works well for this step, just take your time and be patient with the screws

    hermosillaignacio - Responder

    It should be noted somewhere around these steps that all but one of these connections get removed.

    The connection that is left goes to the Power Button, the Mute Switch, and the Volume Buttons. This connection is on the bottom left, below the LCD power connection.

    This connector was not supposed to be removed, and I removed all of them as a force of habit.

    Once removed, it seems I removed part of the other half of the connector along with the first half.

    This has left my customer's iPhone functional, but none of the buttons, besides Home Button/TouchID), work.

    In the long run, this is not a huge issue, as AssistiveTouch can emulate physical button presses. I just figured it should be noted.

    Mikereilly2009 - Responder

    Using the tool from the opposite side from what is shown here was many times easier (considering I had the front panel attach to a box with the rubber band trick)

    David - Responder

    Agree, did the same thing.

    Andre Silva -

    After completing the battery replacement, when I turned the phone back on everything worked right except, the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen. Does anyone know how I can fix this???

    Melissa - Responder

    After I replaced my battery, I turned the phone back on and everything worked except the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen now. Does anyone know what I did wrong??? I do I fix this???

    Melissa - Responder

    I believe that you “bumped” the ribbon cable to the camera. I would open the phone back up and make sure it is making a good connection . In the picture above, the camera is the black square in the top right corner. Its connection is right below the spudger in this picture.

    Annette -

    For a better picture - The camera is connected by this ribbon:

    iPhone 5s Upper Component Cable Replacement

    STEP# 28

    Annette -

    after battery replacing the Volume and Sleep buttons don’t work anymore. What I did wrong and what I can do to resolve the problem?

    Thanks

    Nicola - Responder

    Step one is recheck your connections. If those are all solid, did you need to pry the battery up to remove it? It’s possible that the prying damaged the cables. If you have photos, share them on our Answers Forum, and you might get some better, more specific help!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I believe that you “bumped” the connection that is right below the spudger in this picture (it is a smaller connection than the one with the spudger on it and right next to the battery). Try opening the phone back up and making sure that button pad has a good connection. It is also the connection in this picture:  iPhone 5s Upper Component Cable Replacement. STEP # 25.

    Annette -

    I accidentally unplugged the power cable and although the digitizer cable is difficult to get plugged in, the power plug is a you know what!

    mcr4u2 - Responder

    Reattaching the digitalizer connector is a ##&&% if you ty to keep the innards 90 degrees to the case using a rubber band and a box/can. Hold the innards in your hand to line up this connector. Once that is done the other two connections can be done with stabilized innards banded to a box/can.

    Dorothy Campbell - Responder

    After replacing the battery on my iPhone SE (2016), the flash on the camera, the flashlight and the vibrate mode did not work. When I took it apart, this button assembly cable was not tight down. iPhone 5s Upper Component Cable Replacement. STEP #25. It is also the connection right below the spudger in the picture. The smaller on close to the battery.

    Pushing it tight down and reassembly fixed all problems.

    Annette - Responder

    After replacing the battery the touch screen doesn't work?? How do I fix this?

    SHVXIA - Responder

  22. iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 22, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

    I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

    For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

    As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.

    IMG LINK:

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1608...

    Oscar Vera - Responder

    Odd..my Touch ID stopped working after I replaced the battery too and I did not harm the connector cable at all and the bracket was snug in position. Then randomly 2 days later it started working again with all my fingerprints remembered. Weird.

    Bob smith -

    Dear Oscar,

    I am very interested in your comment but the photo is not available any more. Could you send the updated link?

    Thank you very much,

    Alex

    Alex -

    The link to your photo is still not available. I do not understand which screw is being referred to associated with the fingerprint sensor.

    Toby Parnell -

    To anybody wondering what the picture was, Internet Archive saved it. You can find it here: https://web.archive.org/web/201606120038...

    It’s also the same picture as the 2nd picture in Step 23.

    Bryan Remely -

    Bryan Remely thank you so much. It’s comment threads like this and contributors like you that make the internet such a valuable tool.

    WILL D -

    why cant u disconnect the lcd and just put the new one in reverse from step 16? wgy to step 32

    Cameron Shelley - Responder

    When you get the old screen off, check the frame edge where the digitizer rests. Mine was caked with gunk that had accumulated there from use. I gently used the tip of a spudger while holding the phone upside-down-ish and scraped out the gunk. Holding it upside-down kept the gunk from falling into the phone.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Responder

    thanks for that... I didn't even notice it until I saw your comment.

    Brian Hayes -

    I’m completely confused about removing the connectors to the screen. It looks to me as though the battery could come out with the screen still attached. How am I wrong?

    Lance - Responder

  23. iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Home Button Assembly: passo 23, imagem 1 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Home Button Assembly: passo 23, imagem 2 %32
    • Unscrew the single captive Phillips #000 screw securing the home button cable.

    • The captive screw is fastened to the home button cable by a spring contact backing. During reassembly, ensure the contact is in the correct orientation—on the side of the screw nearest the LCD.

    • If your replacement part does not have this captive screw and spring contact, you will need to transfer them to the new cable.

    The tiny "captive spring" came off of the back of the screw and I struggled to get it to go back on. I ended up placing the spring over the hole where the screw goes in, with the holes lined up then putting the screw through both.

    Also, the replacement screen I received from ifixit.com was slightly different than the original. The small metal tab where this screw goes in was not slightly bent downward like the original. It didnt make any difference. The screw went back in as normal.

    Nathan - Responder

    Hi,

    The home button doesn't work ?

    Help

    Sultan - Responder

    Home button not working (but touch ID still works) is a symptom of the metal backing plate rotated by 180°. Home button will appear to work when phone is open but will stop working when screen is clicked into phone shell.

    Father Ted -

    BE CAREFUL HERE.

    This so called 'captive' screw is not very captive at all and I have nearly lost it twice now.

    If it does fall out, look closely at the pictures to figure out the orientation of the grounding finger.

    Ben - Responder

    Two things - As mentioned, the replacement screen is a bit different. Mine had a screw where an empty hole should have been for the "captive screw".. a bit confusing at first. Just remove it and carry on.

