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iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement

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  1. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement, Pentalobe Screws: passo 1, imagem 1 %32
    • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.

    pargoff - Responder

    The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.

    iHelpU.Tech - Responder

    Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!

    Vanessa Pinter - Responder

    How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?

    adam - Responder

    The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???

    lkollar - Responder

    Instructions for replacing the seal are here: Substituição de adesivo de tela para o iPhone

    bester - Responder

    I just found the instructions on how to install the seals AFTER I was completed and had to figure it out. Maybe, just maybe you should link this somewhere on the guild instead of buried in a comment. Just a thought.

    Charles Meitin - Responder

    Step 1 is: Read through all the steps and comments or the method prior to starting on this Step 1. There's a lot of much needed information and experience that you can learn from which will reduce the chance of struggling, wasting time or even breaking your device.

    My favourites are:

    Use a hot water bottle.

    Label all screws you remove with their size and location on a piece of paper with double sided sticky tape.

    Test the lightning assembly at step 13

    There is a Standoff driver bit in the box, don't use a screwdriver.

    etc...

    Neil Eriksen - Responder

    A tip for looking out for all those little screws. I used an ice block tray, for all the little screws etc. I numbered each with the step number, as in the instructions, but not all steps have bits to look out for. Where two different size screws are used I had a tray for each size and marked step a and step b. For this I coloured each tray sticker with the colour of the screw as shown in the instructions. All this worked a treat with no confusion or using the wrong part.

    Herb

    Herb Adler - Responder

    The screw size for those with a screw set is P2.

    Gareth Flandro - Responder

  2. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement, Mark your opening picks: passo 2, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement, Mark your opening picks: passo 2, imagem 2 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement, Mark your opening picks: passo 2, imagem 3 %32
    • If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.

    • Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.

    • You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.

    • Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

    Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

    Sloan Looney - Responder

    Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

    Clay Eickemeyer -

    I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

    Clay Eickemeyer -

    what fix kit?

    Meow Purr -

    My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

    WILLIAM HARRIS - Responder

    Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

    AndyF - Responder

    My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

    Gijs Leegwater - Responder

  3. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: passo 3, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: passo 3, imagem 2 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: passo 3, imagem 3 %32
    Ferramenta utilizada nesse passo:
    Anti-Clamp
    $24.95
    Comprar
    • The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.

    • For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.

    • Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.

    • Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.

    • Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.

    • Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.

    • If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

  4. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 4, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 4, imagem 2 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 4, imagem 3 %32
    • Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.

    • Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.

    • Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

  5. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 5, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 5, imagem 2 %32
    • Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.

    • You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.

    • Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.

    • Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.

    • Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

    • Skip the next three steps.

    it looks like a....

    Gergely Soki - Responder

  6. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement, Heat the display: passo 6, imagem 1 %32
    • The next three steps show how to separate the screen using a suction cup.

    • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

    • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the phone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

    No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

    John Toth - Responder

    Hello,

    What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

    Jiří Sítko - Responder

    Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

    Moritz Hartges - Responder

    I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

    Nate B - Responder

    If you don’t have an “iOpener” or heat gun, try using an electric heating pad. I have a small $11 pad I got at CVS for my knee. On medium heat it worked fine for removal and with the “pennies” for setting the new seal.

    Pete P - Responder

    I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!

    Adam Yavner - Responder

    I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.

    terrelldoc - Responder

    I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.

    Matt Brown - Responder

    I'm holding mine just above an erupting volcano but I'm still waiting to see if it has worked. How long does it need?

    Paul Aron - Responder

    I used a water-filled ziploc bag, heated it in microwave. fast, cheap, worked.

    John Barker - Responder

    Hairdryer works fine for this step. No issues.

    tripmusic - Responder

    The most effective way to heat up the glue is to leave the phone in full sun - if it's available. In fact I would always wait for a sunny day to repair any glued together Apple device. The heat will be very even and the phone was probably designed to survive anything the sun can throw at it - although it can get very warm. (I'm in the UK) If you leave the phone turned on it will give a warning if it goes near the temperature limit.

    John - Responder

    I'm sorry but I tried both the hair dryer (for 3 minutes!) and the eye opener (also 3 minutes) and no luck. Not even a hint of loosening the adhesive holding down the display!! Do I send this kit back for a refund or what??!!

    John Noble - Responder

    No luck, guys. 3 minutes of hair drying and 3 minutes heating up the iopener. What next?

