Ir para o conteúdo principal

Conserte seus objetos

Direito de executar reparos

Loja

Introdução

Use this guide to replace a faulty power supply.

    • Before beginning, unplug your iMac and lay it on a soft surface as shown.

    • Stick a suction cup near each of the two top corners of the glass panel.

    • To attach the suction cups we sell, first position the suction cup with the movable handle parallel to the face of the glass panel. While lightly holding the suction cup against the glass, raise the movable handle until it is parallel with the other handle.

    • If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a mild solvent.

    Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.

    kctipton - Responder

    Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

    MaximBorzov - Responder

    You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.

    Deepsurvival - Responder

    That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.

    Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.

    max damage -

    No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.

    Nikolas Lintulaakso - Responder

    Nails worked for me too

    Rob Dale - Responder

    Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.

    Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.

    osienna - Responder

    I use Garmin GPS suction cup. Work very well

    jc3Dcx - Responder

    I’ve just successfully installed a 1TB SSD in place of my optical drive thanks to the information here- thank you to everyone who has contributed!

    3 comments- the procedure described here seems to vary between HD replacement and dual HD/optical drive replacement. This can be confusing at times.

    Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.

    I was able to replace the DVD/HD enclosure single-handedly without fully removing the LCD, or deconnecting any of the cables (steps 5-11). It’s a bit cramped, and fiddly, but I was not happy removing any of the cables despite watching videos, etc., since they all seemed to involve applying more force than I was comfortable with. A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the 2389 model.

    Good luck!

    ivan birks - Responder

    I did it several times with one suction cup at the end of a kitchen brush. Once with the blade of a swiss army knive, also ok. And i’m pretty sure it works with fingernails too

    Tai - Responder

    Fingernails are all you need to free the glass from its magnetic hold. If you don’t have them, slip something thin and plastic, like a spudger, at a top corner.

    Max Powers - Responder

    Minha dúvida é a seguinte: após o técnico trocar o HD do meu iMac de 21,5 polegadas, a câmera parou de funcionar. Seria por causa da troca do HD? Tem solução?

    Claudio - Responder

    Creio que o cabo da camera não foi plugado ou deu mau contato… ou até danificado.

    glecyo@gmail.com

    glecyo medeiros -

    I can’t get my glass to budge. I’m replacing a cracked one and now it’s about to shatter.

    jamboxmitchell - Responder

  1. Gently lift the glass panel perpendicular to the face of the LCD enough to clear the steel mounting pins attached along the underside of the top edge of the glass panel. Pull the glass panel away from the lower edge of the iMac and carefully set it aside.
    • Gently lift the glass panel perpendicular to the face of the LCD enough to clear the steel mounting pins attached along the underside of the top edge of the glass panel.

    • Pull the glass panel away from the lower edge of the iMac and carefully set it aside.

    • During reinstallation, be sure to meticulously clean the inside of the glass panel and the face of the LCD as any dust or fingerprints trapped inside will be annoyingly visible when the machine is turned on.

    What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?

    Steve Speirs - Responder

    Microfiber Cloth

    Leonardo Fournier -

    Try your best not touch it in the first place

    Brian -

  2. Remove the eight 8 mm T10 Torx screws securing the display to the outer case. The last two pictures are detail shots of each side of the display. The last two pictures are detail shots of each side of the display.
    • Remove the eight 8 mm T10 Torx screws securing the display to the outer case.

    • The last two pictures are detail shots of each side of the display.

    The metal near the screws is VERY magnetic. Honestly, the hardest and by far most frustrating step was trying to put these screws back in.

    seancourtney - Responder

    I ran into the same problem - easily the most frustrating part of this process. To help deal with it, I took a drinking straw, cut it to be about 2 inches long, and used it as a chute to guide the screw to the hole. Dropping the screw down the straw, it'd still stick to the side due to the magnets, but using my screwdriver, it was easy to push the screw down to where it needed to go, and the straw kept the screw from being pulled out of place by the magnets.

    josh -

    +1 for the straw tip. Worked a treat!

    osienna - Responder

    Hmm… yes, the magnets sucks - literally. But if you use a normal screwdriver or a bit, the screwdriver tip or the bit can be “loaded” by the magnets too. Just move the screwdriver (or bit) over one of the magnets and then “plug” the screw onto the screwdriver’s tip (or bit). It will be held by magnetic force. Just enough to move the screw vertically and very slowly into the whole.