    Second, if you're an occasional nunce like me, you might be confused by the little tab/prong/raised guy next to the screw. After you've screwed the "captive screw" in, that thing should be hovering above it/the metal plate of the screen, and should look just like the removal picture.

    easleyjs - Responder

    Out of curiosity, what happens if the "spring contact backing" is not in the correct orientation?

    I re-assembled my phone without paying any attention to this, and it seems to work OK... maybe I coincidentally got it right without trying. What would happen if the contact was facing the wrong way?

    wilsonmichaelpatrick - Responder

    Hi Help !!! The home buton doesn't work anymore !

    Chris91177 - Responder

    what if you lose the spring contact. does the phone work without it? if not, where can I find a spring contact?

    Andreas Kouroupis - Responder

    I have this same problem. I lost mine but found the screw where can I order one from?

    kristlewomack -

    I also have this problem, do any home buttons come with this piece?

    fdsajky675 -

    Hello. I lost the little 'spring clip'. My phone is working erratically. Could that be anything to do with the cip not being in place? Thanks

    ggough60 - Responder

    I am pretty sure I had replaced the captive spring wrong (didn't see the second image until I have completed the project). But the phone seems to have a perfectly working home button now.

    Alan Kang - Responder

    This screw/spring combo fell off right before reassembling. Good luck and found the screw again. So my advice: Put a tape around the screw/spring or dismount them from the cable and put them in a safe place. The spare screw delivered with the display was too short.

    Tom Vee - Responder

    I thought I lost the spring contact, but it actually just got rotated under the section of cable that the captive screw is attached to. The spring contact should be "captive" at the same place the screw is so it should'nt get lost too easily.

    Anand Varma - Responder

    On the phone I worked on, the screw wouldn’t separate from the “captive spring.” LEAVE IT! It’s more trouble than it’s worth to remove it, Just reuse the screw it will make the re-install on the new screw much easier. Also use the tweezers to hold the spring in the correct orientation as you screw it back on.

    Benjamin Finley - Responder

    During reassembly, I wasn’t sure wether the spring contact backing was beneath or above the cable. It is hard to see in the 2nd image in step 23.

    But in step 24 the 2nd image shows that the spring contact backing is right under the cable.

    So the spring contact backing goes first, then the cable and then of course the screw.

    Wolfgang Bauer - Responder

    For the life of me, I cannot get this screw out. I have been using the same screw driver and nothing has been working.

    Warren Binder - Responder

    I think there is one step missing here which shows a picture with the correct position of the ‘spring contact backing’. Consider the part which has a hole in the middle: the flat part is sided to top, making the round part sided to bottom. This is a clear picture of the ‘spring contact backing’: http://www.icellulartech.com/iphone-5s-h... (if the link is broken by the time you see it, type the name in Google).

    Andre Silva - Responder

    I had a problem when reassembling, I removed this little screw and the spring contact from my original screen to put them in the new one, but the new one had already its own screw, soI just removed it and tried to put the screw from my original screen into the new one but it didn’t work, and the worst thing of all is that I lost the screw that came with the new screen and that’s the only one that works.

    Elías Eduardo Reyes Vázquez - Responder

    May seem silly to say this…. however it might prevent some confusion for others.

    my replacement screen had a screw that needed to be removed in order for the captive screw and home button cable to be secured.

    Dean Allan Land - Responder

    When I unscrewed it, the spring contact part moved too & the little prong rotated under the cable. I thought (mistakenly) that this was its intended position. The screw also came loose, which made reassembly difficult until I saw that 2nd photo above and realized what the orientation was supposed to be.

    The order is screw -> cable hole -> spring contact -> screw hole.

    The rounded edge of the spring contact should face the bottom of the phone to match up with the hole’s rounded edge. The perpendicular ‘lip’ should sit flush against the metal plate. The prong should stick up toward where the screen will be. Really, there’s only 1 possible way to put it on correctly, but without seeing the correct orientation first, or if the screw detaches from the cable, it’s kind of a pain to get them back together.

    seijihuzz01 - Responder

    With my phone I needed to use a PH0000 screwdriver. The provided PH000 (and my own from another screwdriver set) was too large. Indeed, every Phillips head screw in my phone needed the PH0000 and not the PH000 driver.

    rhowehmd - Responder

    It is MUCH EASIER if you leave the screw ATTACHED TO THE CABLE. Just gently unscrew until you are able to detach the cable. The screw will stay attached to the cable unless you pull it out, which will help a lot in reassembly. Just make sure, as you handle the cable in the next steps, that the screw doesn’t fall off!

    Athanasius Pernath - Responder

    Hello my home button only works sometimes, touch id works perfectly.

    Can you give me some hint, I already opened it to see if everything seemed okay, and it does. But it doesn’t work.

    I wonder were does the cable or contact of the home button are connected to. How does it work?

    (usually to be able to fix smt you need to know how it should be working)

    thanks for advices

    qiplayer - Responder

    CAPTIVE SCREW “SPRING” POSITIONING:

    1) Line up the round part with the bracket on the back of the screen.

    2) (On my SE model, at least) there’s a small lip that sits on the -left- side of the bracket.

    3) With the screen laying flat, the display facing your work mat, the “spring”/little raised lever should point up towards you.

    Order from bottom (closest to desk) to top (closest to you):

    screen bracket > spring > home button cable > screw.

    This was the hardest part of the repair for myself, using only the tools from the SE screen repair bundle.

    Good luck!

    Jordon B - Responder

    My home button sticks up ‘proud’ of the glass which leaves a sharp edge on the outside rim of the button. Is there a fix for this?

    Robert Stroud - Responder

    Help me It dosent Work

    Doktor Crimson - Responder

    The screw and clip came un done and i don’t know how any of you managed to get that laughably small clip and screw back together. After hours of trying, I gave up. It’s not worth this much hassle just to fix up an old iphone. You’d have to be a &&^&^$^ robot to be able to put a screw that tiny through a loop, force it into a clip, then line it up with a screw hole. All without using your fingers because your fingers are 500x the size of the head of the screw. I wish I didn’t just waste money buying a new screen and battery for this old phone.

    John M - Responder

    For the love of god, is it REALLY necessary to have that super small clip on the screwdriver to be there? It popped out when i unscrewed that piece and it’s been a good hour since I’m trying to put it back its position, it is impossible, i cannot do it, somebody please respond, is it vital for it to be there? I’m getting very annoyed!

