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Direito de executar reparos

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Introdução

Replacing the hard drive requires separating the display and removing the left speaker.

This guide also includes steps to upgrade your iMac's hard drive with a SSD. It describes how to install the SSD's temperature sensor so that the Mac's fans will operate at the correct speed.

Before beginning any work on your iMac: Unplug the computer and press and hold the power button for ten seconds to discharge the power supply's capacitors.

Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply.

    • With the hinge free to move, the iMac will be unbalanced and hard to work on. Repairs can be completed with the iMac laying down, but are faster and easier with an iMac service wedge.

    Incomplete guidance . Does not say how to transfer cables such as thermal sensor .

    Yuan - Responder

    La traduction française est tronquée : “…plus faciles avec une cale de maintien pour iMac”

    (https://eustore.ifixit.com/fr/Outils/Org...)

    Pierre-Aurélien - Responder

    My $12.99 iMac Service Wedge looks like a $0 soft pillow from the guest room…

    ;-)

    John Fisk - Responder

  1. Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case. The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" (9.5 mm) into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage. The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" (9.5 mm) into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.
    • Starting on the left of the display, near the power button, insert the iMac Opening Tool into the gap between the glass panel and the rear case.

    • The hub on the iMac Opening Tool will keep you from pushing the wheel in too far. If using a different tool, insert no more than 3/8" (9.5 mm) into the display. You risk severing antenna cables and causing serious damage.

    Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

    Clark Green - Responder

    A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

    Dan -

    Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

    When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

    Walter Hayden - Responder

    Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

    Walter Hayden - Responder

    I can confirm with Walter - trying to remove freshly applied adhesive is WAAAAY harder! My pizza cutter didn’t work correctly (the circle became a rectangle!) and I ended up with a small crack on the left of my screen. Dang it!

    Benon Koebsch -

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Responder

    I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

    Anthony Zimmerman - Responder

    Don’t know if you are still around, but THANK YOU for posting this video! The video made it seem SO NOT SCARY and, in conjunction with the photos and comments and tips on this guide, was a lifesaver. Big thumbs up.

    Melissa Ortiz -

    First impressions so far: yes it can be a bit nerve wrecking if it is your first time doing this sort of thing and even with lots of experience with a 2011 model it’s still a bit unsettling haha (nervous laughter).

    What I recommend: use a guitar pick to start cutting the glue. You’ll need a bit of pressure so do just the tip.

    Once you’ve done the whole perimeter (minus bottom) do it again but now it should be easier to go deeper so go very slow and careful. Then get the old suction cups used to open older models and start lifting the display very carefully to see where it’s still glued and cut those as well.

    Then you should be done and now the real fun begins! :D

    Carlos Ferrari - Responder

    It’s ridiculous. Apple should pay for doing this. Like glue parts together to block a repair / make difficult. I smashed my iMac. FU Apple. Seriously, every product I owned had hardware issues. For example, bad solder joints. Never again Apple. I’m happy with Windows and in 2018 / 2019 there are many other manufacturers with high quality stuff. Apple is dying, if they do not change …

    Depple - Responder

    NOTE: I followed every step word for word, but the adhesive strips supplied are as bad as double sided tape. Within 48hours the screen had slipped off and cracked. Now I need to fork out for a new screen and try again.

    Not sure what to try next time with strips? Perhaps a bit of glue to help hold it??

    Dan Kelly - Responder

    Where do i get the “iMac Opening Tool?” its neither in the list of tools nor could i find it on the tool page.

    Patrick Cella - Responder

    Hi @snappadoodle! The opening tool is included in the adhesive kit included in the tool list, but you can purchase it separately here.

    Sam Goldheart -

    After disconnecting the power cord and before cutting the panel adhesive, push and hold the power button for 10 seconds. This will discharge the power supply capacitors. In case you accidentally touch the solder joints on the board, you won't be shocked and drop the panel.

    Paul Floro - Responder

    Bottom line: This repair seems to have worked (so far no more intermittent shut-downs). Thanks iFixit!

    As a novice who fully expected to destroy the display or worse, I make the following recommendations: (1) Before you start, read the steps several (many) times; visualize doing them and imagine how things could go wrong; (2) Read all the comments—there were some really helpful tips—like simply displacing the left speaker rather than fully removing it; (3) Get the recommended tools*; and (4) take your time—if you start to feel frustrated—seriously, stop and take a calming breath. Time is your friend. Failure is not an option.

    *I would add a 3-prong parts puller to the tool list—it’s great for pulling and starting loose screws so you don’t drop them down into the chassis like I did. It’s also great for retrieving the screws you’ve dropped into the chassis.

    Brad Bauknecht - Responder

    Hi brad, what exactly did you repair to stop the shutdowns? I’m having the same issue

    merinian -

    Just completed the Core i5 to i7 CPU upgrade and can strongly recommend getting the “pizza tool” to cut the display adhesive. It worked flawlessly and was done in less than 5 minutes. No inadvertent cables cut. No display problems.

    John Fisk - Responder

  2. Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center. Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle. Run the tool up along the left side of the display.
    • Use the tool like a pizza cutter—roll it along through the gap, and it will cut the foam adhesive through the center.

    • Be sure to always push with the handle behind the cutting wheel. If you pull, the wheel might get pulled out of the handle.

    • Run the tool up along the left side of the display.

    I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

    Gerry - Responder

    In my experience the cutter also worked very well for cutting the original adhesive. Unfortunately when I was reinstalling the display with the new adhesive strips, somehow the display power connector came loose. I had to open the display a second time and the cutter was not as effective against the new adhesive. I managed to break the cutter tool plastic wheel and cause a few small cracks in the edge of the displays glass as I worked! Be careful and go slowly!

    azaadkb - Responder

    The cutting tool worked great until I accidentally twisted it a bit while rounding a corner. A chunk of the wheel snapped off, making the rest of the job quite a bit more challenging. Just make sure you are keeping the tool directly parallel with the screen.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ - Responder

  3. Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner. Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner. Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.
    • Continue wheeling the tool up around the top left corner.

  4. Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display. Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.
    • Cut the adhesive along the top left of the display.

    The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Responder

  5. Continue along the top of the display. You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.
    • Continue along the top of the display.

