This Adapter Kit is used to replace the LCD screen in the iMac 17" Intel model. These models are notorius for developing hundreds of vertical lines due to a manufacturing defect. You may also wish to use this if you have cracked or otherwise damaged your screen.

  1. Loosen the two captive Phillips screws securing the access door to the iMac.
    • Loosen the two captive Phillips screws securing the access door to the iMac.

    • Remove the access door from the iMac.

    • Before beginning the repair, unplug the computer and press and hold the power switch for 20-30 seconds, to discharge internal capacitors.

    That is a really, really unnecessarily complex way of fitting a new hard drive. Thanks, but no thanks...

    annax - Responder

    Quote from annax:

    That is a really, really unnecessarily complex way of fitting a new hard drive. Thanks, but no thanks...

    annax, if you can suggest a simpler way we're all ears!

    Jake Simmonds - Responder

    I found this guide to be very useful. The installation was super easy, especially since I've never opened my iMac before. I was able to skip steps 6, 7, 9, 10 and 14. Wish I had one of those long skinny magnetic torx screwdriver's though. I had to use duct tape to hold the screws on the end of the bit for step 12.

    I used this opportunity to vacuum out the dust with mini attachments. Much needed after 3 years ;0)

    Awesome site!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and saving me time and $$$!

    Eric Patten - Responder

    Yes I did it! thanks for this very good manual

    Philippe d Anfray - Responder

  2. Remove the following four screws:
    • Remove the following four screws:

      • Three 6 mm T8 Torx.

      • One 8 mm T8 Torx.

    T8's on the MA590LL 17" iMac.

    Endareth - Responder

    8mm screw is 2nd from left - useful when reassembly

    Stefano Speriani - Responder

    • Flip your iMac over and lay it stand-side down on a flat surface.

    • To lift the front bezel off the iMac, simultaneously:

      • Use your thumbs to press in the RAM arms and hold the iMac down.

      • Use your index fingers to pull the small bridge of material on the front bezel toward yourself.

      • Pull the Front bezel up with your index fingers.

    • Once the small bridge of material has cleared the RAM arms, lift the front bezel by its lower edge just enough to clear the bottom edge of the rear case.

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    • Re-orient your iMac so it sits upright on the stand.

    • Insert a plastic card up into the corner of the air vent slot near the top of the rear case.

    • Push the card toward the top of the iMac to release the front bezel latch.

    • Pull the front bezel away from the rear case.

    • Repeat this process for the other side of the front bezel.

    • It may be necessary to apply several layers of duct tape to the top of the access card to aid in releasing the latches.

    • If the bezel refuses to release, try pressing the lower edge back onto the rear case and repeat this opening process.

    Apple uses a powerful magnet to release these latches, but the official tool is not available. If you have access to a few failed hard drives, you can take out the magnets from those, and stack them up to have a magnet strong enough to easily open these latches.

    Simply place the magnet on an upper corner of the machine, and when you hear a click, gently pull the corner of the front case forward. Repeat the process for the other upper corner. Use care not to pull on the iSight cables.

    Note: Use care when handling the hard drive magnets, they are powerful, and you don't want them to snap together on your fingers. OUCH!

    Zaphod - Responder

    You can use a credit card. Mine survived, though it did get a little bent.

    David Bendory - Responder

    I used two credit cards for extra thickness and the latches released very easily.

    James French - Responder

    The magnetic latches are about 2-3 cm from the left and right edges right at the top edge of the case. I just ran a rare-earth magnet over the from of the bezel in this area. You can hear it click when it disengages. RadioShack has these kind of magnets for $3, the call them "super magnets".

    James - Responder

    This was a nuisance. Had to really move the card around to get it to finally release.

    Tim Dougherty - Responder

    Be very careful not to damage the metal clips with a credit card. My iMac was very stubborn and I ended up bending the clips in a way they cannot be bent back. The clips do still work and the front bezel does still go back on, however it no longer sits flush with the back of the iMac.

    Gary Lefebvre - Responder

    • Lay your iMac stand-side down on a table.

    • Lift the front bezel from its lower edge and rotate it away from the rest of your iMac, minding the RAM arms that may get caught.

    • Lay the front bezel above the rest of the iMac.

    I found that it is much easier if you remove the top of the case first, then lay computer back on the stand & remove the bottom as directed.