    Juan Jimenez - Responder

    The little tab/clip that goes onto the screw must stick UP. See the extra pics. I suspect it needs to make contact with the back of the phone.

    If the clip comes off the screw, put it back on the screw first. The hole in this clip has little tabs that require you to screw the screw into this clip; it will catch on the threads. THEN put them both in the hole through the plastic strip and into the phone chassis. PITA!

    Gavin Stokes - Responder

  24. iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 24, imagem 1 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 24, imagem 2 %32
    • Fold the home button cable down, out of the way of the home button bracket.

    Aiuto, ho sostituito il touch screen e non mi funziona più il riconoscimento dell’impronta digitale (touch id). Chi può aiutarmi. Grazie

    Orazio Coccia - Responder

  25. iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 25, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the two 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws from the home button bracket.

    Screws are stuck...! no way that I can unscrew them :-(

    Sumit Bhatnagar - Responder

    I had this issue, screws were so tight my screwdriver was starting to strip them. I managed to get one side off by applying massive pressure. I then wiggled the plate around to loosen the other side.

    mrnoxious -

    Hi every body! I would know much pressure the iphone 5s 's lcd can resist approximately !!? Have you ever stand on it?this happend for me , and in some positions under the direct sun light when the screen is ON , it seems that there is some pits on lcd ! ;-( please help ! If you had the same case! Help Thank You***

    Bryan - Responder

    I could not get a phillips #000 to release these, but a phillips #00 did the trick perfectly. South African version of the phone, if that makes a difference.

    Andrew - Responder

    these are the tightest screws I've ever seen in my life. Tried applying massive pressure and just stripped the screws. Not sure what to do now

    Bob Mcroy - Responder

    Use the #00 Philips on these screws

    leeprobert - Responder

    Went and bought a #00 when the #000 didnt work. Still no luck. About to lose my mind with frustration.

    Mike Manning - Responder

    I could not get the 000 or the 00 to work, therefore I tried a #1 flat head from the kit and it worked like a charm.

    Sean O'Donohoe - Responder

    Sometimes just switching to another screwdriver might help. I noticed that the screwdrivers you often get with displays assemblies are just crap. Invest in a good one.

    Didier Daniel - Responder

    I was successful by using a 1.5 Phillips screwdriver head from a Stronger toolkit TK-LA40-38PCS

    Elaine Palmer - Responder

    Glad I’m not the only one I guess. Using insane pressure for such small parts I was able to get the one not originally covered by the cable out. Then the trick of wiggling the bracket loosened the other one which was somewhat stripped by my earlier attempts with 00 and 000 Phillips. What a scare

    Bill Pennock - Responder

    I had success using the J000 screw from the iFixit Pro kit

    Kalin Fetvadjiev - Responder

    Both of the screws have blue loc-tite on them. Best to make sure you have the right screw driver for the job. Also, if you have the “iopener”, you can apply a little “heat”. That will loosen up the loc-tite.

    Dean Allan Land - Responder

    these screws are impossible to get out…

    Cameron Bell - Responder

    With my phone I needed to use a PH0000 screwdriver. The provided PH000 (and my own from another screwdriver set) was too large. Indeed, every Phillips head screw in my phone needed the PH0000 and not the PH000 driver.

    rhowehmd - Responder

    I had issue with the brand of the screwdriver. A cheap “iphone compatible micro crosspoint” screwdriver removed the outer screws with grace, but it started stripping the home button screws. Same happened for some other Chinese brand precision driver collection with PH 00 and PH 000. With one last hopeless try, I found another PH 00 in the shed (it says Japan, but no clue what the brand is), and the stripped screw unscrewed at the lightest touch. I believe it's not tightened hard but we've been using a poor screw driver without a snug fit. It's extremely difficult to tell if the driver is any good until you try it. Visually comparing the good and the bad driver I can't tell any difference at all.

    Harmony867 - Responder

    Ich bekomme die schraube nicht auf gibt es da einen Trick ?

    Doktor Crimson - Responder

  26. iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 26, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the home button bracket from the display assembly.

    For those having problems transferring their home button to the new display assembly: When installing the home button into the new display assembly I had the problem that the bracket kept the button "pressed down" because the button did not sink into the front panel completely. After removing the home button and reassuring that there was no dust or similar particles preventing the home button from sitting correctly, I still had to push gently to get the home button into the correct position.

    larscmueller - Responder

  27. iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 27, imagem 1 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 27, imagem 2 %32
    • Wedge the the tip of a spudger underneath the home button cable assembly.

    • The home button cable is affixed by mild adhesive.

    • Gently work the spudger underneath the cable to separate the home button cable from the front panel assembly.

    • Do not remove the home button yet, as it is still attached to the front panel assembly.

    It can be easier to come in from the other way than shown in the image, near the home button.

    Calion - Responder

    I confirm, for me it was way easier from the home button. But you must be careful as it’s easy to pull the cable more strongly from that side (more effective, but less control)

    Athanasius Pernath -

    I think this is easier to do with the blue ifixit opening tool (this guy: iFixit Opening Tool) than the spludger. It gets underneath the cable more easily.

    Jonathan Stucklen - Responder

    The flat end of a halberd spudger worked well for me.

    Andrew Gilbert - Responder

    As mentioned above, coming from the left side (closer to the actual home button) worked better for me. I gently pried under the round tab on the upper left of the home button cable assembly, which was the only part not glued down.

    Ize - Responder

    Mein Home Button ist kaputt gegangen was soll ich ruhen und ist das schlimm

    Sim Aben - Responder

  28. iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 28, imagem 1 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 28, imagem 2 %32
    • If necessary, remove the tape over the home button on the front side of your cracked front panel assembly.

    • Gently push the top left corner of the home button up away from the front panel.

    • Do not push the home button all the way through—you only need to get a corner free, so that you can pry it free with a spudger.

    • This membrane is very thin. If you feel like you're going to tear the button, apply heat and try again.

    I used UNDU adhesive remover on the membrane. It swelled and distorted and came and recovered to original shape when the UNDU dried out. Problem is getting more adhesive to replace the existing thin adhesive.