    • You may want to run the tool back and forth through what you've already cut a few times, to ensure you get as much of the adhesive separated as possible.

    what about the part where the camera is though? do I just treat it like the rest of the screen?

    Boris - Responder

    yes. the tool can’t go too deep

    flow in - Responder

  6. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display. Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.
    • Push the tool around the top right corner of the display.

  7. Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display. Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.
    • Wheel the tool down along the right side of the display.

  8. Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display. At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.
    • Finish pushing the opening tool to the bottom of the right side of the display.

    • At this point, you'll want to run the tool back around the entire display, to ensure you cut as much adhesive as possible.

  9. While the opening tool did the lion's share of the work, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive. Set the iMac face-up on a table. Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.
    • While the opening tool did the lion's share of the work, the display will still be slightly adhered to the case. A plastic card will be necessary to free up the last of this adhesive.

    • Set the iMac face-up on a table.

    • Starting from the top right corner of the iMac, insert a plastic card between the display and frame.

    • Be careful not to insert it more than 3/8" (9.5 mm), or you may damage internal components.

    I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

    Peter Fischer - Responder

    Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

    i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

    Edgar Broekema - Responder

    i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

    Eugene Kharkov - Responder

    I broke one too. And even if you think you did it correctly, you’ll not be able to see where you might have gone too far. You would think it’s very protected behind that metal plate, but no. Take special care with this offence to “right to repair” This should have been designed WAY better. I mean replacing a hardrive that is very likely to fail over the course of time, or even a simple desire to upgrade to an ssd!.

    Bummer

    Denis Sytmen - Responder

    HINT: If you turn the card and use the blue part of it, then you can avoid going to deep: no further then the blue part …

    Barthold - Responder

    On the cards I got with my iFixit kit, the blue part was way bigger than 9.5mm — closer to 20mm!

    I made a line 9mm from the edge of each of my cards and used that as a guide.

    Damian Chadwick -

    I’m thinking I might just use vinyl tape to keep the screen in place for at least a little while after an upgrade. The extra strength of the replacement tape sounds scary.

    Art Hackett - Responder

    I wrapped two layers of vinyl electrical tape around the short side of an old gift card 3/8” from the edge. This “stop" prevented the card from going in too far. The card really helps to break the panel free.

    Paul Floro - Responder

    Umm.. I’m not sure that I’d recommend using a repurposed credit card to open the display - I found that using the “pizza tool” to cut the old adhesive then using a pair of suction cups to gently pull the display up worked perfectly well.

    John Fisk - Responder

  10. Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame, and cut any remaining adhesive near the corner. Using too much force will crack the glass. Work carefully, and don't try to create a gap any larger than about 1/4" (6 mm).
    • Gently twist the plastic card to open the space between the display and frame, and cut any remaining adhesive near the corner.

    • Using too much force will crack the glass. Work carefully, and don't try to create a gap any larger than about 1/4" (6 mm).

    My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Responder

  11. Be sure to stop cutting before the iSight camera in this step, or you may damage it. Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive. Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.
    • Be sure to stop cutting before the iSight camera in this step, or you may damage it.

    • Slide the card toward the center of the display, to cut any remaining adhesive.

    was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

    Julia S. - Responder

  12. Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling. Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.
    • Put the card into the corner again and let it stay there to keep the adhesive from resettling.

  13. Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner. Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner. Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.
    • Insert a second card into the gap between the display and frame in the top left corner.

  14. Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame. As with the other side, move slowly to allow the adhesive to break, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.
    • Gently twist the card, slightly increasing the space between the display and frame.

    • As with the other side, move slowly to allow the adhesive to break, and be careful not to over-stress the display glass.

  15. OPEN ALL THE TABS

    RAM Upgrade Kits for Mac

    Confira os kits

    Enough RAM
    For All The Tabs

    Confira os kits
  16. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera. Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.
    • Slide the plastic card toward the center, again stopping just before the iSight camera.

  17. Insert the card back into the top left corner. Insert the card back into the top left corner.
    • Insert the card back into the top left corner.

  18. Only lift the display a few inches—it is still attached to the iMac by data and power cables. With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case. If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.
    • Only lift the display a few inches—it is still attached to the iMac by data and power cables.

    • With the cards inserted as shown near the corners, gently twist the cards to increase the gap between display and case.

    • If there are any sections that seem to stick and won't separate, stop twisting and use one of the cards to cut the adhesive in the problem area.

    • Begin to lift the top of the display up from the frame.

    I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

    Marco De Palma - Responder

    I would strongly recommend using suction cups

    Luca Mucci - Responder

    Agreed about the suction cups. An extra pair of hands might be good here as well.

    Damian Chadwick - Responder

    I agree, I’m using iFixit suction cups right now.

    tanner85 - Responder

  19. While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable. Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connections, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").
    • While holding the display up with one hand, use the other to unplug the display power cable.

    • Lift the display up enough to have easy access to the connections, but not so much that you stretch the cables and stress their connections (about 8").

    Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

    Alastair Lack - Responder

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Responder

    The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

    Ed tabickman - Responder

    Is it possible to replace the power cable if its damaged? I can’t seem to find anything about this.

    Joseph Orr - Responder

    After finishing my hard drive replacement I reconnected these connectors to test my display before using new adhesive. Everything was working beautifully. But then when I applied the new adhesive and went to seal the display on for good - the display power cable somehow became disconnected! I had to reopen the Mac for a second time which was far more difficult with new adhesive. When reinstalling double and triple check that the cables are securely inserted before the final seal. Sounds obvious but it’s quite the annoyance if something goes wrong at this point.

    azaadkb - Responder

    Very difficult to work with these connectors.

    Power cable very difficult to unplug - data cable veeeeery difficult to plug in.

    I noticed that working with the iMac positioned vertically (and with a proper support for inclination) makes this step slightly easier…

    Luca Mucci - Responder

    Interesting comments.. personally, I didn’t find the cables particularly difficult to detach and reattach. You do have to be patient and gentle. Personally, I found that a rolled up beach towel gently wedged between the unit and back of the display helped keep the glass up. Also, a small flashlight can be helpful to see the cables and connectors if you’re lighting isn’t perfect.

    John Fisk - Responder

  20. Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable. Disconnect the display data cable. This is a delicate connection that can easily be broken. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.
    • Flip up the metal retaining bracket on the display data cable.