    John Noble - Responder

    Okay, a half hour later i finally got the screen loose, but not after super heating it for at leat 10 minutes with a hair drying and burning my hand trying to pry it open. Also, watch out for the power button because it inadvertently keeps switching the phone back on while you wrestle with it. More later . . .

    John Noble - Responder

    . . . and now I need to buy a new phone!!! the cable broke as I was trying to unscrew one of the top screws, so thanks! I FIXed IT but Good!!!!

    John Noble - Responder

    Nate B's advice was key. I couldn't get the temperature of the display hot enough to break the seal with a hair dryer. A heat gun set to low speed and 550F (287C) got the display up to just over 130F, close to the 60C Nate mentioned.

    Matt C - Responder

  7. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement, Separate the display: passo 7, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement, Separate the display: passo 7, imagem 2 %32
    • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

    Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

    Aaron Soderholm - Responder

    As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

    Johnny Emrica - Responder

    Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!

    J Rawlinson - Responder

    Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun

    Bradley Steiner - Responder

    iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.

    Matti Haveri - Responder

  8. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 8, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 8, imagem 2 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 8, imagem 3 %32
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the screen and the frame.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the screen in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

    The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

    charguy - Responder

    Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

    Brian Gill - Responder

    I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

    Michael Sherman - Responder

    Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

    Chris Wood - Responder

    Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

    Johnny Emrica - Responder

    Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

    Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

    - For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

    - Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

    In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

    Howard - Responder

    4 picks and an exacto knife, plus 45 minutes later, I finally got it to open! Thanks tor the tip!

    Cat - Responder

    Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.

    I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?

    Jim Meyers - Responder

    After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...

    - I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button

    - the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip

    - tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in

    - leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick

    Jared Wilk - Responder

    Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.

    hunter.geofizz - Responder

    I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.

    Alessio Toniolo - Responder

    Suction cup pliers. Dead easy

    Bradley Steiner - Responder

    After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all - if you’re using force, you’re doing it wrong. Heat, very very gentle exact-o knife barely down then fully under the screen below the home button … perfect. Slow and patient around the upper corners, and don’t forget to heat there as well! Thank you all!

    dantegd - Responder

    The problems with this step are (1) not having three hands and (2) managing to hold the phone in a way that doesn't put reverse pressure somewhere else on the screen. Exacto knife was the best tip. It's a little dangerous. On a misstep you may scratch the screen or jab yourself, but it's what got me in.

    thewrytstf - Responder

    sorry, could not lift off the display any nano-meter even after applying enough force I think and heating it up. need to visit a store.

    Andi Tony - Responder

    I used a razor blade and plenty of heat, and it somehow worked like a charm at the cost of me cutting myself. Definitely be careful when doing this, I used the razor blade on the left side of the iphone then wedged in a small screwdriver and then used the pick to cut the rest of the material away.

    Sharaf Kazi - Responder

  9. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 9, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 9, imagem 2 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 9, imagem 3 %32
    • Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

    • Stop near the top left corner of the display.

    • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

    My Plektrum worked ok, but the edges broke off a bit towards the end

    griffin.weber - Responder

  10. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement, Screen information: passo 10, imagem 1 %32
    • There are delicate cables along the right edge of your iPhone. Don't insert your pick here, as you may damage the cables.

    I was trying to replace my battery, and accidentally cut one of the cords on my screen. I marked my pick, so i don't know how it happened.

    Gib Jeffries - Responder

  11. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 11, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 11, imagem 2 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 11, imagem 3 %32
    • Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.

    • Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the display cables.

    No pick in the kit you sent me.

    Ted Cooper - Responder

  12. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 12, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 12, imagem 2 %32
    • Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.

    • Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.

    • Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

  13. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 13, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 13, imagem 2 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 13, imagem 3 %32
    • Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

    I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help

    Karen Flowers - Responder

    I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.

    Adam Yavner - Responder

    This bit was awkward as to get a good grip I kept inadvertently switching the %#*@ phone on!

    wendyhoward - Responder

  14. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 14, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 14, imagem 2 %32
    • Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

  15. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 15, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 15, imagem 2 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 15, imagem 3 %32
    • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

    • Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

    Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

    Manfred Wachtel - Responder

    Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

    Sebastian Plickert - Responder

    “Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

    Which is the same as folding to the right.

    “Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

    Maybe it gets lost in translation?