    Without the adhesive , the home button protrudes from the glass and wobbles round a lot. I used a relatively wide piece of 3M 5908 VHB tape cut out to fit, which stuck to the metal base of the home button. This is not ideal, as it makes the button harder to press, but it does seal the home button from dust and water. Some thin strips to just adhere to the membrane would be OK, but not be environmentally sealed. Next time I would use the VHB strips and tiny dots of silicone in the corners. (Syringe is good for precise silicone and the VHB tape holds everything flat and level while the silicone sets.)

    Transplanting the touch ID sensor is extremely tricky, but it did work. Buying the front screen including a home button might leave the adhesive to stick the old touchID sensor to the new screen.

    B Louis - Responder

    The membrane seems very thin and I didn’t want to chance tearing it. I used a heat gun and applied gentle heat and pressure on the top left side. Eventually, the membrane came away cleanly without tearing and the adhesive was still tacky enough to hold it down on the new screen.

    edc - Responder

  29. iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 29, imagem 1 %32 iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 29, imagem 2 %32
    • Peel the home button the rest of the way off of the display by prying gently with a spudger.

    DO NOT skip this step, or you will damage the very gentle rubber hold around the home button, and that may result in a broken home button.

    Addison Rasmussen - Responder

  30. iPhone SE Screen Replacement: passo 30, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the home button assembly from the front panel.

    Take a moment to clean any crud from the perimeter of the home button itself BEFORE reinstalling…

    finnik2d - Responder

    Take a moment to clean off any crud from around the perimeter ring of the home button. Use a sewing needle for its sharpness to CAREFULLY pick away any debris. Makes a clean assembly for when re-assembling the button back into a new display module.

    finnik2d - Responder

  31. iPhone SE Screen Replacement, Screen: passo 31, imagem 1 %32
    • The screen remains.

    • If your replacement screen is missing any components that are still on the assembly you just removed, follow this guide to transfer them to the new part.

    • If your replacement screen came with any protective plastic films that you don't see on the original display, be sure to peel them off before beginning reassembly.

    It would be helpful if at this step, it hyperlinked to the steps needed to transfer the old camera/speaker assembly to the new piece. I had to hunt around for it, and I can imagine some people who don't have a lot of experience with these kinds of things just missing the fact entirely and assembling their phone without the camera!

    erik - Responder

    Guía perfecta. Muy completa y concisa en todo momento. Sin duda un gran post en el que se explica correctamente y muy detalladamente los pasos a seguir para cambiar la pantalla del iPhone 5s. Además las imagenes y el vídeo están en muy buena calidad, sin olvidar, y no menos importante, las herramientas que necesitas para el procedimiento del cambio. Por poner una pega, solo falta que la guía estuviese en Español. Por lo demás está perfecta y muy bien redactada. 9.5/10

    Fernando Exposito Gonzalez - Responder

    I completed the entire reassembly process. but the top part of the display isn't going in. after re assembly the display is not perfectly flat

    Pujan Doshi - Responder

    i had this problem too intially. you must get the top part of the display to re-insert FIRST. mine took three tries, but if you keep at it it eventually works. once the top is in first, the rest follows smoothly.

    che _ -

    I had a problem where after installing the new display assembly from iFixit (which included new front facing camera and sensor cables) my front facing mic and ambient sensor were not working. I could not talk on speakerphone or to Siri and Auto-brightness stopped working. From some of the forums it seems there is some slight difference between the 5S and SE assemblies and iFixit is selling the same one for both. I went through three replacements from iFixit, all with the exact same problem. I finally fixed it my transferring the front camera and sensor cables from my old (original) assembly to the new one from iFixit. Everything works again. If you have the same problem, I would transfer the Front Facing Camera and Sensor Cable before going through the hassle of getting replacements.

    lukecparr - Responder

    reset all setting after you change the display.

    更换好屏幕组件以后可能会有一定几率出现屏幕显示正常但背光闪烁,重置所有设置以后一般都可以消失。

    Ralph Deng - Responder

    Mein Display ist beim einsetzten gebrochen. Tolle Anleitung….

    bjarne duering - Responder

    second time i’ve done this repair on my phone. great guide. this time ran into problems re-attaching the last display connector and had to bend some of the pins back in line. if you have a white phone try ordering the black screen or vise versa for a panda / killer whale effect. love ifixit and their tools.

    che _ - Responder

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

610 outras pessoas executaram este guia.

Sam Goldheart

Membro desde: 10/18/12

465.252 Reputação

Autoria de 538 guias

Equipe

iFixit Membro de iFixit

Staff

Membros da 136

Autoria de 16.573 guias

103 comentários

Why do you guys say it works with the 5s screen ? Because i tried like 9 different iPhone 5s screens on SE and all of them got a line in the LCD...

Dan Even Hansen - Responder

Me too - I tried two 5S screens wit the same result, screens are obviously not interchangable

ernstxy -

An original 5s disply works flawless. Others (third party, china) will have problems. I fixed an se today but the non orignal screen had a blank display but was glowing. I had a spare original 5s lcd so I put that on and it worked perfectly. So, an original 5s display is interchangeable with the SE without any problems. Was yours an orignal?

Nghia Phan -

i heard that its two different iPhone SE models. The oldest one is compatible with 5s screen ( i tried) But if its a new one (like 5-6 month) Then its another screen so you will have to use an iPhone SE screen.

Dan Even Hansen - Responder

Can admin please update the beginning of this guide to reflect that 5S screens are NOT interchangeable? I did not see these comments before undertaking the repair, thinking that I had compatible 5S screens and had egg on my face while I waited for a week for the correct screen.

rendallwagner - Responder

Sorry about that rendallwagner! As mentioned by Nghia Phan, the issue is with OEM versus third party parts. iFixit parts are compatible, but other sellers may not have compatible parts. I updated the introductory text to specify that only the original (OEM) displays are cross-compatible.

Sam Goldheart -

How are they not interchangeable?

Calion -

certain parts of my iphone se screen is unresponsive because of water damage.

It's $450 to fix the phone at apple shop, so i'm thinking of fixing it on my own... but I've no idea whether it's the display problem or the logic board problem. How do i diagnose which one is the problem???

Jennie is bae - Responder

Finally, had to order this from the US to Europe, as I tried a so called original screen, which didn't work. Was worth paying the extra as I can trust ifixit. My 2nd screen (SE and 6) from them and both fine.

Rich - Responder

Finally got mine to work. My home button wouldn't depress, but I figured out I needed to back out the right screw from the home button bracket just a tad. It's possible to test the button while the phone is still in two pieces if anyone else has this problem too.

