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ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement

O que você precisa

  1. ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Confirm Mainboard Failure, Part 1: passo 1, imagem 1 %32
    • Before replacing the mainboard, it is important to thoroughly troubleshoot the problem to ensure that it's the source of the issue.

    • Normally, the mainboard produces a short beep about 10 seconds after powerup. If it doesn't beep, then it's probably dead.

    • If the printer produces multiple or repeated beeps, it is a sign that the mainboard is likely functional, but there may be another component that has failed, such as a dead CMOS battery or bad memory.

    • Refer to Step 8 for further diagnosis.

    • Another indication is the front display - If all pixels remain black, it may be an indication that the mainboard is dead. If the display does not light up at all, like in the photo, it may be a sign of a different issue, such as a dead power supply for the electronics module.

  2. ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Remove the Cover of the Electronics Module: passo 2, imagem 1 %32
    • Power down the printer and disconnect all cables from the electronics module on the back.

    • Remove the cover by unscrewing the 6 screws and setting it aside.

    • You do not need to remove the entire electronics module from the printer, only its cover. Remove only the screws indicated in the photo to access the mainboard.

  3. ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Confirm Mainboard Failure, Part 2: passo 3, imagem 1 %32
    • After powering up the printer, allow it to run for at least 10 minutes. Check the temperature of the board on the back side of the CPU (marked red). If it is hot (> 50°C), this may indicate a burnt-out CPU.

    • Additionally, you can check if the original CPU fan is functional. If it does not work, this may also indicate a burnt-out CPU. Refer to Step 9 for further instructions on how to check.

    • Caution: The power inlet and wires are located above the mainboard. Be sure to exercise caution and take necessary safety precautions to avoid the risk of electric shock.

    • The photo shows the status LEDs of a properly functioning printer, which may be useful for diagnostics if your printer is experiencing a different issue.

  4. ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Prepare the New Mainboard for Installation: passo 4, imagem 1 %32 ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Prepare the New Mainboard for Installation: passo 4, imagem 2 %32
    • Once you have confirmed that you have a faulty mainboard and purchased a replacement, you need to prepare it before installation.

    • Begin by replacing the original fan as a preventative measure to avoid future issues. Use the best fluid dynamic bearing fan you can find, such as the Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX featured in the photo. Any other high quality 40x40x10 mm fan with a 12V 3-pin connector will work as well. Don't forget to connect the fan cable.

    • Next, replace the original CMOS battery (CR2032 type) as a preventative measure, as the mainboard may have been in a warehouse for eight or more years, causing the original battery to die.

    • Caution: Be aware that some variants of the mainboard do not come equipped with a CPU fan. If this is the case, you must add a fan to prevent the CPU from overheating and burning out.

    • Mainboards produced at different times may use different screws for the CPU fan, which may present some difficulties during installation. If necessary, purchase 2.5x15 mm wood screws or M2.5x15 screws with washers.

  5. ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Remove the Original Mainboard from the Printer: passo 5, imagem 1 %32
    • Before removing the mainboard, unplug all cables from the printer and remove the 4 screws as indicated in the photo.

    • Gently pull on the left vertical edge of the mainboard, being mindful of the resistance that you will feel as a PCI riser card disconnects (see Step 7 for more details).

  6. ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Transfer Components to the New Mainboard: passo 6, imagem 1 %32 ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Transfer Components to the New Mainboard: passo 6, imagem 2 %32
    • Place a pedestal on the ground to support the original mainboard while you work on it; a cardboard box works well.

    • Review all the components that you need to move to the new mainboard:

    • DDR memory stick

    • Small Parallel ATA solid state hard drive

    • Power supply converter and connector

    • White ribbon cable for the "power button" header

    • It's important to connect the white flat cable exactly as shown in the second photo, otherwise the printer signal will not be able to boot up the mainboard. Also, ensure that you put the hard drive into the correct PATA slot.