    G A Long - Responder

    • If necessary, remove the piece of kapton tape(it is ok to toss this) wrapped around the microphone and camera cables.

    I was able to skip Steps 6 & 7 entirely. The microphone and camera cables had enough slack to flip the front cover off and lie it flat above the rest of the computer.

    Carly Hobeef - Responder

    Step 4 is completely unnessecary. Just lift the bezel up and wiggle it until the metal clips let go. Then lift the bezel straight up.

    Cloudsurfer - Responder

    • Disconnect both the camera and microphone cables.

    Make sure the white wire is on the same side of both parts of the connector before reconnecting.

    It is possible to reconnect the microphone cable in the wrong/reversed orientation with the connector. The microphone will still work but will be muted and result in a "tinny" sound on the receiver's end.

    creecher - Responder

    Can anyone ID these connectors (at least the camera connector) so that I may make an extension (to move the camera out and re-house it myself). I probably have the gear to do the mic already.

    Is the camera connector some standard I can order M & F versions online to terminate to an extension cable?

    hutchwilco - Responder

    • Peel up the lower EMI shield from the rear case.

    • It is only necessary to peel the shield up from three sides. Leave it attached to the display.

    • We have found it helpful to tape the EMI shield against the display to keep it out of the way.

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    • Remove the two 4.8 mm T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable to the logic board.

    • Grab the display data cable connector by its black tab and pull it straight up off the logic board.

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    • Inverter cable on 24inch iMac pulls off to the left.

    • Pull the inverter cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    The inverter connector had a different location for me. It was situated next to the top left corner of the right speaker, just under the display. I didn't figure this out until I actually lifted the display off the computer.

    Cloudsurfer - Responder

    My 17" iMac also has the inverter cable. It located in the upper right just below the display.

    Clinton - Responder

    I couldnt get this cable off, so I skipped this step. If you have this problem, just proceed; when you get to step 13, lift the display carefully as this cable will still be attached. You'll now easily be able to grip the connector and remove it.

    David Bendory - Responder

    • Peel back the aluminum EMI tape from the two vertical edges of the display.

    • During reassembly, it is helpful to use several small strips of tape to hold the EMI shielding along the left and right edges of the display footprint out of the way before lowering the display into the rear case of your iMac.

    Only peel back the black EMI tape that overlaps the edge of the display, not the silver tape on the display itself.

    Odesseus - Responder

    The above note sounds as if one should peel the aluminum-foil colored tape back from the frame. Do NOT do this; instead, peel the BLACK-colored aluminum tape back from the display frame to reveal the crevice between the display and the case and the mounting screws you are about to remove.

    Byron Bray - Responder

    I didn't actually need to peel anything at all. The screws would have been visible had I looked more carefully.

    David Bendory - Responder

    • Allow the EMI shield to hang down from the display.

    • Remove the four 8 mm with 2 mm thick head coarse-thread T10 Torx screws securing the display to the rear case.

    • These screws are recessed, so a thin screwdriver such as this is essential for removal. Bit drivers tend to be too short for this application.

    • It is strongly recommended to use a magnetized screwdriver so the screws won't fall into the iMac.

    To put the T10 screws back, you'll need a magnetic head T10 screwdriver or a long, tweezer-like device found in a good set of computer tools. The screws are WAY down there and it is difficult if not impossible without the right tools.

    Monkee - Responder

    If your thin torx driver is not magnetized, you can hold another, magnetized, driver against it as a temporary solution.

    Si Brindley - Responder

    If you really want to tackle it without proper tools: with a non-magnetised thin torx loosen the screw till its ready to come out, then wrap a little bit of duct tape (sticky side out) around the head of a spare thin screwdriver, gently push the duct taped screwdriver on top of the loosened screw. The magic tape will lift the screws out.

    When re-assembling, it's also a good way to fish out the screws that missed the holes completely when your expert fingers skills are classed as clumsy.

    Mark - Responder

    You must have a magnetized Torx 10, 2 to 3 inches in length to safely get these screws out. Fortunately if you have the T10 you can magnetize it with your iMac.

    Inside the front bezel are two magnets that hold your apple remote to the case, simply tap the T10 to the larger magnet 3 or 4 times and test it's strength in holding a weighty screw. You are good to go. I did this and the scary lose a screw into the iMac was diminished with a firm hold in both removal and install.

    rwpete63 - Responder

    If you don't have a magnetic screwdriver or they are aluminum screws, you can use this old mechanics tip: Use a small piece of paper or celophane tape on the head of the screw, then press the screwdriver into it, this creates a nice snug hold so you can reinstall the screws.

