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Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015

O que você precisa

  1. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015, Estrutura traseira: passo 1, imagem 1 %32
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    • Remova os seguintes dez parafusos que fixam a estrutura traseira à estrutura superior:

    • Dois parafusos P5 Pentalobe de 2,3 mm

    • Oito parafusos P5 Pentalobe de 3,0 mm

    • Durante o reparo, rastreie todos os parafusos e certifique-se de que eles retornem exatamente ao local de onde vieram, para evitar danos ao dispositivo.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - Responder

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - Responder

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - Responder

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - Responder

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - Responder

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - Responder

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - Responder

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - Responder

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - Responder

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - Responder

    Installation of replacement AirPort card was easier than I had expected thanks to this guide. Thank you.

    chaslaw - Responder

    I use replaced SSD and it was super easy and working great. I can finally upgrade Mac OS with plenty of room to spare and no more low memory alerts. Well worth investment and didn’t have to buy new laptop

    Pete James - Responder

    It's interesting that this tutorial is rated Moderate even though you need to remove the battery. The battery removal tutorial which is basically the same but with fewer steps is rated Difficult.

    Marv Ruona - Responder

    when i pulled the screws out i arranged them in the same way they were in. the top 2 middle screws appeared to be shorter than the rest. in order to keep them in place i got a square of packing tape sticky side up, taped both sides down with 2 other pieces of tape. and then put the screws head down in the order i pulled them.

    Jason Wade - Responder

    Excellent instructions although checking battery and speakers aligned before fixing batteries into place is essential. MacBook good as new!

    John Foreman - Responder

    I find it helpful to spread a soft, slightly fuzzy cloth (like flannel) over my workspace before doing something with small parts. It keeps screws and things from rolling or bouncing away. A towel might be too plush, though, as a screw might get lost in it.

    Richard KeslerWest - Responder

    I cannot get the two screws (that are different than the other ones) out and now they’re stripped. Any idea what to do without using a drill?

    Honeybee94 - Responder

    DO NOT REMOVE SPEAKER CABLES!! The connectors are fragile. Just remove speakers and bend attached cable away from battery. Same for trackpad cable connector at front side. This cable crosses the middle of the battery. Just remove the one connector on the back side - leave front side connector attached and fold cable toward front of computer out of way of battery.

    Paul Lebow - Responder

  2. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 2, imagem 1 %32
    • Coloque seus dedos entre a estrutura superior e a estrutura inferior.

    • Puxe cuidadosamente a estrutura inferior, afastando-a da estrutura superior, para removê-la.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - Responder

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - Responder

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman - Responder

  3. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 3, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 3, imagem 2 %32
    • A estrutura inferior está conectada com a estrutura superior por meio de dois clipes de plástico que se encontram perto do centro dela.

    • Durante a remontagem, empurre suavemente para baixo no centro da estrutura inferior para travar novamente os dois clipes de plástico.

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - Responder

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - Responder

    If you’re doing an iFixIt battery replacement, the replacement battery has two rubber nubs which are right where the clips are that receive these studs. Folks have been saying it’s hard to get the studs to clip back in after replacement, and I had the same issue. I trimmed the top of these rubber nubs, which are a bit bigger than those on the original battery, with some side cutters. That made the fit much better.

    Rob Gorbet - Responder

  4. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015, Conector da bateria: passo 4, imagem 1 %32
    • Se necessário, remova a capa de plástico colada na placa de contato da bateria.

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - Responder

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - Responder

    Dear Sir,

    as you seem to be very much experienced with battery replacements you might perhaps give me a hint why after having removed the battery pack successfilly, the keyboard doesn't work anymore after booting the system. The Touchpad works, the keyboard backlight works but typing does not function at all.

    I only disconnected the battery connector and touched nothing else. I am quite desperate …

    Gerd Uyan -

    I agree with Dave la Rose, provided you use heat rather than solvent to remove the old battery (or possibly floss, haven’t done that). Please see my comment further down this thread on how to use an iOpener for correctly heating the glue joint

    I. Margaronis - Responder

    After removing battery contact board plastic. My screwdriver accidentally fell and touched the battery board. And it short circuited. Now my battery doesn't charge. My laptop doesn't work without charger now. shuts after a few minutes of use. Can i fix it without sending it for repairs?

    Phillip Ngwenya - Responder

    Is replacing the battery necessary?

    Ralph Louis - Responder

    How do we know if it's necessary to replace the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board?

    What are the factors that would require that?

    Lux - Responder

  5. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 5, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 5, imagem 2 %32
    • Com a ponta plana de uma espátula, levante o conector da bateria para fora de seu soquete na placa lógica.

    • Certifique-se de levantar apenas o conector, e não o soquete, ou você corre o risco de danificar permanentemente a placa lógica.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - Responder

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - Responder

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - Responder

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - Responder

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg - Responder

    Thank you Richie I was trying to lift the socket.

    be careful the little square block is actually made of 2 parts and you only have to lift the upper part as Richie said

    ilyes - Responder

    You can do it from the side like the picture, but i would recommend twisting almost like a screw driver once you have leverage under the overhanging part of the left side like in the picture. Twist the tool so that it starts to put pressure on the top, until you’ll hear it click out. You can be somewhat forceful but it shouldn’t require a lot of strength. Guiding the tool with one hand and twisting with the other is a good way to attempt this.

    Colin Nowers - Responder

    After I put the battery back I found out at this step that the new battery connector was off by 2 mm (because I installed my battery slightly off). Since the connector is rigid, I removed it’s plastic cover (just like we all did in Step 4) to free the cable, which allowed me to bent it enough to properly plug the connector.

    Marc - Responder

    Simple question: why we need to do this, I mean, disconnect battery from main board?

    Bin Zhu - Responder

    Well, I’m reading this step in the battery replacement repair guide, so it’s pretty critical to disconnect the battery from the main board. I’m guessing these steps are reused in other guides where disconnecting the battery might not be such an obvious need.

    surf -

    Also wondering the same. I came here from a link to replace the fan. Is it necessary to disconnect the battery inorder to replace the fan?

    Chris Andrews -

    The connector wires from the battery to the connector are long

    You'll have to bend them downward and into the small cove that exists so the connector can fit in place.
    So use the a plastic card or flat end of the spudger to bend them downward and folded a bit back so the connector will fit in place.
    Use your old battery as a guide for how they should be bent.

    RON BUENO - Responder

    Hi All ,

    I followed the instructions step by step and changed the board successfully and reconnected everything back. When I powered it back on I can see it is charging again however it just displays a black screen and no display. Keyboard light comes on as well and the apple logo light on the back lid also turns on. Not sure what is wrong ? It has been charging for more than 15 minutes and still no joy. Anyone able to help solve or identify the issue .

    Thanks

    Kaleem - Responder

    The connector cover is slightly wider and longer than the socket (<1mm) so there is a small "lip" around the top that can be used to lift it.

    Richard KeslerWest - Responder

    If your are not familiar with those repairs, and as with most of those connections, I recommend to take the time to observe your computer and the pictures from the tutorial, reading instructions and comments before starting each step. This battery connector needs both a bit of force and of precision. For a battery repair the connection of the new battery is a bit more tricky, you need to have your battery in the right position and to force it a bit the connector

    David Obis - Responder

    Hi, I only want to remove/examine/possibly replace the left speaker as it's crackling..........I don't think I need to remove the battery connector to the logic board?

    Mickeytix - Responder

  6. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 6, imagem 1 %32
    • Vire o conector da bateria para cima para evitar o contato acidental com o soquete durante o reparo.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - Responder

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - Responder

    @sebasgaes, shoot, I'm only part way through the process, but I skipped this step thinking it wasn't necessary. I'm only through step 12 right now, but is there a fix if my machine doesn't recognize the wifi hardware after I've put it all back together? I don't see reference to the "I/O board cable" anywhere else in the instructions, so I'm confused about your mention of that...

    jiclark - Responder

    UPDATE: I completed the job, rebooted, and all is well, wifi and all. Thanks anyway; gotta love iFixIt!!

    jiclark -

  7. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015, Alto-falante direito: passo 7, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015, Alto-falante direito: passo 7, imagem 2 %32
    • Remova os dois parafusos Torx T5 de 2,1 mm que fixam a extremidade do suporte do cabo da placa de E/S onde fica a placa lógica.

    • Remova o suporte do cabo da placa de E/S.

    Do you know where I can purchase the i/o board cable bracket?

    jodieabc - Responder

    On my Mac they are p6 screws, not T5?!

    tyler.aman - Responder

    Same for me. T6 screws, with a slighly narrow band (no central connector).

    Catalin Dumitru - Responder

  8. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 8, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 8, imagem 2 %32
    • Com a ponta plana de uma espátula, desprenda o conector da placa de E/S de seu soquete na placa lógica.

    • Tenha cuidado para erguer apenas o cabo da placa de E/S e não o soquete em si, senão você corre o risco de danificar a placa lógica.

    Since I did not remove speakers I skipped this step and went directly to step 17

    Peter Stoll - Responder

    This was a great tip - I just moved the speakers out of the way without disconnecting them, which made things easy to deal with. Thank you.

    A B -

    I don’t understand why the instructions would tell you to remove the speakers if it wasn’t necessary. Can the battery be replaced WITHOUT removing the speakers?

    iwm4 - Responder

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step (Step 8) is not required, nor are any of the other steps that involve removing the left and right speakers. It is possible to remove the old battery and install a new battery without removing the speakers.

    Luke Schoen - Responder

    I couldn’t skip steps 12 & 15 because the speaker assemblies are holding down parts of the battery.