    • Disconnect the display data cable.

    • This is a delicate connection that can easily be broken. Be sure to pull the display data cable connector straight out of its socket, toward the top of the iMac.

    I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

    I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

    Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

    chansung park - Responder

    Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

    Dan -

    Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

    redfoxydarrest - Responder

    Sorry damaged display

    Dan -

    I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

    john - Responder

    I agree! +1

    Jim Reitz -

    Yes, John is absolutely correct on this one. I damaged the display cable trying to get it back in. A close up would have helped and now my computer might have actually been fixed.

    Marsha Giardina -

    [|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

    Jim Kelly - Responder

    Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

    Sam Goldheart -

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Responder

    Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it? I find it hard to believe (though I’m reading the horror stories here) that a whole display can get damaged. Especially when many of us were following to a T and being VERY CAREFUL.

    Thanks.

    Bryan - Responder

    First: During reassembly, I highly recommend you connect these cables and do a test boot BEFORE you remove the protective tape on the adhesive strips. That way you can fix any issues(like a damaged cable) if something is not right and you have not re-glued the screen back down which will cause a problem. If you have a second person and everything is working after test boot, you can just leave the cables connected, lift the bottom of the screen and have 2nd person pull the protective tape on the adhesive strips and you can set the screen in place. Second I damaged the video data cable during reassembly on my late 2015 iMac- I did not get the connector straight and I damaged the wires on the cable. I recommend you have someone else hold the screen while you attach the cables - they are fragile. Luckily, the data cable was easily replaced for only about $20. If you must do this by yourself, just be careful I highly recommend have 2 people at this step during reassembly.

    Chip T - Responder

    At least on my “late 2013” model, the smaller display cable connector has tiny, tiny clips on the outside edges. These must be squeezed to unlatch it. Don't pull on the cable itself or the wires can be pulled out. Even with my small fingers, it was hard to grip the clips. When reconnecting, the connector will lightly snap into place.

    Paul Floro - Responder

    I managed this step without any problems, but I had my wife hold the screen up while I disconnected/connected the cables. I STRONGLY encourage another pair of hands here so you can focus your full attention on being ultra careful with the cables.

    BARRY RODRIGUEZ - Responder

    On the 2015 there are 2 cables.

    1. Once the display is loose use the Mac foam block sold from Ifixit to keep the display from rocking to hold open the glass

    2. Blow out dust with canned air

    3. Get a flash light and small flat edged screw driver

    4. Use the screw driver to slow pry loose the connector from the socket by gently inserting it in the gap on the left and then on the right slowly easing the connector from the socket towards the top of the glass

    5. The more center connector has a pull tape and a wire loop. Lift pull tape and the wire loop will raise up.

    6. Pull the wire loop towards the top of the glass to slide out the connector from its socket

    Anthony Crocker - Responder

    Have a late 2013 model and went to do the SSD upgrade. When going to remove the display we cracked the bottom left corner of the glass (just the glass frame part - not part of the screen that displays anything). We were also having difficulty putting re-attaching the display flex cable. Whenever we finally went to test it before re-sealing the screen back on with new adhesive it would sound like it is turning on as it makes boot-up noises and the fans start running, but the screen would just remain black. Just wondering if the crack in the bottom left-hand side of the glass/display would have damaged a part of the display assembly or if it would be more likely that we just damaged the display flex cable (which can be replaced for $26)?

    Zach Tweel - Responder

    does anybody know how the Display Cabel pin assignment is? I want to try if I can attach the Panel to another grafic card

    Marco Rizzo-Scheible - Responder

  21. Lift the display up to a near-vertical position. At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.
    • Lift the display up to a near-vertical position.

    • At this point there is still a strip of adhesive along the bottom of the display, that will hold the display to the frame like a hinge. You can loosen this adhesive by working the display up and down a few times.

    • Remove as much of the adhesive as possible by grabbing it at the outer edges, and then pulling or rolling it towards the middle.

    Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

    dforgues - Responder

    Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

    David Zemsky - Responder

    Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

    Peter Haigh - Responder

    There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

    Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

    Todd Derek - Responder

    The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

    Andrew Stephens - Responder

    Niemals den unteren Klebestreifen mit einem scharfen Gegenstand wie Rasierklinge oder so versuchen zu trennen, davon geht die Beschichtung des Displays kaputt und man hat hässliche Streifen unten hinter dem Glas. Stattdessen lieber versuchen, das Display nach oben zu klappen und abzuziehen.

    Bas ti - Responder

    translation from Bas Ti because this is very important:

    Never try to separate the bottom adhesive strip with a sharp object such as a razor blade or something, the coating on the display will break and you will have ugly strips at the bottom behind the glass. Instead, try to flip up and pull off the display.

    Kurt Grootjans - Responder

  22. Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red). If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.
    • Be very careful not to touch the capacitor leads or any exposed solder joints on the back of the power supply (boxed in red).

    • If necessary, a plastic card can be used to cut any remaining sections of the bottom adhesive strip.

    Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

    Wizbang FL - Responder

    you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

    Thomas Webb - Responder

    What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

    Eric - Responder

    [|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

    John Warmann - Responder

    Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

    Charlie Nancarrow - Responder

    J’ai réussi à intervenir dans l’iMac sans décoller l’ensemble de l’écran. Je l’ai ouvert en laissant la dernière partie collée (vers le logo Apple) et qui sert comme une charnière. Bien calé et assuré l’écran n’a pas bougé et j’ai pu changer mon disque dur facilement. Le grand avantage et d’avoir l’écran toute suite juste quand on le recolle par la suite.

    David Mariaux - Responder

    Well, I of course touched a soldering point in the red area as my hand slipped. I heard and felt a tiny “click” and after replacing the HDD with SSD etc I can not power the iMac up anymore. Not a sign of life :-( I suppose I broke the power supply. Can someone confirm? Or could something else have broken too?

    David Rosner - Responder

    @john - there’s a slot on the back of the motherboard for a storage stick. fancy

    flow in - Responder

  23. Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass. The display has fragile edges. Avoid lifting the display by the corners. Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. Lay the display face down on a flat, soft surface. It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.
    • Be very careful handling the display—it's big, heavy, and made of glass. The display has fragile edges. Avoid lifting the display by the corners.