    Greg Olson - Responder

    I was able to slightly bend the plastic case to get my driver to seat. This was the most challenging part of the teardown and reassembly because I did not have the proper tool.

    Tim Dougherty - Responder

    • Lift the display from its lower edge and pull it toward yourself to peel off the EMI shield attached to its top edge.

    • Be mindful of any cables that may get caught during removal.

    Steps 14 & 15; If you remove the top screw, and just loosen the bottom screw you can rotate the optical drive clip out of the way, tighten it, then screw the top screw back in to hold the logic board down for later trying to remove the connector. You also save three more parts kicking around on the desktop.

    dentoni - Responder

    • What you will need to complete this install:

    • Contents of UniMac V4 Adapter Kit:

      • UniMac V4 Adapter

      • Mounting brackets

      • CCFL Adapter

      • Phillips Screws

    • Required tools listed prior, compatible LCD panel, insulation tape (clear packing tape works well)

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    • Remove both metal brackets from the original LCD screen.

      • Remove 2 torx screws from each side. Each bracket should then be easily removed.

    • Remove the LCD inverter from the metal bracket. It is held in with some light adhesive.

      • You can use a spudger to lift the inverter board slightly. Then it will come out easily.

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    • Attach the included plastic adapters to the replacement LCD screen.

      • These must be used because the replacement screen is likely much thinner than the OEM panel.

      • The adapter with the larger leg space has to be mounted on the "right" side of the LCD. That's where the LVDS connector is located.

    • The brackets screw directly to the screen using the included phillips screws.

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    • Attach the UniMac V4 Adapter to the LCD screen.

      • Simply clip it into the LVDS socket.

      • Ensure a solid connection and then put a piece of packing tape over the adapter.

    • Attach the LVDS cable, that you removed earlier, to the UniMac V4 Adapter. Ensure a solid connection and put a piece of packing tape over it.

    • Check the contact alignment. The contact springs have to be all in the right place! Generally, if the most outer pins are properly seated, the other pins will fit, too.

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    • Attach the included CCFL adapter to the original inverter board.

    • Apply some self adhesive tape at the bottom of the board.

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    • Fix the LVDS cable with some adhesive tape. This reduces mechanical force applied to the UniMac Adapter and makes the modification more stable.

    • Now place the inverter board at the left side of the LCD. There's enough room between the CD-ROM drive and the LCD, so there's the optimal place.

    • You should now have a fully assembled display ready for install.

      • Be very careful not to apply too much force when attaching the adhesive tape. The back of the LCD is very sensitive!

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    • Vertical alignment:

      • Each bracket utilizes 2 screws mounted through 2 slots. This allows a few inches of movement up or down.

    • You will likely need to go back and make adjustments after the install.

      • Just loosen the 2 screws and slide the bracket up or down as needed and then tighten screws.

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    • Mounting screen:

      • Mount the screen using the original torx screws used the mount the OEM panel.

    • Plug the LVDS cable into the logic board.

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    • Reassembly and test:

    • Double check everything and once you are confident everything went well, install the front bezel.

    • Attach the power cable, and hit the power button.

    • You should now be greeted by a white screen and the Apple logo.

    • It should now be apparent if any alignment adjustments need to be made.

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    • Trouble:

      • Should you have any install issues please contact for assistance.

    why the screen is so blue?

    borninmeadowmuffins - Responder

    I tried to buy this adapter, but it seems the person that ownes realmacmods doesn't have these any more as I bought and paid for one HD v4 , I waited 3 weeks sent 4-5 emails to him asking where the part was. He never replied to any of my emails. Before i bought the adapter he gave me the info on which screen to buy so i bought his adapter he took my money and that was the end of any communication. So I open a despute at paypal and I am still waiting for some response from Adam Barscheski (AKA REALMACMODS) maybe he will respond but I dont think so . Maybe I'm wrong if so i will recant my post but for the time being it be best Not to throw your money away till he gets his affairs in order and start taking care of Biz.

    vtails - Responder

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Member since: 17-08-2011

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Very easy repair. Thank you!

Chris - Responder

My replacement screen has two wired out puts to put into the ccfl adaptor. The screen is one known to work.

Is correct? - Responder

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