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Introdução
Use este guia se o seu conjunto de display novo já vem instalado com o conjunto de câmera frontal e sensores e a blindagem EMI do display. Tudo o que você tem que fazer é remover o conjunto de display antigo e mover o botão home para o novo conjunto de display.
Se o seu display de reposição não inclui aquelas peças, siga para a versão mais longa deste guia aqui.
Em qualquer caso, é importante transferir o botão home original para o novo display para que o Touch ID (sensor de impressão digital) funcione.
Você também pode usar este guia para substituir o suporte do cabo do display.
O que você precisa
Vídeo de Apresentação
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Remova os dois parafusos Pentalobe de 3,4 mm dispostos em ambos os lados do conector Lightning.
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Aplique uma ventosa de sucção no canto inferior esquerdo do conjunto do display.
take out screws first!!
Make sure you use the right screw driver tip for i phone 6s Plus, which is the P-2. If the screw will not come off once is lose, try using a magnet.
My cracked screen prevented the suction cup from sealing. SOLUTION: With a piece of clear packing tape across the screen, the suction cup will seal and pull.
I broke my iphone screen in the first step!
Ok - just got my battery replacement kit and even got the opening kit for added insurance just in case. Settled down to startwork after carefully cleaning my (immaculate) screen - no scratches or anything, with rubbing alcohol, removing screws and warming with a hair dryer, only to find the suction cup provided in the kit is worse than useless! It won’t stick to the screen well at all. When it does - it pops off at the lightest pull :-( Now what do I do to get this started?!
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Puxe para cima a ventosa de sucção empregando força firme e constante, a fim de deixar uma pequena fenda entre o painel dianteiro e a estrutura traseira.
I had a shattered front glass panel so I could not get the suction cup to seal properly. I tried a couple of different ways to get good suction but to no avail. I eventually used a Stanley knife to pry up the corner so I could get the spudger into the opening.
A really high quality packing tape over the entire screen will usually be enough to use the suction cup on a shattered screen.
djwooten -
This was by FAR the most difficult part of this whole thing. I confess the spudger was not cutting it so I used a butter knife to get into the small opening first, then used the spudger to go around the screen.
Hey everyone, if you never have done this part before be aware there is an extremely strong adhesive around the lip of the screen and once again is extremely strong. I had to get a friend to insert the pry/pick into the small gap while I used one hand to brace the phone down and the other to pull the suction cup without it digging into my hand. Go slow, it took me 5 tries because I didn’t realize how strong the adhesive was.
I also had a badly cracked lower screen - that glass was actually threatening to pull off the phone in chunks during this step, even with packing tape. Resorted to @j2arch’s tip and inserted a utility knife vertically into the seam between the display and phone body. Was able to lever the glass enough to get the spudger in there.
I have replaced sevrel screens for my sister in law and my niece. The packing tape has worked every time and that’s with it Shattered and pieces already falling out. You have to make sure the packing tape goes to the edge of the screen but doesn’t touch the frame. I have the plier like screen remover and use that it is much easier to remove the screen by your self with that tool. I also have the little finger suction cup that comes with the kit here. I bought the plier suction cup tool When I had to replace the screen that had the pieces of the screen missing and I don’t regret spending the extra money for that it has made a world of difference. I do this as a hobby it’s not a job for me. The electric divide repair kit from Lowe’s is also a very good kit to help. If you’re only going to do it once the kit that comes with the package is a great deal from ifixit. Well worth the money to spend the little extra to get the kit if you all ready don’t have the tools.
If you try to use the spunger near the home button and try to pry it can crack your screen. This happened to me.
Same thing happened to me. This should be a big warning in these steps. If you have a small to moderate crack in you screen, but you weren’t planning on replacing the screen at the same time as another repair inside, there’s a risk of damaging the screen further and making it inoperable.
DW7ACCT -
I found it easiest to use two suction cups. One on the front as directed, and a second one on the back. Give the spudger to your assistant, and have them slip it in place while you pull the display from the case.
I gave up with the suction cup as it wasn't working for me with a cracked screen. Having heated the bottom of the phone with a hair dryer with a high heat for a good minute or so, I used a safety scraper (essentially a razor blade in a holder) along the bottom of the phone to separate the screen from the body of the phone. I used the scraper vertically between the bottom of the screen and the phone body and levered it sufficiently so that I could fit the spudger between the screen and the phone body. My experience when I first used the spudger around the frame was that the cracks in the screen caused the screen glass to separate from the frame, so I had to re-do it and ensure that the screen frame was separated from the phone body.
Safety scraper:
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O local mais apropriado para desprender é o entalhe no painel dianteiro, que se encontra acima da entrada do fone de ouvido.
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Enquanto exerce força com a ventosa de sucção, insira a ponta plana de uma espátula na fenda, diretamente acima da entrada do fone de ouvido.