Chris Sirico - Responder

I have a similar issue. My button is 100% operational and touch ID works great but doesnt have that strong "click" that it did before. I cant decide if i should go back in, or be happy my repair was a success.

Vinny

vrog2 -

Great guide...even for a first timer!! I had to improvise bending the outer frame to get the glass to slide completely in. Other than that the repair was flawless! Thanks ifixit.com!!

Carlos Esquivel - Responder

Easiest repair i've done yet, slight tip if your home button isnt working after the repair, you may have put the metal bracket on backwards, that was my issue. Turn the phone on before putting the two pentalobe screws in the bottom and check to see that it works.

william landrum - Responder

This was incredibly easy. Thank you for a great tutorial. I'm shocked that I was able to do it! I even posted about it on my blog <http://www.silverslicker.com/fixing-a-br...>

Alex Bitterman - Responder

I completed this repair and the digitizer would work intermittently. Seemed a lot of other people had this same problem, and learned there is a small protective plastic piece that had to be removed on the new display. Mine was blue, others say red - either way could you include this in the directions? Would have saved me from opening the phone up three times.

Touch screen problems after screen replacement

Dennis O'Connor - Responder

Good guide - it took me about 25 minutes. At first the phone didn't appear to power up, so I thought I'd messed up somehow, but it came up fine after plugging into a charger.

jrwwallis - Responder

took me about 1.5 hours, agree with comments above - after 45 minutes, had phone back together but power would not come on. Pretty much went back through everything AND this time saw the protective blue plastic from above comment that I took off (guessing that this was for digitizer?). Made sure all connections were tight and correct but still after trying power, the darn SE would not come on. What did I mess up on? Did I get a faulty part? Argh - what do I do now? Then hooked the charger power into phone and YES and all worked (touch id, digitizer, screen, etc.). Just GO SLOW and follow steps. I did use a hair dryer to heat up the home button which worked great for getting it off. Pull this off SLOWLY WITH HEAT and you will have no problem.

Christopher Manning - Responder

Is an iFixit parts ship worldwide, not only US (especially in my country, Indonesia) ?

Because there are so many cheap things in here, and i worry, many electronic parts in Indonesia were third party/china.

alvian.apriliansyah - Responder

Will the ifixit iphone 5s screen work with an iphone se? I want to know before i purchase it.

Seth Carter - Responder

The guide was awesome. Detailed, clear and concise. There wasn’t any problems whether it was disassembling or reassembling. Thanks for making this guide!

JC Alice - Responder

I did everything correct and my iphone se had half the screen blank and the other half had lines but everything was responsive. I used an ifixit iphone 5s LCD and Digitizer and all that, does anyone have any troubleshooting tips????

Seth Carter - Responder

Instructions for this are provided in the guide. ;) Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

I had the same problem. iFixit iPhone SE 1st gen screen kit. Left side of screen was black, right side was there but had horizontal flickering lines. I tried power cycling, and reseating the 3 logic board cables (3 times) - no luck. Looks like a defective screen. Old, cracked screen is back in the phone and working while I wait for the replacement kit.

Todd Mitchell -

I just assambled the new screen I received, it does not work properly. The colour is strange and the screen is not responding properly to touching, I can’t even use the slide to power off gesture because it’s not responding.

Roland Müller - Responder

OK, I solved it, there was a protective plastic film which I forgot to remove. Unfortunately the screen has a yellow shadow on the bottom, seems to be faulty.

Roland Müller -

great guide. very helpfull. but touch ID is not working …

davidcalvet - Responder

[|Repair completed successfully. However, almost stripped some of the philips #000 screws with tip in iFix it toolkit that came with screen. Luckily, I had another tip that did the job. I have a pic that clearly shows the difference, but don’t know how to post it! Recommendation: get a good quality Philips #000 driver. To iFix it: I understand that you can only offer so much for such a reasonable price. Personally, I would have gladly paid $10 more for a better quality tool.]

fixer - Responder

Bonsoir, mon Iphone SE a un problème de tactile (la moitié droite de l’écran ne fonctionne plus), se peut-il que le connecteur du câble de la vitre tactile soit en cause suite à un mauvais branchement dû à une chute? Je préfère avoir une confirmation avant de passer au démontage de l’appareil…

Raphaël Mv - Responder

The hardest part about this is getting the screen off if it’s actually cracked and getting the screen back in if your phone has any dents in the corners. Reading all the comments first helps a lot, I think more of them should be included in the guide instructions.

marcellosekoot - Responder

Nice video tutorail, picture very helpfull for re-mounting. Same as previous comment, in such a case the manual dismounting, step 7 is very usefull. x-ending screwdriver of the kit, wasn’t very good, I had an old one also from this site (8 cm length, with black handle) well adpated.

En françai!, tuto très utile pour le démontage et photos utiles au remontage. Etape 7 importante losque que la vitre complètement cassée, n’assure plus l’étanchéité de la ventouse. J’ai utilisé un ancien tournevis cruxiforme de ifixit (8cm, manche noir), mieux adapté aux têtes de vis que celui du kit.

Philippe Massot - Responder

I was able to install the screen without issue, but now the front facing microphone doesn’t work so no speakerphone or Hey Siri. I disassembled it and didn’t see any obvious problem. Some research has led me to believe the front mic on the iPhone 5S and SE are NOT the same and so while this kit is IPhone SE compatible, you might lose use of your front mic.

Andrew White - Responder

Same problem here…

Thorsten -

Same here. I replaced the screen because the proximity sensor wasn’t working. Now the proximity sensor is good but the front mic isn’t.

YJ Choi -

Same problem here…

Lasse Bombien -

IFixit kindly supplied me with a replacement replacement which I installed but the problem remains.

Lasse Bombien -

Same problem for me :(

I miss you Siri…

pbaril -

Hey guys I had the same problem with my screen. I managed to solve the issue. All I did was remove the front facing camera and sensor from my old screen and replaced it with the one on the new screen. Hey Siri is working again and my videos have sound once more :D

The guide on how to do it is here on ifixit.

brennandavid -

Hi guys, may I ask you community, something? I bought two replacement displays for my iPhone 5S. A black and a white one. I noticed that the two screens have some issues. The two of them are less sensitive than the original displays and have less deep colors. And they seem to be less sharp, almost washed out sometimes. I noticed that I need to press slightly harder on the display for it to recognize my inputs and if I use a pen with rubber tip, it isn’t recognized at all.