    There are some special screwdriver on the market with “claws” to hold screws, but they are hard to find/to buy and expensive. I sometimes use superglue (a LITTLE) to temporary fasten the screw at the screwdrivers tip. This technique can be used with destroyed screw heads too to optimize adhesion.

    Udo - Responder

    Les vis sont inévitablement aimantées

    Gui - Responder

    Replacing these screws was like playing the most difficult game of “Operation” imaginable. I wish I’d seen the tip about using a straw before I started playing!

    Bret Mogilefsky - Responder

  3. Slightly lift the top edge of the display out of the outer case.
    • Slightly lift the top edge of the display out of the outer case.

    • Do not lift it too much. There are several cables attaching the display to the logic board. Twisting or pulling the display assembly with the cables attached will damage your iMac.

    You can use one hand to hold the edge up while reaching with the other hand to disconnect cables. You may want to have a prop handy (like a small book) or an extra person to hold the edge up while you disconnect cables.

    kctipton - Responder

    Use the teardown guide for your iMac to familiarise yourself with the layout of everything before you dive in. I was able to get an idea of how much clearance there was once the display is unfixed from the frame, where the optical drive was relative to the base etc

    osienna - Responder

    The harddisk can be removed WITHOUT the next steps. The opening angle of the partially lifted LCD display gives enough room to untighten the two Torx T9 screws of the hard disk bracket, to unplug the two SATA connectors and to carefully lift out the harddisk. There is absolutely no need to dismantle the whole thing.

    All you need is a screwdriver which fits into the room. I’ve used the “Pro Tech Toolkit” from iFixit. The screwdriver with Torx T9 bit fits perfectly.

    The other “tool” you need is either someone who holds the LCD plate or the inner leftover of a kitchenroll, a scrunched paper, a small towel or similar which has to be stuffed between the logic boards and the LCD plate to keep the LCD at its lifted place (careful! don’t unplug any of the cables).

    I’ve opened and changed the harddisks of those 21,5 iMacs a dozen times with the help of the “Pro Tech Toolkit” and a kitchen roll.

    Udo - Responder

    If i want to replace the HD with a SSD, can i still skip the next steps? I think i can’t because i need to change the termal censor, but i would like an other opinion please.

    Danois -

    “Kitchen Roll” - paper towel core.

    kyoder11 -

    Hia,

    thx to IFIXIT and 20+ years of computer repair and building experience (all PC) there was no problem at all to remove a 500 Gb HDD from a mid 2011 iMac and replace it with an 500 Gb SSD Drive (with help from Comtec EDV, where i bought the upgrade kit).

    Skip the steps where people are advised to remove the display. Due to my experience it is def better to leave cables and plugs where they are. I lifted the display 12 cm and fixed this position w/ one pencil in each front corner of the case where the other end of the pencil sticked in ascrew hole of the display-frame. Very easy to operate afterwards! No probs w/ the screws of the hdd-frame.

    Some care-taking of static electricity is advised - wear a wrist cable. And don’t forget to press start button after having removed power chord. I had an Android Tablet on the right side, where i could watch these ifixit pages :-)

    thx to IFIXIT!

    w/ regards from cantbtroo from Berlin

    Hans- Peter - Responder

    Thank you ifixit for the guide. Like so many others I jumped from step 4 to step 10 and left all the cables intact. Felt much safer doing so. Papertowel cores secured the LCD to higher position. There was enough room to remove the old HDD and replace it with a SSD drive.

    Cheers!

    Aapo Kaivosoja - Responder

  4. Pull the vertical sync cable connector out of its socket on the LED driver board near the top left corner of your iMac. Pull the vertical sync cable connector out of its socket on the LED driver board near the top left corner of your iMac.
    • Pull the vertical sync cable connector out of its socket on the LED driver board near the top left corner of your iMac.

