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Use this guide to replace the SSD in your Steam Deck.

Before you begin, completely power down and unplug all cables from your Steam Deck. Remember to follow general electrostatic discharge (ESD) safety procedures while repairing the device.

These steps only describe how to physically remove and replace your SSD. You may need additional software tools and procedures to install an OS and get the replacement SSD to function as intended.

    • To minimize risk of damage, turn on your Steam Deck and allow the battery to discharge below 25% before starting your repairs. A charged lithium-ion battery can be very dangerous if accidentally punctured.

    • Before starting this guide, power down your Steam Deck and unplug any cables.

    • As an extra precaution, Valve recommends putting your Steam Deck into battery storage mode within the BIOS before starting any internal repairs. Read how to do that here.

    • If you have a microSD card installed, make sure to remove it before opening the Steam Deck.

    • Use a Phillips driver to remove the eight screws securing the back cover:

    • Four 9.5 mm screws

    • Four 5.8 mm screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your Steam Deck.

    there should be a picture of the SD card slot at the start of every Steam Deck teardown. i know the note is there but i generally use the pictures to guide me and forgetting to remove the SD card is a very critical step

    Nathan Barrow - Responder

    What is the the #1 philips used for? Only the #0 is mentioned in the instructions.

    Christopher Martin - Responder

    I wish they would specify which size to use for which screws.

    Mark D -

    Be careful you can strip the screws take your time

    I use PH00 bit

    jaybush74 - Responder

    I used the PH1 bit for this. You can use smaller bits but ideally there should be no play of the bit in the screw head.

    Charles Semple - Responder

  1. Steam Deck SSD Replacement, Unclip the back cover: passo 2, imagem 1 %32 Steam Deck SSD Replacement, Unclip the back cover: passo 2, imagem 2 %32
    • Insert an opening pick into the thin gap between the back cover and the front shell, along the edge of the right grip.

    • Pry up on the back cover to release it from the locking clips.

    I found it easiest to start this process at the top of the device near the fan exit.

    Peter Lindberg - Responder

    second that and inserting the pick in the bottom middle and sliding the pick to each side

    Sub -

    I also found the top near the fan exit to be easier

    Travis Patton -

    same; i pried from the top of the screen area. I was unable to find an opening on the side

    Dennis Wu - Responder

    I also started from the middle of the deck and worked my way out since I couldn't get a grip with the pick on the deck's side grips. Since this is a common step for pretty much all guides for opening the deck I think it's also worth noting that you should be careful not to bend the trims/seams where the front and back covers meet with the pick. When I first opened my deck you can definitely see where I nudged the pick in between the covers since I was probably using too much force on the pick itself.

    Kaleb McKone - Responder

    It would be useful to note here that if you want to insert the little blue triangular iFixit opening picks into the right side along the edge, there isn't actually a gap as the directions say, at least not on newer Decks. You'll be making the initial gap using the pick. Brace it on something because you will need to use enough downward force that you're flexing the pick a bit and it'll probably be digging into the skin of a bare hand. With enough force suddenly it will make a click and go in just a bit, and then you're in business.

    CaptFrost - Responder

  2. Steam Deck SSD Replacement, Remove the back cover: passo 3, imagem 1 %32 Steam Deck SSD Replacement, Remove the back cover: passo 3, imagem 2 %32 Steam Deck SSD Replacement, Remove the back cover: passo 3, imagem 3 %32
    • Once the clips are disconnected from one edge, the rest disconnect easily.

    • Grip the back cover at the opening you just created and pull it up and away from the device to unclip the long edges.

    • Remove the back cover.

    If you have an SD card, you will want to take it out. I followed the guide and didn't think about the SD card I had inside. When I went to snap the case back on it clapped shut on the exposed SD card, shearing it in half and leaving the bottom half stuck in the SD card slot. I am still endeavoring to get it out.

    Novice - Responder

  3. Steam Deck SSD Replacement, Uncover the hidden shield screw: passo 4, imagem 1 %32 Steam Deck SSD Replacement, Uncover the hidden shield screw: passo 4, imagem 2 %32
    • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the piece of foil tape covering the hidden screw on the board shield.