This was by far the hardest part of the repair for me. Getting leverage while finding a way to prod with a spudger is a challenge in coordination. I used a second spudger with point holding the phone down by the headphone jack, with the other end of the spudger anchored to my desk.
For me this was the most time consuming task. I used a hair dryer for heating. I found a very tight adhesive. For a moment I thought of abandoning my efforts and take the assembly to a professional repairman. But as they say, patience is a virtue.
After fiddling for about 20 minutes, I achieved a barely noticable opening. So I decided to change the strategy. Instead of applying heat all over the base, I preceeded with small steps with heat concentrated near the opening. I applied intense heat only for about 15 to 20 seconds and immediately working with spudger. It took about an hour to completely open the case. It worked.
Thanks for reading.
- Mr Gamma
I also struggled with this step. Lots of heat, 3 different suction cups, I finally could see a small gap... much too thin to fit even a piece of paper into. A video on another site said it was the easy way. I used a sharp craft knife barely into the seam between metal and glass and pried slightly. And it started up. Still a pain freeing the rest of the adhesive. Perhaps the adhesive really sets up over the course of 5 years? I have it hinged open now, so onto the next steps.
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Gire a espátula para abrir a fenda entre o conjunto do painel dianteiro e a estrutura traseira.
just changed the screen, but due to the tape along side the screen , it is best to heat a little so the glue losses and you can get the screen off better, like indicated
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Puxe para cima o pino localizado sobre a ventosa de sucção para removê-la do display.
Remember to apply the screen gasket on the re-assemble. The gasket is provided in the kit but not mentioned here on the instructions.
There’s a link to the entire gasket replacement procedure in Step 21.
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Segure com cuidado o conjunto do display e eleve-o para abrir o telefone, usando os clipes na parte superior do painel dianteiro como uma dobradiça.
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Abra o display a um ângulo de cerca de 90º e apoie-o em algo que o sustente enquanto você está trabalhando no telefone.
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Engate uma faixa de elástico para fixar seguramente o display enquanto você trabalha. Isso previne uma tensão indevida nos cabos do display.
if the display cables are damaged how can you tell ?
In theory, I like the idea of propping up the screen with a rubber band and box/soda can like this, but after ripping the FaceTime camera cable twice, I realize that this method puts too much stress on the cable because it places the screen so far back. Even in this photo, you can see that the cable is taut. I’d recommend just holding the screen with your free hand to put the least amount of stress on that cable as possible.
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Remova os seguintes parafusos Phillips que seguram o suporte do conector da bateria à placa lógica:
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Um parafuso de 2,9 mm
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Um parafuso de 2,3 mm
FYI - I used some blue painters tape wrapped around a piece of cardboard to hold the screws and brackets in place, in order, so they did not get lost. Some of those screws are MICROSCOPIC so be careful!
I also suggest having very good lighting, even a camping headlight for hands-free well lit work space. You will thank me later :-)
Use the bit labeled “PH000”.
PH000 bit just wants to free-spin in the 2.3 mm screw. no bite in the head at all. had no difficulty removing the 2.9 mm screw with the same Phillips. had to abandon battery replacement effort.
For this part, neither PH000 or Y000 worked. Technically, it’ll set you back 31$ because you will need the PH00 screwdriver for this part, and the part where you need to open the screen. They have ph00 screwdrivers in every hardware store and even ifixit.com. just know that they put the wrong screwheads for you
Do not lose track of which hole these screws go into. They MUST be put back into the correct hole that they came out of. If not, you will get the dreaded “long screw damage” on the mainboard, and that will be the end of the show.
Just remember where these screws go, and it will be fine.
Ended up employing a Philips #0 from a regular jeweler/precision kit on the 2.3mm screw. Bits seem a bit off for this step.
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Remova o suporte do conector da bateria.
Does it matter if the brackets arent put back in the phone? I bought a used phone and brackets are missing. Thanks!
Auch die Abdeckung ist angeklebt. Also mit etwas Vorsicht und Geduld rangehen.
If you have forgotten your High School German -
The cover is also glued. So take some care and patience.
My bracket actually has a black wire connected on the underside that is attached to the metal bracket (with screw) below it in the picture. I decided to leave it on and just move it to the side.
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Incline o conector para trás para garantir que não haja contato involuntário e que o iPhone não ligue enquanto você está trabalhando nele.
When putting the new battery in, make sure to line up the plug and not to the top of the battery… our battery was smaller so the plug would NOT have lined up if we used the top of the battery. ALSO, the plug was NOT 90 degrees so we had to finagle the plug. Also, make sure there is a clear CLICK when you plug in the connector or it may not work. Ours went in but guess didn’t go far enough so we had to take the screen off and push it harder until we heard the “click” then it worked fine.