    Nick Shtangey -

    Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

    Jim Glenys - Responder

    When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

    Jim Glenys - Responder

    Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

    DO NOT LAY THE TWO HALVES FLAT!!! There is a reason why the third photo shows the screen half leaning against a box! This really needs to be a warning in addition to the one about not separating the display.

    Mangled Jargon - Responder

  16. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement, Battery Disconnection: passo 16, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the following four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.6 mm screw

    Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.

    u204863 - Responder

    Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    You could stick the suction cup back on, near the right side of the phone, with the blue hook oriented in such a way that it becomes a stand for the screen. That way it won’t open much more than 90 degrees, and leaves both your hands free.

    Mark -

    The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?

    shannon caldwell - Responder

    At first I think I was being too careful and was getting no where. I got better results by pressing down on the screwdriver with more pressure while turning and those little screws came right out.

    LadyTech - Responder

    I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?

    Katherine Monday - Responder

    @katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    my screwdriver will only remove the 2.6mm screw and not the others, what shall i do?

    AubreyG1 - Responder

    A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!

    Trey Smith - Responder

    STOP! Before you remove Any screws, be sure to create several bins to hold the various sizes in… or mark them like Trey suggested. I failed to pay attention because I thought they were all the same… they are not. It is very hard to figure out the sizes if you remove them all and store them in a single location.

    John Grant - Responder

    i had a piece of paper with the steps numbered that involved screws. I had double sided tape on the paper and the number of screws and thier position marked. This was so helpful in removing and then finding and installing the tiniest screws on earth. And i have TINY hands. I can’t imagine someone with large paws being able to accomplish any of this.

    Tina Matthews - Responder

    there is one screw thats 1.2 mm but its bigger than the others and will fit in no hole of the entire phone. i got it out bot now i have no idea where it has to go i tried every hole. can somebody help me?

    Lars Göbel - Responder

    what do i do if one of the screws dont want to come off

    Neylley Reynoso - Responder

  17. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 17, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 17, imagem 2 %32
    • Remove the lower display cable bracket.

    I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    chris west - Responder

    If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.

    Scott Havard - Responder

    Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol

    Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.

    jeffrey griffith - Responder

    I had to use a fingernail to dislodge the bracket. As Jeffrey said, it was apparently stuck to the connector.

    lkollar - Responder

  18. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 18, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 18, imagem 2 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 18, imagem 3 %32
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

    You could cover the battery socket with a small piece of tape to make sure that it doesn’t accidentally re-connect. It’s not likely to, but I liked the peace of mind.

    Mark - Responder

    on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.

    Sarr Sheffer - Responder

    I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.

    MajorCouillon - Responder

    After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.

    Evan O - Responder

  19. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement, Display Assembly: passo 19, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement, Display Assembly: passo 19, imagem 2 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement, Display Assembly: passo 19, imagem 3 %32
    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

    • To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

    The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

    Talon - Responder

    What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?

    Alextay - Responder

    Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….

    Darius Varanavičius -

    what are my options if the display connector broke? can it be replaced or do I need to get a whole new screen?

    matomach - Responder

    When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.

    Grant Crawford - Responder

    My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol

    Joshua Driscoll - Responder

    have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…

    ibisiki -

    Bent the pins on the connector out of place, worked them very carefully back with fine nose tweezers. This was by far the crux of the repair for me.

    nicO - Responder

  20. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 20, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 20, imagem 2 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 20, imagem 3 %32
    • Remove the three tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • Two 1.0 mm screws

    • Remove the bracket.

    Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

    chris west - Responder

    I know your comment was posted a long time ago but just in case someone else has the same problem, the only difference in the screws are the lengths. The ends are the same.

    mcr4u2 - Responder

    What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?

    assweeetasyou - Responder

    Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!

    Wayne Lyell -

    Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +

    Jeremiah Kjensmo - Responder

    I called the y tip a triangle tip until I read these comments. Thanks for the correction

    Kayla Tobin -

    Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?

    alicenine84 - Responder

    Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.

    Benji - Responder

    I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.

    Stephen Patterson -

    I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?

    I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.

    My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.

    Would appreciate any advice!

    jrosegoep - Responder

    Dear IFixit: First, I want You to know I love your repair guides. I consider You to be the absolute best repair manuals available. But, hopefully as your friend I am going to point out once the bracked is removed a 2.0 mm Standoff screw should appear. It’s 1 of 2 screws holding the Antena Flex Cable in place. Rob

    Robert Schmidt - Responder

  21. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 21, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 21, imagem 2 %32
    • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

    • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

    Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!