    • If possible, try not to rip or tear this tape so it can be reused. If necessary, you can fashion a replacement by cutting a piece of aluminum foil tape to fit.

    Use some heat here from a hairdryer to make this part easier.

    If you screw up here you can replace the little aluminium square with some aluminium tape from Amazon. No less than 50 microns thick, slightly thicker is fine. and the square is 13mm both ways.

    Matt S - Responder

  4. Steam Deck SSD Replacement, Remove the shield screws: passo 5, imagem 1 %32
    • Use a Phillips driver to remove the three screws securing the board shield:

    • One 3.4 mm screw

    • Two 3.7 mm screws

    The procedure ended here for me, used an ifixit PH 00 bit on the screw behind the aluminium tape, bit wouldnt bite too great, one wrong twist and the screw was stripped. Not sure who or what initially screwed in that particular screw as the rest of the screws on the shield were fine, but boy is it in there tight. So now i have a stripped screw and a botched ssd replacement, don't think valve will let me RMA for this, but i'll give it a try and update accordingly.

    Y. van S - Responder

    I think the tendency is to go too small on the screwdriver bits because you're working on small electronics.

    I used the PH1 bit on the screw under the foil and the PH0 bit for the two remaining screws without any problems.

    Charles Semple - Responder

    What does this shield actually do? Some kind of magnetic protection?

    Corey Cleric - Responder

  5. Steam Deck SSD Replacement, Remove the shield: passo 6, imagem 1 %32 Steam Deck SSD Replacement, Remove the shield: passo 6, imagem 2 %32

    When putting back on, run a pick along the edge of the shield between the wires to make sure nothing is pinching and the wires are clear of the shield before screwing down.

    Matt S - Responder

  6. Steam Deck SSD Replacement, Disconnect the battery: passo 7, imagem 1 %32 Steam Deck SSD Replacement, Disconnect the battery: passo 7, imagem 2 %32 Steam Deck SSD Replacement, Disconnect the battery: passo 7, imagem 3 %32
    • Grip the battery cable by its pull tab and pull it directly away from the motherboard to disconnect it.

    After fully reassembling my device I found that my battery was not showing any stats anymore. I couldn't start the device without being plugged in, however if I restarted it would stay on even if my power cable was detached. Battery showed 0%. It turns out I had not fully reinserted the battery cable at this stage during reassembly. MAKE SURE YOU PUSH IT ALL THE WAY BACK IN!

    Michael Hoffmann - Responder

    Awesome thanks for this tip!

    petergeranio -

    It is helpful to lift up gently with a the tapered end of a spudger underneath the tucked-in portion of the battery cable, creating a bit of flex in the cable before pulling on the pull tab. I found that without doing so, the fabric pull-tab simply tore off of the cable under light-to-moderate force (the fabric itself ripped cleanly across, like a paper towel). Careful, gentle pressure with a spudger can be used to remove the plug by prying gently on the rear ridge of the plastic plug (not the wire!) if this happens.

    Gene Eckser - Responder

    This is exactly what happened to me. Maybe it was a pull tab previously, mine was a ribbon cable that tore - captured the image here:

    Ian Wootten -

    I found it less scary and easier to remove the battery connection by using a fingernail on the ridge and pushing it off the connector. I felt like pulling on the battery cable was too harsh.

    montgomery mchargue - Responder

    Upon plugging the battery back in, I found it easy to use two spudgers- one on each side- to pull/push the connector back into it's port. Be careful to not put any pressure on the battery wires themselves.

    montgomery mchargue - Responder

    When reconnecting the battery cable, you'll know when it's inserted and power is restored, because the white LED will illuminate at the top of the Deck near the power button. You should be able to see it while you're reconnecting the battery cable

    Michael Davis - Responder

    Why not just let the battery discharge completely and then not have to disconnect it?

    Jeffrey Martin - Responder

    Completely discharging a battery reduces its lifespan. It's completely unnecessary.