    Tried doing this on my iMac, but this cable would not come out for love or money. No matter what I did, I could not unplug this cable. My iMac is the same 21inch 2011 as this one. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    louis.barr - Responder

    use a little poker type thing in your right hand to push on the 2 holes that are on top of the plug and wiggle it out with your other hand,

    Nicholas - Responder

  5. SKIP THE UPGRADE

    Save by fixing with an all-in-one kit.

    Shop iPhone Fix Kits

    SKIP THE UPGRADE

    Save by fixing with an all-in-one kit.

    Shop iPhone Fix Kits
  6. Rotate the display out of the outer case enough to disconnect the LED backlight power cable from the LED driver board. Disconnect the LED backlight power cable by depressing the locking mechanism while pulling the connector away from its socket (toward the bottom edge of the iMac).
    • Rotate the display out of the outer case enough to disconnect the LED backlight power cable from the LED driver board.

    • Disconnect the LED backlight power cable by depressing the locking mechanism while pulling the connector away from its socket (toward the bottom edge of the iMac).

  7. Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it towards upwards. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.
    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it towards upwards.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    I am having a difficult time reattaching the LCD cable. A better description or any tips would be useful here.

    Ben Bauermeister - Responder

    Me too — ditto that.

    Roger Buttermore -

    https://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/DIDI... —> abt. 5:30 into the vid. Handle up to slide in, then flip it down to lock the connector in place.

    Roger Buttermore -

    The connector needs to be carefully pushed in parallel to the board with a surprising amount of pressure and the pull tab must be folded back. Not super fragile, but not strong either.

    Isaac Vande Zande - Responder

    I really wish that the fagility of this connector was mentioned in Step 10 or 11.. When i rotated the screen on step 11.. It pulled this connector out and now I can't get it back in.. I hate computers.. HA!

    Philip Nelson - Responder

    This is the most painful part of the whole event. Replacing this cable took me around 30 minutes !

    K. Efe Egilmez - Responder

    I have tried and tried to get this cable back in. How do I know if I have messed it up?

    Christopher Teer - Responder

    Mine seems to be…upside down? Looks like the little flappy lock thing is on the bottom as opposed to it being in top as pictured?

    jinnifer douglass - Responder

  8. Disconnect the LCD thermal sensor cable connector from its socket on the logic board. Disconnect the LCD thermal sensor cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
    • Disconnect the LCD thermal sensor cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

    When putting the display down on the table, be careful not to kink the flat ribbon cable.

    frank - Responder

    The replacement hard drive I used doesn't even appear to spin up and the Time Capsule restore process doesn't show it as available. It just stays at Searching for disks and never finds it.

    JRBv3 - Responder

    I had to use Disk Utility to partition the drive and then it showed fine. Rookie mistake.

    JRBv3 -

    I managed to damage the LCD thermal sensor socket in the logic board. Now the connector won’t stay in place. I know the missing thermal sensor should cause the fans to spin up (they do spin up after a while), but the screen is blank.

    I connected an external monitor and it works fine, so it doesn’t seem to be a graphics or logic board issue. I also replaced the LED driver board with one from a working iMac, to no effect.

    Can the missing thermal sensor be causing this?

    Rodrigo da Rosa Cesconeto - Responder

    Having the same problem. Black screen, works fine with external display.

    Passerby -

  9. Carefully pull the display toward the top edge of your iMac and lift it out of the outer case, minding any cables that may get caught.
    • Carefully pull the display toward the top edge of your iMac and lift it out of the outer case, minding any cables that may get caught.

    Btw, I was pretty safe (& content) with two suction cups - i bought 3 for less than 7 Euros. They were a good help for a glass that hasn’t been removed since 2011. But i am sure fingernails will do a good job, too (of course not mine, cos i have short ones).