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Remova os seguintes parafusos Phillips:
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Três parafusos de 1,3 mm
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Um parafuso de 1,6 mm
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Um parafuso de 3,0 mm
I really don't see value in removing screen use box and rubber band keep at 90 degrees.
I leave screen on as well for this. - Tho I prefer a 45 degree lean.
Thor -
I just changed my battery and also left the screen attached. I was lucky enough to get all 3 adhesive battery strips out clean so I didn’t have a struggle with the battery coming out. If I was going to need to get rough with it I was going to take the screen off at that point.
To keep track of screws, draw a quick outline of the display cable bracket/cover, with five dots where screws should be. Drop the screws on the corresponding dot. Helps if you use magnet pad.
Better yet, print out the pictures from the iFixit website, and use clear tape (“Scotch tape”) to TAPE the screws onto the place in the picture where they belong.
Tom -
Which screwdriver from the kit do I use for which screw?
I made a mistake and unscrewed the screw just north north west of the one circled in yellow. Of course I lost the screw. Can anyone give me any guidance about this? what does the wire connected to it do? What is the size of the screw, in case I have to replace it?
P.S. This is another reason to consider the possibility of NOT removing the screen just to replace the battery: removing the screen presents a additional possible headache, especially for people like me with bad eyesight who probably shouldn’t be doing this in the first place.
It is a 1.4 mm Phillips screw holding the NFC bracket in place.
I didn’t think this was necessary, bit I see it relieves stress on the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector; I did not disconnect the display connector nor remove the display screen.
I second this finding. I too did not remove the screws nor the bracket. The cables look a bit stretched, but certainly not strained.
-Gamma
This step of separating the two parts of the phone deserves careful consideration. In my case, I had propped up the display assembly with a box and rubber bands. However, only 2 of the battery adhesive strips came off easily. The effort to remove the battery with the display assembly attached was not a good move on my part. I jarred the ear speaker cable and after reassembly I had no camera or working ear speaker. Taking off these 5 screws and removing the three cables is not difficult. My suggestion: is you have ANY trouble removing the 3 battery adhesive strips, STOP, separate the two components, and then continue with the battery removal. Don’t struggle removing the battery with the display assembly attached. (I replaced the ear speaker cable, and all is working now)
Thanks for this tip! I am having a really hard time removing this plate because one of the screw heads are stripped. So I’ll try removing the battery adhesive strips first to see if I can get the battery out without removing the screen.
Use dixie cups and label them for each part you take out. You can stack the dixie cups to keep them in order.
OMG…. SO excited! It works! Seems that missing screw wasn’t an issue. The reason I’m so excited is, I’m a senior and have bever attempted anything like this before and was worried I’d mess it up, or it just wouuldn’t work for whatever reason. I know I never would have tried if it weren’t for finding this site, the great service, parts to do it and the videos/guides. Thank you so much ifixit. :-)
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Use uma ferramente de abertura de plástico para desconectar o conector da câmera frontal e sensores.
FYI, in the video she uses the spudger for this but I think either one will work.
I don’t recommend using the spudger for this as you can do more damage that way. I scratched the black square thing underneath.
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Use uma ferramenta de abertura de plástico para desconectar o cabo do digitalizador, levantando-o em sentido vertical de seu soquete localizado sobre a placa lógica.
“When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage. “
The following note above was so helpful. I was speeding through the process of getting things back together, since it seemed easy to connect the digitizer cable, but I kept pushing it in the middle and I wouldn’t connect. Until I read through this step and realized it was easier if I would’ve connected one side and then the opposite side right after.
Don’t be too shy when pushing the ends of the digitizer connector back to place. If it does not connect properly, you might face the “half backlight” problem, even if you did not kill any LCD filter. Also check carefully, that you don’t clamp parts of the sticky sealing material placed around the connector inside the connection area.
This part was a very frustrating experience for me. I thought that my replacement screen was just poor quality, as it worked when it wanted to work. Pressing home/power repeatedly sometimes brought it back, charging to 100% also brought it back. The actual problem was that it is very easy to get some of the gasket material caught in the connector, which I couldn’t see until I used my jeweler's loupe. I used 91% alcohol to carefully clean all of this off until all pins were shiny, and it took about 6 tries to get it right. However, the screen’s been running well for 2 days now. I already bought another screen replacement which I have for a spare as it was 100% not the problem.
I followed all the steps, so the sound is missed. What could be happened? thanks a lot. Fabio Balbino
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Use uma ferramenta de abertura de plástico para desconectar o cabo de dados do display levantando-o em sentido vertical de seu soquete localizado na placa lógica.
How much is this to replace?
And where could I buy from?
You can buy these at iFixit: iPhone 6s LCD and Digitizer - Original LCD
After finishing the assembly I got the message “Touch ID cannot be enabled on this phone”. I found this connector was loose. Plugged it back in and that fixed it.