    Stefan Camporese (CENTER) -

  7. Steam Deck SSD Replacement, Remove the SSD screw: passo 8, imagem 1 %32
    • Use a Phillips driver to remove the 3.4 mm screw securing the SSD.

  8. Steam Deck SSD Replacement, Remove the SSD: passo 9, imagem 1 %32 Steam Deck SSD Replacement, Remove the SSD: passo 9, imagem 2 %32
    • With the SSD screw removed, the SSD will pop up at a shallow angle.

    • Grip the end of the SSD and pull it away from its M.2 board connector to remove it.

    • During reassembly, insert the SSD at a shallow angle into its board connector, and secure it back into its horizontal position with the SSD screw.

  9. Steam Deck SSD Replacement, Remove the SSD shielding: passo 10, imagem 1 %32 Steam Deck SSD Replacement, Remove the SSD shielding: passo 10, imagem 2 %32 Steam Deck SSD Replacement, Remove the SSD shielding: passo 10, imagem 3 %32
    • The SSD is wrapped in ESD shielding that will need to be transferred to the replacement SSD.

    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the shielding off of the SSD.

    • If the shielding feels stuck, use a pair of tweezers to peel off and remove the shielding instead, taking care to keep it in the best condition possible.

    • Only the SSD remains.

    • The Steam Deck uses a single-sided M.2 2230.

    If ESD shielding needed to be replaced, what would be recommended?

    Jeffrey Martin - Responder


To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Steam Deck answers community for help.

45 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Carsten Frauenheim

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idk why valve couldn't have just made the m.2 slot a 2230/2242/2260 & 2280 m.2 NVMe SSDs support??/ they could have done it! im hoping someone out there can make a new back shell that includes the nvme. m2 adapter riser cable extender that moves the nvme ssd to the back case somewhere else with more room and to also not only allow for better cooling of the SSD but also allows us to use any size m.2 nvme SSDs like 2230 up to 2280 m.2 size ssds as i have tons of gen3 x4 2280 nvme ssd lying around from all my AMD ryzen machines from my 1800X X370 all way up to X570 and 5700X / 5800X & 5800X3D etc..

adamnfs2 - Responder

I think it has to do with power draw... The Steam Deck isn't designed to cope with a incredibly fast (and power hungry) 2280 drive. I learned this the hard way on my laptop. I changed the drive myself to a 5500MB/s one and I could tell that not only did the SSD run hotter but also the components surrounding the SSD, it completely changed the thermal characteristics of the device. I added this drive to my desktop computer instead and bought a low powered one for the laptop. By having a 2230 drive on the Steam Deck, Valve forces users to choose drives that are typically designed for small and low powered devices.

Dennis -

and possibly even a m.2 door/cover to allow easier m.2 ssd removal W/O having to disassemble our steam deck! if the battery needs unplugged then a battery "KILLSWITCH" or "BATTERY DISCONNECT" Switch be also added to the decks after market backplate/cover to allow the steam decks battery to be disconnected from the unit with a toggle of a switch? allows for safter disassembly and m.2 SSD replacement with out having to repeatedly disassemble the steam deck....(SSD nand flash memory can fail) if i had the tools and capabilities to do this myself i would/ but i still dont even have my steam deck yet (Q3 July -Sept. 2022 ;( my friend just got his (ordered on same day) so WTF is mine valve!?????

adamnfs2 - Responder

It's already incredibly impressive that the Deck does what it does, at its price point, with its form factor. It'd be even bigger with any other physical features like that.

The unit isn't necessarily designed with modularity in mind, at least not first and foremost. People aren't "supposed" to be replacing these according to Valve; if that were the case then the internals would have to be shifted around quite a bit to ensure that people wouldn't be able to break stuff when they swap drives/etc. Although this is a very easy repair, people will inevitably mess it up. Valve doesn't want to have to replace everyone's devices if they destroy the internals on their own volition.

