Introdução
Use this guide to upgrade your CPU.
Ferramentas
Peças
Não são necessárias peças.
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Loosen the three Phillips screws securing the access door to the bottom edge of your iMac.
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Remove the access door from your iMac.
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Stick a suction cup near each of the two top corners of the glass panel.
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If your suction cups refuse to stick, try cleaning both the glass panel and the suction cup with a mild solvent.
Change "Before beginning, unplug your iMac and lay it on a soft surface as shown." to "Lay your iMac on a soft surface as shown"
imac 2544 2.5 core i5 i touched the motherboard to supply and it spark now it is not powering
please tell me the directions
thanks witting for answering .
Im sorry to say, If it sparked when you touched it your motherboard s now fried. You need a new one.
Success replacing the stock ST31000528AS with a STBD3000100 (Dead 1TB to new 3TB, both Seagate). First try. Using another Mac and a quality Firewire 800 cable, I formatted it using Target Disk mode, 2 partitions (defaults, except I made the first one bigger than the second). To the second, smaller one, I copied a bootable Install OS X Mavericks partition. Tried to boot. It booted, and I installed; nary a glitch. (Running the Installer over Firewire would have been faster, but I didn't want to reboot this machine.)
See part 2 below...
(Part 2:)
I SKIPPED steps 6, 7 AND 8! Instead, after doing Step 5, I noticed I then had enough room and cable length to access the screws in Step 11 if I lifted the LCD up an inch or so, rotated it about 20-30 degrees clockwise and moved it a couple inches toward the base, and put it down. After removing them (Step 11), I propped up the LCD (with a spare spudger) and had enough room to do Steps 12, 13, and 14 without much difficulty. Felt safer/less work and risk than not skipping steps 6-8. No risk of the damage Ersan and Michael caused performing Step 7!
I just edited that step to add a note about the shortcut.
What the ???
Geoff Wacker has REJECTED my edit: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/history/ste...
I wonder why. What's the deal, Geoff? I mean I'd understand if I suggested folks didn't need the suction cups, as that could cut into iFixit's income stream, but what's wrong with suggesting that a few steps aren't needed? It worked for me; the EMC 2389 I fixed is humming along with a new 3TB HD I installed while skipping those steps.
I did not have to remove a single cable! After undoing the torx screws from the sides, I was able to rotate the LCD out of the way enough to reach all the screws holding in the ODD bracket. One of them was a bit challenging to get to, but I never felt that I was risking the cables by leaving them connected. Also, it wasn't totally clear, but you have to actually remove the ODD itself from the ODD bracket - 4 torx screws. The SDD mounts into the hard drive enclosure, then the enclosure is screwed into the bracket. Those holes (enclosure <-> Bracket) did not line up correctly for me, and I had to go with only three of them connected in the end. Seems to work fine.
Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.
You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.
That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.
Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.
Hello, I just need to replace a slightly cracked screen on my iMac. Where is it best to place the suction cups? Thanks in advance
No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.
Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.
Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.
I have an odd question -- I want to remove the polarizer from the LCD. With some monitors this is trivial, others not so much. My question is whether it is bonded to the Liquid crystal, or whether it's loose, or cutting it with a razor blade would remove it. Obviously I'd like to know before I go to the trouble of dismantling the thing... Thanks. Paul
I used a plumber's helper (you know, the thing you use for a clogged toilet
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Gently lift the glass panel perpendicular to the face of the LCD enough to clear the steel mounting pins attached along the underside of the top edge of the glass panel.
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Pull the glass panel away from the lower edge of the iMac and carefully set it aside.
What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?
Microfiber Cloth
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Remove the eight 8 mm T10 Torx screws securing the display to the outer case.
8 vis, pas 2
On reassembly, it is REALLY HARD to align those screws, because of the field of the strong magnets that hold the glass cover on. I'm sure there's a trick to it, but I'd love to know what it is for future reference.
A short piece of small gauge vinyl tubing that fits tightly over the head of the T-10 driver leaving an 8th of an inch or so in which to insert the screw to engage the head will hold the screw long enough to keep it away from the magnet and get it going in the hole.
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Slightly lift the top edge of the display out of the outer case.
When putting the display back I have resistance from the foam elements (on the top end where the iSight is) and have to press down really hard. Is that okay?
Well, stupid me put the 3.5" to 2.5" cage the wrong side up. ;)
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Pull the vertical sync ribbon cable out of its socket on the LED driver board near the top left corner of your iMac.
Reassembly of this part was the closest I came to disaster on this project. I tried inserting the connector a few times without success, and when I looked it it the leads, which are fragile, were all mangled. I smoothed them out by hand as best I could and and reinserted, very carefully this time. The trick is that the tip of the connector should be pointed somewhat upwards when reconnecting.