    Dave Olsen - Responder

    the speaker are better to be unscrewed but not disconnected. You can just turn them away from the battery while replacing and proceed to step 17.

    Igor Kapitanker - Responder

    I did this as suggested and it was much easier than disconnecting entirely

    N DesRochers -

    This video shows battery replacement without removing speakers.

    https://youtu.be/Lue6lVWhh4o

    Jerry Laufer -

    Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — solvent will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable.

    (Whether to disconnect the speakers is a judgment call, but removing them from the battery cavity is important.)

    John Hawkinson - Responder

  9. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 9, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 9, imagem 2 %32
    • Levante a ponta do cabo da placa de E/S onde fica a placa lógica, puxando-o em linha reta, para dobre-o e tire-o do caminho.

    • Para evitar danos ao cabo, dobre somente na curva da extremidade da placa de E/S do cabo.

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.

    Luke Schoen - Responder

    Thank you - this tip saved me a lot of time and hassle.

    A B -

  10. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 10, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 10, imagem 2 %32
    • Com cuidado, coloque a ponta de uma espátula sob o cabo do alto-falante direito próximo ao conector e levante-o para fora do soquete na placa lógica.

    I have performed battery swap without disconnecting the speakers!

    Aleš Smokvina - Responder

    Did that mean that you left the speakers attached to the case? If so, did that make removing the end sections of the battery very difficult? Thanks.

    iwm4 - Responder

    If you are only replacing an old battery with a new battery, then this step is not required. See my comments in Step 8.

    Luke Schoen - Responder

    On mine the cable connector pulls out to the left, not upwards

    John Harland - Responder

    Once disconnected, you will see that the speaker socket pins are horizontal. You might think the connector needs to slide into the pins, but it does not. The connecter is reattached by pressing straight down. After the connector is in place, use the flat end of the spudger to make sure the connector is fully seated.

    Steven Cutchen - Responder

    This step should be skipped.I pulled it all off, hard to pull one off alone.

    You can skip step 10,11 go to 12, and fold it over. Same as left.

    Then go to step 17.

    yong jack - Responder

    This should NOT be done. Shame on iFixit! Its easy to rip the socket off the board if the connector holding too tight. I had to resolder the socket onto the traces of the board.

    Paul Lebow - Responder

  11. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 11, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 11, imagem 2 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 11, imagem 3 %32
    • Retire cuidadosamente o cabo do alto-falante direito da estrutura superior.

    I have successfully replaced battery without removing the speaker cables, as proposed by the comments in the next steps.

    Furthermore, in the steps after 22, where the battery is removed from the upper case, I have easily performed with a credit card and a drop of rubbing alcohol on it and finished in several minutes. Try it!

    kem - Responder

    Kem, please could you explain how you got the end battery sections out of the case with the speakers still attached. Still very puzzled by this!

    iwm4 - Responder

  12. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 12, imagem 1 %32
    • Remova os parafusos a seguir que fixam o alto-falante direito à estrutura superior:

    • Um parafuso Torx T5 de 5,7 mm

    • Um parafuso Torx T5 de 6,5 mm

    • Um parafuso Torx T5 de 3,8 mm

    Make sure you replace these screws exactly where they came from, same with the other speak.

    Dustin Steward - Responder

  13. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 13, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 13, imagem 2 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 13, imagem 3 %32
    • Levante o alto-falante direito da ponta do cabo e puxe-o para fora da estrutura.

    When replacing with the new speaker, the new piece could have some blue strips on the cable. Remove them to let the adhesive do its job and attach the cable to the surroundings to avoid having it loose.

    Victor Alcantar - Responder

    I was wondering where I can buy a good replacement. Some users comply about the bad quality of sound after replacing the speakers. Can you suggest a link where to buy good replacement parts (possibly Italy / EU ) ?!

    Alberto Mennella - Responder

    Hi everyone.

    I have a problem with the right speaker of my macbook pro early 2015.

    The sound has a strange vibration and it is impossible to hear the audio properly except with headphones.

    I disassembled the macbook and extracted the speakers to check their condition but they are both perfect.

    I wanted to ask all of you who have replaced speakers what condition you found them in.

    Could the vibration be due to the deformation of the case due to the swelling of the battery? Is there another way to tell if the speaker actually needs to be replaced?

    Thank you all.

    Antonello Cicciu' - Responder

  14. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015, Alto-falante esquerdo: passo 14, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015, Alto-falante esquerdo: passo 14, imagem 2 %32
    • Insira a ponta de uma espátula por debaixo do cabo do alto-falante esquerdo, próximo ao conector, e levante-o, afastando-o do soquete na placa lógica.

    Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

    barak - Responder

    Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.

    Aleš Smokvina - Responder

    slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB

    Macrepair SF - Responder

    I picked up my steps back here when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13”. I used the flat part of the spudger and gently, carefully applied a fulcrum upward pressure to the base of the speaker connector to help pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - Responder

    I, too, found it unnecessary to unplug this speaker. It was easy, and not stressful to the speaker cable, to fold the speaker upwards and rest it on the motherboard.

    Ralph Begleiter - Responder

    When removing the left speaker as shown in the image in the photo, the left-most fixing part (protrusion) is broken. Will there be any problems using it?

    JangJaeHee - Responder

    Ugh. I agree with Barak; why is touching the speakers in these guides? On both the 13” and 15” you can easily replace the batteries WITHOUT even vaguely touching the batteries…

    davelarose - Responder

    Parts of this guide are used for other guides, such as replacing the top case. But also, the speakers can be damaged by solvents, so it’s not a bad idea if the method you’re using has the possibility of getting solvent on them. It’s easy enough to just remove the screws and move the speakers out of the way without disconnecting them.

    maccentric -

    Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — solvent will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable.

    That said, unplugged is not necessary, merely removing the speakers (Step 16).

    John Hawkinson - Responder

    For a battery repair with the heat method, as indicated in other comments on prior steps, you may skip this step, just unscrew the speaker and put it away when working on the battery. For this specific left speaker - on the right during the repair - you need to be careful with the protruding bit from the frame when moving the cable. Just guide the cable above or below as needed during the repair, to prevent to damage the cable with this protruding part.

    David Obis - Responder

    Speakers aren't working now... perhaps because I connected and disconnected then while the battery was still on. Even headphones don't work... Hmm...

    justsome631 - Responder

    Its absolutely true, this is not neccessary. It works greate without removing the speakers

    Andreas Schmidt - Responder

  15. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 15, imagem 1 %32
    • Remova os parafusos a seguir que fixam o alto-falante esquerdo na estrutura superior:

    • Um parafuso Torx T5 de 5,7 mm

    • Um parafuso Torx T5 de 6,5 mm

    • Um parafuso Torx T5 de 3,8 mm

    Same note as above: Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - Responder

    Where can I get these 3 sizes of t5 torx screw drivers?

    greg steigleder - Responder

    Greg, the T5 Torx screw driver is one size. The different sizes listed above are the *lengths* of the screws, not the diameter of the screw head. Hope that helps.

    Patrick G -

    My Torx screws are so locked i can not take it out. The Torx 5 screw driver slips. What can i do? Can i also get new screws later to put in?

    robertverheij - Responder

    Hi,

    If the T5 slips you may have not the correct size ? I have done may speaker, no screw was ever that tight. All 3 screws the same problem ?

    Horst Droege -

    Where can I replace these screws?

    One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    kate Taverna - Responder

    Did you ever find the replacement screws? If so, where…I need them also!

    David Wamsley -

    Once again.

    NO NEED NO NEED NO NEED

    davelarose - Responder

    Muchas gracias amigo, cambié las bocinas sin problema. :)

    Juan Antonio - Responder

  16. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 16, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 16, imagem 2 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 16, imagem 3 %32
    • Levante o canto do alto-falante esquerdo e remova-o da estrutura superior contornando a bateria.

    • Tenha cuidado para não prender o cabo do alto-falante no orifício do parafuso na lateral da estrutura.

    There’s a typo in this section.

    “Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out AROUND the battery to remove it from the upper case.”

    Patrick G - Responder

    If I have a case assembly with battery and trackpad, the above instructions say to skip steps 18 - 44. So, how do the battery and trackpad disconnect otherwise since I need everything else to reassemble. Am I missing something?

    Brett Levine - Responder

    after step 9 what??? i cannot see the next steps….

    kotakidisoklp - Responder

    Réparation faite en moins de 5 minutes chrono (j’avais lu et relu le tuto et l’avais répété autant de fois “dans ma tête” le temps de la réception du haut parleur endommagé). Réparation très facile, faite en moins de 10 minutes tout compris. Vraiment bravo et merci !

    Eric - Responder

    Why does this step exist?

    Unneeded…

    davelarose - Responder

    Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — it will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable. (See comment on Step 14).

    John Hawkinson - Responder

    For a battery repair with the heat method, I needed to remove the speakers, but not the connectors, just unscrew the speaker and put them away when working on the battery

    David Obis - Responder

  17. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015, Cabo do trackpad: passo 17, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015, Cabo do trackpad: passo 17, imagem 2 %32
    • Com a ponta plana de uma espátula, retire o conector do trackpad de seu soquete na placa lógica.

    The trackpad cable can also be of a different type where you pull the tape on it

    Rogier van der Heide - Responder

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you might instead see a trackpad connector that has a loose tape on it. If the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery then it is possible to skip this step. It is not necessary to pull the tape. Note that I had an A1502 MacBook Pro laptop and was replacing its A1493 battery, it had the trackpad cable going “under” the battery, so I skipped this step and was still able to successfully replace the battery.