    Kevin Reilly - Responder

    Thanks Kevin. I would be stuck if I hadn't read your comment!?! Great input.

    Lukas Watts -

    That's save my life!thanks god!

    neg -

    I also made this mistake! Thank goodness it didn’t break anything.

    That Guy - Responder

  22. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 22, imagem 1 %32

    When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.

    Benji - Responder

    Thank you for including a link to the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide, this was very helpful!

    Robert O'Brien - Responder

    is it really necessary to remove the display? the screen connectors are delicate and I fear re-assembly errors. I changed the battery and did not remove any screen connectors. no problems.

    jacobra - Responder

    Due to the fact that THIS is the repair guide for replacing the DISPLAY it IS necessary to remove the display connectors. There is another guide for changing the battery -- you might want to follow that one.

    Hannes -

    I did not remove the display and ended up ripping one of the lower display cable ribbons when I turned the phone to remove one of the connectors. Be careful. I had to get a new display and move the Touch ID button.

    Shawn Hime - Responder

    I think that moving the replacement of the seal lower in the chain of events would be more beneficial. I'm replacing the battery, and stretching the adhesive tabs that held the battery in at a low angle kept sticking themselves to the newly-installed adhesive seal.

    In the end, I wound up having to just remove the section of the seal along the bottom of the case :-/

    If I'd been looking at the bigger picture, I'd have wanted to put the seal on right before reattaching the screen cables.

    Rob Russell - Responder

    This guide does not show you the removal process for the top camera assembly. My screen looks like the one pictured but my replacement doesn't have the top connector or any of the front facing camera components and since the ribbon for the connectors looks like its coming out from underneath the display I can't see how to swap it over to the new display.

    Jezagee - Responder

  23. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement, Left Wi-Fi Antenna: passo 23, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove three Phillips screws securing the antenna component:

    • Two 1.3 mm screws

    • One 1.2 mm screw

    It is not necessary to remove the logic board. remove the three standoff screws and the simcard holder and push back the sim ejector pin and you can lift the logic board up about 7mm. with isopropyl to loosen the adhesive, slide a spudger under the old charge port cable you can easily slide it out. Makes the job a lot easier and quicker.

    Jack - Responder

    Yep it works, Jack. Thank you.

    Simon -

    Thanks Jack,

    Followed your advice and saves a fair bit of work.

    Drew McCluskey - Responder

    To each it’s own, but it was much better for me once I went through the steps and took the logic board off. It’s not hard. Without taking the board off, I found that the logic board is just too rigid to easily lift it up by 7mm. Plus the old Lightning Port assembly is stuck on the case pretty strong and putting the new one in with the adhesive and lining it up correctly would be impossible for me without the logic board clear out of the way. My personal recommendation is to stick to the script on this iFixit process.

    S C - Responder

  24. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 24, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna component to the top edge of the rear case.

    This screw is slightly larger than the other 1.3mm ones. Don't mix it up like me.

    vinicius.edson - Responder

  25. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 25, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 25, imagem 2 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 25, imagem 3 %32
    • The screw boss at the top of the antenna component is tucked into a small recess in the top edge of the iPhone.

    • Tilt the antenna component up towards the top of the phone.

    • Slide the screw boss down and out of its recess.

  26. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 26, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the top left antenna component.

    How do I know if this part is the issue?

    MSD Secretary - Responder

  27. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement, SIM Card: passo 27, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement, SIM Card: passo 27, imagem 2 %32
    • Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.

    • Press firmly to eject the tray.

  28. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 28, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 28, imagem 2 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 28, imagem 3 %32
    • Remove the SIM card tray from the iPhone.

    • The SIM card will fall out of the tray easily.

    • When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

    • A thin rubber gasket around the SIM tray provides water and dust protection. If this gasket is damaged or missing, replace the gasket to protect your iPhone's internal components.

    كيف اخرج الشريحه اذا علقت في الجوال من دون مدخل الشريحه

    Salem - Responder

    كيف اخرج الشريحه اذا علقت في الجواب من دون مدخل الشريحه نفسها

    Salem - Responder

  29. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement, Logic Board: passo 29, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement, Logic Board: passo 29, imagem 2 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement, Logic Board: passo 29, imagem 3 %32
    • Use an iFixit opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the dual camera cable connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets.