    • If you can, make a backup of the drive (see Step 8 as to why). You will need another PC with a PATA adapter and imaging software for this task because there are several different partitions on it. The drive is powered via thin cable from Molex connector, so you will need to borrow it from the printer. The drive has 64 MB capacity.

  7. ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Install the New Mainboard into the Printer: passo 7, imagem 1 %32 ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Install the New Mainboard into the Printer: passo 7, imagem 2 %32
    • This part is a bit tricky, because you need to connect the mainboard onto PCI riser card as you slide it in.

    • Begin by placing the mainboard connectors onto the I/O shield at an angle, as shown in the first photo.

    • Gently push the left edge of the board and verify that the riser card is properly mating with the PCI slot, indicated by green arrows in the second photo.

    • If everything looks good, push the mainboard all the way onto the hexagonal mounting posts and secure it in place with screws

  8. ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Test the Printer for Standalone Functionality: passo 8, imagem 1 %32 ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Test the Printer for Standalone Functionality: passo 8, imagem 2 %32 ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Test the Printer for Standalone Functionality: passo 8, imagem 3 %32
    • Before connecting the Ethernet cable, test if the new mainboard has resolved the issue that caused the fault.

    • Do not connect Ethernet cable at this point, otherwise the printer will not boot.

    • Connect a PS/2 keyboard and a VGA monitor to the mainboard. Plug in the power cord of the printer and turn it on. The mainboard should beep and show the BIOS logo. It may stop and report corrupted CMOS settings due to the battery replacement in Step 4.

    • Enter the BIOS by pressing the Delete or F1 key and choose to Save settings, as shown in the second photo. This will save default CMOS settings and the mainboard will reboot itself. It should then boot into the printer firmware, with an ASCII GUI similar to the third photo. The small display at the front of the printer should also function now.

    • If you encounter any issues, troubleshoot as you would with a regular PC. Check for loose cables/connectors, improperly seated components, faulty power supply, faulty memory, BIOS errors, etc.

    • The worst problem would be a faulty storage drive since it stores calibration data for valves, rollers, and other mechanical components which were uniquely tuned in the factory. If you need my HDD image from one Zprinter 650 in Acronis, contact me, but keep in mind that it probably won't work well with another printer.

  9. ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Verify Proper Fan Operation: passo 9, imagem 1 %32
    • After the printer is running, confirm that the new CPU fan is mounted and plugged in correctly. You can check if it is rotating by using a small mirror or by carefully feeling it with your finger, as shown in the photo.

    • Tie up nearby cables to prevent them from moving and blocking the fan.

    • Caution: The power inlet and wires are located above the mainboard. Be sure to exercise caution and take necessary safety precautions to avoid the risk of electric shock.

  10. ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Configure BIOS Settings, Part 1: passo 10, imagem 1 %32 ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Configure BIOS Settings, Part 1: passo 10, imagem 2 %32 ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Configure BIOS Settings, Part 1: passo 10, imagem 3 %32
    • To prevent the printer firmware from freezing when you connect the Ethernet cable, you must adjust some settings in the BIOS. Specifically, you need to disable certain onboard devices to avoid IRQ conflicts. Since the firmware runs on FreeDOS, which is not a Plug and Play OS, these adjustments are necessary.

    • While I do not recall the exact settings that need to be changed, I have taken photos of a working printer that can serve as a template.

    • Update as of 2022: I have set up a printer with a dead CMOS battery and found that you must set "Floppy Drive A" to "Not Installed".

  11. ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Configure BIOS Settings, Part 2: passo 11, imagem 1 %32 ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Configure BIOS Settings, Part 2: passo 11, imagem 2 %32 ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Configure BIOS Settings, Part 2: passo 11, imagem 3 %32
    • iFixit limits the number of photos per step to three, as such I had to split the BIOS settings into two steps. Notably, the Peripheral Setup setting is likely the most crucial.

    • Once you have adjusted the necessary settings, remember to save them before allowing the printer to boot into its ASCII GUI.