The fact that the SSD replacement process is this easy, and it doesn't instantly void your warranty, is amazing. Very few companies have this type of policy with hardware of this nature. A handheld device with fully upgrade-able storage to this extent has been neigh unheard of until now.

ralkia -

eh. i guess pwr draw// but adding a 5500mbps nvme sounds like a gen4 pci-e nvme m.2 im sure the steam deck (even thougt it is running AMD's Zen2 (4c/8t ) CPU cores with a small cluster of( i think) 8cus (in the decks APU) but i dont think it has gen4 pci-e support to using an m.2 gen4 speed (4000mps+ (usually gen4 nvme are (1st gen ones like saberent rocket 4(OG model) below specs..

Tech Specs




Up to 5,000 Seq. Read /&/ 4,400 MB/s Seq.Write (yeah this one would not work) but I do have some low power (2280) m.2 nvme gen3 ssds that came from older laptops!

**(Steam Deck cant do these speed cuz pci-e gen4 isnt even supported(not implemented in the apus I/O :( Not even in any laptop APU (except new Ryzen 6000 series with RDNA2 RX 680m igp with (12CU's) (& up to 8c/16t zen3)& does have Pci-e gen4 i think) I wish valve would have used this APU / SoC instead ( this steam deck would have been a much more capable Unit) & i would have paid up to $1000($ or 999) with a 2280 m2

adamnfs2 - Responder

GPD WinMax 2

Ryan Couch -

edit last above ( zen2 4c/8t with 8cu rdna2 igp steam deck (aka Van Goah)

adamnfs2 - Responder

I've been googling for 15 minutes what size SSD I actually need to purchase for this swap, I've watched two 10 minute YouTube videos. All I can find are videos and articles telling me why I shouldn't use the wrong size- not what the correct size is, even this article leaves that information out!

Mark Gibbons - Responder

It's a 2230 size, single sided.

To be honest, this is a pretty easy answers to get. Just type: "steam deck ssd size" into goole and it is literally the 1st answer it will pull up, highlighted mind you.

Are you using bing or something for your research?

Alex Couture -

Would anyone recommend a thinner Thermal Pad under the ESD shielding on the SSD itself?

(I have started doing this religiously in my PCs/Laptops with great results - Even with no Heat Sync.. Just Pad... So I was wondering if anyone would adamantly recommend against it)

DanielF823 - Responder

Great guide, but looks like I messed up somewhere when it comes to opening the Steam Deck itself. I was able to put in the replacement SSD and reboot the system, but the top portion of the back plate forms a gap on the top instead of being fully closed. Any help for this? I'm willing to buy an entirely back plate/front plate if I need to.

Ralph - Responder

Did you ever figure this out? Take out the skews again. Remember that the longer screws in the holes furthest out to the sides and the shorter screws go in the 4 holes closest to the center(look at the first picture in Step one). If it's not that, take out all the screws and pry it open again and see if something is there up top that could be causing it not to be able to close. You should be able to completely close it if nothing is in the way. Don't put the screws in until you are able to actually close it.

TalonJH -

Here's a screenshot as a reference. (Sorry for the low quality)

Ralph - Responder

what about putting it back together without messing any thing up

ellis roberts - Responder

No purpose in tearing up the ESD shield. All you need to do is slide it off.

Rolo256 - Responder

hello can someone help me i got a new ssd for my steam deck everything was installed according to the instructions via usb recovery mode the error always occurs I eventually get into a desktop mode, however when i try to Re-image I get the error:- !! /dev/nvme0n1 does not exist -- no nvme drive detected? Can anyone help me the hard drives on the PC go bad, so they can't be

Andreas Ulrich - Responder

I was really disappointed with the ifixit screwdriver.. but having the kit was invaluable for this guide :)

Michael Godel - Responder

Will the device utilize more than 512Gb? Like a 1Tb? M.2 2230?

Warren Blake - Responder

Will the device utilize more than 512Gb? Like a 1Tb? M.2 2230?

Thinking of purchasing the 64Gb model then replacing the storage. (40 years Electronics Tech.)

Warren Blake - Responder

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