    Luke Schoen - Responder

    If you also remove the other end of the mouse cable, remember to lower the lever when you reinsert it.

    Maximillian - Responder

    It is important to be really GENTLE with the trackpad cable.

    It is sometimes glued on very strong, and it is easy to damage it internally with no visible outer damage. In my case, I damaged just one line, and at first I didn't realize it.

    My TRACKPAD was working fine, but the Force Touch haptic Feedback wasn't working. I tried everything else, but eventually I replaced this ribbon cable with a cheap used one and that fixed it immediately.

    Flo - Responder

  18. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 18, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 18, imagem 2 %32
    • Levante o cabo do trackpad, afastando-o da bateria, para separá-lo do adesivo que o prende.

    • Tenha cuidado para não danificar o cabo. Se ele não se soltar facilmente, aplique um pouco de calor com um iOpener, uma pistola de ar quente ou um secador de cabelo para amolecer o adesivo e tente novamente.

    • Se estiver instalando um novo cabo de trackpad, certifique-se de dobrar o novo cabo para que ele tenha um formato idêntico ao do cabo antigo. O novo cabo parecerá ser longo demais se ele não for dobrado.

    On the picture above, it looks like, that the CIF cable for the keyboard, located right to the trackpad cable, should also be separated, but this is not necessary. You can leave it attached.

    anmeldung - Responder

    What helped release the cable was to place the body of the spudger under the cable and rotate it upward as I gently pulled it down to release the cable from the adhesive. It may not have been necessary, but it did help.

    Todd S. Jones - Responder

    I did this after reading your comment and it worked incredibly well!

    N DesRochers -

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen - Responder

    For people having keyboard or trackpad issues:

    If you followed the disassembly photos you may have lifted the the tap on the ZIF connector in Step 18 image. Note the lifted “tape” below the thumb. This may release the ZIF Connector and cause keyboard issues. Make sure the black retaining bar is in the down position on the ZIF Connector.

    Also, check the ZIF connector in Step 19 and 20. The Black plastic retaining bar MUST be in the “up/open” position to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable.

    Donald MacTavish - Responder

    Mine was really stuck, but I didn't have any tools to heat it up. So I tried a floss, it went easy peasy lemon squeezy. Go very slow and steady. Also, you don't need to disconnect the other end which is very fragile, I used a tweezer from the kit to simply hold it back.

    Marie Alice - Responder

  19. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 19, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 19, imagem 2 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 19, imagem 3 %32
    • Se necessário, remova a fita que estiver cobrindo o conector do cabo do trackpad.

    • Use a ponta de uma espátula para virar a aba de retenção do conector ZIF.

    Overall, I really enjoyed this project and it was a complete success but this step is the one spot I came up short. I forgot to flip the retaining tab back down when I reassembled and I got a totally unresponsive keyboard and trackpad before I opened it back up and realized I had forgotten this tiny but crucial step.

    nathan taylor - Responder

    I also forgot to flip the ZIF connector. Thankfully my trackpad worked after.

    Make sure to flip the ZIF connector before putting the trackpad cable back, too.

    ibash - Responder

    I did not remove this retaining clip for fear of not getting it plugged in again then just carefully folded it back to clear battery instal

    Peter Stoll - Responder

    This was the most challenging part of the installation. Putting this tab back, it's so fragile and difficult to put back. I thought it was going to get damaged but it worked.

    Gaetano Daidone - Responder

    Like Peter, I just folded it back a bit and had care to keep it out of the way. I think it is much better than the risk involved with taking it out.

    All in all it found it a bit less difficult than I expected - As with all the work I have done on different Apple products: Slow and careful work and following the instructions - including all the comments - seems to be the best advice.

    Adam Griggs - Responder

    I have a semi responsive trackpad and an unrecognized keyboard. Any suggestions?

    Daniel Lynn - Responder

    CHECK the ZIF connector in Step 19 and 20. The Black plastic retaining bar MUST be in the “up/open” position to remove and reinstall the ribbon cable.

    Donald MacTavish -

    Daniel- remove and put back again the cable on the ZIF connector, making sure it is pushed all the way in before closing the retainer clip. May have a partially reinserted cable.

    drrobins - Responder

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen - Responder

    This was the most difficult part for me.In frustration, I thought I had a bad cable so I bought two new ones and still was not successful.So I skipped the whole thing and bought an external wireless keyboard which I have been using till now.Recently, my LCD screen cracked and I am about to replace it. So, I now have another opportunity to open my laptop and try fixing this step again.This time I will read users comments before attempting another go.Please if anyone have additional useful tips for this step, kindly post a comment.I should be fixing my laptop in 2 weeks.Thanks!

    Ernest Kanu - Responder

    One thing to know about the tape that you have to remove is that it has "arms” that wrap around the cable just beyond the connector. If you bend the cable toward you you can see these. Remove/bend them so that they are pointing ‘north” and then pull the sticker.

    Michael Gorman - Responder

    The “flip up” tab was hard to see for me but once my 7yo confirmed it was up, I slowly moved the cable into the slot using my fingers (to avoid bending/breaking anything, thanks to comments I read), staying perpendicular. Once it was clearly in, I confirmed it was fully seated with a toothpick (a gentle tool for delicate parts). If worried, take zoomed in pictures straight from above, that way you will know what it should look like when reassembling.

    Marc - Responder

    After completing this repair and breaking the zif socket while trying to make sure this cable was re-attached properly. I believe the battery replacement can be done without doing this step. I would just carefully bend the cable out of the way when it came time to prying the portion of the battery out that sits below this cable.


    I'm taking my Macbook into Apple to see if they'll replace the touchpad and cable now since I don't feel like messing with this anymore. My screwup may just push me into buying a new M2 Macbook Air... I'm thinking subconsciously my brain tricked me into sabotaging this repair attempt so that I'd just get a new computer, lol.

    Greg Burkhardt - Responder

    Same experience as many. I didn't read the comments or the instructions well enough here and forgot to flip up the ZIF connector. Ended up just pulling the ribbon cable out which must have damaged it. After the battery replacement when I reassemble and turned my computer back on, the trackpad and keyboard were unresponsive. I bought a replacement (used) trackpad cable from iFixit, it came a few days later, I popped it in (the correct way!) and my keyboard and trackpad were back to working. So, don't forget the ZIF connector tab!!!!

    Kelly Archer - Responder

    READ THE COMMENTS ON THIS ONE.

    Broke the ZIF connector :-(

    Should've seen this step properly and read the comments. I was on the right path but somehow thought needed to plug. out the casing of ZIF connector too and maybe just ripped out the cable wrongly. My bad and now will see what the Mac does without the ZIF connector flipper... or may just buy the new trackpad.

    houguy - Responder

    Zip connector flip broke - now I only have a connection in rare occasions. Has anyone an easy hack like gluing the thing in place ore something 🥲?

    Matthias S. - Responder

  20. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 20, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 20, imagem 2 %32
    • Puxe o cabo do trackpad em linha reta, afastando-o do soquete ZIF na placa de controle do trackpad.

    • Durante a remontagem, certifique-se de que a aba de retenção esteja na posição para cima, "destravada", antes de inserir o cabo no soquete.

    With all due respect, step # 19 and 20 pics shows the ZIF socket on the trackpad board, not the Mac logic board, I think...

    See step #17 which seems to be correct. There is an inconsistency in the guide.

    Just to be sure...

    Bart Van Dessel - Responder

    This was the most difficult step for me. It was hard to locate the retaining tab on the ZIF connector and the trackpad cable had some adhesive on the bottom of it and it was difficult to remove from the socket. Be patient….

    Gary Bain - Responder

    I skipped this two steps (19&20) , just bent the flat fable when taking the battery out.

    Aleš Smokvina - Responder

    This does look the most frightening part of the process, that connector looks really flimsy. Is it ok to just bend it back and leave it connected as suggested?

    Jack Sukerman - Responder

    This is the only step I skipped, as Gary Bain mentioned above there was adhesive which made it difficult to remove, and it’s probably the only step worth skipping.

    John Davis - Responder

    Can you buy replacements for this trackpad control board? They dont seem to come with new trackpads.

    Rachel MacLeod - Responder

    The ZIF retaining tab is a tiny black plastic bar. Pull the trackpad cable HORIZONTALLY out of the socket.

    Richard Johnson - Responder

    If you are replacing an old battery with a new battery, and the trackpad cable goes “under” the battery from the trackpad connector to the other side of it (instead of the trackpad cable going “over” the battery from its trackpad connector as shown in the provided image), then you then it is possible to skip this step. See my comments in Step 17.

    Luke Schoen - Responder

    Unfortunately, i didn’t notice that there was a retaining tab, so i damaged my ZIF Connector. I ordered a new one from amazon. I followed the procedure and did it in the “correct” way. Anyway trackpad and keyboard won’t work. Can you help me?

    Andrea - Responder

    I removed that cable and not sure that I put it back properly. The trackpad and keyboard are not working. I might need to order a new trackpad cable and try the process with the new, Can anyone help?

    Thank you

    Faliere Dieujuste - Responder

    I broke the tiny plastic clamp on the ZIF socket and that, to my understanding, is why the ribbon cable is not connecting properly (so neither keypad nor keyboard are connected). I wonder if I can buy a replacement somewhere for that clamp or the socket as a whole.

    Ghassen -

    Hi Ghassen, I too just broke the plastic clamp on the ZIF socket. What did you do to repair it? I’m pulling my hair out looking for a solution!