    • Update as of 2022: I recently configured a printer with a dead CMOS battery and found that you must set "Onboard FDC" to "Disabled".

  12. ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Test Printer for Networked Functionality: passo 12, imagem 1 %32 ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Test Printer for Networked Functionality: passo 12, imagem 2 %32 ZPrinter 650 Mainboard Replacement, Test Printer for Networked Functionality: passo 12, imagem 3 %32
    • Connect the Ethernet cable to the printer and observe the ASCII GUI. Normally, some values change every second and should continue to do so after you plug in the cable. If the firmware freezes, double-check the BIOS settings.

    • During boot, the firmware displays various information (as shown in the second photo). If the printer consistently freezes at a particular stage upon rebooting, that may be the issue. Unfortunately, the only way to reboot from frozen firmware is to turn the printer off and on again.

    • The printer should now function correctly. You should be able to connect to it immediately with ZPrint or 3DPrint software because all settings were saved on its internal HDD. Keep in mind that the new mainboard has a different MAC address, so network configuration changes may be necessary in your institution/workplace.

Conclusão

Finally, you should turn off the printer, disconnect all cables and put back cover on the electronics module. That completes the repair.

5 outras pessoas executaram este guia.

Pavel Hanak

Membro desde: 12/08/16

653 Reputação

Autoria de 2 guias

39 comentários

Please send me an image of the hd to aylward Edward at Gmail. Thanks

EDWARD AYLWARD - Responder

Check your mail if it arrived, our mailserver antivirus is a bit overzealous when it comes to "non-standard” attachments.

Pavel Hanak -

Everyone! Please don’t provide any help or information to Edward Aylward! He is from Noble 3D Printers company which defrauded my employer - we ordered binders for 1000 USD and they never delivered them. And we weren’t the only ones who they cheated:

https://www.3dhubs.com/talk/t/3d-powder-...

Pavel Hanak - Responder

Thank you for your guide. I have a used 450 and its mother board is/was bad. Someone replaced it with a different one and I am struggling with the board, still. The fan was dead on the NEW board! So I am betting its dead too. What a load of you know what for a $25,000 machine when it was new. Regards. Cismontguy Free Union VA. USA

BlueSwallowAircraft - Responder

A different board? You mean different part number than ENDAT-3220M? Please post its type or photos.

Pavel Hanak -

Hello Pavel, The board that came with the ZCorp 450, installed when I got was a different board than the ENDAT-3220M. I do not know how you past/upload a picture to this Fixit board/forum. The board I am trying to fix, replace, whatever it takes is a C3VCM6 REV: 1.0A with 1GHz speed. Looks very much like the 3220M but a little different on that narrow ribbon cable.

I would very much like to get some more help fixing this printer. BSA, LLC

BlueSwallowAircraft - Responder

In that case your best bet is to replace it with the same board as original. The boards may look similar, but they use completely different northbridge and southbridge chips. The internal printer firmware runs on Freedos, which is not plug-and-play OS, so it may not run properly on a different HW.

Pavel Hanak -

Hey @hanakp thanks for posting such detailed instructions about how to replace the ZPrinter’s mainboard! I’m trying to fix a ZPrinter 650 myself recently but I struggle a lot in finding the mainboard in the market.. I was wondering if you know any suppliers or website that might still sell them? Thanks in advance!

Jyh Heng Yu - Responder

Hello, I’ve always got ENDAT-3220M boards from Ebay, so unfortunately I don’t know any other sources. These boards were manufactured by various OEMs and many of them are nearly identical. If you find one with identical CPU, northbridge, southbridge and LAN chip, it’s a good chance it will work as a replacement. Try to ask around on some advanced PC hardware forums, for example here:

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/general-co...

It’s a gamble (like I wrote above, the firmware runs on FreeDOS), but it may be worth a shot. Alternatively, you could try to ask 3D Systems if they sell standalone boards. They refused to do that in 2015, but they do list it as a spare part number 22-15725.