    • Lift the display up from the frame and remove it from the iMac. Lay the display face down on a flat, soft surface.

    • It may be necessary to slowly lift from one side, to peel against the remaining adhesive.

    • After the adhesive is cut, it cannot be used to re-seal the display in place. Follow this guide when your repair is complete to replace the adhesive strips that secure the display to the rear enclosure.

    You really should be using film handling or surgical type gloves to handle the screen to minimise finger grease on any of it. Even if it’s possible to clean most of it off, it can be corrosive over time.

    Art Hackett - Responder

  24. If you are replacing the display panel, you may need to transfer additional components from the old panel to the new one. Compare the back of the old display with the replacement display. Note all cables, sensors, and foam cushioning that are missing from the new display.
    • If you are replacing the display panel, you may need to transfer additional components from the old panel to the new one. Compare the back of the old display with the replacement display. Note all cables, sensors, and foam cushioning that are missing from the new display.

    • If there is a wire or cable underneath adhesive tape, always pull the tape off first.

    • If the cable is glued to the chassis, use a heated iOpener or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive first. You can then slide an opening pick underneath the cable to loosen it. Never pull directly on the delicate connectors.

    • Slide an opening pick underneath the foam cushion pieces to separate them from the display, and gently pull them off. You may need some double sided tape to re-attach them to the new display.

    Be extremely careful removing the LCD Temp Sensor from the rear of the screen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. Use a razor blade so “shave off” the sensor under the adhesive. I just had the screen replaced by a local shop and, upon boot, the fan was running full-speed and the Mac’s speed was miserable; Excel took 30 bounces in the Dock to launch rather than the expected 4-5. Novabench showed the Mac running at 4% of its expected speed (overall). The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the (partially disconnected) sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. No problem controlling the fan speed then but the iMac’s running speed was awful until the disconnected sensor wire was fixed.

    barryjaylevine - Responder

    Hi barryjaylevine,

    I’ve had my LCD replaced on my iMac 27 / 2013 and there is no LCD Temp Sensor cable on the replacement screen.

    I’m experiencing the same performance issues.

    I’ve ordered a new sensor, do you have any pointers as to how to install it?

    Thanks,

    Simon

    UK

    simon kennedy -

    hey Simon, I used 2-sided tape….this is assuming the new sensor doesn’t already come with an adhesive surface already applied.

    a roll of kapton tape for your own peace of mind will make sure nothing detaches from thermally-induced adhesive crystallization

    make sure you position it in such a way that you can easily plug the lead back into the mobo….not a lot of length to that wire

    placebomessiah - Responder

    Howdy folks,

    Thanks for all the tips, LCD sensor fitted and iMac back in action.

    Never again!

    Simon

    simon kennedy - Responder

    Hello all. So I’m trying to pinpoint my backlight issue on my 2015 retina 5k - I noticed I’m missing my thermal sensor on the LCD. Would this help with the backlight? I’m sure it will keep my fans from going crazy. Any help would be appreciated! Note: I have LEDs except the 4th one. Thanks!

    Jordan Shababy - Responder

    Be careful when removing the adhesive residue!

    I didn’t know it, but I ended up leaving slight scratch marks that can be seen from the front side.

    Eric - Responder

  25. Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.
    • Remove two 10.0 mm T10 screws.

    If you just want access to the HD, there is no need to remove any speaker wires - it slides over enough to access the HD screws.

    johann beda - Responder

    No need to remove speaker or hard drive to replace power supply. Not clear at all why these steps are included.

    nicejob - Responder

    *** Skip directly to Step 31 if you’re just replacing the hard drive. These next steps are totally unnecessary for that! They just add complexity and increase the chances for something going wrong. ***

    Damian Chadwick - Responder

    Avoid Extra Steps! Again, you DO. NOT. NEED. TO. REMOVE. THE. RIGHT. SPEAKER. Just take out the two speaker mounting screws and scoot the speaker enclosure to the left a bit to access the two Hard Drive bracket screws on the left side. Once you remove the two bracket screws you can easily remove / replace the drive.

    clinton - Responder

    Came back just to say what everyone else has said: you really don’t need to take out the whole speaker. You can just loosen the two screws and move it aside to access the drive/put the new one in. Saves a lot of effort.

    Melissa Ortiz - Responder

  26. Unplug the left speaker cable from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pull straight up out of the socket. De-route the cable from the gap between the hard drive and logic board. If the gap between the hard drive and logic board is too narrow for the speaker cable, disconnect it and leave the cable in place.
    • Unplug the left speaker cable from its socket on the logic board. Be sure to pull straight up out of the socket.

    • De-route the cable from the gap between the hard drive and logic board.

    • If the gap between the hard drive and logic board is too narrow for the speaker cable, disconnect it and leave the cable in place.

    I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Responder

  27. Be careful not to touch any solder joints on the back of the power supply. Capacitors may be charged enough to give you a dangerous shock. Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board. Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board.
    • Be careful not to touch any solder joints on the back of the power supply. Capacitors may be charged enough to give you a dangerous shock.

    • Use a spudger to disconnect the power button connector from its socket on the logic board.

    Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

    brianyu - Responder

    The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

    Robert -

    there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

    Thomas Webb - Responder

    Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

    Joseph Ashe - Responder

    If I leave my iMac unplugged for an extended period, say 24 or 48 hours, is it still possible to get an electric shock from the PSU? Do the capacitors eventually discharge?

    Dominic Pettifer - Responder

    make sure you’ve actually unplugged the mac when running this cable, and not had it plugged in to test the diagnostic LEDs, because one of those wee silver spots is carrying 230v, and its 6mm away from the place the cable runs, So if you have fat fingers like mine, that’s a free wake up zap

    flow in - Responder

  28. Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5"). Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5").
    • Lift the left speaker straight up, until the power button cable is exposed (about 0.5").

  29. Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker. Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker. Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker.
    • Gently de-route the power button cable from its groove in the left speaker.

    Pay attention: if pulling out the loudspeaker tear off the wire of the power button, Apple have not any service parts except for the whole rear housing!

    Fabio Braga - Responder

  30. Lift the left speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac. If the gap between the hard drive and logic board was too narrow to free the speaker cable earlier, gently pull it free as you remove the speaker. Push from the connector end as you pull from the speaker end to thread the cable under the hard drive's right bracket.
    • Lift the left speaker straight up and remove it from the iMac.

