Introdução
Remove your display panel to gain access to the hard drive, optical drive, and power supply.
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Loosen the single Phillips screw in the center of the access door.
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Remove the access door from your iMac.
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Stick two suction cups to opposing corners of the glass panel.
My GPS unit's car mount suction cup worked nicely here - couldn't find any at the store and didn't want to wait for mail order!
Two cups would make it easier but one is fine if you place it in the center and are careful to pull the panel straight out.
Why use suction cups when some finger nails will do the job nicely, though a plastic spudger might work too. Start at a top corner. Prize the glass away from the case and leave finger nails in. Move the other hand along the top edge and then with finger spread peel the screen cover away. Be careful not to twist plastic I suppose, but I've had no difficulties.
3M Command Strip hooks in opposite corners is another fabulous option when suction cups are not available!
Suction cups usually available at Home Depot or Lowes, in the flooring section. (They're used to handle large ceramic & stone floor tiles.)
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Gently pull the glass panel straight up off the iMac.
In order to avoid unnecessary smudges and what not I covered the LCD itself with some plastic wrap while doing the hard drive upgrade. When I reinstalled it all I needed to do was blow off a few dust particles.
While you are at it, it is worth cleaning out dust within the case to help with cooling - particularly around the fans and vents.
For the screen I used a lens cleaner from my camera bag. These have very fine fibers and won't leave detritus.
Note that the front glass panel is quite light. When reassembling I found it impossible to get the LCD free of dust with the computer lying on its back. I had success with standing the computer up, tilting the LCD down as far as it goes, holding the glass panel upright in front of the computer (about 1 foot away), lightly spraying both the LCD and the back side of the glass panel with compressed air, and then attaching the glass panel (with the computer upright). It took me 5 tries before it was completely clean of dust once the front glass was on.
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Remove the following 12 screws securing the front bezel to the rear case:
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Eight 13 mm T8 Torx.
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Four 25 mm T8 Torx.
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Note for the less experienced.. the case is plastic and the metal coarse thread screws will easily cut a new thread in the hole if you don't line up the screw in the original thread. Do this a few times and the hole will be stripped and the screw no longer tightens.
TIP:- place the screw in the hole and rotate BACKWARDS/counter clockwise (for RH threads) until you hear/feel it click/drop into the original thread then tighten the screw down. rotate it a couple times to get the feel of things. If there is any significant resistance you probably don't have the original thread.
This trick also works on the fine metal thread screws and can help avoid cross threading them.
HIH
This step is not really explained here with pictures. But you can check this same step in another guide to help you : iMac Intel 20" EMC 2266 Front Bezel Replacement
I think you're missing this step: With the iMac lying on its back screen facing up, grasp the aluminum sides of the bezel and carefully pull it straight up. Then disconnect the microphone cable. Took me a while to figure it out.
I found it helpful to use a few lids from spaghetti sauce jars to hold the different screws. I used a sharpie to mark the inside of the lid w/ location taken from or the step number from directions. Then I placed a small magnet under the lid to hold the screws inside the lid in case I accidentally jostle something on the table. Worked great! You can also use a magnetic knife bar to line up the lids in sequential for the project.
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Disconnect the microphone cable connector, removing tape as necessary.
I avoided this step by just flipping the housing over and having it lay flat on the table. The tape on mine was on really tight, and I risking ripping the wires out of the connector if I messed with it (I didn't have some really small scissors which might have helped removing it). I would suggest either securing the body of the iMac and the housing to the table you're working on, or somehow securing the housing to the body, so that it doesn't move around accidentally, since it's only hanging on by a very thin wire at that point.
Make sure you do not pull this apart by the wires. Have a firm grasp on the plastic parts. Do not force back together. It only goes back together one way. Also, it is crucial when placing the aluminum bezel back in place that this wire is out of the way. It often gets in the way and is easily damaged.
CAUTION - To disconnect the cable, you'll need to support the bezel while you carefully extract slack microphone cable which is tightly tucked within the iMac. (I didn't have this guide's 'notes on' and missed robgendreau's warning - then inadvertently shifted the bezel and busted my microphone cable in this step.)
Don't forget to pull the microphone cord out before you put the panel back on. Otherwise you will have to go back and remove screws to find that microphone cord
As robgendreau says, avoid this whole step by opening the bezel and laying it upside down above the iMac, still connected by the mic cord, just carefully. Then replace the battery, suck/blow out your dust, and carefully rotate the front bezel back over the iMac from where you removed it. No cord manipulation or damage at all!
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Pull the LCD temperature sensor connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
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If necessary, de-route the LCD temperature sensor cable from behind the logic board.
This was the most confusing step, because the video shows MJ just tilting the monitor open, and I had a ribbon cable hooked up to it. Finally figured out that the ribbon cable was connected to the LCD temp sensor cable, and it was neatly tucked under the adjacent fan. Had to pull it pretty hard to get it out from under the fan, and then could tilt the LCD. Instructions are not completely clear about this, only that you may have to reroute the cable around the motherboard.
I agree, there is no sign of how to remove the bezel (it took me several minutes to understand it was even the bezel that came off here) in these steps (in all the guides for this model, in fact). On step 4 says remove the LCD screws, and suddenly step 6 shows innards and fans etc - !! - What about showing the bezel being removed here - super confusing and not up to usual ifixit high standards.