    David O'Brien -

    "straight out" in this case is away from you and horizontal, not straight up! I tugged on the cable a bit harder than I'd like to admit before realizing my mistake, although no damage seems to have occurred.

    jheiss - Responder

    Thank you for all the comments on the direction to pull this cable. Pull horizontally toward the battery. It slips out of the connector then you can pull it vertically to free. Mine had a little bit of sticky on the cable that held it to the battery.

    Steve - Responder

    Removing this cable took a lot more effort than I thought it should. I removed it horizontally away from the front of the laptop. I was certain to pop up the plastic retaining clip to remove, then push it down to reinstall. For whatever reason I feel like I’m not getting the cable back in all the way. After reassembly my touchpad and keyboard do not work. I’m wondering if I damaged the cable or the small board with the zif socket…

    Greg Burkhardt - Responder

    Same. Any idea how to resolve it? Any progress on your part?

    Jose Huerta -

    Same for me. Trackpad is not working anymore. What a pity…

    Katrin Klug -

    I had to replace the cable after my keyboard and trackpad would not work after replacing the battery, lucky they are available from iFixit

    Cameron Wheatley -

    So during re-assembly, my cable is not going in all the way. I think is causing the haptic feedback on the trackpad to stop working. Does anyone have any solution to this?

    Vysak Sasikumar - Responder

    Success. I bought a replacement ribbon cable and followed ifixit instructions. The ribbon cable is too long as is stated. I worried that bending the cable would crimp it, causing the same malfunction as the original. What to do? I did bend it a little but the cable still had a bow in it. I decided to place a piece of plastic (guessing about 5 mm thick) under the cable which held the cable nicely to the right length, without crimping. Then taped to the battery. The computer back panel then screwed on with no issue and did not have a bulge such as to cause the computer to rock and layed flat on the bumper feet. The computer worked perfectly. Thank you “ifixit”

    ron bryanton - Responder

  21. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 21, imagem 1 %32
    • Remova o único parafuso Torx T5 de 3,7 mm que fixa a placa da bateria à estrutura superior.

    If lost where could I find a replacement for this screw?

    Justin - Responder

    Yes, where could I find a replacement for this screw?

    Ryan Borchert - Responder

    Before continuing, draw around the outside of the existing battery with a pencil to make a template ready for when installing the new battery. It means when you get there, the new battery can be installed perfectly in place and you will not have space problems when trying to reinstall the speakers during reassembly.

    Dan - Responder

    when installing new battery it is better to start with this step and secure the battery control board first with the screw. This is needed to align the battery plug with the jack on the mother board, then glue the rest of the battery back.

    Igor Kapitanker - Responder

    FYI this was a T4 on my system

    anonymous 5375 - Responder

    When aligning the placement of the battery, on my second attempt, I used a sim card removal pin (a paper clip would suffice) to align the battery board hole with the screw hole underneath. Unfortunately on my first attempt I inadvertently stripped the threads a little. Luckily there was just enough threads to hold

    Charles Meitin - Responder

  22. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015, Bateria: passo 22, imagem 1 %32
    • O removedor de adesivos líquido fornecido no kit de substituição de bateria da iFixit pode afetar o revestimento antirreflexo da tela do MacBook Pro.

    • Para proteger a tela, coloque uma folha de papel-alumínio entre a tela e o teclado e deixe-a ali enquanto trabalha.

    I was able to remove the batteries using the plastic ifixit card only, it requires you to work it back and forth but it can be done. However, for a few bucks I would suggest the heating pad. I was able to reuse my batteries (although not suggested).

    Dustin Steward - Responder

    This should have been Step 1.

    Richard Johnson - Responder

    I too managed with just heat (iOpener that had come with parts for another repair) and the plastic card. I decided to try with just heat because of concern about putting any fluid into the computer case. (There was a comment by someone about damaging a trackpad). Using the card and heat, I found it helped to start by inserting and advancing a pointed end of the card rather than an entire long-edge of the card. Then advancing the card, while also moving it in a back-and-forth motion, to essentially “cut through” the glue strips. One other point, that helped for later positioning the new battery so the the speakers fit without issue, was that with a sharp pencil I traced the outer edge of the old battery on the inside of the case. This left a nice aid for worry-free placement of the new battery.

    Jonathan Bradley - Responder

    I used heat from a hair dryer to detach the adhesive. The bottom of the touch pad seems to be made from plastic so I didn’t want to use any hard solvents (acetone) to risk permanent damage to the track pad.

    Olivier Biot - Responder

    I also used the hair drier and the cheap plastic spackling 2” knife and old credit card. No solvents. Once you detach the section of the battery you can use piece of the blue plastic that covers adhesive strips of on the new battery to prevent detached sections from sticking back .

    Igor Kapitanker - Responder

  23. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 23, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 23, imagem 2 %32
    • Se você tiver um kit de bateria iFixit com removedor de adesivos líquido, é hora de prepará-lo.

    • Como alternativa, se estiver usando o método do iOpener aquecido, pule os três passos a seguir.

    • O removedor de adesivos da iFixit contém acetona, um irritante leve para a pele e os olhos.

    • Use protetor ocular ao manusear e aplicar o removedor de adesivos. (O protetor ocular está incluído em seu kit).

    • Não use lentes de contato sem protetor ocular.

    • Luvas de proteção também estão incluídas em seu kit. Se você estiver preocupado/a com a irritação da pele, calce as luvas agora.

    I used “isopropyl alcohol” instead of “acetone” and it dissolved the glue under the battery.

    I already had some “isopropyl alcohol” that I bought to make my own hand sanitizer.

    Luke Schoen - Responder

    FYI, the adhesive remover is definitely acetone which will dissolve the gloves

    Michael Gorman - Responder

  24. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 24, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 24, imagem 2 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 24, imagem 3 %32
    • Retire a tampa de borracha preta do frasco do removedor de adesivos.

    • Gire para soltar ou remover a tampa do frasco antes de cortar a ponta do aplicador.

    • Com isso, o lacre do frasco se solta e a pressão se equilibra antes de você cortar a ponta do aplicador. Se pular esse passo, o removedor de adesivos poderá borrifar inesperadamente quando você cortar a ponta.

    • Com uma tesoura, corte a ponta lacrada do aplicador.

    • Um corte próximo à ponta fina proporciona um melhor controle, para que você possa aplicar o removedor de adesivos em pequenas quantidades.

    • Gire e feche a tampa do frasco seguramente antes de continuar o procedimento.

    just acetone (manicure remover) is ok.

    Jimmy Jeong - Responder

    New kits come with different bottle than picutred. all clear with clear notch to cut on tip.

    Josh Hornby - Responder

    The kit that I got had a clear bottle with a black top - the cover just unscrews, and the tip underneath already has a hole in it.

    Owen Edwards - Responder

    The bottle you have to cut spills easily. Used the card to apply. Still a bit messy.

    adbro94@yahoo.no - Responder

  25. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 25, imagem 1 %32
    • Aplique algumas gotas do removedor de adesivos uniformemente sob a borda da célula direita externa da bateria.

    • Não é necessário usar muito. O pequeno frasco contém mais do que o dobro de solvente necessário para remover todas as células da bateria.

    • Aguarde de 2 a 3 minutos para que o removedor de adesivos líquido penetre sob a célula da bateria antes de prosseguir para o próximo passo.

    I just poured some “isopropyl alcohol” into a bowl, then cut a piece of plastic (since it bends easily) from some packaging, and then dipped the end of it in the bowl to coat it in the alcohol, then repeated the following process progressively every minute or so: I’d push it under each corner of the battery to apply the alcohol, then wait a while for it to penetrate the glue, and then used a combination of a “plastic card” (i.e. old credit card) the “spludger” tool to slowly lift the battery from the glue.

    Important note: I was removing an old battery that wouldn’t hold charge anymore, so I didn’t care about squishing it a bit with the '“spludger” (as long as I didn’t puncture it and cause battery fluid to leak!)

    Luke Schoen - Responder

    Before continuing, draw around the outside of the existing battery with a pencil to make a template ready for when installing the new battery. It means when you get there, the new battery can be installed perfectly in place and you will not have space problems when trying to reinstall the speakers during reassembly. Things get snug and this tip helped me a lot.

    Dan - Responder

    My battery was so swollen that it only required a bit of heat and card action to take it out.

    Marc - Responder

    I had the same experience as Marc. My battery was also so swollen that I only needed to carefully pry underneath with a spudger from the side away from the trackpad to get it loose. I had several plastic cards on hand that I used “just in case” there was a problem.

    anasazi4st - Responder

    As is mentioned, it is important to mark the position of the old battery.

    The acetone solvent will dissolve things like Sharpie ink, and even pencil lines. I ended up having to scribe some tiny lines into the case - be careful not to create shavings. (Use some canned air to blow any of those away.)

    Position is important because the speakers are tight fits at the lower left and right corners and if the new battery is not positioned correctly the speakers won't go back in during re-assembly.

    Sherman Oakes - Responder

  26. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 26, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 26, imagem 2 %32
    • Se não tiver um removedor de adesivos líquido, você usará um iOpener aquecido para aquecer e amolecer uma parte do adesivo que prende a bateria à estrutura superior e, em seguida, fazer alavanca cuidadosamente nessa área.

    • Use o iOpener aquecido para cobrir metade das células mais à direita da bateria.

    • Após cerca de um minuto, reaqueça o iOpener e mova-o para cobrir a outra metade das células mais à direita da bateria.

    I just aimed a hairdryer at the relevant part of the battery for a short while and felt it getting warmer (not the other circuitry), and made sure it was an appropriate distance so it wouldn’t exceed 100 degrees celsius (which is dangerous).

