Introdução

Use this guide to replace a cracked or broken screen in an iPhone 7 Plus. This includes removing the front-facing camera, earpiece speaker, LCD shield plate, and home/Touch ID sensor assembly—all of which must be transferred to your new display. For an easier repair, replace the entire display assembly instead by following this much shorter guide.

In either case, it's important to carefully transfer the original home/Touch ID sensor onto the new display in order for it to function.

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
  • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Take extra care not to expose your iPhone to liquid damage after completing your repair.

  • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.

pargoff - Responder

The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.

Jeff Suovanen -

@jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.

Ben Meinhart - Responder

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass. Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered. This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
  • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.

  • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

  • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

  • If the broken glass makes it difficult to get a suction cup to stick in the next few steps, try folding a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lifting the display with that instead.

Tape doesn’t hold. suction cup doesn’t work. Tape folded over doesn’t work as a handle. I’ve used 3m’ s Gorilla duct tape. The glass is so shattered I cant get a point started to remove the glass. Phone has been in an otter box for years. dropped it and shattered glass while replacing case. Now what?

Martin Speedy - Responder

When all else fails, you can superglue your suction cup (or tape) to the display, wait for it to cure, and pull.

Jeff Suovanen -

Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
  • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

  • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

How long should I use a hairdryer for?

Warren Binder - Responder

I used it until it was hot to the touch but not too hot where you burn yourself.

gczarny -

Apply a suction cup to the lower half  of the front panel, just above the home button. Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
  • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

Adicionar comentário

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case. Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap. The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.
  • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

  • While pulling up on the suction cup, twist the spudger to widen the opening between the screen and rear case.

Adicionar comentário

Insert the flat end of the spudger between the front panel and the rear case at the lower left edge of the iPhone. Slide the spudger up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place. Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.
  • Insert the flat end of the spudger between the front panel and the rear case at the lower left edge of the iPhone.

  • Slide the spudger up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

  • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

Adicionar comentário

Remove the spudger from the left side of the phone and insert the flat end into the bottom right corner. Slide the spudger up the right edge of the phone to the top corner, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.
  • Remove the spudger from the left side of the phone and insert the flat end into the bottom right corner.

  • Slide the spudger up the right edge of the phone to the top corner, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

Adicionar comentário

Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone. Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are delicate ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.
  • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

    • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are delicate ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

Adicionar comentário

Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel. Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.
  • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Adicionar comentário

Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive. Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.
  • Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

Adicionar comentário

Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case. Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
  • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

  • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

Adicionar comentário

Remove the following four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board:
  • Remove the following four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.6 mm screw

Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.

u204863 - Responder

Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.

Jeff Suovanen -

The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?

shannon caldwell - Responder

At first I think I was being too careful and was getting no where. I got better results by pressing down on the screwdriver with more pressure while turning and those little screws came right out.

LadyTech - Responder

I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?

Katherine Monday - Responder

@katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Remove the lower display cable bracket. Remove the lower display cable bracket.
  • Remove the lower display cable bracket.

I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

chris west - Responder

If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.

Scott Havard - Responder

Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone. Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone.
  • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

Adicionar comentário

Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step. Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board. To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
  • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

  • Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

  • To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

  • If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

Talon - Responder

Remove the three tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector: One 1.3 mm screw Two 1.0 mm screws
  • Remove the three tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • Two 1.0 mm screws

  • Remove the bracket.

Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

chris west - Responder

I know your comment was posted a long time ago but just in case someone else has the same problem, the only difference in the screws are the lengths. The ends are the same.

mcr4u2 - Responder

Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board. This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.
  • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

Adicionar comentário

Remove the display assembly.

Adicionar comentário

Remove the five Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker bracket:
  • Remove the five Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker bracket:

    • Two 1.8 mm screws

    • One 2.3 mm screw

    • One 2.4 mm screw

    • One 2.8 mm screw

Adicionar comentário

Remove the earpiece speaker bracket.
  • Remove the earpiece speaker bracket.

Adicionar comentário

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the front-facing camera from its housing. Gently bend the camera ribbon cable to the side to clear the way to the earpiece speaker underneath. Gently bend the camera ribbon cable to the side to clear the way to the earpiece speaker underneath.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the front-facing camera from its housing.

  • Gently bend the camera ribbon cable to the side to clear the way to the earpiece speaker underneath.

Adicionar comentário

Remove the earpiece speaker.
  • Remove the earpiece speaker.