  30. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 30, imagem 1 %32
    Ferramenta utilizada nesse passo:
    Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones
    $5.49
    Comprar
    • Remove the two screws securing the rear-facing camera bracket:

    • One 1.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 2.2 mm standoff screw

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    Why is there a standoff screw here? No other screw goes into it so why not have a Phillips?

    Trevor Smith - Responder

    More to the point, why doesn’t the Ifixit tool kit for this job come with the bit required?

    John Tinsley - Responder

    Second that, sitting here trying to figure out how to get it out.

    Jeffrey Wilhelm -

    iFixit kits do come with all the required bits, but sometimes specialty bits like this one are packed into a different part of the box. Unpack the entire kit and you should find it. In the unlikely event that it really is missing due to a packing error, contact customer support and they’ll send you the missing bit ASAP.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I strongly urge Ifixit to change this comment “In a pinch, a flathead screwdriver will do the job” - maybe ok for REMOVAL ONLY, but for REASSEMBLY - it is very dangerous - i used a flathead while fixing my daughters phone and they kept going crooked - easily causing me 1-2 hours of frustration and STRIPPING THE THREADS IN THE ALUMINUM BACK FRAME BODY !!!!

    I had to hot glue a couple spots and skip several screws on reassembly to do the jankiest, most embarrasing repair job - BUY THE RIGHT SPECIAL TOOL FOR THE STANDOFF SCREWS OR YOU’LL REGRET IT!!!

    treadmillfix - Responder

    There is no tool for this special screw. What gives?

    Jacob DeShazo - Responder

    My kit has the standoff bit, just wasn't in the tool tray, it was loose in the box with another bit.

    Neil Eriksen - Responder

    I tried it with the flat blade instead of the standoff screwdriver and it worked, but I figure it added about 15 minutes of fumbling around and some risk of slipping and stripping. I have the iFixIt kit with like 80 bits so I just assumed it would be in there. Had I known before starting, I would have definitely gotten a standoff bit, just for the peace of mind.

    Arnie Schoenberg - Responder

  31. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 31, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the bracket covering the rear-facing camera.

  32. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 32, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the upper cable bracket.

  33. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 33, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the upper cable bracket.

  34. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 34, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the grounding clip at the top left edge of the logic board.

  35. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 35, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the grounding clip.

  36. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 36, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 36, imagem 2 %32
    • Remove the 1.3 mm Phillips screw securing the antenna flex cable to the top edge of the iPhone's rear case.

    • Remove the remaining Phillips screw from the antenna flex cable.

    This step is when you will also need to remove a second screw on the antenna flex cable, below and left of the circled screw.

    Evan O - Responder

    Evan O is right! There is a 2.0 mm Standoff screw right below; and possibly slightly left, of the top 1.3 mm Phillips screw. It should actually show up in Step 15 as soon as the bracket is removed. Rob

    Robert Schmidt - Responder

    Also that "remaining" phillips screw is I think a 1.6mm phillips screw. It helps to identify them when reassembling.

    S C - Responder

  37. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 37, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 37, imagem 2 %32
    • Use a fingernail or the sharp end of an iFixit opening tool to pry up and disconnect the antenna flex cable connector from the logic board.

  38. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 38, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 38, imagem 2 %32
    • Slide the flat edge of a spudger underneath the antenna flex cable to separate the adhesive holding it in place.

  39. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 39, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 39, imagem 2 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 39, imagem 3 %32
    • The screw boss at the top of the antenna flex cable is tucked into a small recess in the top edge of the iPhone.

    • Tilt the antenna flex cable up toward the top of the iPhone.

    • Slide the screw boss down and out of its recess.

    • Remove the antenna flex cable.

    What is underneath the Antena flex Cable?

    Robert Schmidt - Responder

    I’m still waiting for response. Someone had the nerve to ask me, ‘Which Antena flex Cable?’ with response.

    Robert Schmidt - Responder

    IfixIt: I need You to clarify something I just descovered. I just received different iPhone 7 Plus and Antena flex cable came off and left Standoff screw still on logic board. Different iPhone 7 Plus actually has Standoff screw attached to cable in way it’s impossible to separate.

    Rob

    Robert Schmidt - Responder

  40. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 40, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 40, imagem 2 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 40, imagem 3 %32
    • Use a thin pry tool or tweezers to carefully pry up and disconnect the two coaxial cable connectors from the logic board.