Alessandro Regina - Responder

I was excited to do this repair. Unfortunately, either I did something wrong, or my screen is faulty. I feel very confident on my dis-assembly and re-assembly, but all I get are some white lines. I tried removing the blue protective tape, re-seating all the connectors and power cycling. As suggested; still no joy. off to the apple store

Walter Alvarez - Responder

@waltera Could be dust/debris in the connector socket; give it a good shot of compressed air. If that doesn’t fix it, you could have a damaged flex cable or a defective display. In either case, exchanging for a new one will probably sort out the problem. If your original display still works, you can try plugging it back in to see if the white lines persist—if they go away, you probably did get a bad display.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thank you! I’ll give it a shot. Wouldn’t mind having a back up phone

Walter Alvarez - Responder

Walter, how did your second attempt work?

glasspusher -

Installed new screen in my SE today to replace a cracked one. I always get lines on the new display that follow bright/dark stuff (see link). Read all the comments above and double/triple checked that everything was good. I’ve done multiple screen replacements on my family’s iphones, first time I’ve had an issue. Tried the old screen without the metal backing and it worked fine before re-installing the old cracked screen for the time being. Connections are good, blew the connectors out with compressed argon (nothing but the best) but no love from the new screen.

Any ideas? Can I get an RMA?

glasspusher -

Thanks a lot for this tutorial! Apple wouldn’t fix it because of water between the glass and the screen (because of the cracks in the glass). We dried the whole phone before bringing it to Apple and when I came back home and opened it there was no sign of water damage in the case… cost me 30 minutes of my time and way less than the original repair price at the apple store. No issue with front mic, speaker or camera after the fix.

Yannick Formaggio - Responder

Does an original iphone 5s screen really work on an iPhone se? Thanks

rufo_kratos - Responder

Hi everyone,

I did the replacement following the steps but my home button does not work anymore. Both touch and normal button. Any clue?

Maxime Louyot - Responder

Replaced the screen following instructions, but my iPhone SE won’t charge past 8%. Has the lightening bolt sign but will not charge (percentage not increasing). What to do?

weonhee shin - Responder

Can anyone help me with how to properly line up the LCD connectors when reinstalling the new screen. It has been hit or miss with me and I have tried 4 different panels with no display output.( I thought it was the panels but after the 3rd panel, I began to think that it was me). I usually use my finger in unison with a spudger in order to put them in place before I hear a click. Only 2/3 of the connectors give me a solid click (im connected ) feedback while the shortest one of the bunch sorta just lazily sits on top of the connector. How would I go about resolving my problem???

Trayvon Banks - Responder

First, make sure the battery is disconnected. Hold the display in one hand and position it so that the connectors line up on the board. Press them down carefully one at a time. Don’t use a spudger, just use your finger—it’s more sensitive and you should feel it click. Four failed panels is very unlikely—so if you still don’t have any luck, start looking for other problems (blown backlight circuit maybe). Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Hey, I received and installed a replacement screen for my iphone SE yesterday, and although the replacement screen worked, there were vertical lines on it related to the brightness of what was being displayed. I tried all the above suggestions for the LCD connector, but none of them worked(blew off the connectors, it clicks when I put it in…) . The old screen works fine (except for the crack!) even without putting the backing piece on it, so I think there’s something wrong with the replacement screen. This is the latest of several I’ve replaced for my family in the last couple of years, and the only new screen that’s had this issue.

Edit- any ideas welcome. I tried commenting with a link to a pic of the screen yesterday, but my comment didn’t show up, don’t know if it thought it was spam. the pic is at dave dot cisnet dot com slash lines dot jpg

glasspusher - Responder

After completion, I powered on the phone and immediately saw a light leak at the top-right corer, about where the rear camera is housed. After boot, I get the notification “Unable to activate Touch ID on this iPhone”

The display is unresponsive, and the home button doesn’t work. When I lightly touch the top-right area of the screen, the light leak gets worse. This made me think something is pushing up on the back of the display, but I opened it back up and I can’t find anything that I think looks out of the ordinary.

Any help is appreciated, thanks.

Bryant Kintner - Responder

I bought a replacement display assembly from ifixit because the glass was actually separating from the rest of the display assembly after my SE took a hard fall. The glass itself was still in one piece!

Fortunately, most of the replacement went without a hitch after following all directions in this guide (except the rubber band mount… I skipped that and used a hand to hold the screen up). The metal bracket covering the Touch ID sensor cable broke, but the cable itself still plugged in just fine and my Touch ID works as designed after replacement.

My only issue was that the bottom of the phone’s frame was bent by the headphone jack from the hard fall… and the glass wasn’t just sliding back in. Without an easy way to bend it back out, I just took some needlenoses to the bend and gave some rough yanks on it. The metal doesn’t look good, but the new screen assembly finally slid in and everything works wonderfully! Wish I had another camera to take a picture of my pliers job, but trust me when I say it’s minor. :)

theredguy25 - Responder

Fixed the iPhone SE LCD display and home button for my wife’s phone after the screen cracked. The guide and the parts from IFIXIT worked perfectly for me. The new display looks great, without any lines. Touch ID works just as well as before. Granted, it has been less than 24 hours since the fix. Will update as needed, but so far so good!

Peter - Responder

Great article, I used the IFIXIT repair set and it took me just 30 minutes to fix it without any hassle. Everything works like before now, but my display is clean like new again ;) First thing I did after the phone was working again was making a backup :)

rberg - Responder

Worked like a charm!

One Addition:

How is the display hold in place in the iPhone?

Maybe I overlooked it, it would be helpful to understand how the display holds in place, before the display is removed. There are litte tiny fishplates at the top of the display which fit into notches in the casing. The display then folds down like a lever, pivot point where the fishplates are and is fixed at the bottom with the pentalobe screws. The fishplates from my scattered display werde broken and flew around in the iPhone.

macmesch - Responder

Just want to say THANKS for this awesome guide. My iphone started to “unseal” at the top of the phone, allowing dust to enter the top of the case and obscure the front-facing (selfie) cam, and mess with the sensor. I ignored it for a while until the sensor became an issue as I had trouble disconnecting from phone calls when the sensor would act up. I was afraid I needed a new phone until finding this guide. It was probably less work and only a few more dollars to replace the entire front display than to replace only the front cam and sensor, and it took care of the scratches on the glass to boot. The guide is excellent! So again, kudos to the village here at ifixit.