Adicionar comentário

Gently fold the camera and attached ribbon cable toward the bottom of the iPhone to allow access to the components underneath. Gently fold the camera and attached ribbon cable toward the bottom of the iPhone to allow access to the components underneath.
  • Gently fold the camera and attached ribbon cable toward the bottom of the iPhone to allow access to the components underneath.

Adicionar comentário

The sensors on this step are fragile. To increase your chances of removing them without damage, use your iOpener or hair dryer to apply heat to the upper portion of the display before you proceed. Alternatively, add a drop or two of isopropyl alcohol and let it penetrate under the sensors before you pry them up. Slide a spudger under the proximity sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.
  • The sensors on this step are fragile. To increase your chances of removing them without damage, use your iOpener or hair dryer to apply heat to the upper portion of the display before you proceed. Alternatively, add a drop or two of isopropyl alcohol and let it penetrate under the sensors before you pry them up.

  • Slide a spudger under the proximity sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.

Adicionar comentário

Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the ambient light sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing. Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the ambient light sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing. Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the ambient light sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.
  • Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the ambient light sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.

Adicionar comentário

Insert the sharp edge of an iFixit opening tool underneath the camera assembly's flex cable, on the opposite side from the front-facing camera. If necessary, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the top portion of the display and soften the adhesive securing the flex cable. Pry up to separate the edge of the flex cable from the back of the display.
  • Insert the sharp edge of an iFixit opening tool underneath the camera assembly's flex cable, on the opposite side from the front-facing camera.

    • If necessary, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the top portion of the display and soften the adhesive securing the flex cable.

  • Pry up to separate the edge of the flex cable from the back of the display.

prying this up is sometimes difficult. I always keep a new one on hand incase. they are not expensive. if you separate the black strip, prox sensor will not work.

Lee Attaway - Responder

what if the black tape and the flex got seperated, is there a solution to get the earspeaker work gain? coz i tried putting the adhesive tape again behind the flex but still no luck.. what can i do?

Mac -

i think this just happened to me…

william seiji marini - Responder

Insert the point of a spudger underneath the same portion of the flex cable that you separated in the previous step. Continue separating the remainder of the flex cable, pushing the spudger toward the strip of circular gold earpiece speaker contacts. Continue separating the remainder of the flex cable, pushing the spudger toward the strip of circular gold earpiece speaker contacts.
  • Insert the point of a spudger underneath the same portion of the flex cable that you separated in the previous step.

  • Continue separating the remainder of the flex cable, pushing the spudger toward the strip of circular gold earpiece speaker contacts.

Adicionar comentário

Continue using your spudger to carefully separate the last of the flex cable from the back of the display.
  • Continue using your spudger to carefully separate the last of the flex cable from the back of the display.

Adicionar comentário

Remove the front camera and sensor cable assembly. A piece of black double-sided insulating tape lies between the display and three rows of copper contacts on the back of the camera/sensor cable. It may remain stuck to the display, or it may come off with the cable. When reassembling, verify the tape is in place, or else cover the contacts on the back of the cable with an appropriate tape, such as Kapton tape.
  • Remove the front camera and sensor cable assembly.

  • A piece of black double-sided insulating tape lies between the display and three rows of copper contacts on the back of the camera/sensor cable. It may remain stuck to the display, or it may come off with the cable.

    • When reassembling, verify the tape is in place, or else cover the contacts on the back of the cable with an appropriate tape, such as Kapton tape.

Is there instruction on how to bend the cable?

Steven Martinez - Responder

You really need that tape, If still no sound after placing the tape in place, then you might have damaged the flex cable. Worthy to mention, that some replacement screens come without the ambient light filter (white film seem on the screen) and without the plastic brackets for the camera and proximity sensor, which in those cases, you would have to transfer those parts to the new screen. Also in some screens, the holes for the proximity sensor are not properly done and you might end up with a non-working proximity sensor. In those cases, just remove the pain with the spugger where the proximity sensor locates (removes the black paint) and then add some black permanent marker over it to make it black. That way, it will look pristine form the outside but just thin enough for the proximity sensor to work.

H. Alves - Responder

I had issues regarding sound after reassembling the iPhone. I initially used kapton tape. I could hear the caller but they could hear me. I checked every avenue I thought of, I recorded myself speaking which was fine so there was nothing wrong with the mic. I ended up heating the black insulator and transferring it and reseating the earpiece and flex assembly. After a couple attempts the mic was restored to normal operation.

Paul Wilson - Responder

Remove the four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor:
  • Remove the four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor:

    • One 1.1 mm screw

    • Three 1.3 mm screws

Why is the screw over top of the home button so difficult to get out… has anyone else experienced this..? This is twice now I've struggled to get that screw

Brandon - Responder

The screw to the left holding the heatshield is never mentioned in this guide

Beerbo - Responder

No reason to touch that screw unless you’re removing the shield—in which case, this step instructs you to remove it.