    Luke Schoen - Responder

    DO NOT OVERHEAT the iOpener. Note that the replacement instructions here seem to imply just reheat and repeat every ~2 minutes. The iOpener packaging ALSO asserts just heat for 30 and go, every time. HOWEVER, on the BACK of the iOpener (never pictured), it explicitly says 30 seconds, then another 30 if and only if necessary and if the iOpener isn't hot to the touch, and then NO FURTHER warming for 10 mins. I'm guessing this is where a lot of the "2 hour" quote comes from, if you're expected to let the iOpener cool for 10 minutes for each of the 6 cells. That said, once I had mine going for 30 + 30 + (didn't read the fine print) 20 + 15, it was plenty hot to do the remainder of the cells in one go.

    Sean Kelly - Responder

    I also used a hairdryer and when the battery was just below too hot to touch, I was able to pull the battery off without using tools. I started from the outside and moved towards the middle. I just pointed the hairdryer under the ouyside edge of each battery and waited until it got hot to the touch.

    J lawson - Responder

  27. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 27, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 27, imagem 2 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 27, imagem 3 %32
    • Empurre um cartão plástico entre a célula direita externa de bateria e a estrutura superior, cortando o adesivo entre ambas.

    • Durante todo esse procedimento, tome cuidado para não danificar nenhuma célula de bateria com suas ferramentas. Uma bateria de íons de lítio danificada pode vazar substâncias químicas perigosas e/ou pegar fogo. Use somente ferramentas de plástico.

    • Caso use o método do iOpener aquecido, se a bateria oferecer muita resistência, pare e aplique o iOpener para reaquecer a área em que está trabalhando.

    I suggest taping the batteries together on the top, this will keep them intact while you work the card back and forth. If you are very careful during these steps you can reuse your batter but make sure to inspect it Very well. If there is any damage whatsoever do not run the risk of leaking fluid to the rest of your computer.

    Dustin Steward - Responder

    Could I suggest that the plastic card be filed at the business edge like a chisel to make it easier to slide under the battery breaking the glue seal. I did it to mine and made it just that bit easier to break that glue seal. I use the heat method. Otherwise it worked well.

    Ray Miller - Responder

    With the help of some acetone a little syringe and a credit card, I found the whole battery removal part to be easier than I expected.

    Adam Griggs - Responder

    I did not have a iFixIt kit (they were sold out). I used a hot/cold therapy pack instead of an iOpener, but found I didn’t need it. What worked really well for me was to gently work an old credit card in underneath, then slide a long wedge-shaped spudger between the credit card and battery cell and pry gently up. Not to much to avoid bending the cell, but working back and forth between wedging up with the spudger and shifting the credit card further in worked really well.

    Rob Gorbet - Responder

    when using the iOpener, note that a full 60+ seconds of heating (divided over multiple 30 or less second nukes) will get it hot enough to melt the provided cards themselves if left in direct contact. Account for this in where you leave your cards between cells.

    Sean Kelly - Responder

    I suggest to be really careful when prying on the two battery modules in the center. The trackpad and the haptic feedback engine are on the other side of the "wall" and very sensitive to force. Take your time and use the solvent sparingly, but use it.

    Flo - Responder

  28. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 28, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 28, imagem 2 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 28, imagem 3 %32
    • Repita esse procedimento com a célula adjacente da bateria:

    • Aplique uma pequena quantidade de removedor de adesivos líquido sob a célula da bateria e aguarde de 2 a 3 minutos para que ele penetre e amoleça o adesivo.

    • Como alternativa, reaqueça essa área com o iOpener, se necessário.

    • Empurre um cartão de plástico entre a célula da bateria e a estrutura superior e, lentamente, levante a célula para separar todo o adesivo.

  29. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 29, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 29, imagem 2 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 29, imagem 3 %32
    • Deixe temporariamente o cartão plástico embaixo das duas células mais à direita da bateria, para evitar que elas voltem a aderir à estrutura superior.

    • Se estiver usando um iOpener, reaqueça-o e reaplique-o, desta vez nas células mais à esquerda da bateria.

    • Novamente, deixe o iOpener em cada posição por cerca de um minuto, reaquecendo entre elas, para aquecer cada metade das células mais à esquerda da bateria.

  30. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 30, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 30, imagem 2 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 30, imagem 3 %32
    • Repita o procedimento acima para separar as duas células mais à esquerda da bateria da estrutura superior.

    • Lembre-se de aplicar uma pequena quantidade de removedor de adesivos em cada célula da bateria e aguardar de 2 a 3 minutos para que ele penetre e amoleça o adesivo.

    • Com um segundo cartão plástico, separe as duas células mais à esquerda da bateria da estrutura superior.

    The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane - Responder

  31. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 31, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 31, imagem 2 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 31, imagem 3 %32
    • Continue repetindo o procedimento de fazer alavanca.

    • Insira o cartão de plástico entre a segunda célula da bateria mais à esquerda e a estrutura superior para cortar o adesivo que une as duas células e levante a célula da estrutura.

    Again, The adhesive for my old battery was only in strips around the underneath so if you can get the outer edge loose you can GENTLY but firmly pull slowly upwards and prob get it off ok without too much digging. Use a hair dryer for 30 seconds or so and it’ll be just enough to break it loose. (If you don’t have a heat gun).

    Faslane - Responder

  32. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 32, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 32, imagem 2 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 32, imagem 3 %32
    • Deixe o segundo cartão no canto entre as duas células da esquerda.

    • Se estiver usando um iOpener, reaqueça-o e aplique-o nas células intermediárias da bateria.

    • Como antes, deixe o iOpener em cada posição por cerca de um minuto, reaquecendo entre elas, para aquecer cada metade das células intermediárias.

    • Nos seguintes passos, você pode usar um terceiro cartão ou o cartão do canto direito. O adesivo do canto direito deve estar seco/frio o suficiente para que as células possam ser facilmente puxadas para cima novamente, se necessário.

    I grabbed a roll of scotch tape for these steps; once a cell was separated and cool, I could shimmy a good long strip of tape, sticky-side up, under the cell to cover as much of the old adhesive as I could feel and better prevent readhesion.

    Sean Kelly - Responder

  33. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 33, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 33, imagem 2 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 33, imagem 3 %32
    • Se estiver usando um removedor de adesivos líquido, aplique mais algumas gotas em cada uma das duas células centrais finais.

    • Pode ser útil elevar um dos lados do MacBook Pro alguns centímetros para que o removedor de adesivos flua na direção correta, sob as células da bateria. Você pode usar um livro resistente ou um bloco de espuma para apoiar um lado do MacBook Pro enquanto trabalha.

    • Aguarde de 2 a 3 minutos para que o removedor de adesivos penetre antes de continuar.

    • Com cuidado, dobre as células da bateria mais à direita para fora do caminho e insira um cartão de plástico sob a célula intermediária direita.

    • Empurre o cartão até a metade de seu comprimento para cortar o adesivo que prende a célula da bateria à estrutura.

    • Evite tocar na placa de controle do trackpad. Aponte o cartão para cima, em direção à placa lógica, onde está o adesivo.

    • Deixe o cartão no lugar para evitar que o adesivo volte a se selar.

    I think this part killed my trackpad…. I think it should be mentioned that adhesive remover can get into the trackpad cover plate.

    Gary Yuen - Responder

    I did not bend my batteries nearly this much, it allowed me to reuse them but it takes patiences to get them free.

    Dustin Steward - Responder

    Take a look at the trackpad replacement guide to get a sense of where the adhesive is:

    Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015

    ibash - Responder

    To prevent re-adhering, I placed a bit of Scotch tape over the original adhesive locations.

    Richard Doss - Responder

    You can see it in the photos, but they don't call it out: while the side cells are in their own smooth wells, the center cells are on a raised section to accommodate the trackpad. If you shimmy your cards in and they absolutely hard-stop, be aware you probably need to get the outer cells free enough to lift so your card can clear the bezel.

    Sean Kelly - Responder

    I used one of my wife's icing spatula's (this one Small Spreader - Shop), and it worked really well on the middle 2 cells since it is long and slightly sharp and thin and pretty sturdy. I just took my time not to damage the cells and I was very happy with the results. Although, my wife was not happy that I made her spatula dirty and fully of adhesive but I just used a little IPA to remove the residue :).

    John B. - Responder

    Je n'avais pas le kit iFixit, ni de hot pack. J'ai utilisé de l'alcool dénaturé à 96°. Avec patience, délicatesse et une palette de plastique de 5cm de large, j'y suis arrivée plus facilement que je le pensais.

    anne guillaume - Responder

  34. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 34, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 34, imagem 2 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 34, imagem 3 %32
    • Repita o mesmo procedimento para a última célula restante da bateria.

    • Mantendo as células externas fora do caminho, insira o cartão de plástico aproximadamente até a metade sob a célula intermediária esquerda da bateria, evitando a placa do trackpad.

  35. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 35, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 35, imagem 2 %32
    • Volte ao cartão abaixo da célula central direita e vire-o para separar a bateria inteira da estrutura superior.

    • A essa altura, você já deve ter cortado todo o adesivo que prende a bateria à estrutura superior, e ela deve sair facilmente.

    • Se não sair com facilidade, talvez seja necessário reaquecer o iOpener e aplicá-lo nas áreas com cola mais resistente e, em seguida, continuar cortando cuidadosamente o adesivo com os cartões plásticos.

    I found this to be more difficult than the edge sections. I had to reapply a few times the adhesive removal from both sides of the center sections before I was able to pry the battery. Take time and use the adhesive removal several times.