    At the end of the job it was even possoible to clean the fan that sucks cool air into the iMac (w/ a paintbrush and a controllable vaccuum cleaner). After that, it’s also a good opportunity to clean the air inlet that is part of the aluminium case (behind the stand - it’s always dusty).

    w/ regards from cantbtroo, Berlin

    Hans- Peter - Responder

  10. The next few steps bring your hands close to the exposed face of the power supply. To avoid a high voltage shock from the many large capacitors attached to the board, do not touch the face of the power supply.
    • The next few steps bring your hands close to the exposed face of the power supply. To avoid a high voltage shock from the many large capacitors attached to the board, do not touch the face of the power supply.

    • Remove the following four screws securing the power supply to the outer case:

    • One 9.3 mm T10 coarse-threaded screw

    • One 25 mm T10 coarse-threaded screw

    • Two 22 mm T10 fine-threaded screws

  11. Pull the upper right and lower left corners of the power supply away from the rear case to dislodge the mounting posts attached to the power supply's corners.
    • Pull the upper right and lower left corners of the power supply away from the rear case to dislodge the mounting posts attached to the power supply's corners.

    Be very careful as there still might be some current banked in the capacitors. Good enough to give you a minor shock.

    K. Efe Egilmez - Responder

  12. Carefully lift the power supply out of the outer case and rotate it to expose the cable lock as shown, minding the DC-Out and AC-In cables still attaching it to the iMac. Disconnect the DC-Out cable by depressing the locking mechanism on the connector while you pull the connector away from its socket on the power supply.
    • Carefully lift the power supply out of the outer case and rotate it to expose the cable lock as shown, minding the DC-Out and AC-In cables still attaching it to the iMac.

    • Disconnect the DC-Out cable by depressing the locking mechanism on the connector while you pull the connector away from its socket on the power supply.

    • Once the locking mechanism has cleared the socket, pull the DC-In connector away from the power supply.

  13. Disconnect the AC-In cable by depressing the locking mechanism while pulling the connector away from its socket.
    • Disconnect the AC-In cable by depressing the locking mechanism while pulling the connector away from its socket.

    • Remove the power supply from the outer case.

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

44 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

I avoided this repair for a while. My iMac would not turn on, no fans or response of any kind from pushing the power button. Reapir took me less than 30 minutes and was very straight forward.

lanekrarup - Responder

is there a fuse in the PCB where it can be replaced instead of replacing the whole power supply unit?

Victor Emmanuel Erames - Responder

Excellent guide! Also watched the video, then dove right in. 27 minutes later my iMac was up and running!

Dave - Responder

What video? I do not see any video on this page. Could you please share the link?

Thank you

vedelfino -

It took me like 20 minutes to replace the power supply. Having somebody hold the display unit while disconnecting/connecting the underneath cables was a big help ;)....and a flashlight to see better inside.

vedelfino - Responder

I did this replacement and it went great.

iMac turned on, but all the fans are blowing out of control.

I use Macs fan control now, but I would rather understand what I did wrong and how can I fix it.

Maybe I pulled the wrong wire somewhere? Although I swear I did it exactly as instructed.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

dean baram - Responder

The imac is working fine, with a second display, the imac screen is now black, have checked all connections, not sure what I did wrong, any suggestions?

iMacker - Responder

how to verify a power supply?

erickwok1105 - Responder

Hi i want to replace my power supply of iMac 21,5” Late 2011 to a power supply of iMac 27” 2009-2011 for power increase, because of CPU Upgrade to a i7 2600.

Is it possible?

Greets

Roman Pi - Responder

Thanks, IFixIt! Took me about 1-1/2 hours for the power supply replacement, including cleaning, once the iMac was fully opened. Great instructions. As a novice repair person, I was being ultra careful, though, and was photographing things as I went along. Everything went like a charm until Step 12 (disconnect the DC-out cable). Struggled to get it disconnected even though the locking mechanism was disengaged. Ending up using a tool in the joint between the two cable parts to help pry it apart.

Seriously, order everything you need from IFixIt and support a business that makes your device repair so straightforward. Shipping was extremely fast as well!

R Martin - Responder

Adicione um comentário

Exibir estatísticas:

Últimas 24 horas: 12

Últimos 7 dias: 59

Últimos 30 dias: 244

Duração total: 28,191