Thanks for the tip. Same thing happened to me, some leftover adhesive was in the way!
Always make sure to disconnect the battery before you do any work on the phone replacing any parts the digitizer or anything. And before you start make sure the phone is turned off you don’t want any power surges. If you also have a static electricity bracelet that also is a plus to use but isn’t a necessity just a nice piece of mind. Some cases you do need to use one so you don’t discharge static electricity to an electrical component and mess it up.
What is the cable and how is it connected/fixed to the motherboard between the bottom socket and the screw hole.
Mine came loose somehow?
I figured out my own question its the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable. But how is it connected/secured to the motherboard?
i pressed on the center of the digitizer connection. and the bottom half of my screen didnt work. i then took that same front panel assembly and tried to install it on another old iphone 6s+ and i had the same issue.
can i still fix it?
what exactly is broken now?
@mynameisoli Honestly this just sounds like a defective screen to me, but it’s hard to say for sure. Look closely at the connector at the end of the ribbon cable and check it for damage. If it’s slightly bent/curved, all the pins won’t make good contact in the socket. You can try bending it back so it lays flat, but you have to be very careful not to damage the connector or contaminate the pins with skin oils, so it’s tricky—and it may be harder to return as “defective” if you mess up the connector. So try this at your own risk. Apart from that, I would just return it and try a different display. Good luck!
The 6s plus screen repair kit i bought has the wrong size cable here on the replacement part. SOL.
I changed the battery on my iPhone and put all together again and charged it. When I pressed the home button the lock screen with my picture appeared and when I pressed it again the screen with the digits from 0 to 9 appeared. I was asked to enter my passcode, but when I did that nothing happened, the phone did not open.
What could be wrong? Is the home screen cable not fully connected or what could be the reason for this?
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Remova o conjunto do display.
For instructions on home button swap out to the new screen you just installed, go here
Do you know whether the adhesive contributes to waterproofing, or just for stability/adhesion?
@kitabel The iPhone 6s case isn’t waterproof, so I don’t think adhesive around the display is contributing anything other than stability. The 6s series does have some water resistance, but it’s mostly internal and not something Apple advertises.
If you have a replacement adhesive for the display, you may need to install it before reconnecting cables to the components. If the adhesive wraps all the way around the display, it will be impossible to install it once the display is reconnected.
These instructions worked great for me. Thank you!
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Remova os dois parafusos Phillips de 1,9 mm que seguram o suporte do botão home.
The new display came with a 1.9mm screw installed (the top left one above). This must be removed before putting back the home button bracket. It took me way too long to realize why I couldn’t thread the old screw back into the hole.
If you bought a screen assembly with a home button but have not ever set up touch ID can you set up touch ID on the new screen’s home button?
The home button and logic board are usually married. So if it’s a new home button paired with the original logic board, the Touch ID won’t work.
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Use a ponta fina de uma espátula para desconectar o cabo do botão home de seu conector localizado no conjunto do display.
Buongiorno,ho cambiato display però adesso non mi funziona touch sul tasto home…cosa potrebbe essere???grazie
ciao, hai risolto? ho sto valutando se cambiare lo schermo appunto per questo motivo, ho letto online che gli schermi non originali danno questo problema
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Prepare uma bolsa térmica de gel iOpener e coloque-a sobre o botão home para amolecer o material adesivo da vedação.
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Usando a ponta de seu dedo, empurre cuidadosamente o conjunto do botão home para cima para continuar a separá-lo do painel dianteiro.
“The gasket is very thin and will tear easily. Apply steady pressure and give it time to separate. “
The note above was very helpful. It really is thin and for one second I thought I punctured a whole through it, so be careful.
I did this on 2 separate phones. The first time, I did it according to directions, and it worked well. However, the adhesive pulled off in the process. On the 2nd phone I used a handwarmer to slightly warm the home button area. (I think an iOpener would work best, but I didn’t have one on hand). With the constant pressure after being heated, the home button assembly came off easily, and the adhesive stayed in place. I’ll definitely use slight heat in the future for this step as it seems to lessen the possibility of damaging the assembly.
I would have liked to see the heating instructions on this page. I only saw it once I re-watched the video as I was having trouble getting the button out. iFixit would have made another sale had it been obvious that the heating pad would come in handy. I ended up using a microwave heating pad instead. Worked fine.
If anyone else is totally caught off guard by the need for heat at this point, the previous mention of a heating pad gave me the idea of heating a wet paper towel in the microwave and sticking it in a plastic bag. Obviously make sure no moisture escapes into the device. Worked fine, and is absolutely necessary: that gasket is VERY delicate.
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Remova o conjunto do botão home.