    Maxim Bulat - Responder

    I dipped the edge of a stiff credit card (actually health card lol) into 91% isopropyl alcohol and slid that in from the sides..keep pressure while the alcohol works it’s way thru the adhesive..just be careful when it finally lets go..

    Adam - Responder

    This was a great tip - it helped get the liquid on the difficult middle cells without flooding the screen. I also used floss to cut through the center adhesive strips.

    A B -

    Thanks to Adam’s suggestion about sharpening the plastic card and using alcohol plus the heat gun I easily got to this point. Then I re attached the speakers before dry fitting the new battery.

    Peter Stoll - Responder

    While you have the battery off, consider removing the T3 screws that hold the metal plate over the trackpad. That makes it much easier (and less dangerous for the trackpad) to clean the adhesive off. And while you have that off, consider removing the twelve T5 screws holding in the trackpad and cleaning it up a bit around the edges, and the edges of the case. Because that’s a slot, stuff gets in there. I was surprised how dirty mine was. Trackpad instructions here: Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015

    Rob Gorbet - Responder

    At the last step reassembly there was a 1-2 mm gap between the cover and the body. Upon inspection I found that one of the new battery’s plastic bar had to be gently nudged under the aluminum « post ». At the ends of the plastic U shape, look for tiny flat protrusions, right next to the rubber bumpers, those should go under a recess near the screw posts (one can be seen on the left of the thumb on the image above).

    Marc - Responder

  36. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 36, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 36, imagem 2 %32
    • Remova a bateria.

    • Antes de instalar a nova bateria, remova todo o adesivo antigo da estrutura do MacBook Pro.

    • Com um pouco de sorte, você pode puxar lentamente cada tira de adesivo com os dedos.

    • Caso contrário, molhe cada parte do adesivo com um pouco de removedor de adesivos por 2 a 3 minutos e, em seguida, raspe-o com uma palheta de abertura ou uma das outras ferramentas do seu kit. Isso pode exigir um pouco de trabalho, portanto seja paciente.

    • Limpe qualquer resíduo de removedor de adesivos e deixe o MacBook Pro secar ao ar livre por alguns minutos.

    • A bateria de reposição incluída em seu kit iFixit vem com adesivo pré-instalado. Teste cuidadosamente o encaixe e o alinhamento da bateria antes de retirar a película que cobre o adesivo e, em seguida, pressione cada célula firmemente no lugar. Se houver alguma película ou revestimento adicional que não estava na bateria original, remova-o agora.

    • Calibre a bateria instalada: carregue até 100% e deixe carregando-a por mais duas horas. Tire da tomada e use o aparelho normalmente até a bateria descarregar. Quando vir o aviso de bateria fraca, salve o trabalho e deixe o laptop ligado até ele entrar em modo espera (bateria fraca). Aguarde ao menos 5 horas e carregue o laptop ininterruptamente até 100%.

    • Se você notar algum comportamento incomum ou problemas após a instalação da nova bateria, talvez seja necessário redefinir o SMC do seu MacBook Pro.

    Remember that the speakers fit on either side of the battery. When placing the new battery, make sure to leave enough space for them.

    Cesario Uy - Responder

    I wish they had put your comment in the guide itself. It took me a while to realize that the speaker won’t go in because the battery was off a bit towards the side of the computer. Fortunately the adhesive was not as strong as the original.

    Yulun Hsieh -

    good point, if you tuck the battery cell you can also firm up the speakers and then install the cell, just a tiny bit tricky since you have to tuck it under the speaker a bit.

    Faslane -

    Does anyone meet the problem that there is a slightly misalignment for the new battery?

    Lei Xu - Responder

    Yes. I did encounter the same issue. Need to stretch a little to force it in.

    ramakrishnr -

    Yes, I had to adjust tiny guys at both ends when I was putting back the speakers.

    yon2maru -

    Why do we need to replace the battery for this? Can’t we put back the original one in place after we replaced the trackpad? If sohow to glue the original battery back?

    benjamin parpillon - Responder

    There’s a fairly high risk of damage to the battery—they are not designed to be serviced or removed. Reinstalling the old battery may put your laptop at risk, and can even be a fire hazard.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    yeah DEFINITELY do NOT put the old battery in. Chances are it’s damaged and all bent up and you definitely do not want this back in a working machine. Spend the money and get a new replacement or you’ll regret it.

    Faslane -

    Merci beaucoup ! Très bien expliqué parfait !

    Valerie - Responder

    My batteries were swollen pushing out on the keyboard and back of the case. The battery replacement was in my mind rather simple given the instructions. It was about taking time and logically laying removed items with screws. The battery removal was a little more completed…my approach was to put the opened case with batteries only exposed to the direct sunlight for 45 or so minutes. So taking time with plastic tools provided starting in the corner of the outermost batteries and working toward the center two was key. I put waxed paper between the batteries and the case to prevent reattachment. Removal from start to finish was about 20 minutes working slowly feeling and looking for the release of adhesive. I was concerned about putting liquid directly on the metal parts so I used acetone on a rag to clean remaining adhesive. Alignment of the batteries and circuit board was key to the installation. “Dry fit the batteries and board to see how they will go in. Then begin in the middle outward.

    Kevin - Responder

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard -

    I found mineral turpentine on a piece of cloth removed the remaining glue without making too much of a mess.

    Ray Miller - Responder

    My new battery now shows zero cycles but the age is still the original 4.5 years.

    My battery lasted to 730 cycles 4.5 years and 80% health, it was time to change it out as the battery was not lasting as long as I would like.

    Does resetting the SMC also reset the computer battery age?

    Ray Miller - Responder

    It doesn't reset the ago, no.

    Faslane -

    my keyboard is swollen also. did it damage the keyboard? did the swelling of the upper case go down after inserting new battery?

    thanks

    Bob

    bob bulliard - Responder

    I had bulging both on the top and bottom of the case. It all went away with the new batteries and everything fit perfectly just like brand new when I was all done. So the case bulging was not permanent.

    jklarr -

    Friendly warning: Make sure the adhesive remover evaporates before connecting the new battery!

    I successfully changed the battery in my 2015 MacBook Pro, everything powered on just fine, then I put it in my neoprene sleeve. The next morning I noticed some of the adhesive remover on my keyboard. I wiped it off, powered it on and then it suddenly shut down. After a couple more tries I could no longer get it to power on. It was dead. Took it to a repair shop and they concluded it was most likely liquid damage to the logic board. Total bummer. I have sense learned that the adhesive remover itself is not conductive, but it can dissolve something like glue, and then become conductive. The adhesive remover also cools as it evaporates which attracts moisture. So please make sure your adhesive remover evaporates completely before connecting your new battery.

    Jonathan Flower - Responder

    I did the SMC reset but still nothing. Is not charging at all.

    nasho007 - Responder

    Tips for alignment:

    1. Do not remove the plastic covering the adhesive and then try to align the battery. Leave the plastic on and remove one at a time after the battery is aligned.

    2. Use masking tape to hold the battery cells together while aligning, otherwise they flop around a lot.

    3. Put your speakers next to the battery cells (before removing plastic on adhesive) to ensure you’re leaving enough room.

    4. Make sure your battery connector is well aligned too.

    ibash - Responder

    I’d recommend once new battery is placed and NOT stuck down, to connect the power and charger to make sure it charges up. I got a bad “new” battery and had to do a second removal and replace….ugh.

    Faslane - Responder

    This was a great tip. I just put the replacement battery in slightly and connected it to the battery connector, then opened the laptop (with the laptop upside down since I didn’t bother putting the bottom cover back on) and plugged in the power cable, then waited for it to load until it showed the battery power level, and then checked that when I disconnected the power cable that the laptop still stayed on using the new battery

    Luke Schoen -

    I actually also, installed the speakers back before adhering new battery down, it was a pretty tight fit. Also one speaker on each side has a smaller screw than the other 2 so be aware to get them back in the correct spot. I also had one of the long screws that wouldn’t fit in the spot so I switched them, so you might be careful of that too…not sure why but it wouldn’t thread in….weird.

    Faslane - Responder

    In fact I think each of the three speaker screws are of a different length.

    Adam Griggs -

    one more thing, if you install the speakers first (totally do-able) you’ll take off the adhesive on the outer most cell on each side first and you’ll approach it from the top and tuck it under the very edge of speaker…after that’s done press down when happy with alignment.

    Faslane - Responder

    In conjuction with the owner of the MacBook, we decided not to stick the new battery down, specially because it is used 99% of the time on a stand and connected to a monitor. Will repost if this seems to give any issue.

    Adam Griggs - Responder

    Thanks for this excellent kit and the detailed instruction guide!

    Michael Lorenz - Responder

    Once the battery is removed and you want to glue the new one, make sure that you leave enough room for the speakers. Honestly the battery change was far easier that what I thought, I think everyone is capable of doing it. Great tutorial by the way, thank you for the work !

    Thomas Alliot - Responder

    I am still very puzzled by the instructions to remove the speakers! Is it necessary to remove them both or not? Sorry if I’m being a bit dense!

    iwm4 - Responder

    I can’t say for sure it’s absolutely necessary, but I’m looking inside one right now and, from a practical standpoint, the speakers would make it extremely difficult to work around. It would be much harder to get the glue dissolver under the ends of the battery and to pry underneath them to lift them. Removing the speakers is rather simple, so just do it.

    Mike Rosenberg -

    Hi. After a couple of months installed the new battery is loose, seems like is “unglued”… Does anybody have an idea what could I use to replace the glue?

    Thanks!