Daniel - Responder

Completed last evening with the screen from ifixit. Procedure worked exactly and was successful! Only comment; maybe a little detail on how to align the top and hinge down to close the phone as final step.

Thank you! Tim

Timothy Metcalfe - Responder

Everything went just fine, thanks for the guide. I have had to transfer the camera, earpiece and sensor too, only a few more steps. The new display seems to work just fine, although I need to make some testing. One thing I wasn't expecting was that the phone seems to have been reset to factory settings. I don't know why this has happened and how to recover all the data from before the old display has stopped working. Is it only me? Any advice? Cheers!

Attila Simon - Responder

Perfect fix - thank you for providing this resource!!

Sam Gerlitz - Responder

First try at replacing my SE screen , but the replacement has 2 cables at the top while my old screen has 3. It was the correct screen for my model, so I tried it anyway. Got it powered back up, but now the touchscreen doesn’t work! I’m assuming it’s because of that missing cable? The phone even had a message on the screen telling me that the touchscreen is not functional. Also, I see no instructions on moving the camera to the new screen. What do I need to do?

nancis_creative_castings - Responder

I did it. Now my power button (the one for on/off/lock screen) is without function. The cable for the power button is the same as the one for the mute and volume buttons. The other buttons work.

I have no idea what i can check, because i think i did not touch any power button related parts during this display repair. Can anyone help?

DerZyklop - Responder

@derzyklop Try reseating the connector in this step. It may have been knocked loose or pried up by accident during your repair. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

This is the first time I bought the tools and se replacement screen. I watch the how-to videos and some on YouTube. The repair went easily and perfect. With watching the videos and using common sense and organizing parts, this is an easy repair. The screen looks great and everything works as before the screen crack.

Albin Karpuc - Responder

Thank you for this guide - I followed it through and most steps worked as expected.

For me the opening was one of the most difficult steps as I tried to “constantly apply force“ to the suction cup until the display was loose and I nearly ripped it off the phone as it gave in.

Luckily just the home button cord was disconnected while it’s bracket flew away. Reassembling was a bit easier and the hardest part for me was the step where you have to push the display into the frame again so it can “sink in“ (of course you don’t want to break it now) and to find the bracket of the home button :-p

I can and will absolutely recommend this guide!

Thor Weinreich - Responder

display cables of my replacement were too thick, tried to push down and screen cracked again. thanks for nothing.

hundesohn - Responder

Great guide. Invaluable comments. What a joy to perform surgery on my phone and have it work perfectly afterwards!

April Atencio - Responder

Can anyone answer this question for me. If I have two iPhone SEs, both with original parts, can I take the display off one and put it on the other and have the Touch ID work?

Niles - Responder

Hello,

yes, you can do it but in order to have Touch ID you must keep the home button so you need to exchange it too.

Guillaume Blas -

Successfully completed the repair on my daughter’s iPhone SE.

Excellent guide, got everything reassembled correctly including the captive spring (the little b*@#&rd), and successfully set & used a new touchID w/ swapping the original home button—all as advertised.

The replacement screen is practically identical to the original, fit perfectly and connected without any notable issues. Excellent quality.

Thanks, ifixit! You made this repair a breeze.

Jordon B - Responder

Does the touch id will still work after replacing the screen assembly?

Joemar Labitan - Responder

If you transfer your old Home button to the new screen assembly, it should still work.

Arthur Shi -

Many thanks! All went smoothly with the replacement screen & kit ordered through this website.

Richard - Responder

I had ordered iphone SE display from IFIXIT but unfortunately the screen flickers often and goes blank on pressing home button thrice. My order was opened at customs in Bengaluru, India. Hope the original display was replaced with fake/duplicate.

arjun e - Responder

can someone show how to identify such fake display when compared to original digitizer from ifxit?

arjun e -

Please contact our customer support and we’ll get things sorted out for you.

Arthur Shi -

Hello! Do the display from Iphone 5 also fit to Iphone SE?

Thanks!

Manu Ge - Responder

I’ve successfully replaced an SE screen using this guide so thanks!

2 issues were that I had to move across the front facing camera too which was additional to this guide but understanding the points from this guide helped me do that

and now for some reason my torch/flash doesn’t work - any ideas on that one appreciated!

thanks

Louise Dancy - Responder

Hi Louise,

It sounds like one of the press connectors may be dislodged, resulting in a non-functioning flash. Check for any loose connectors near the top right corner and carefully re-seat them. Good luck!

Arthur Shi -

Parfait

images très explicites et commentaires aussi

François GASPAROUX - Responder

I replaced the screen on a friend’s SE, in her espresso shop, while she was serving customers at the drive-in window. It took me pretty close to 2 hours. Slowpoke me, but the repaired phone works.

I bought the bundled replacement screen assembly and toolkit ($50). If I do this again, I’ll get an iSclack. I had a hard time getting the case to separate with just the suction cup, and then it came away all of a sudden, pulling the home button cable off and sending it’s little snap bracket flying. Found it with a flashlight.

The old screen had lines across the top, possibly due to a loose cable, resulting from a drop. This may also have loosened the rear camera connector; the rear camera came out when I was pulling the other top-of-the-phone connectors.

I was glad for my little fishing box, giving me 8 compartments to segregate screws.

Photos at lisplog.org/se-screen

William StClair - Responder

Screen I received is NOT compatible. On the corners of the ifixit screen, there are plastic protrusions which the original screen does not have. This makes it impossible to set the ifixit screen flush and screw it back on.

sickfrusciante - Responder

Please contact our customer support and we will get this sorted for you!

Arthur Shi -

Step 16 needs revising and updated photos. And also a warning about destroying components on the logic board.

shoeib - Responder

I was able to follow this guide to successfully replace my IPhone SE screen. I found this guide to be very thorough and precise, except for Step 23 and the related home button assembly instructions. It should be abundantly clear that this is likely going to cause a misstep as it is “spring” loaded and the screw + contact will fly off! Its also not clear directly from the guide, but in the comments on that step, what the order and orientation of the contact is. I ended up losing both the screw and the contact, found them both (astonishingly!), and then lost the contact again! Turns out the contact can be done without (found it on this site from another user) and the phone still works just fine.