Make sure you remove any broken glass from around the button edges. Took me a few times to realize it had some glass on it.
I could not believe how EASY this was to repair my phone! Granted, it took me awhile (2 hrs) to replace a camera and a screen, but I was probably overly meticulous about each step, especially making sure the old adhesive was fully removed and the frame was clean. I can imagine, with tolerances being as tight as they are — I could barely see some of the screws! — the slightest lump of glue might have made a smooth placement difficult. But, in the end, it was worth it! Screen looks and works awesome, and so does my camera!
Huge props to you for this detailed guide! Very easy to follow and flawless result! Thank you!
does the home button work after you put it on the new repaired phone?
what about the camera? i don’t see the step moving the old camera over to the new screen
Gasket guys!! How do you properly replace the gasket?? Not shown!!
Friends, take a very, very close look at how the connector on the replacement screen is situated. It rests BEHIND a small L shaped ledge that holds it in place. Once connected to the home button ribbon, you will need to seat it behind the little ledge. Otherwise it will be sitting on top of the ledge, and the metal cover won't fit properly before it is screwed back in place.
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Para montar novamente seu dispositivo, siga estas instruções na ordem inversa.
Para montar novamente seu dispositivo, siga estas instruções na ordem inversa.
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73 comentários
What do you do about the 3D touch?
The 3D Touch sensor should be integrated into the replacement part that you buy. If you check out our display teardown you can see that it's embedded two layers deep in the display assembly, so there are no discrete parts you need to worry about.
And if you replace the home button with a new one the finger sensor usually don't work again
This is because the home button that originally comes with the phone is "married" is married to the phone. This connection can never be returned if home button is broken or replaced. That in turn makes touch id not work because its not coded to the phone. Apple can not remarry phones in case anybody was wondering. Take good care of your home button
Awesome step-by-step guide. You have passed on a huge wealth of information and saved me gobs-o-ca$h! I am indebted to you and will now and forever, patronize your store. Thanks very much! Darrell
I need help on step 16. I got the bag with screws and the plate. I purchase also the Ifixit digital caliper. I can not find the screews. I clean the. plates as normally do, put that on cero(0) and star measures all of it. I got 3.05mm in one. 1.69 on others. ant ideas there. please a little help since with I order that the customer services did not get me help on that area. the plate has 4. three 1.3mm one 1.6mm and one 3.0 mm
Screw measurements in these guides are always rounded to the nearest tenth of a mm, so don't worry about trying to be more exact than that. Manufacturing tolerances and the margin of error on your caliper will make for inconsistent measurements in the hundredths of a mm range.
I'm having an issue. This phone I'm working on was VERY damaged. The screen crumbled off like peanut brittle. When I installed the new screen, I have sound and i Have touch sensitivity, but the LCD won't light up. No picture! Even the broken screen had a picture! What gives?
Matthew Joseph Shaker, I suspect that one of the display connectors isn't seated properly (this has happened to me on more than one occasion). I would re-open the phone, and check the connectors in step 18 through step 20 (I would suspect it is the connector in step 20 not connected properly). Give this is a shot and let us know if that fixes the problem!
Im having an issue i repaired my iphone 6s plus noticed that i left out the little thing that goes with the front facing camera i put that in its place then put everything else back together and now the screen wont come on what could be the problem?
I replaced mine and everything is great except the display has a slight fade from left to right. How do I fix that?
more than any of the other iPhone models, we seem to have customers return their 6s Plus screen replacements claiming touch issues after our repair. we use OEM certified assembly replacements and stick with the same reputable vendors we have used over the years. the returns seem to come in droves. months without a return and then 3-5 returns in one week for a couple weeks in a row. just curious if anyone else has noticed such issue or has an explanation to the phenomenon.
Steve B -
It's a bit unclear, is the adhesive (home button) enough to stick to the new display when i move it over or do i need to replace some part from it to move it over to the new frame ?
Nope, no additional parts to replace. The adhesive just seals the little rubber gasket around the home button in place, preventing water and dust intrusion. The actual home button is held in place by sturdier stuff (the bracket, screws, and the display itself).
If you do not disconnect the battery while doing this can it mess anything up?
Don't skip disconnecting the battery. As a rule of thumb you should never perform electronics repairs while the device is still connected to power. In the case of iPhones, leaving the battery connected while you remove the display cables can blow the backlight circuit; at that point you're no longer in DIY territory and you'll need the help of a microsoldering pro to undo the damage. Can you take shortcuts and get away with it? Sure, sometimes... but disconnecting the battery is easy, so there's really no reason to risk it.
This happened to me. I blew the backlight circuit on the motherboard.
I had the battery connected when plugging in the display cables.
Power was not on so it did not occur to me that it would be a problem.