    • During reassembly, these can be tricky to reconnect. One at a time, hold each connector in place over its socket and press down with the flat of your spudger. The connector should snap into place.

    • The coaxial cable closest to the battery connector is responsible for the Wi-Fi Diversity Antenna. The other coaxial cable is for the secondary cell antenna. Make sure to reconnect them to the correct sockets.

    What purpose do these coax cables have?

    Eddie Orantes - Responder

    Note… the top coax (nearest the battery connector) leads to the WiFi Diversity Antenna on the speaker assembly. The other coax is for the secondary cell antenna, part of the lightning assembly. Be sure to reassemble them to the right sockets!

    Ronald Stamper - Responder

    Thanks so much for this helpful comment! I have just spent a few hours trying to find that information and here it is.

    thalley -

    Thank you so much, same as Thalley, more than 30 minutes that I’m searching for this info everywhere !!

    Olivier Tardy -

    Any tips on remembering which coax goes to which socket?

    Alan Chen -

    Thanks, I was almost certain but the OEM part came with longer coax, your post saved me time, and reasured me ;)

    Martin Lambev -

    Ronald Stamper, is this the same for the 7?

    Keah Smith - Responder

    put a dab of tippex on the top connector so you remember which is which

    Richard - Responder

    %#*@, the ifixit's coaxial connector's quality is such a rubbish. needed a lucky chance to actually insert it into the slot

    Taras Halaida - Responder

  41. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 41, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 41, imagem 2 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 41, imagem 3 %32
    • Disconnect the two remaining ribbon cables from the logic board:

    • Disconnect the upper cable connector by prying from the top

    • Disconnect the Lightning port connector by prying along the outer edge

  42. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 42, imagem 1 %32
    Ferramenta utilizada nesse passo:
    iFixit Precision 4 mm Screwdriver Bit
    $2.99
    Comprar
    • Remove the seven screws securing the logic board:

    • One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

    • Two 2.1 mm standoff screws

    • One 2.0 mm standoff screw with a large head

    • One 2.0 mm standoff screw with a small head

    • Two 2.2 mm standoff screws

    • Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screw bit and a driver handle.

    • In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

    I did not have the 2.0mm standoff screw (closest to the edge of the phone by the power button). The bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector (Step 15) was screwed in to this spot.

    Simon Ragona III - Responder

    I experienced the same.

    Michael Moreno - Responder

    BEWARE. THIS GUIDE IS WRONG. Whoever did this guide is obviously an amateur who doesn't know what they're doing. The standoffs are vastly different from each other in width and design. There is a SPECIFIC standoff for the top "yellow" circle which connects to the ground clip.

    DO NOT REMOVE THESE SCREWS / STANDOFFS WITHOUT CAREFULLY DOCUMENTING EACH INDIVIDUAL LOCATION AND SCREW

    FIX YOUR GUIDE!!!

    Pablo Edvardo - Responder

    Pablo is right, there IS a visible difference between the two yellow 2.0 mm standoff screws - make a note of which is which (label, drawing, etc.) when you’re at this step.

    Christopher Villavicencio -

    1) The fact iFixit marks tho DIFFERENT SCREWS as IDENTICAL i s a big shame. Really guys, DO go an extra mile and account screws thoroughly. Luckily other screws seem to be marked correctly

    2) since iFixit was lazy to compose a build-up instruction:

    better take care of connecting the ports BEFORE you screw tightly the board to the rest of the phone! This gives you some degree of freedom to move the board a bit to be able to click the ports in without destroying them -- its especially the case for the connection with the lightning board, where the chip might be misaligned by a fraction of a millimetre in the direction along the chip even if you placed the lightning chip perfectly in terms of those two pins mentioned below -- you just won't have enough length of the flat cable to align the port (because the flatness and shortness of the cable blocks the movement in the direction you need to align) and risk pressing flat the tiny contacts.

    Taras Halaida - Responder

    Hi all.

    Thank you for leaving your comments! We have changed the guide accordingly to show two separate screws with larger and smaller screw heads. Going forward, you can always directly edit the guides if you have any improvements—we are a wiki after all!

    Alex Diaz-Kokaisl - Responder

  43. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 43, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 43, imagem 2 %32
    • Use the point of a spudger to push the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.