    Gustavo Lo Valvo - Responder

    Hi there, I was so surprised at how delicate everything seemed, never attempted anything like it before! My old battery would hold any charge at all and had swollen so much it warped the casing a little. After replacing the battery my mac turns on but still doesn’t hold any charge. I reset the SMC but it hasn’t worked, not sure what to do next, any advise?

    Emma Read - Responder

    To make it clear: Really check if battery plug and socket fit before you feel comfortable to press down the cells on the glue. I had to tear the connector pretty much on one side.

    Daniel Brehm - Responder

    I would recommend doing the next step where you take the cover off of the trackpad before you install the battery. I did and found a bunch of the adhesive remover (there is nearly zero space between the cover plate and touchpad, meaning the remover/acetone easily seeps in there, but air does not get in so the acetone remains. Soft compressed air also works well to dry the remover. Ok, to be cautious, probably steps 37-40. Being able to inspect/get some air in there may save you.

    Michael Gorman - Responder

    I just finished the battery replacement. I did not have to remove either of the speakers. I tried using the iOpener (and a hair dryer) but it just wasn’t hot enough. It’s like the glue was super-cured from the heat of the computer. I put a layer of foil and a layer of paper towel before I tried using the acetone. I found that just a tiny amount did the trick after a couple of minutes to soak in. As i pried up the edge I added a couple more drops and was able to free the old battery. The replacement fit perfectly. The battery is calibrating now.

    Will - Responder

    Replaced the battery but now every time I power her on, she immediately shuts off again. What would be the cause of this?

    Alfie Akers - Responder

    Eine super Anleitung. Damit war der Akkutausch problemlos möglich und hat 70 Minuten gedauert (bei langsamer/sorgfältiger Arbeit).

    Um Beschädigungen durch den Klebstoffentferner zu vermeiden, habe ich 3 alte Plastik- Scheckkarten langsam und vorsichtig unter die alten Akkus geschoben und so die Klebeverbindung gelöst (1 x von links, 1 x von rechts und 1 x mittig). Dann ließ sich das gesamte Paket herausziehen. Das alte Akkupaket habe ich wie ein rohes Ei behandelt, da es sehr prall aufgebläht und somit absolut brandgefährlich war. Es bereitet mir noch immer ein mulmiges Gefühl, eine solche Brandbombe auf meinem Schreibtisch gehabt zu haben.

    Der Ersatzakku passte perfekt ins Gehäuse, nachdem ich alle Klebestreifen-Reste entfernt hatte.

    Mit dieser Anleitung kann nahezu jeder den Austausch vornehmen - allerdings: genügend Zeit und Ruhe einplanen! Alle entfernten Schrauben unbedingt genau positioniert lagern. Dann geht’s im Zusammenbau wirklich flott.

    Mein MacBook Pro läuft nun wieder problemlos.

    Johannes Martin - Responder

    MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2015)

    Keyboard and trackpad were unresponsive after new batter install. As instructed in step 19 I reset both connections. Still no battery or keyboard. Ordered new trackpad cable. Still no working keyboard /trackpad. In an attempt to unseat reseat everything I then did the keyboard cable but no go. Second time I did keyboard the ZIF socket retainer popped loose. Tried to seat cable as carefully as possible and then covered with electrical tape.

    I should mention that keyboard backlight, power button function properly. Will re-run tests, resets, etc.

    Is there any way to fix the keyboard ZIF socket and/or remediate this?

    kevin - Responder

    I replaced the battery and it seemed to run good. Now every time I restart it shows the apple logo and then goes black again. If I push the power button for the whole boot up process it starts to work but powers down soon after. The same is the case when I reinstall the old battery and when I start up only with the charger and no battery. Any thoughts?

    johanneshasselbach - Responder

    In the few battery replacements I’ve done, in addition to making sure the battery connector is aligned properly the single screw needs to be aligned to start with. I’ve found that the rubber feet tend to be too high (the 2 in the middle of the computer). I believe it’s more the long tail on the underside of the rubber foot that prevents the bottom case from seating properly. As well the plastic around the other 2 feet (near the front of the computer) need to be flexed somewhat to help with bottom case alignment and seating…

    themacdoctor - Responder

    I skipped the steps using the liquid glue solver, and therefore also left out the removal of additional parts, so made it quite “simple” at the end. I was going through steps 1-7, 17&18, 21, and then from 26 onwards to the end. For 26, I used the sun to heat up the old batteries, after it it was quite easy to remove them with a creditcard. Thanks for all the details!

    TTony5 - Responder

    Hat 3 Tage funktioniert 🙄 Nun Startet er nicht mehr

    habe gemäß der Anleitung den Akku gewechselt, hat alles super easy geklappt.

    Werkzeug und Akku bei ifixit bestellt.

    Das MacBook hat danach 3 Tage funktioniert, hat geladen, entladen alles Prima.

    Dann lief er bis der Akku Leer war und seit dem startet das Gerät nicht mehr.

    Auch ein SMC oder NVRAM Reset helfen nicht.

    Das Ladesymbol am Ladekabel leuchtet, aber auch nach einer Nacht immernoch nicht grün.

    Wenn ich die besagten Tastenkombinationen drücke, ist beim SMC Reset zu erkennen das die Ladeleuchte danach für ca. 2 Sekunden grün wird.

    Hat jemand eine Idee ?

    Grillke - Responder

    This was a piece of cake, thanks to all the comments, and to my 7yo who taped and color-coded of all the screws on a sheet! I used very little heat probably because the batteries were very swollen. I used the acetone (sold with the kit) only to remove the glue.

    Marc - Responder

    I used alcohol prep pad with 70% alcohol to remove old battery adhesive from the laptop.

    Igor Kapitanker - Responder

    If you need to transfer the rubber spacers to the plastic frame of the new battery (because you got a cheap one that didn't come with any), take note that they come in 2 slightly different heights.

    The shorter ones go towards the front edge, the higher ones to the center of the MacBook.

    You can remove them by pushing them through from the bottom of the old frame with your screwdriver. Getting them into the new battery frame requires some fiddling. Try to push them in from the top while trying to get the wide part through the hole with a toothpick.

    Markus - Responder

    Everything seemed to go very well, except my keyboard doesnt work now. Track pad does. Any thoughts or suggestions? HELP!

    darrylsj2 - Responder

    Same problem

    Vaso -

    Just replaced the battery on my wife's early 2015 13" MacBook Pro that I handed down to her when I bought my M1 MacBook Pro from my doctoral program. I did my entire master's program with the 2015 and it has been a beast. She working on her master's with the machine now and the only thing that has slowed it down has been the battery. I'm grateful that iFixit offers these kits and guides. I was able to replace the battery in no time at all so the 2015 will keep on trucking!

    Jeff Call - Responder

    Neither my trackpad, screen or keyboard work after this . I followed all the instructions carefully. My laptop is completely ruined, I would avoid this product at all costs !!!!

    Baylor Brangers - Responder

    Just completed the change of battery on MBPro13 early 2015. Got the kit which was a god send, made everything much more straightforward. Took my time and no problems at all apart from shuffling of speakers and battery. Not sure why I waited over a year to do this! Bloated battery and keyboard solved! Started up great and now calibrating. Thanks!

    Siobhan Keleher - Responder

  37. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015, Trackpad: passo 37, imagem 1 %32
    • Remova os dez parafusos T3 de 2,8 mm que fixam a placa que cobre o trackpad à estrutura superior.

    These small T3 screws are in tight, same with the following step to remove the trackpad itself. Make sure you use a quality set of tools. Trust me, the cheap sets on amazon will break or strip the screw. If that happens you’ll have to use an easy out, or drill the hole.

    Dustin Steward - Responder

    You’re right Dustin. fyi grainger has a fine t3 screwdriver for$7

    Bill Boomhower - Responder

    The screws in these two steps have thread locker on them. Blue (removable) Loctite, I believe. You’ll hear a “snap” when you first turn them and that’s the Loctite breaking; following that they’re just like normal screws. You might consider putting a little bit of Blue Loctite on them before putting them back in. Be careful not to put too much though: don’t drip it onto the screw; instead, just squeeze the Loctite tube gently until a drop is sitting on the edge of the tube, then touch the tip of the screw to the drop and let capillary action suck a tiny bit of Loctite into the threads.

    Oddly, there were only 8 of these 10 T3 screws in my laptop…

    Rob Gorbet - Responder

  38. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 38, imagem 1 %32
    • Remova a placa que cobre o trackpad.

  39. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 39, imagem 1 %32
    • Remova os doze parafusos T5 de 2,4 mm que fixam o trackpad à estrutura superior.

    To continue from here to replace keyboard [in an early 2015, MacBook Pro retina 13”, remove I/O board following the iFixit guide for the I/O board replacement. A Youtube video (here, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eX2phuS4...) shows how to remove the keyboard, pulling some rivets as well. Importantly, the video shows how to remove the remaining rivets.

    I bought the replacement keyboard on eBay. Prior, I had purchased a “Pardsey” branded keyboard from Amazon that came with a backlight. Also keyboard screws recommended. The “Pardsey” keyboard, said to work with 2015s did not fit. I used their backlight and screws. Other helpful videos are on Youtube as well.

    To my surprise, as per the Youtube video, excellent screw holes for the tiny keyboard screws are there once the rivets are removed.

    Thomas Sturgill - Responder

    I got up to that stage but three of the screw’s head got mushed up and I couldn’t remove them… I am thinking of drilling through them. Did anyone face that problem?

    Also where can I can buy these 2.4 mm T5 screws?

    Benjamin Parpillon - Responder

    I’m facing the same problem

    I’m confused don’t know what to do now. Screws are hard and won’t turn. Please help!