Expensive mistake.
richlove -
I used a gel heating pad that I microwaved for 2 minutes to remove the Home button. I replaced a screen on an iPhone 6 a few months ago and removing the Home button was the most difficult part of the procedure. I damaged the Home button cable and had to replace that as well. On this repair, I used a gel heating pad that I microwaved for 2 minutes to remove the Home button. The heating pad was very hot, but not unbearable so. I left it on the Home button for about 30 secs and the button and cable came right off, I didn't even have to pry anything off.
Since this was the second time completing this procedure, it took me about 20 minutes from start to finish.
I was repairing an iPhone 6s today, just the 4.7 inch display. I had the battery plugged in while I was doing this. As I plugged in the LCD, I’ve seen smoke rise up. Was it because of the adhesive gasket around the connectors for the LCD & digitizer connectors. That maybe I had accidentally pinch in the adhesive within the connectors or was it because i didn’t disconnected the battery.
Is your phone still working? For your next repair, never forget to detach the battery connector!
Zaim -
Sounds to me like you blew the backlight diode. This is a common problem, and perfectly fixable, but requires board-level repair skills and equipment. Always disconnect the battery before beginning repairs!
so i just replaced screen and battery on 6s plus from what i read can someone confirm that once the screen is replaced touch id will not work before i button this project up
@firefighter709 Touch ID should work just fine after a screen replacement, as long as you carefully transfer your original home button to the new screen without damaging it.
I ran into the same problem and based on information elsewhere - the touchid will NOT work with an aftermarket screen - UNLESS I just have a defective display from iFixit. I have moved the touchid button back to the original cracked screen and NO (0) issues with the touchid using my original Home Button. However when I then disconnect the battery and then move the home button back to the NEW display I purchased on iFixit - then I have the Touch ID NOT being recognized. Everything else works just fine. I have triple checked the connectors and must be doing it correctly if I can put everything back the way it was on the old cracked screen and it works flawlessly — other than having a cracked screen. I am sending this display back to iFixit - very disappointed!!!!! the fact that it works back on the original screen rules everything out but a defective display.
kmj1268 -
So an update on how I corrected this - (BTW - it had to do nothing with a bad connection). I had taken a iTunes backup earlier after I put the cracked screen back with the original home button. Verified that everything worked. Then I went and did a reset -erase all settings on the phone. Then after verifying everything was good. I then did a restore from the iTunes backup taken earlier and then verified everything powered up with all the apps, etc. Once verified, I powered down the phone and then disconnected the battery connection, then removed the cracked screen with working touch id button. Then carefully moved it back over to the new display, triple checking everything, then secured all the connections for the display and attached the backing plate. Then reconnected the battery and backing plate. then powered up the phone - and everything worked correctly. Seems like the working magic was to reset-erase all settings, and then do a restore, and then move the home button. Go figure.
kmj1268 -
How well does the suction cup removal technique work if the display is shattered? Can I still get a decent seal?
I recommend you to put some tape on the screen, so the suction cup can lift the display up
Zaim -
Is there a tutorial with details about the black adhesive seal of the display?
I saw the part for like 6.95 but didn’t find the guidance for the replacement. Can you help?
Hello, i have replaced tie screen the second time, but there is no option for automatic brightness to enable or disable, should t be there ? I have it on iPhone 5S on iPhone4 and on the iPhone8 Plus there it True Tone option … can you help me ?
I had already done soft and hard reset ? Will reinstalling of the iOS help ? I dint find anything about this feature here on the site or in the comments.
After replacing the screen and putting the phone back together, the backlight shines out of the hole where the camera is slightly. You can see it easily just looking at the phone. We bought the whole screen assembly, is there a way to adjust this, or do I need to send the part back for a new one?
Great guide. Followed it and was able to successfully replace the cracked screen. However, now I’m having an issue where there during phone calls, the screen would go dark. As if the pocket sensor is being triggered. Is there a fix?
So I've done a few 6pluses and the ribbon for the home button runs along the heat shield, so keeping the same heat shield and button kept I'd touch intact. However on the 6s pluses it's sandwiched between the digitizer lcd leaving only the heat shield if removed. I did not have luck keeping I'd touch with the 6s even with the original home button and heatshield, was this just an isolated case with mines? I've also heard doing a deep reset might fix it, have yet to try though, any input would be greatly appreciated.
Done, but no wifi afterward. Perhaps due to the struggle to remove the battery after the strips broke.
Update: Nor do I have Bluetooth. I looked at the article on bluetooth and wifi antenna and didn’t see anything that I’d knowingly damaged. Can anyone tell me what the most common cause would be for Bluetooth and wifi not to work after this? I believe it must be the antenna, as the two services do turn on and search for access points and bluetooth devices. The phone is able to connect to my fitbit if held right next to it. TIA.