  44. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 44, imagem 1 %32
    • Use the point of a spudger to carefully de-route the two coaxial cables from the small metal clip holding them to the logic board.

    The cables need to be popped out of the clip by moving them up.

    Evan O - Responder

    Remember to differentiate between the two coaxial cables, its hard to tell during reassembly which is which

    Alan Chen - Responder

    so which is which ?

    CGG - Responder

    The top coax (nearest the battery connector) leads to the WiFi Diversity Antenna on the speaker assembly. ⏎
    The other coax is for the secondary cell antenna, part of the lightning assembly. Be sure to reassemble them to the right sockets

    CGG - Responder

  45. iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 45, imagem 1 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 45, imagem 2 %32 iPhone 7 Plus Logic Board Replacement: passo 45, imagem 3 %32
    • Lift the logic board from the bottom edges and slide it toward the bottom of the iPhone to remove it.

    • Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

    • During reassembly, note the position of the black grounding clip at the top right edge of the logic board, near the rear cameras. The logic board should slide underneath the clip.

    is very nice, I follow them and I really like them

    Juan Jose - Responder

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

102 outras pessoas executaram este guia.

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20 comentários

Helo! Where can I buy motherboard for iPhone 7+ that can be activated? Price?

Dario - Responder

Can we use iphone 7+ 32gb board to a iphone 7+ 128 GB

Ali Mirsa -

You can purchase motherboard from this website.

https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-i...

Jose Palma -

It's really tough to install Board component but this guideline really helpful..

Flica Hussey - Responder

how can you determine the different stand of screws

joe kelly - Responder

organize your screws and look at the %#*@ guide

Crystal Haugh -

Is there a reason why I swapped the motherboard of a Verizon iPhone 7 plus onto a Sprint iPhone 7 plus but now boot ups take 5+ minutes and the phone displays “accessory may not be supported” when connected to a charger?

Pablo villacis - Responder

The reason might be because you haven’t connect finger print (home button) into the motherboard.

kabore -

did you ever find a fix to your problem?

Francesco Digiorgio -

I am trying to find the correct motherboard for my iPhone 7 Plus (256GB) with finger print ID.  Does anyone know where to find the proper/correct motherboard?  Thank you!

Antoine - Responder

I am trying to find the correct motherboard to purchase for my 256GB iPhone 7 Plus  (with finger print ID).  does anyone know where to get the correct one?  Thanks!

Antoine - Responder

Hi, I need the board for the iPhone 7+ 256GB with the fingertouch (which are paired).

Where did you get yours? can you help me? Did you buy yours?

Can you write directly to raul@miodo.com.ar

Thanks,

R

Raul Miodownik -

and the touch id its work or not ?

D E V - Responder

If the flash is not working on the iPhone 7 plus, from which I want to get the logic board out, will it work on the “new” iPhone where I want to put it in, or are these errors connected to the motherboard?

christophw88 - Responder

I have the board, showing red (water damage); however, the battery warms up. If charge, noting else. If need to replace the motherboard, will i lose all the data inside? I’ve also order battery and digitizer, hoping that will do. The top part just above the white dot which turns red (motherboard) near antenna, looks burnt. Help

Levianathis - Responder

Hi, I need the board for the iPhone 7+ 256GB with the fingertouch (which are paired).

Where did you get yours? can you help me?

Can you write directly to raul@miodo.com.ar

Thanks,

R

Raul Miodownik -

peut on mettre la carte mère d’un iphone 7 sur un 7 plus?

Fanny Caillaud - Responder

Very Helpful, thanks!

Antonio Morataya - Responder

My phone was completely black but home button vibrates when pressing on it and itunes could not recognise the device when plugged into it. Now i replaced the front screen and after charging 12hours the phone does not turn on. In this case, does anyone know what is causing the issue?

hin - Responder

I found it is essential to have a magnetic board like the one iFixit sells in order to keep the screws all in order. If you mix them up, you’ll need an accurate digital caliper or a precise analog micrometer to measure the screws for length.

I found the instructions super helpful in completely drying out my iPhone 7Plus after it suffered from a dunking well along in its life. I had replaced the battery myself a year ago, and although I thought I had properly sealed it, it still leaked. I was able to get it dried out and back in order by following these instructions to remove the logic board and then do a heated dry with a blow dryer for five or so minutes on low while monitoring it carefully with my hand and an IR thermometer.

Paul - Responder

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