    • If the gap between the hard drive and logic board was too narrow to free the speaker cable earlier, gently pull it free as you remove the speaker.

    • Push from the connector end as you pull from the speaker end to thread the cable under the hard drive's right bracket.

    I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

    Robert - Responder

    me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

    Alber Einsten -

    Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

    Matthew Gonzalez -

    It is difficult to remove the bottom of the speaker because it bends into the frame. Be careful to remove the power button cable, which also routes in a channel in the bottom of the speaker.

    Eric - Responder

    easier to remove the speakers if you unscrew the front ‘chin strap’ - 6/9 phillips screws that you can see in the picture hold that aluminum piece in place

    flow in - Responder

  31. Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive. Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive.
    • Pull straight up on the SATA data/power cable to disconnect it from the drive.

    Is the WD hard drive an Apple Special with some internal rom or other thing? Planning to put in a Seagate Firecuda 2TB. Is there some special plug or temperature sensor requirement? Seems like there is only the SATA connector. Will I encounter fast fans? (can load the software to stop that). Think it’s a swap and is “easy”.

    Carl Schultz - Responder

  32. Remove two 7.3 mm T10 screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.
    • Remove two 7.3 mm T10 screws securing the left hard drive bracket to the rear case.

    If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat.

    Robert - Responder

    Been there done that. Had to flip it and shake the heck out of it to get that srew to fall out!

    webmail54 - Responder

    Left hard drive bracket screws are T8!! Had to remove HD first before derouting left speaker cable.

    lamajr - Responder

    Thank you iFixit for sending a T10 with magnetic tip. You saved me!

    Ben Hannam - Responder

    The bracket screws are T10. The screws on the left side of the SILVER hard drive itself, are T8. If you seem to need a T8, you are actually trying to remove the wrong two screws. Look immediately to the left of the hard drive & you will see the BLACK bracket frame with two screws that use T10.

    jumpoverpuddles - Responder

  33. Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together. Tilt the left side up away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left. Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.
    • Grab the hard drive and left hard drive bracket together.

    • Tilt the left side up away from the rear case, and slide the assembly to the left.

    • Remove the hard drive and left hard drive bracket from the iMac.

    Two notes here:  If you are using OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable, be sure to tuck the cable under the hard drive slightly.  You cannot allow the connector to sit near the top edge since this will not allow the monitor to sit flush with the chassis when it is reattached.  Additionally, the SATA connector does not seem to fit together as snuggly as when it was connect to the HDD, so tape or a plastic cable tie to keep the connection tight may be good insurance to prevent it from coming loose.

    If you are planning on dual booting with Windows 10, the Windows 10 installed failed when the SSD and HDD were both connected at the same time.  I had to disconnect the HDD until Windows 10 was installed.  Note: I did a fresh install on a new SSD not configured as a fusion drive.  If you are planning on doing this as well, use packing tape (or something similar) to hold the monitor in place until after installing the OSs.  Then reconnect the HDD and apply the adhesive to the monitor for a permanent seal.  Good Luck!

    Walter Hayden - Responder

    Hi Walter, i’m looking to replace the broken fusion drive with a SSD, do i have to get the OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable?

    Gregorio Alvarado Sahli -

    Full removal of the speaker is unnecessary - just very carefully unplug the two-conductor power button cable, which is routed through the groove along the edge of the speaker enclosure. Next, unfasten the two large torx screws holding the speaker enclosure to the chassis. Now you can easily scoot the speaker away from the drive mount - move it over just enough to reach the drive mount’s 2 torx fasteners beneath the edge of the speaker (a CM or two). There’s now enough room to easily remove and replace the drive assembly .

    clinton - Responder

    Just wondering if the HDD 3.5 (3TB) in my 2015 27’ 5K iMac case are the ones with the temp control firmware onboard. Just got quote from Auhorised repair centre for 2x the normal price of a 3TB drive. They say I can drop in one i source myself if I like but I don’t want to get it back and have the fans run all the time. Thanks in advance :)

    Declan Casey - Responder

  34. Remove the left hard drive bracket. Remove the left hard drive bracket.
    • Remove the left hard drive bracket.

    This step is unnecessary. Just leave the bracket in place and set the assembly aside.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Responder

  35. Remove the four 8.1 mm T8 screw posts from the hard drive, and transfer them to the replacement drive enclosure.
    • Remove the four 8.1 mm T8 screw posts from the hard drive, and transfer them to the replacement drive enclosure.

    In my case these were T9 screw posts. Late 2012 iMac. They had traces of Loctite on them.

    rsnadd - Responder

  36. Only follow the next 8 steps if you are replacing your hard drive with an SSD kit. Depress the enclosure's front plate latch with your finger. While holding the latch down, swing the plate out. Remove the front plate.
    • Only follow the next 8 steps if you are replacing your hard drive with an SSD kit.

    • Depress the enclosure's front plate latch with your finger. While holding the latch down, swing the plate out.

    • Remove the front plate.

    Ich denke die Frontplatte hätte anschliessend auch wieder eingesetzt gehört - bin die Anleitung Schritt für Schritt durch gegangen, und mir ist leider gar nicht aufgefallen, dass dieser Schritt fehlt. Nun ist der iMac bereits wieder verklebt und beim Aufräumen ist mir die übrig gebliebene Frontplatte untergekommen.

    Aber halb so schlimm, die SSD ist angeschraubt, kann sich also eh nicht bewegen.

    Gerhard Dietrichsteiner - Responder

    My enclosure doesn’t look like this. All I received was a black back plate. Where is the rest of it? Oh boy

    Selwyn Arnold - Responder

  37. Line up the small SATA connector so that the short side on the SSD connector matches the short side on the enclosure connector. Slide the drive in through the front of the enclosure until the SATA connector is fully seated. The SSD connects with the enclosure in only one way. If the connectors are not lining up, rotate the SSD and try again.
    • Line up the small SATA connector so that the short side on the SSD connector matches the short side on the enclosure connector.

    • Slide the drive in through the front of the enclosure until the SATA connector is fully seated.

    • The SSD connects with the enclosure in only one way. If the connectors are not lining up, rotate the SSD and try again.