If you rush through the reassembly, it's very easy to miss reconnecting the LCD Temp Display cable. I just did it and one of the fans came on full-speed and stayed there through a new macOS install. Did a Google search and found mention of this symptom. At first I was thinking I switched one or more of the inverter cables but this guide shows that this is not a problem. Once I reviewed this step, the problem was obvious as was the solution. Thanks again, iFixit, for saving my nappy behind.
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Remove the two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws securing the data display cable to the logic board.
Removing these screws was the most difficult part of the whole job. They were tight and felt as if the heads were about to chew up. I had to press really hard and jerk the screwdriver counter clockwise to loosen them. Despite others' warnings, I managed to drop a screw when reinserting.
The only tool I needed to buy was the T6 Star Bit - the first auto store I went to had it. These screws are tiny so you have to be careful not to drop them!
Yes, this step is very difficult. I finally used a magnet to magnetize the torx driver, and that helped immensely...however, that was AFTER I lost the right one inside the computer. You really only need one screw to reattach the monitor connector, however.
Argh! I dropped my right screw into the bowels of the iMac. I can't find it anywhere and am loath to leave it rattling around as well as to tear down the machine any further.
Well, I followed the instructions for right-speaker removal and optical drive fan removal and still couldn't find the right screw. I couldn't hear it rattle either so figured it was wedged somewhere. Using an inspection mirror and flashlight, I finally found it. It had fallen down and wedged between the PCB and the plastic housing (below the ports). I was able to slide it toward the right until it came to the void left by the right speaker where it fell out into my hand.
It's true, these were super tight. I only had a T5 which worked on the first screw, but the second wouldn't budge. Ended up filing the tip off the T5 bit - presto! - instant T6.
Note that just below where you are working is the PRAM battery. If you have never replaced this, now is a good time so you won't have to open the machine up again in the near future. The battery is a CR2032.
Taking all the warnings into account about losing these tiny screws, during removal and replacement I held onto the screws tightly with a very fine needle nose tweezer. Fortunately I managed not to lose them either out or in. I highly recommend using a small gripper during this step.
This step together with step 8 can be avoided. Leave this cable alone. You will have plenty of space to lift the LCD and rest it against a wall or any other object. Again...
1) don't waste your time if you know what you are doing
2) don't complicate things and remove unecessary cables.
This is true. There's plenty of space to work without taking the whole LCD out, either by resting it on your head, having someone hold it, or propping it on something. This makes steps 7, 8, and 10 unnecessary.
hillman -
These screws are Torx 7 - at least that was what
I used on them and got a prefect tight fit ... .
torx 6 didn't do it, needed torx 7
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Use the attached black tab to pull the data display cable connector away from the logic board.
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Remove the eight 12 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display panel to the rear case.
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Lift the display panel from its left edge and rotate it toward the right edge of the iMac.
I was able to disconnect the two connectors to the front easily. With those off, I just rotated the LCD out of the way to expose the hard drive. Again, make sure it's stabilized if you do this so that when you yank on something else you don't send it flying.
I did a HD replacement on my 24 inch iMac. It's basically the same, but it does not have disconnectable invertercables. Instead, there's just one cable that's can't be disconnected. It sits too tight to rotate the display to the degree that you can lean it against something, so the only way to get the job done was to call in an extra set of hands to hold the display while I took out the hard drive.
On the 2134 model, I found that the LCD must be lifted from the RIGHT (not the left as per the 2133 guide) - the connector wires are covered in nylon housing and it's way easier just having someone hold the LCD vertical whilst you replace the HDD, unless you have small fingers and feel like disconnecting completely ...
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With the display panel still lifted, disconnect the four inverter cables.
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If you are replacing a hard drive and have an extra set of hands, it is possible to reach in and remove the drive without disconnecting anything but the LCD temp and display connector in the previous step with the LCD in its propped position.
This was the only step different for my 2134 - it is just one cable that connects to the monitor - disconnect the monitor end rather than the motherboard side.
For 24" iMacs, a single power cable is attached on the left side of the screen. To remove the cable, lift the screen from the right side and rotate it to the left. Remove the black plastic protector on the back of the screen and disconnect the cable.
So does it matter which ones are connected to which?
That is, at each end there are two connectors (one pink/black the other light blue/dark blue on the "male" side). The "female side appear identical. Does it matter if the pink/black "male" one is connected to the wrong "female" one?
Mark, did you ever get an answer about the connectors?
Mike -
Agreed this is an unspecified issue and i'm surprised it's not covered? Did everyone else just guess?
Managed to avoid this step just lifting the lcd panel and holding it with my... head ;)
I'm trying to find some information on replacing the power supply temperature sensor cable. Mine broke during removal of a bad power supply.
found out that taking the 2 inverter cables (top right corner underneath LCD) and mixing them will not work. I got beeping sound. So...you really need to mark the 2 white sockets with P (pink) and B (for light blue-gray color). Then everything will come out smoothly. Again... inserting the 2 inverter cable sets into the right socket DOES MATTER.
Re: Scorps comment above - I got the “beeping” too. Does anyone know how to resolve it, i.e. identify which goes with which? Other than trying every combination?
My screen is just Grey? anyone else have this happen?
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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isn't it actually pc2-5300s ?
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