    Raphael Nii Laate Lartey -

    For anyone else that runs into this problem, you can check out our guide to removing stripped screws for some more options.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I used a drill and an easy out. Could get them out. Anyone knows where I could find the screws?

    Benjamin Parpillon - Responder

  40. Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 40, imagem 1 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 40, imagem 2 %32 Substituição do trackpad do MacBook Pro 13" com tela Retina do início de 2015: passo 40, imagem 3 %32
    • Eleve e remova o trackpad da estrutura superior.

    Screws set with Locktite, may require a little more torque to remove.

    Michael Dittl - Responder

Conclusão

Para a remontagem de seu dispositivo, siga as instruções na ordem inversa.

Leve o seu lixo eletrônico para um ponto de recolha ou uma recicladora certificada.

O reparo não está indo conforme o planejado? Confira a nossa comunidade de Respostas para receber ajuda na solução do problema.

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Andrew Optimus Goldheart

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31 comentários

Is there a way to get a calibration software somehow ? Is Apple offering paid calibration service and what is the cost?

Windcatcher - Responder

I just followed this repair guide. NO calibration whatsoever needed. It worked like a charm (like new) once I assembled everything back together.

No software needed

David Chin -

If you do this yourself, Apple will not touch your laptop with a 10-foot pole, you will have voided any existing warranty. They would require you to purchase a new trackpad from them and they will install/calibrate it themselves

MacAmbulance - Responder

Can you only replace the control board of the trackpad ?

Gilliano - Responder

I don’t think they sell the control board separate from the trackpad panel - comes soldered together

David Chin -

“To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order. “ Ah, yes, because now that the adhesive on the battery has been removed it should apparently still work! What a dumb reassembly instruction. You don’t sell the adhesive strips on their own either.

Michael Rasmussen - Responder

This is a valid point, sir. I recently had to replace the battery and in going through that process realized once the battery was finally freed from the bondage of adhesive that was remarkably overboard for securing a battery in a laptop, there it was… access to the trackpad. All that was stopping me were those 10, I repeat 10! Torx! Screws! that were yet a different size than the majorrity of the torx screws securing other components. I never did venture further as I was ready to be finished, the task at hand had proved to be arduous enough. It does give one a good perspective however this mother &&^&@* is NOT an easy to repair laptop. While the potential exists for many of the components to be replaced, it certainly isn’t a cake walk.

eeM Gee -

Worked like a charm! In my case I just needed to replace the Flex cable connecting main board with trackpad. I followed steps 1-7, 17-20.

My wifes MAC was already out of warranty, and the official authorized service in Slovakia asked 480 € for replacement of the whole trackpad, battery, keyboard and topcase. So I bought the flex from eBay, replaced it myself and fixed it for just 15 €. Really really HUGE THANKS for this repair guide

Brachaci Brachacovsky - Responder

I just needed to replace the Flex cable connecting main board with trackpad. I followed steps 1-7, 17-20.

Thx for this comment! Laptop fully functional again.

Symptoms I noticed:

- first my touchpad didn’t work during login (1 or 2 times), but did after logging in (keyboard still worked)

- later my touchpad and keyboard didn’t work (“no keyboard connected“ warning), even after logging in with usb keyboard

Tjen Wellens -

I just finished! It had a million screws! Ok, so first of all there is NO adjustment needed for the haptic feedback. Works perfect. This is for the LATE 2015 13.3” MacBook Pro retina. I did not use the microwave heat thing nor did I use the adhesive remover liquid. I used a two inch paint spatula and slid it under the battery one at a time extremely slow and carefully lifted each battery from the edge and let the adhesive slowly separate as I i pried it up. The batteries did not tear but the adhesive was not reusable. I used double sided tape when I put them back in. Be prepared and make sure you have all three screw drivers before you begin. One last thing, I had to go back to the store three times because I kept ruining the screw driver heads. These screws are so tiny and in there really good in some places. The screws won’t strip but the screw driver sure will. Push down hard and don’t tighten to hard!

Erik - Responder

I had to only do apart of this tutorial, which was to replace the trackpad cable, because my keyboard and mouse stopped working the other night. Very simple and this was very helpful. Like many others have found that most replacement cables are a little longer than the originals but I just gently bent the cable along with the contours of the plastic and other pieces that it sat on top of.

Bradley Clampitt - Responder

Followed the tutorial, worked perfectly. However, now my keyboard stopped working (the trackpad is ok now). Any ideas where I may have gone wrong?

Bert Van Wassenhove - Responder

How are we supposed to glue the battery back together? Should we heat it up to activate the adhesive strip, I tried it and it worked only weakly….

Should we use super glue?

benjamin parpillon - Responder

As a general rule, you shouldn’t re-use the battery once it has been removed—you want to replace it with a new one. The battery isn’t designed to be removed and can easily get damaged in the process. Reinstalling it afterward puts your MacBook at risk and may be a fire hazard. Remove the battery, remove the old adhesive as instructed, and replace it with a new one. The replacement battery should have new adhesive pre-installed, so there’s no need for any super glue. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Does the trackpad replacement requires that the battery also should be replaced? I have a crackling sound under the trackpad. Genius mentioned that the circuitry attached to the trackpad is making sound because of the spill. I would like to know if i should by battery and the trackpad and replace both or just trackpad with all the tools.

Thank you

Kartik Shah - Responder

Are there other tutorials for replacing the force touch trackpad for this model?

The one here is a bit different to the one I have, though both are for the same force touch model macbook pro.

For example;

T5 screws in my trackpad cover plate are different from T3 screws for the cover plate in the above guide.

Here is the replacement part I bought.

Thanks,

Monsieur Bond - Responder

Hello all, this is the first time I’m typing anything beyond the basic tests after replacing my trackpad cable. It wouldn’t have seemed obvious to me, but after going to the Apple store to investigate my ‘keyboard not working’ issues, they reported that I might, first, try replacing the trackpad cable. For $80 U.S. they’d order and install the cable for me, <fingers crossed>. I Decided I’d rather do that myself. I ordered the part from fixit for $10 plus $5 shipping (and some stickers too) and put my two specialty screwdrivers, spudger and finesse top the test. Other than skipping from Step 3 to 17, my keyboard worked right after I powered back up. Super happy with fixit. Thanks for making this site, thanks Andrew for making this page, thanks everyone else for commenting. Can we make sure there’s a way to let people who are trying to resolve the KEYBOARD NOT WORKING issue might actually be a try-replacing-the-trackpad-cable SOLUTION?

thanks again, Brandt

Brandt Sennhenn - Responder

I would start off replacing the cable then you’ll likely need a new touchpad if that fails to fix things.

Dan -

Hi, my trackpad isn’t vibrating, do i need to replace only the cable or replace the trackpad with new one?

anakin skywalker - Responder

You need a new touchpad unit

Dan -

Do i need to buy a new battery for this repair?

Benjamin H - Responder

It would make sense! Your current battery likely needs replacing soon anyways. It depends how difficult it was to take out and if it’s damaged in the process (which you often do).

Dan -

Empecé a seguir este tutorial porque tanto el trackpad como el teclado dejaron de funcionar. Lo seguí paso a paso hasta el punto de quitar las baterías. Al no tener a mano esa herramienta, decidí esperar a que me llegase para continuar.

Antes de cerrarlo, limpié toda la placa y los conectores con una brocha y Alcohol isopropílico. Cuando acabé lo volví a conectar todo y lo cerré de nuevo. Al encender el portátil para ver si todo esta bien, me di cuenta de que tanto el teclado como el Trackpad funcionaban perfectamente. SOLO NECESITABAN UNA BUENA LIMPIEZA.

Gracias por la guía de desmontaje.

Naomi Díaz - Responder

I just did this today, my liquid damaged laptop is now working perfectly! I was a bit intimidated by the battery replacement but it really wasn’t so bad. I used 99% alcohol and an old credit card and with a bit of cautious perseverance it all came up. The hardest part was replacing the trackpad cable, it’s too long and has to be bent to fit into the case, I was scared to pinch it into a proper “fold”. My case is a tiny bit poofed out now and I can’t get the remaining 2 screws in. Not sure whether to try again with it or just leave it now. In any case I’m happy that the keyboard and trackpad is functional again!

Georgina Hardcastle - Responder

Can I purchase the trackpad cable by itself?

Faliere Dieujuste - Responder

If you find it, why not?

Daniele Carminati -

thanks for the great guide. I was trying to decide between just buying a top case on ebay that had the trackpad still mounted, or following this guide. but as I wanted to put in a new battery also this worked out perfectly….

Phillip Sage - Responder

FIXED my issue with the keyboard and trackpad not working. Started with the computer shutting down and not being responsive for a day. Then it turned into a couple of days in between uses. Both the keyboard and the trackpad were completely unresponsive EXCEPT for the power key. I tried resetting the SMC and PRAM which did nothing. Followed these steps after purchasing the full kit from iFixIt and BOOM!!! All systems go!!! Plus, now my battery is fresh! These instructions were great - made the process very manageable for someone with a very limited tech knowledgeable. The side-by-side pictures were a huge help - you NEVER see that kind of detail and clarity from pictures in instructions. THANK YOU for this!!!

Scott Deady - Responder

My taptic engine is not working. Should I replace the touchpad or the cable?

soldatov.mike - Responder

Is it the same for 15" middle 2015?

giport - Responder

No, review Steps 26 & 27 for the trackpad and Step 33 for the keyboard in this guide MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2015 Logic Board Replacement.

How about posing your Q’s in the Answers forum

Dan -

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