Pavel Hanak -

Hi there,

Thanks for your amazing explanation and effort.

I have a zprinter 450 which gives me this error code:

Error 40901:-255

Temp sensor failed

Do you think I have to change main board,

If so where I can buy it from.

Best regards

Lucas

Lucas - Responder

Hello, I’ve never encountered this error, but you can Google them to get at least some idea what causes them. Some Zprinter service manuals are online, such as this one:

http://infocenter.3dsystems.com/product-...

According to this one, Error 40901 is caused by “This error is failure of the circuit that reads the heater temperature.“ I think they mean the air heater with fan that warms up the build after printing ends. However, the actual temperature sensor can be mounted anywhere in the build area and I don’t know where. It may be in the heater module itself and maybe the sensor itself is fine, but some wires or connectors got loose. You really need someone with expertise in electronics to identify and repair such problem. If you don’t know anyone, your best bet is to call the official Zprinter service in your country.

In any case, replacing the mainboard will NOT fix this.

Pavel Hanak -

Pavel, I have a Zprinter650 with a board issue and I wanted to discuss it with you and see if you could provide me some pictures from yours thank you for your time and this excellent post. I can be reached at westabor at gmail . thanks so much

Wes Tabor - Responder

Hi there, can you please sent me a copy of the hdd image. p7uisdev@gmail.com

Wesley Eenjes - Responder

Where I can find BIOS for 3220M Rev 3.A (VIA-800MHz). Please five me link. My email rig21ru@gmail.com

Иван Русаков - Responder

BIOS? You mean the AMIBIOS that’s on the mainboard? Why do you need it?

Pavel Hanak -

Pavel this is a fantastic article and very helpful. I currently desperately need an HD image for the 650/660. Please could you send a HD image to julestmart at gmail dot com. If I can do anything in return just let me know. Many thanks :-)

Mark - Responder

Greetings Pavel,

I hope you are doing fine. I have been looking all day for answers, and you got by far a great description and provide excellent guidance. THANK YOU!

I just got an used Zcorp 450 and for what I am reading, I need to replace the mainboard :( I looked on the web it is quite expensive:

https://www.stockcheck.com/product/unico...

I am curious to learn if an old mainboard can be fixed by replacing the CPU. Please advise.

Thanks

3d portrait PLUS - Responder

Yes, it’s possible to replace the CPU, but the real problem is to obtain a replacement one. I tried looking for them about 3 years ago, but I found nothing. Have you found them somewhere? Please provide a link if you did.

In any case, you need a SMT rework station and some other specialized equipment to replace the CPU. In practice, it looks like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d6iGqyBs...

There are companies who do this for a fee. Of course, there are people who manage to do the same with various homemade tools, but it requires a lot of experience.

Alternatively, user BlueSwallowAircraft mentioned that his printer came with C3VCM6 mainboard, so maybe you could try it? As I mentioned above, it has different chipset etc., but I think the printer firmware is universal, because 3DS haven’t updated it in ages. Plus, C3VCM6 can be bought rather cheaply, so IMO it’s worth a try. Let us know the result if you decide to go this path.

Pavel Hanak -

Greetings Pavel,

We opened he electronics panel and performed some cleaning and tested the CPU fan, to our surprise, the fan was working and we also replaced the Cr2032 battery. After this, we plugged in the printer and turned it on. We heard the 5 vital beeps so we connected the monitor and followed your instructions of step 10.

The printer was performing initial checkups but it looks like the feeder motor got stuck.

The current condition of this printer is like a car that has not been used in a long time, unfortunately it was exposed to humidity weather and has a lot of rust and mold as you can see in the pictures. We believe that there must be old powder inside the feeder.

Do you think that the binder solution in the reservoir container should be replaced?

We also not sure where is the best place to buy consumables.

Thanks

Here is the link with the pictures:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1...