Jeff Suovanen -

So I stripped the screw furthest to the left, how can i possibly remove it now? Can I just buy a new LCD shield and home bracket button and screw and will that work just fine on the new screen replacement? this stripped screw of mine is not coming out

Bryan Ferrer - Responder

That should work, as long as you can still get the home button/sensor out without damage. For removing a stripped screw this size, I’d probably try supergluing it to the driver—or else just drill the top of the screw off and then remove the bracket, leaving the screw shaft embedded in the old display. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

I used the same driver for all of these screws. Had to apply a lot of pressure before trying to unscrew it and it was fine.

jessica harlow - Responder

This is wrong, the size you need is Y00 for the 1.1mm screws and Y000 for the 1.3mm one.

Robert Clark - Responder

The heads on those screws are identical. I’ve never had any trouble using a Y000 for all of them. Use whatever works for you I guess.

Jeff Suovanen -

I’ve managed to strip the screw on the right hand side - not the far right, just right of the home button. Any ideas on how to get it out without glue (I don’t have any)

Christie Ellen - Responder

My screwdriver is too big to get out the screws

Coolinee Kerman - Responder

My eyesight isn’t what it used to be. That said, the replacement screen that arrived already had screws in the two outside positions. It took me a minute to figure this out when I was trying to install the home button. I couldn’t figure out why the screws weren’t going in. I thought the holes were filled or something… Nope. screws. Took them out and used them.. all good.

Critter - Responder

Remove the bracket that secures the home/Touch ID sensor.
  • Remove the bracket that secures the home/Touch ID sensor.

Adicionar comentário

Pry under the left edge of the home button cable connector to disconnect it from its socket. If the entire connector begins to flip up without separating, press down on the cable at the top edge of the connector with the flat of your spudger, while simultaneously prying up the left edge of the connector. Be very careful not to damage the cable or connector, or you will permanently disable the sensor.
  • Pry under the left edge of the home button cable connector to disconnect it from its socket.

    • If the entire connector begins to flip up without separating, press down on the cable at the top edge of the connector with the flat of your spudger, while simultaneously prying up the left edge of the connector. Be very careful not to damage the cable or connector, or you will permanently disable the sensor.

Well, I just damaged the home button connector in step 31. It is completely off the cable. What now? Can I buy this home button?

LadyTech - Responder

I think you can not do it because your phone is not identify for new cable.

Ali Alsaed - Responder

Carefully pry up the underlying connector and move it out of the way of the home/Touch ID cable. It's very easy to damage your iPhone during this step. Work slowly and take care where you pry with your tool. If you damage the Touch ID hardware, it can only be replaced by Apple.
  • Carefully pry up the underlying connector and move it out of the way of the home/Touch ID cable.

    • It's very easy to damage your iPhone during this step. Work slowly and take care where you pry with your tool. If you damage the Touch ID hardware, it can only be replaced by Apple.

    • If the connector doesn't pry up easily, use a hair dryer or iOpener to heat and soften the adhesive securing the connector, and then try again.

    • Don't try to detach the connector completely—simply flip it up slightly so that the underlying home/Touch ID sensor cable can be removed.

Adicionar comentário

Heating the area around the home/Touch ID sensor will help soften the adhesive holding its delicate cable in place, making it easier to remove safely.
  • Heating the area around the home/Touch ID sensor will help soften the adhesive holding its delicate cable in place, making it easier to remove safely.

  • Flip the display assembly over. Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the display for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

Adicionar comentário

Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel. Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel. Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel.
  • Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel.

It cannot be stressed enough that this is the one part of this repair that you can’t screw up. Anything else you’ll deal with during this repair can be easily replaced (The screen, and the sensor/microphone/camera assembly). Tearing this cable means an expensive trip to the apple store. or a very unhappy customer if you’re doing this for someone. Heat is your friend. I don’t even use a spudger or a guitar pick for this one, I use a new playing card to pull this up. Even with the card, you have to be careful. The edge of the playing card can nick the cable if you’re not careful to get it under the ribbon cable. If the adhesive isn’t soft enough for the card to get it up, apply more heat. Again, you can’t screw this step up. It’s all or nothing.

Spartan99 - Responder

Remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly by lifting it through the front side of the display.
  • Remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly by lifting it through the front side of the display.

  • To reinstall, first feed the cable through the hole in the front of the display.