I was pretty sure that when I was done, I would reboot but have no display; but fortunately, everything worked.
So let’s say someone wanted to suck some of the dust off the back of the display before reassembly. Let’s just say that. Someone would likely suck this forsaken cable up into the vacuum tube then, wouldn’t they? They might. And if it were to oscillate in a rushing torrent of air, it might get munged? It might.
Here’s how you overcome such a disaster:
1) cut the end fresh, as close to the end as you can while cutting off any frayed end.
2) abrade the end gently, repeatedly, along the connector wire axis. I used emory paper. Your goal is to expose the copper conductors in the last 1/4” of the fragile evil wire.
3) Tape a small stiff cardstock to the back of the end of the connector. This is essential to press the connector wires into the connector.
4) Gently insert, taking special caution to not peel the copper off of the connector.
5) Tape that connector down deftly, without letting it move a millimeter and securing it for all time.
I just leave it connected. After disconnecting the other cables, there is enough slack to lay the display on its backside if you’re working on a flat surface.
I have replaced the hdd in this model about 8-10 times - I have never had to disconnect any cables other than the sata and temp sensor cables on the hdd. I just prop the lcd up with an egg carton (or something about 3 inches high that is soft and light) and access the hdd that way. The only thing I ever have trouble with are is putting the LCD screws back in around the magnets - but I have pretty much perfected that with a sissor/ tweezer tool.
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Rotate the display out of the outer case enough to disconnect the LED backlight power cable from the LED driver board.
I found it easier to very slightly lift the front edge of the black connector with a small spudger, then gently pulling away towards the bottom of the iMac. Pressing felt a little crude and didn’t work for me.
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Squeeze the two display data cable connector arms together to unlock it from its socket on the logic board.
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Pull the display data cable connector away from its socket on the logic board.
Aperte as duas exibição do conector do cabo de dados braços juntos para desbloqueá-lo de seu soquete na placa lógica.
Il vaut mieux déconnecter la partie du côté écran en premier (sous l'autocollant noir)
Je suis d’accord. C’est plus facile. Merci mon ami
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Disconnect the LCD thermal sensor cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
This is important regarding the fan running full speed
Is there a way to test the power supply to see if it's dead?
Achtung! Dieser Stecker kann sehr fest sitzen, hier hilft ein guter Fingernagel um den Stecker abwechselnd rechts und links zu Hebeln
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Carefully pull the display toward the top edge of your iMac and lift it out of the outer case, minding any cables that may get caught.
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Remove the following four screws securing the power supply to the outer case:
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Two 22.2 mm fine-thread T10 Torx
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One 25 mm coarse-thread T10 Torx
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One 9 mm coarse-thread T10 Torx
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Carefully lift the power supply out of the outer case and rotate it to expose the cable lock as shown, minding the DC-Out cable still attaching it to the iMac.
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Disconnect the DC-In cable by depressing the locking mechanism on the connector while you pull the connector away from its socket on the power supply.
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Once the locking mechanism has cleared the socket, pull the DC-In connector away from the power supply.
I found my DC-In cable VERY difficult to detach. I depressed the locking mechanism, but still needed to use my iFixit Jimmy to carefully, gently, slowly work the cable connector (male) loose and away from the power supply (female).
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Disconnect the AC-In cable by depressing the locking mechanism while pulling the connector away from its socket.
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Remove the power supply from the outer case.
This was not easy to disconnect with one hand holding the power supply (being careful while holding just to be cautious against any possible electrical discharge). Note that the connector is not on power supply side but on AC-In cable side. Couldn't quite see well enough from photo shown, but hold on the AC-In side of cable connector (depressing the locking mechanism of the male side) and pull away from the Power Supply (female side) cable.
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Pull the optical drive thermal sensor connector straight away from its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the four 9 mm T10 Torx screws securing the optical drive to the outer case.
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Lift the inner edge of the optical drive and maneuver its connector past the frame attached to the logic board.
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Carefully pull the optical drive off its mounting pins on the edge of the outer case to gain clearance for disconnecting the optical drive cable.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to help disconnect the optical drive cable.
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Remove the single 13 mm T10 Torx screw securing the optical drive fan to the outer case.
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Pull the optical drive off the pins attached to the outer case.
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Pull the optical drive fan connector away from its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the optical drive fan from the iMac.
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Pull the left and right speaker connectors toward the right side of the iMac to disconnect them from the logic board.
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Disconnect the audio port cable by pulling its connector toward the right side of the iMac.