Let me know if you were able to see them ok.

Thanks again.

3d portrait PLUS -

The powder is 80% plaster, so yes, it may have solidified inside the feeder if the printer sat in high humidity environment. But I don’t think you need to replace the feeder - if you remove all the old powder, it should be possible to make it moving again. The mechanism is rather complex, but with a bit of skill, patience and lot of WD40, it should be repairable. As for the mold, I can’t really help you, I’ve never encountered it. Is it really mold? Does it smell or something? The same with binder - if it looks suspect, you could replace it, but again, purging the tanks is an arduous task because you must not leave any solid contaminants inside (they would clog the print heads).

Even if your PC fan works, I recommend to replace it, it will probably fail soon anyway.

As for consumables, we’re using aftermarket ones from Canada Powder:

https://www.canadapowder.com/

They’re not as good as originals, but good enough for our purposes. And stay away from Noble 3D Printers, they’re crooks (as I explained above)!

Pavel Hanak -

Greetings Pavel,

The removal of solidified powder -mainly in the building bed area-and mold was exhausting, but so far it's working; we replaced the fan as you suggested and turned the machine back on, no errors this time. so we are in the task to connect it to the internet but we need to download Z print software, Any idea where can we get it besides 3dsystems?

And where do you buy the binder from?

Thanks again.

3d portrait PLUS - Responder

We're using the original Zprint software which you can get here (have you even tried searching for it?):

https://zprint-software.software.informe...

It actually has more settings and service options than the newer (and hipster-looking) 3D Print program by 3D Systems. And like I already said, we buy aftermarket consumables from Canada Powder, they have the powder, binder and others. The cartridge fillers are particularly handy, even if they're pricey.

https://www.canadapowder.com/

Pavel Hanak -

Hello again,

We looked for the program on the web and luckily a 3d printing enthusiast shared the program with us, we had into the link that you also provided and sent us directly to 3dsystems, which is hard to get information from, specially if it is about legacy products.

Now we are encountering networking connection, the machine boots while the ethernet cable is connected to the computer but the Zprint program does not recognize it, it shows a "No printers were found on the network" error.

Does it have to be a special ethernet cable? or what we are missing here?

Thanks!


3d portrait PLUS - Responder

I can't really help you with that. The last time I did network setup for these printers was 10 years ago and I don't remember how it's done. But you have to set an IP address for the printer... somehow. Isn't it in the front panel menu somewhere?

Pavel Hanak -

Here we are once more :)

You were right Pavel, the IP address was displayed in the front panel when rebooting, we just needed to create an IP address on our PC based on the IP shown.

So we are now connected to the printer and getting ready to print, we would not be able to accomplish thus far if it was not for your Posting. we are so grateful!

Lastly, we have a question that concerns us, when we were replacing the fan on the mainboard, we noticed that one of the electronic components was missing material, not sure what happening here. We are attaching the link with the photos. Do you think we should be concerned about it?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jRBme24...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lBBwX74...

thanks

3d portrait PLUS - Responder

You're welcome.

Regarding the photos, it seems like a power inductor which has part of its ferrite core chipped off. That's not good, but if it works, you're probably OK. I never replaced that little power board, so I have no idea if 3D Systems sells it separately or if there is some 3rd party alternative. It would be best if you asked an official 3D System service partner in your country about this.

Pavel Hanak -

Greetings Pavel,

We are having shrinking issues while using Canada Powders, we had done the following:

Increased the Powder density, use the dry environment to 1, changed shell and core percentages. By doing all these, the color would improve but the parts are distorted.

Any info on this matter, will be very helpful.

Thanks,

3d portrait PLUS - Responder

I've never encountered this problem. It would be best if you contacted Canada Powder about it, send them photos etc.

Pavel Hanak -

Greetings Pavel,

We would definitely contact them , but we were curious to learn if you had to create a modified powder as they suggested due in part to their powder density. What type of powder in Zprint you selected to run it with their powder?