Figured it out. There is a small RF connector next to the flat ribbon connectors that go up to the screen. It apparently popped off and became wedged under the circuit board when I installed the new battery. I did notice a bit of grey fluff floating around at one point and didn't realize what it was. Should have been wearing magnifiers. Oh well. At least the new screen and battery work fine.
What do I do if neither the ear speaker or the front facing camera work? Everything else is fine: proximity sensor, touch screen, home button, speakerphone speaker, etc. I’ve futzed with the connectors over and over, disassembled and reassembled the front-facing camera and sensor assembly multiple times. I’m afraid I may have damaged the connector for that assembly, can that whole assembly be purchased separately?
Hi, have you found a solution to your problem? Best regards, Felix
Felix -
I have replaced the screen twice both new screens have black spots/black shadowing in the top right corner of the display. I cannot think I’ve been sold two fualty screens by different sellers. Any ideas?
I followed the instructions as precisely as I could with my iFixit replacement screen for my wife’s iPhone.
After doing so, the external speaker is extremely quiet (as in, “useless”), and the TouchID doesn’t work. What connection did I damage, what connection did I not do properly, or is there a possibility that my replacement screen was defective? I presume that it is something that I did that I could maybe redo properly.
Great how to instructions. It was easy to follow and was done in under 15 mins.
what if the home button popped out when i broke the phone and the cables are cut? do i order a screen with a home button?
How do you properly put the display connectors back on the respective sockets without messing up the logic board? I’m stuck on step # 21 (putting it back together) and everytime I move to another connector the other connector pops out and I have to start all over again. This is my first time tearing down an iPhone because my screen went black when I accidentally dropped and vertical lines start appearing on the screen. Can somebody help me please because I don't want to mess up the logic board putting this phone back together?
Make sure the connector is perfectly positioned over the socket, and then press it down. That’s it. For the larger ones, press first on one side, then the other, rather than in the middle. In all cases, make sure the connector is correctly aligned, or you’ll bend the pins and/or damage the socket. If they’re popping out, you probably just haven’t connected them fully. Make sure the sockets are clean; if there’s any dirt or debris blocking the connector, blast it out with some compressed air and try again. If none of that works, you’ve got some kind of hardware problem—either a defective part, or possibly it’s not the right screen for your particular model iPhone.
now my phone is not coming on I put it on the charger and now the screen will did I misplace a connector or something?
*now the screen will not come on did I misplace a connector or something?
Had received a flickering display/no display 6splus today. Replaced the folder and the charging port. The display was back, but seems like the battery is not charging now and continues to toggle automatically between 1%and 9%.The cell is switching off intermittently as well. What could be the issue?
does on the iPhone 6s Plus Screen screen come with 3d touch that will work ?or you have to use from the oem .. cuz my screen itsa broke and my 3d touch also its broken..
The left-top portion of the image (whatever was displayed) was expanded and overlaid on the screen. I suspected a loose connection. I opened up the phone, disconnected and reconnected the connectors and reassembled the phone. The screen was fine for a few minutes but then the problem came back. Any idea how to fix this issue?
It’s mostly the top portion of the image that gets stretched and overlaid.
Just done this, all was going perfect I tested the screen after before closing it down on the new gasket and it worked I turn it back off close the phone up and now it won't turn on. Any suggestions? Tried the power and home buttons together with no luck same goes for charging it. Is there a possibility I damaged the power button when closing up?
Managed to follow the guide, and now I have a working screen again. The hardest part was reconnecting the ribbon cables, especially step 20. Make sure you reconnect both sides. It has to stay in place. I spent like 30 minutes on this single step.
And re. the most difficult part of this replacement: the adhesive “gasket” between the screen and back, not ONE WORD.
There’s an extensive step-by-step guide for the gasket linked in step 23. Replacing the gasket is optional and a lot of people skip it on purpose.
i had to use a pencil eraser to snap the plugs in my fingers are to fat.
Hello,
If it is the front camera, check the connector (step 20). Be sure to disconnect the battery first. Then, disconnect and re-connect the camera connector, and make sure there is nothing in the connector.
At the very last stage when reassembling the phone be careful with the two metal ring sockets that house the bottom screws. They can accidentally bend during the repair and once you get to the point of dipping them into the chassis the can jam and result in a crack on the screen. Happened to me!
On the screen I bougth, I had to move the camera and speaker module over as well. Maby add a link for this operation as a optional step. Good guide, easy to follow. Thumbs up!
Thank you so much. I just got done replacing the screen on my iphone. There was some smoke that came from the one of the display ribbon cables when I tried to plug it in but my phone still works. I don’t have to use a phone with a cracked screen anymore woooo!
Can you replace a iPhone 6s Plus with a iPhone 6 Plus
Dank der Anleitung konnte ich das Display einfach austauschen. Vielen Dank
I change my screen today. Home button great, camera not working and overheating very very much. Any ideas? Thank you!