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Disconnect the AirPort cable by lifting its connector off the socket on the logic board.
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Disconnect the following cables by pulling their connectors toward the top edge of the iMac:
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Camera cable
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Hard drive thermal sensor
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Hard drive fan
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Microphone
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Disconnect the following cables by pulling their connectors toward the right edge of the iMac:
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Ambient temperature sensor
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Bluetooth cable
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Disconnect the CPU fan and power button by pulling their connectors toward the left edge of the iMac.
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If present, remove the piece of tape covering the IR sensor connector.
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Disconnect the IR sensor by pulling its connector toward the top edge of the iMac.
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Use your fingers to lift IR sensor assembly straight up out of the outer case.
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Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to the outer case:
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Three 25 mm T10 Torx
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Two 21.5 mm T10 Torx
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One 7 mm T10 Torx
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These photos do not show this iMac's optional configuration that contains a discreet GPU. If a GPU card is present there is another Torx screw that must be removed that holds an additional heat sink to the upper right corner of the enclosure. Note that in this configuration, the optical drive fan has a different configuration with a plastic separator that points towards the top of the iMac. This looks to serve as channel for airflow and is noteworthy because it makes the optical drive's SATA connector much more difficult to remove and quite difficult (for me anyway) to reassemble as it is a very tight fit!
I made it to this step, then carefully removed dust from the back part, not touching any components, then used compressed air to get dust out since getting the whole logic board was a challenge, assembled and when I turn it on it loads normally, white screen with the logo, but then the screen goes black, and then the fans start running at the actual speed (I used SMC fan control) I had before I unplugged it to clean it, what could have happened? thank you =(
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Remove the plastic ducts from the side of the LED driver board and the hard drive by pulling them away from the outer case.
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Carefully remove the aluminum tape attaching the GPU heat sink to the outer case.
OMG!
I cannot believe it!
Only by attaching one side of the golden GPU sionk with aluminum tape on the case, is it possible to well handle the thermal dissipation from the GPU
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Carefully pull the logic board slightly away from the outer case.
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While holding the board away from the outer case, rotate the board back and forth while lifting up to release it from the outer case.
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Now that the lower edge of the board is free from the outer case, rotate the logic board toward yourself to expose its rear face.
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Carefully pull the optical drive connector away from its socket on the logic board.
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Disconnect the DC-In cable from the logic board by simultaneously depressing the locking lever on the connector while pulling it away from its socket.
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Remove the logic board from the outer case.
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Use a pair of tweezers to lift the heat sink thermal sensor connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the following six screws securing the heat sink to the logic board:
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Five 6.5 mm T8 Torx
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One 7 mm T10 Torx
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Lift the heat sink bracket off the logic board.
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Carefully lift the logic board off the heat sink.
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Carefully pull the CPU retaining bar away from the CPU socket.
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Rotate the bar toward the center of the logic board.
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Rotate the CPU clamp away from the CPU.
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Carefully lift the CPU straight up off its socket.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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7 comentários
Hello I fixit.!
Hello a lot of congrats! for your site! is very very helpfully for Mac Users
so. i have a question please if you want to help me.!
i have an i mac 21,5 late2009
3,06ghz intel core 2 duo
i have an idea to change the processor to. intel core i5 3,3 Ghz core
can be compatible . on main board .
thanks a lot for your time
Hello,
I'd like to upgrade the Core 2 Duo 3.06 CPU of my iMac 10,1 21.5". I already done the same operation in a white Core Duo iMac, being able to install the unsupported OS X 10.7. I'd like to do the same on the 10,1 but what CPU can I install? It seems that the i3, i5 or i7 are phisically different, am I right? And the user Tim report in being unable to make it work with a Core 2 Quad. So... what are the possibilities? Thanks!
dear ifitxit guys.. i have a 27" imac 306 dual. has anyone one tried to your knowledge using the q9550s quad core with any success. this could be an "ultimate" upgrade bringing it very close in speed to the i7s. seeing how th q9550s is running around 100 dollars on ebay it could make a very affordable upgrade. please let us know if you have any info on this. thanks
It is impossible to replace a socket 775 cpu with an i3 , i5, i7 series , regardless the generation . They fit into a completely different socket . So , if you are lucky , maybe a Q6600 will work , as it's socket 775 core 2 quad cpu , 1066 mhz . Or a faster core 2 duo . Nothing else .
In order for the logic board to come out cleanly, one should remove the RAM at the end of this step.
kevmacmills - Responder
Definitely! The author should make this as a step in the description (because not everyone reads Comments)
finnik2d - Responder
Just did this procedure and the RAM must absolutely come out for the logic board to come free later.
matt - Responder