  38. You may optionally install two Philips #1 screws that came with the enclosure kit to secure the SSD in the enclosure. Replace the front plate.
    • You may optionally install two Philips #1 screws that came with the enclosure kit to secure the SSD in the enclosure.

    • Replace the front plate.

  39. Plug the included sensor-enabled SATA cable into the enclosure's port. Line up the narrow side of the cable connector with the narrow side of the enclosure connector. The cable is keyed to connect in only one way. If you can't connect the cable, rotate it 180°, and try again.
    • Plug the included sensor-enabled SATA cable into the enclosure's port.

    • Line up the narrow side of the cable connector with the narrow side of the enclosure connector. The cable is keyed to connect in only one way. If you can't connect the cable, rotate it 180°, and try again.

  40. Peel the backing off of the adhesive back of the small temperature sensor board. Adhere the temperature sensor board to an exposed, metal area of the surface of the SSD, as close as possible to the SATA connector. Fold the excess temperature sensor wires so that they are out of the way while you install the enclosure.
    • Peel the backing off of the adhesive back of the small temperature sensor board.

    • Adhere the temperature sensor board to an exposed, metal area of the surface of the SSD, as close as possible to the SATA connector.

    • Fold the excess temperature sensor wires so that they are out of the way while you install the enclosure.

    Does the small temperature sensor board have to be purchased separately for a 2015 iMac or is there one already attached to the HDD?

    Richard Lee - Responder

    Hi Richard, our upgrade kit does come with a temperature sensor, but a hard drive bought by itself will not come with one.

    Adam O'Camb -

    The enclosure that came with my kit is all plastic, does the sensor have to be connected to metal? If yes, where would it go given the all-plastic enclosure?

    Lynne Mitchell - Responder

    Hi Lynne,

    It does not have to be connected to metal. However, the sensor should be stuck on the drive and not on the enclosure so that it can sense the drive’s temperature.

    Arthur Shi -

    My iMac (27-inch, Late 2013) (Model Identifier: iMac14,2) (EMC: 2639), had a Seagate Barracuda 1.0TB HDD installed. There was no temperature sensor on the HDD. I have the Fan Controller that is pictured in this manual on Steps 39, 40 and 41. The photos do not show a small two-conductor cable connected from the Fan Controller circuit board to the logic board. There is usually a cable that connects the small circuit board, where the drive’s temperature is measured, to a connector on the logic board, but not in this iMac. For now, I have installed the Samsung 860 EVO 500GB SSD without a fan controller and it has been running for over two hours without a hint of the fan ramping up. Should I still install the Fan Controller and not worry about connecting the controller sensor to the logic board? Thank you for creating an excellent manual!

    David Higgins - Responder

    Hello, what if I don’t buy the temperature sensor? Could I break my computer or the SSD? Thank you in advance for your answer.

    kurdonet - Responder

    You can use Mac Fan Control as a software solution. You won’t break your computer as it will slow down and throttle itself to protect it. More than anything, your SSD will run warmer than usual, which could shorten its lifespan.

    Arthur Shi -

    I just did this procedure with an A1419 (EMC # 2806) and didn’t buy the temperature sensor. I didn’t experience any loud fans afterwards. The machine was originally ordered with 3TB Fusion Drive. After installing the new 2TB SSD (WD Blue WDS200T2B0A) the Disk Utility showed an original 128GB PCI drive in addition to the new SSD. I ignored this PCI SSD and reinstalled OS X on the SATA SSD. All is good here! Oh, also I didn’t use any fancy 3.5” to 2.5” drive adapter, but a simple 3-dollar eBay adapter (can be found with this title, “2.5" to 3.5" Bay SSD Metal Hard Drive HDD Mounting Bracket Adapter”). I keep these laying around just in case. I did have to re-thread the screw holes to re-use the iMac’s HDD screw-posts (used tap & drill set, size 6-32 NC).

    Andy Blakely - Responder

    I just upgraded my late 2015 iMac with a 1TB Samsung 860 EVO and did not use a sensor. No fan or heat issues over the last week of use. Please note this Samsung drive is not the primary workhorse on the machine as I also upgraded my PCI ssd and use that as the primary drive. I have read on other sites that this model iMac does not need the sensor but I am not 100% on that.

    Chip T - Responder

    une fois la sonde collé sur le ssd ou est ce que celle ci ce branche ? sur la carte mere ?

    Charly Dewost - Responder

  41. Install the mounting pins from the old hard drive onto the sides of the enclosure.
    • Install the mounting pins from the old hard drive onto the sides of the enclosure.

    • The holes on the enclosure may not be threaded, so screwing the mounting pins into them may require extra effort. Take your time and screw them in slowly, making sure they go in straight.

    This was an understatement for my drive adapter. The adapter had threads that I believe were M3 threaded whereas the mounting pins are what I believer are 6-32 screws. The mounting pins are not threaded well for self-tapping, so I recommend finding an old screw that used to be used for mounting optical drives into PC cases and using those to thread the holes. You can make sure you have the correct size by screwing the sacrificial screws into the old hard drive where they should fit easily before using them to cut new threads into your 2.5” drive adapter. After that, the mounting pins went into the adapter with very little effort.

    Jakegub - Responder

  42. Attach any mounting brackets removed from the old hard drive onto the enclosure. Attach any mounting brackets removed from the old hard drive onto the enclosure.
    • Attach any mounting brackets removed from the old hard drive onto the enclosure.

  43. Attach the iMac's SATA-combo cable to the new temperature-capable SATA-combo cable. Route the SATA cables where they will not interfere with any other components.
    • Attach the iMac's SATA-combo cable to the new temperature-capable SATA-combo cable.

    • Route the SATA cables where they will not interfere with any other components.

    • Try to keep the cables free from any sharp bends and route them such that they are not pinched.

    How much time after gluing the screen can we use it?

    Maurya Gajjar - Responder

    A few hours should be fine. I suggest checking the screen after a week and after a month to make sure the adhesive is still fully bonded.

    Arthur Shi -

    Ensure the glass lines up with the edge of the iMac

    After replacing the adhesive strips with new ones and the screen connectors have been reconnected, place the lower edge of the screen on the bottom shelf” to take the weight, but don’t press it back in the shelf too much.