  • Your replacement part may come with an extra Y000 screw already installed right of the Home Button. Remove the unnecessary screw so that you can reinstall the home button bracket.

True to this picture, the home button can only be removed (and put back in place) through the front of the LCD assembly.

Talon - Responder

Very good comment Talon. That was the first thing I was looking for here. There should be a bullet point in step 24 - Carefully remove home button from front of display being careful not to damage cable.

Tracey - Responder

Had an issue when putting the screen back on, the side where the cables attach would not sit flush. At first I thought the cables were pushing the screen up. Turned out to be the battery cable shield was just a fraction too far down toward home button. After loosening screws, nudging it up slightly and screwing back in, the screen sat flush as it should. In case anyone else has same issue.

jbarry - Responder

Peel back the upper, rectangular portion of the LCD shield plate sticker to separate it from the flex cable underneath. You don't need to remove the sticker completely unless you intend to replace it. You don't need to remove the sticker completely unless you intend to replace it.
  • Peel back the upper, rectangular portion of the LCD shield plate sticker to separate it from the flex cable underneath.

    • You don't need to remove the sticker completely unless you intend to replace it.

Adicionar comentário

Use a Y000 driver to remove three 1.1 mm screws from one side of the display EMI shield.
  • Use a Y000 driver to remove three 1.1 mm screws from one side of the display EMI shield.

Adicionar comentário

Use a Y000 driver to remove two more 1.1 mm screws from the other side of the EMI shield.
  • Use a Y000 driver to remove two more 1.1 mm screws from the other side of the EMI shield.

Adicionar comentário

Remove the 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the EMI shield near the bottom of the display.
  • Remove the 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the EMI shield near the bottom of the display.

Adicionar comentário

Lift the LCD shield plate while pressing down on the flex cable it surrounds. Feed the flex cable through the cutout in the LCD shield plate, being careful not to snag it.
  • Lift the LCD shield plate while pressing down on the flex cable it surrounds.

  • Feed the flex cable through the cutout in the LCD shield plate, being careful not to snag it.

What if the black rectangle part that goes around the little silver rectangul is broken

Brittany Jackson - Responder

I broke one. It just would not go back around the part, so I just put it around what I could and the phone worked fine. I’m replacing the panel on another one right now that someone else had already replaced, (the girl broke her screen again) and the little black part was just laid on top of the silver part and it worked fine. Don’t have a clue why that little black rectangle is even there. It doesn’t appear to be needed.

mcr4u2 - Responder

Remove the LCD shield plate.
  • Remove the LCD shield plate.

Adicionar comentário

Only the LCD and digitizer assembly remains.
  • Only the LCD and digitizer assembly remains.

Adicionar comentário

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

74 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Jeff Suovanen

Member since: 06-08-2013

166.188 reputação

423 Guides authored

Equipe

iFixit Membro de iFixit

Community

113 Membros

5.988 Guides authored

Step 14 Pic# 3 the second cable damaged , what can i do ?!

Ameed Bader - Responder

If you damaged only the cable and nothing else, replacing the display should solve the problem—it will come with new cables attached.

Jeff Suovanen -

Replaced the screen, Touch ID works however the home button doesn’t. Look at the cables and they look connected properly. Any ideas?

James Turner - Responder

is it possible to remove the front glass from the LCD?

pinna.daniele - Responder

Hi there can you let me know this lcd screen for original apple or aftermarket ? Thanks

Hai - Responder

Is the replacement screen for the iPhone 7s Plus the same as the 7 Plus in regards to connectors and cable locations or are they different like the 5 and 5s?

Christie Eddings - Responder

There is no iPhone 7s Plus. There is the 7, 7 Plus and the 8 Plus….

H. Alves -

For anyone performing hardware exchanges, there is a free app on Apple store called Dr. Phone that can be used to test the several hardware components… Nice to do before closing it up..

H. Alves - Responder

Has anyone else had trouble getting the Y000 screws out from the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor? All other Y000 came out no problem. These are fighting me. The driver seems to be spinning in place as if too big. Follow up question. If I strip these screws, any idea how to get them out then?

jferguson757 - Responder

I'm having the same issue. I stripped out the home button screw help please!

Chris Ellis - Responder

Step 16 remember to not put the cable back upside down -.-

onikristy - Responder

Excellent guide. Thank you very very much.

roycomp10 - Responder

Adicionar comentário

Visualizar Estatísticas:

Últimas 24 horas: 207

Últimos 7 dias: 1,304

Últimos 30 dias: 5,601

Todo: 70,596