Just completed a repair on a my iphone 6s plus, screen and camera replacement. however after the install is done one half of the screen in sometimes showing up as highly contrasting and taht changed to a flickering white only happens when starting th ephone with the power button. display is brand new out of the box ifixit part, the plastic shroud the display came in was smashed at the bottom however.
Replaced the screen as per IFIXIT instructions. I need to enter phone PIN number on startup. I can only enter the digits 1, 2 and 3. The screen is unresponsive to anything else. I can't select 'cancel', 'delete' or any other digit. I had to put the cracked screen back and everything on the old screen works apart from the cracked glass. Is this an indication that the replacement part is faulty?
What do you do if you replace the home button and the Touch ID doesn’t work
Make sure you use the correct screw driver tip to remove these screws, which for the iPhone 6s Plus is the P2, otherwise you may strip the tip of the screw making it 10 times harder to remove. If once the screw is lose, it will not come off, use a magnet to remove it.
Miguel Perez - Responder
If I do it by myself, will it damage the water resistant strip?
I know iphone 7 have it ,but I am not sure 6s plus have it.
Ganqian Zhu - Responder
iPhone 6s has an adhesive gasket under the display, similar to the iPhone 7—however, it doesn’t add much in the way of waterproofing since the 6s has non-sealed openings in other parts of the phone. Water resistance on the 6s is primarily internal (seals around the logic board connectors, etc.). It may still be worthwhile to replace the adhesive on the 6s in order to help keep the display firmly seated so it doesn’t move/wobble at all under pressure, but the phone will continue to work fine whether you replace the adhesive or not.
Jeff Suovanen -
Salve nella procedura iniziale di smontaggio display con la ventosa non è menzionato il fatto di scaldare i lati del display per “ammorbidire” la striscia che incolla il display alla scocca.
Non è necessaria la cosa o è consigliabile ?
grazie
Hello, in the initial disassembling procedure with the suction cup, it is not mentioned how to heat the sides of the display to "soften" the strip that glues the display to the body.
Is not the thing necessary or is it advisable?
thank you
Daniele - Responder
You’ve probably received your answer by now but for future enquirers, it does help the process of taking the screen off if heat is applied to the screen. If you have a hair Dryer use that on a low setting to heat the edges of the screen until it’s almost too hot to touch then slip very thin metal spudger around the edge to cut the adhesive. The carefully lift the screen with the help of the spudger and continue with your repair
Cheers Wayne
Wayne Lyell -
How do I know that the Battery has ZERO Charging Cycles on it when it arrives ? Is there a (downside) to Higher Capacity batteries ? It is INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to maintain a “Zero Chinese Products Lifestyle”, so how do I know that I’m not getting a deficient Chinese battery, potentially a refurb. battery ?
integritybuilders - Responder
When your repair is complete, you can use coconutBattery to check your new battery stats and cycle count. (A properly tested battery may already have a charge cycle or two on it.) Avoid higher capacity batteries on iPhones—they’re generally either gimmicks, unsafe, or both. As far as the quality of the part, that comes down to how much you trust your supplier and whether they guarantee the product.
Jeff Suovanen -
So I need to empty the battery to zero percent?
johnpatrickanat - Responder
Below 25%, exactly as stated in the instructions. There’s no benefit to draining it further than that, and in fact you’ll slightly shorten the service life of the battery by draining it all the way to zero. Follow the instructions exactly as written—if you go off-script, you’re a lot more likely to break something.
Jeff Suovanen -
So my screen shattered completely and the screen first had colored lines on tge while right side then it went out completely. If i get an lcd and digitizer replacement I'd that oing to fix it
shellietheleo - Responder
I would initially recommend a well-lit, comfortable area and placing the screws on a white piece of paper with the screw sizes written down (apparently there are magnetic mats, also). Also, I found placing the phone on a paper towel is good so that if a screw is dropped, it will lessen the likelihood of bouncing away.
Lou Fazio - Responder
I recommend that, before you even lift a screwdriver or plug in the hair dryer, get a piece of paper and a pencil. As you unscrew and remove the parts, write the size and/or number for that step and put them by their label. I also used a microscope to identify the screw heads (I'm 75 and my vision is not what it used to be). Laying them out in order, I just went backwards when putting them all back in. I used an anti-static cleaning cloth instead of paper, but I should think they both will work.
N.B.: my kit had a nice pretty blue plastic sheet with a black outline on it. It was only when I put the whole phone back together and was packing up the supplies and tools that I realized it was a replacement gummi seal. A LABEL WOULD BE VERY USEFUL HERE!
I am a retired engineer, and aside from the size of the bits and bobs, it was a piece of cake! Thanks...you saved me $75!
P. Roberts - Responder