    At this point if you’re careful you still have the ability to ensure the edges of the glass line up with the aluminium edges. As soon as the adhesive strips make contact with the glass you will quickly lose the ability to adjust this to line up.

    pohutukawa - Responder

    What position should the iMac be in before doing this final comment related to setting the display on the “shelf”?

    joseph sis - Responder

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our Adhesive Strips Guide to reattach the display glass.

177 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Hi,

I'd like to buy this imac with ssd-pci, it's possible to add a new hard disk 3.5???

Do I need some cables???

thank you

Antonio - Responder

Dear Antonio have solved your question? I would put a 1TB SSD instead of HDD, but having bought the model with pre-installed SSD pci. Before opening the mac I wanted to know what was needed to do the upgrade ...

obi2Kenob -

How are the temperature sensing and fan speeds affected by a swap? In the future if I install an SSD I wouldn't want the fans going full speed.

shaolindave - Responder

The fans will go a little crazy because of the swap. At my work they swapped the HDD with an SSD and installed software to maintain that. You can download either, which I believe work just fine:

http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/

http://www.hddfancontrol.com/

Danny -

Any body have word on the fan temperature having issues with non-certified apple parts?

Josiah - Responder

Bought the kit and this works perfect. Installed my ssd tonight, so so happy!

Andrew Arevalo - Responder

What type of SSD did you install and what about the fans, do the run like crazy?

Peter -

I purchased one of these Samsung 850 Evo SSDs and on my Late 2013 iMac had no issues with fans or thermal sensors. http://www.msy.com.au/hard-drive/14930-s...

steve -

Do I need any special cable or adapter for replacement?

Joerg O Mir - Responder

No special cable or adapter required. However, you do still encounter the constant high speed fan issue after replacement. My understanding is that they built the fan sensor into the firmware of the Apple issued hard drives, so third party drives result in a null value being reported and thus the crazy fan noise. I'm curious how others are solving that problem.

rickhendricks -

No I installed a WD 1TB SSD and fan speeds are normal. Just a way to get money needlessly

Frank Galphin -

Did some investigation into this. I found that OWC macsales.com has a complete wire harness kit that adds the plug-and-play cable with the In-line Digital Thermal Sensor to eliminate fan noise and maintains proper system fan control through the iMac's System Management Controller. No software hacks, or third party solutions needed.

http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIYIM...

Robert - Responder

Hi. I have a Imac 27 late 2013. Next week an apple certified service station will replace my old HDD with an Samsung 850 Pro. I asked them for the thermal sensor but they said it is not necessary for the iMacs beginning late 2013. Can anybody confirm this?

joergobst80 - Responder

Ok for all with a late 2013 27". No thermal sensor is needed.

joergobst80 -

Thanks, can I also add an SSD to my HDD 1TB sata hard disk to make a fusion drive?

So without removing the HDD drive.

tristanclaus - Responder

As Antonio already asked, is it possible to add an HDD to an iMac (EMC 2639) which originally only has an pci-e SSD?

Are the data ports available?

I didin't find a full kit, so I suppose, I need to buy in addition of the HDD the brackets and the Apple connectors to the motherboard?

Thanks in advance!

Stefano - Responder

Hi

I would like to substitute my HDD (1tb) and install a 1tb SSD intead. What i have is a 27 inches late 2013 imac and i have some questiosn.

Do the SSD have to meet any special characteristics?

I´ve read something about the temperature control, is it applicable to the 2013 imac (I´ve read something about the 2009/2010 models but nothing about mine

Thanks!

jhonnie53 - Responder

I recently replaced my 1TB HDD with a 1TB SSD and had no problems with any of the sensors on my iMac Late 2013. I used this Samsung Evo SSD: http://www.msy.com.au/hard-drive/14930-s...

steve -

So, you only installed the SSD without the thermal sensor and worked just fine?

theont -

Hi guys !!!! Could you please help me? I bought this Imac 27 2013 EMC 2639 and i this there is a problem with the hdd inside the Fusion Drive. What kind of hdd should i take in order to replace Hdd? are there any specific requirementы to do that? Thanks in advance

Vitaliy Lys - Responder

do i need some adaptors for a smasung 850 ssd evo? this is 2.5 inch? can you recommend something ?

Avasilcai Daniel - Responder

Hello,

With some googling I have found that the EMC 2639 has a 3,5" hard drive. I have a Samsung 850 Evo SSD which is a 2,5" drive. In the comments I see people have installed this. Do I need a special enclosure for the 3,5 to 2,5 change?

Thanks

Danniel - Responder

On another note do I need the following thermal sensor? https://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIDI...

If so, where would I stick it on the SSD?

Danniel -

Not sure about how hard the ifixit plastic cards are, I tried using just reglar plastic cards (old credit card and such) to little effect. The wheel worked perfectly and just pryed it open with nails :)

Danniel - Responder

Followed all the instructions. Had difficulty to connect the display data cable again. Very difficult! Clumsy connector, screen heavy and obstructing work, no good explanation nor detailed photo of connection. After finishing and restarting imac: nothing... after a while very loud fan noise. Had to bring it to repair store. Verdict: logic board damaged (burned) screen maybe damaged, and other minor things... cost: 1400€

bert van overmeir - Responder

Having just done this to my late 2013 27" iMac replacing my 3TB hard drive this is fairly easy especially using this guide, there is a bit of misleading information out there regarding the need for a thermal sensor cable. Well I can tell you my 27" iMac did need one, I had the sense to rebuild with out sticking the screen back on and try it without the lead so it was a quick job to fit the thermal sensor. I replaced the drive with a seagate Barracuda same as the original.

Peter Combes - Responder

hey Peter,

I just did the same as you on a very same late 2013 27" iMac

I replaced the old HDD with a Seagate Barracuda (3TB newer generation) - but it looks like it doesn’t need the thermal sensor?

I booted on the new drive and the fans run on an average 1400, which is fairly normal I guess?

I also installed iStat and can clearly see that the HDD temperature is monitored! (30°C)

How did you notice that you actually needed a sensor? Did the fans just go mad?

Is there any other check I can do to see whether I need one or not too?