3d portrait PLUS - Responder

Actually, we haven't used CP powder yet. We acquired a large stockpile of original ZP150 powder and we combine it with CP binders. If you manage to resolve this issue, post it here!

Pavel Hanak -

Greetings Pavel,

After many attempts, we could not get good results out of the Canada Powder; we did not get any feedback from the manufacturer either, which would be very much needed, so we are selling it on Ebay plus two binder filters, Here is the info if you are interested: https://www.ebay.com/itm/275354371414

3d portrait PLUS - Responder

Are you absolutely sure it's a problem with the powder and not the printer, though? You see, the powder feeding and spreading mechanism is rather intricate and all its parameters need to be just right. For example, the spreading arm needs to have an exact angle in relation to the print bed. In fact, we had to call the official Zcorp service - twice - to correct this issue. I can imagine your feeder mechanism will be much worse, particularly if you literally chiseled old hardened powder from it.

Pavel Hanak -

Greetings Pavel,

This 3dprinter is a different one from the one you help us to fix, we bought it as a working one to get the production going and we actually 3dprinted in color with the powder that came with it and printed as expected, no distortion or discoloration or any building issues that we experienced with the canada powder, as a matter of fact, we followed ALL canada powder modifications within ZPrint, and ask questions -did not reply to our concerns- to what could possible were not doing right, but at the end we came to the conclusion that:

we could get parts with no distortion but poor color, and the more saturation color we added to bring up the colors, the parts got weaker, tried different numbers in the middle, but again, the distortion was mostly present.

We rather work with a company that is willing to work with us, and unfortunately this is not the case.

By the Way, the machine that you help us to start back again is running and building parts beautifully.

3d portrait PLUS - Responder

Greetings Zbyszek

I found recycling on ZPRINTER 450 with a damaged headboard which I bought on EBAY, now I need the ZPRINT program, as if someone could rescue it at zbyniu1972@gmail.com, thank you

zbyszek małek - Responder

We have an old ZCorp 450 that seems to be working perfectly, boots up and can go through all the motions.

The only issue is the ethernet port appears to not be working as we cannot connect to the machine or even ping it. No lights on the ethernet socket either.

Is there a quick easy fix for this or must the entire motherboard be replaced?

Bernhard Vogt - Responder

So the Ethernet port worked previously and then suddenly stopped? Or you bought an used machine and it was already dead? Have you checked whether it's enabled in BIOS? Do you have a proper cable (these old boards don't support auto detect of crossed pairs)?

In any case, the real trouble would be sourcing a replacement mainboard. I searched for ENDAT-3220M about a year ago and it was hopeless. Maybe C3VCM6 would work as a replacement (see discussion above), but I've never tried it.

There are people who could test the Ethernet controller (Realtek RTL8139D) and associated circuitry on the mainboard. They could even replace it if it's really dead. It would be probably cheaper than new mainboard officially offered by 3D Systems:

https://www.layerbylayer-shop.com/en/p/m...

I have no idea whether it's compatible with Zprinter 450 too, though.

Pavel Hanak -

Hello Pavel,
I came across your guide looking for resources on Zprinter 650 and Projet 660. As we're using our Projets with different powder, I'm looking for as much info on how to control the powder feeding and layer spreading hardware. Maybe you'd be interested in sharing some insights?
Mind dropping me an email at glassobryk@gmail.com so I can ask a few questions?
I'm looking for some explanations on .ini file inputs and maybe some way to control roller speed, feeder "mixer" revolutions etc.

Kind regards,
Aleksander Bryk

Aleksander - Responder

Hello, I won't be able to help you with that. We actually had some problems with powder spreading when one printer was new, but we called official service to fix it. I never learned any details about its workings or configuration. Also, we got rid of all our Zprinters last year - all developed faults in the electronic box and it simply wasn't economical to fix and run then anymore.

Pavel Hanak -

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