Katie Parker - Responder

Buenos días,

Desde que he cambiado la pantalla, Siri no me escucha y tampoco me escuchan las conversaciones por videollamada watsapp. Por lo demás todo bien.bcomo puedo solucionar lo de las videollamadas?

La pantalla la he cambiado yo.

Gracias

Ivan Mediavilla - Responder

Fantastic tutorial !

I replaced my SE ‘s screen with one from my old 5s and it works perfectly! Touch ID and all.

All parts used were OEM

Alexander - Responder

Followed allong the whole tutorial and everything worked except putting the touch id cover (on the logic board) back on. The home button works nevertheless. It was very hard to get the screen back into the housing, especially at the very bottom. Pushing against the side of the screen worked for me. I turned the iPhone on and everthing was working except touch. I was harder this time to open the phone but I found the problem: One of the three cables at the top had a bad connection. There are some bubbles under the glass of the screen but I don’t notice them when it’s turned on. Lessons learned: test wether everything works before closing the device again.

Linus F - Responder

This kit “IS NOT COMPLATATBLE WITH” iphone SE advertised that it does. Lot of tedious effort to find at the end it does not work, extremely disappointed.

Ron McClure - Responder

Hi Ron,

Please contact our customer support and we will get the issue resolved!

Arthur Shi -

mark screws with four sharpie markers of a different Color keep the screws in order.

linus - Responder

opération réussi avec succès changement de l’écran iPhone SE Pas de difficultés particulière en suivant bien le tutoriel.

LE GALL Georges - Responder

I replaced the battery and the screen, and once I got everything together the phone went into recovery mode and iTunes can’t even fix it. Don’t know if it’s a hardware issue caused by the new display but I’m not too happy about it. The display works perfectly but that doesn’t really matter if the phone won’t boot

Josiah Volz - Responder

So, I messed up. I botched the job. However, this guide helped me a lot! I was able to take off the original (extremely shattered screen), take off the brackets, and disconnect the original screen. When I put on the replacement, I ended up hearing a pop… which was a tell-tale sign that one of the connectors were damaged. I turned on the phone and the blacklight came on, and the phone was vibrating, but there was no color. (The first attempt had color, but no touch). Thankfully the original screen was operational, if not subpar. Broken screen: user error… RIP. Needless to say, I hate lego connectors, my hands felt like they were shaky behemoths.

Garrett Smith - Responder

Highly recommend getting some rubber gear ties (big twist ties) and wrapping that loosely around the phone before you try to pop the screen off, to prevent it from opening up too far and ripping the delicate cables.

Devin Oakley - Responder

The repair guide was very helpful and helped me avoid problems. I chose to purchase replacement parts from iFixit for the display and battery in my 1st Gen iPhone SE. However, I have an issue with the display quality. Does it work? Well, yes. But the screen was so blue in tint, I had to go into accessibility settings to try and adjust the white to be somewhat normal and said to myself "OK, I can deal with this for the greater good of supporting the company." Next, the polarization on this prevents seeing anything in landscape with polarized glasses. Sure, the OEM screen wasn't perfect but I could still use my phone for navigation in my car. The fact that I can't do this now is a huge sacrifice. Lastly, I went to take a selfie and realized I was crooked in the frame. I lined the phone up with a doorjamb and it turns out the selfie camera is actually not straight! Three strikes and I'm out iFixit! This is unacceptable and now I have to do it all over again. Thanks for nothing but inconvenience.

Roger Soucy - Responder

I can confirm the above. I bought a cheaper '5SE' 1st gen screen from another company. Everything worked except the front mic (this is the mic the phone uses so essential. The screens are NOT compatible.

I've just fitted a genuine 5SE screen bought from IFIXIT and it all worked 100%

Philip PUGH - Responder

This is great! my only complaint is the lack of detail about re-installing the touch-id bracket. it's not symmetrical and it would have been nice to know there is in fact a correct way up before reattaching the screen!

Connor Hyde - Responder

I replaced the screen assembly where I transferred all associated components to the replacement unit. I also took the opportunity to replaced the battery. The repair was tedious, but I popped multiple 24oz cans of cheap beer, walked away and came back a few times in order to smooth things along. In the end, the new screen/digitizer worked fine, as did the transferred components, although I thought the new battery capacity was less than impressive. I remembered to do a reset. Anyway, the phone now restarts multiple times a day, perhaps up to a couple of times an hour. The cycle is pretty fast, but it can take up to a minute or two for service to be reestablished as indicated in the upper left. I did a few restores from both the iCloud as well as a Mac backup, but the problem persists. Might there be some software algorithm or a "certified part detector" chip or something that "rejects" some 3rd party replacement components? Perhaps a few folks here may have some insight. I'm frankly at a loss.

Reid Eisenberg - Responder

The repair was pretty easy but bloody hell, the home button connector is so hard to click in! I just can't wrangle the %#*@ thing!

ShellStruck - Responder

Hi, I've change a broken iPhone SE display with a functionnal iPhone 5s display (don't know if it was genuine or not) and now the iPhone display the apple logo at startup (so at least I didn't broke the LCD cable) and then I got a black screen with backlighting.

Can it be linked to the fact that I use a iPhone 5s display ? Or is it something else ? Should I try to restore the iPhone ?

Also, I didn't entirely set the screen with the screws because I wanted to try it before, is that a problem ?

Andréas L. - Responder

Hi Andreas, I was wondering if you ever found the solution to this issue? Many thanks!

Romain Cames -

Hi have the exact same issue as Andréas.... After replacing the screen, the phone starts as normal, shows the Apple logo, but then the display turns off after a few seconds, then the phone restarts, and the display turns of again, and so on.... Has anyone experienced this? Many thanks in advance for any advice!

Romain Cames - Responder

Hmmm....so, I did it all again, and I am encountering the same issue. Could it be a faulty display? Or user error?

Romain Cames -

Adicione um comentário

Exibir estatísticas:

Últimas 24 horas: 85

Últimos 7 dias: 595

Últimos 30 dias: 2,633

Duração total: 548,072