Thank you so much

Luca

Luca Mucci -

I read on another site that starting w/o the screen attached can cause $$$ Damage

Jeff Yarbrough - Responder

This question about thermal sensors and Late 2013 27" iMac, need or not. There still seems to me at least uncertainty if it is needed. Especially when substituting a stock HDD for a new SSD. Would the authors and iFixit maybe add their position on this question?

Cy Birr - Responder

I did this repair a week or two ago and have been loveing my new iMac Build. I did learn a few tricks along the way that aren’t mentioned here. I did a little blog post about it so hopefully it’ll help some people out there: https://goo.gl/hBVLzg

Bradley Andrew - Responder

Hi

I have a 27” late 2013 with 256GB PCIe and would like to add a 1TB SSD to the hopefully built in HD-connector. Does anyone know if this is possible?

Ralph - Responder

Hi,

I have upgraded my 2017 iMac with a 500GB Crucial SSD.

The iMac is now painfully slow and struggles with the most simple tasks.

The Crucial SSD did NOT come with a thermal sensor and I did not install a third party one - could this be the root of the problem?

I’ve installed Mac Fan Control software which controls the fan speed no problem.

I’ve already replaced the screen as it broke during the upgrade and I’m reluctant to remove it again!

Any pointers greatly appreciated.

Simon

simon kennedy - Responder

I’ve upgraded my imac 27 late 2013 (with 1tb hdd) with samsung evo 860 500gb. No need for thermal sensor! All working as it was before. So, maybe for some ssd’s thermal sensor is needed, but for this particular ssd - it is not.

hench1g - Responder

Thank you for the guide. I found it generally spot on and was successful in swapping the HDD with a Samsung V-Nand SSD 860 EVO (2TB). I did use glass suction cups to get a good lift on the display which I think helped. With this upgrade I am betting another two years of service before I’ll feel compelled to buy another one.

Cy Birr - Responder

I ran into fan issues after installing a 8TB hard disk (replacing a failed 3TB Seagate Barracuda). Tested the two fan control applications listed by shaolindave, but the free one (SSD Fan Control) has not been updated for a while and the other, HDD Fan Control, seemed overpriced… Did a bit of search and found this: Macs Fan Control. ( https://www.crystalidea.com/macs-fan-con... ) It is currently free, was recently updated and seems to be doing the trick…

Peace Freak - Responder

My 11 year old and I followed this detailed guide and it worked like a charm. Two sets of eyes were helpful, but Jr. really did this almost entirely on his own. Once finished (just before re-sealing the iMac) we followed a youtube video to create a “bootable USB thumbdrive” to start-up the refreshed iMac. We then reinstalled the operating system (from the internet) onto the freshly installed hard drive. Very happy and proud. Very grateful for this well written guide.

Ben Lubick - Responder

Actually you don’t necessarily have to take out the speaker and remove the cables connected to it.

It`s enough to take out the two scews on the top and move it carefully a bit to the side.

Then you can access the two screws holding the HD under it.

Don Lindo - Responder

Hey do you need the sensor-enabled SATA cable or can you connect it straight into the mac?

Thanks

Tom Halliday - Responder

Hi Tom,

You can connect it straight to the iMac, but the fan may operate at full speed. You can get around that with software, i.e. Macs Fan Control.

Arthur Shi -

Great guide which allowed me to replace hard drive without using anything up, - yet.

Two issues for optimisation of the guide.

1) The front panel door for the HD adapter is taken off but not replaced in the guide. Leave it off or reattaching after SSD instal is not clear.

2) Second is the cable setup is cumbersome with the sensor adapter cable being too long and not optimised for the original setup.

Charles Michlin - Responder

Hi Charles,

Thanks for the tip! I’ve added a step to replace the front plate.

Arthur Shi -

Nice! Did it under 45min. Another person helps a lot when you’re removing the cables. Skipped the part where speaker was disconnected, only loosened it and the hdd comes off easily!

Couldn't have done it without ifixit! Thumbs up!

Panu Hirvonen - Responder

Hi,

I would like to replace 3,5” HD with an 2,5” SSD HD on my iMac 27” late 2013;

This is the question: my iMac has a FusionDrive so, after replaced the 3,5” HD with an 2,5” SSD HD, do I have to remove the PCI drive?

Thank you so much in advance for answering.

Giuseppemaria Cavallo - Responder

Hi,

I can confirm that replacing an Apple HD with a Seagate Barracuda (equivalent to the original) works fine, at least on my a iMac 27” late 2013 with Fusion Drive.

I know there’s mixed opinions about this, but in my case I didn’t need the OWC Temperature Adapter: I can see the temperature is monitored correctly and fans work as expected.

I just needed to open the iMac, replace the old Barracuda HDD, boot from USB, rebuild the Fusion Drive from Terminal, install Mojave and copy from backup.

Do not clone the HD if you have a Fusion Drive,: to create the new Fusion both SSD and HDD will be completely erased.

Apart from that, everything was pretty much streamline

Thank you so much for this guide: it would have been impossible otherwise!!!

L

Luca Mucci - Responder

Yep it is not needed waste of money IMO

Frank Galphin -

Super easy to do it, 1h 30 minutes to do it including the re-mounting of the screen.

sebastienferrero - Responder

Merci ifixit pour ce tutoriel au Top !!

j’ai hésité longtemps avant de me lancer et grâce au kit ssd pour iMac ,j’ai pu installer ce dernier en moins de 2 heures … faut juste bien suivre le tutoriel et tout ce fait très bien. Un grand bravo à vous

arnaud moine - Responder

Step 27 you do not need to remove the speaker. Loosen 2 torx 10 screws lift the front screw up a bit and shift speaker to right towards edge. You will see the 2 Hard drive screws. Much simpler.

Step 36 why are you using such a fancy box just to hold an SSD. Just pick up a 3.5 to 2.5 adapter frame for $4.99 at best buy. Waste of money that box.

In line temperature sensor about a 90% chance you wont need it . I installed a Western Digital 1 TB SSD in my 2013 27” without the sensor and the imac fans are running at normal speeds. Another possible money waster.

I am cheap as you might have guessed! Just trying to send some helpful info may save some money even,

Frank Galphin - Responder

Can you replace an original 1T HDD with a 2T SSD? How are the software, app, data, macOS transfer works on a different volume scenario? Is there a video helper?

Tony - Responder

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