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Introdução

The upper case assembly includes the keyboard. Use this guide to replace the entire case/keyboard assembly as a single unit.

    • Before proceeding, unplug and power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Remove the following eight screws securing the lower case:

    • Two 1.8 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Four 2.9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Two 6.1 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Note the orientation of the screws as you remove them—they need to be reinstalled at a slight angle.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    IMPORTANT. You’re not removing the bottom, yet. This step is solely to separate the panel from its clips, permitting inside access.

    Chris Leeds - Responder

    The screws go in tangent to the curve of the case. If you aren’t used to handling small hardware try turning the screw counterclockwise while you feel for the hole until you feel it drop, that means the threads have aligned. It takes only light finger torque when they are threaded correctly

    abscate - Responder

  1. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 2, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 2, imagem 2 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 2, imagem 3 %32
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case, starting from the rear of the MacBook between the hinges.

    • Lift the lower case only slightly to avoid damaging the cables that connect the lower case to the upper case.

    • Keeping a firm grip, lift steadily until the lower case separates slightly from the upper case.

    • You may experience a lot of resistance when lifting the lower case. If necessary, slide an opening pick or other ESD-safe pry tool down the side edges of the lower case to pop the two hidden retaining clips free.

    • During reassembly, to re-engage the clips, press firmly near both side edges of the lower case (near where the pick is inserted in the third image) until you hear the clips snap into place.

  2. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 3, imagem 1 %32
    • While holding the lower case in place, carefully flip the MacBook over so the Apple logo faces up.

  3. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 4, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 4, imagem 2 %32
    • Lift the upper case and display together from the front edge and raise it to about a 45˚ angle.

    • It may be helpful to prop the MacBook open in this position for the next step.

  4. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 5, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 5, imagem 2 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 5, imagem 3 %32
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to press and hold the small gold 'battery disconnect' button.

    • If the power LED is lit up, continue holding the button until the LED goes dark, and then release. This may take up to 10 seconds.

    • If the LED does not light, release the button after 5-10 seconds. Press and hold it again for 5-10 seconds, and release. Finally, press and hold it a third time for 5-10 seconds, and release.

    • This step ensures the MacBook is fully powered down and safe to work on.

    cannot turn on the led after replacing the new screen, even after following the turn on instructions upper…

    Laurent Pierre - Responder

    on reassembly, I had to plug my laptop in to reactivate the LED light

    aaron_vandyke2003 - Responder

    Does anyone know how to turn it back on..? I plugged the laptop in and saw the LED Light, but it won’t turn on

    mmcsorley - Responder

    After reassembly I could not restart my MacBook using the power button or after SMC reset (shift-ctrl-option-pwr). I had to connect my MacBook to its charging cable to get the battery LED to re-illuminate. After that it was all normal.

    Richard Lovatt - Responder

    It took a few minutes on the power adapter for my computer to turn on after it was reassembled.

    Luk Chl - Responder

    mine doesnt turn on w anything, i forgot to click the buton to disconnect :_/

    cristian.campuzano - Responder

    Same issue as above peeps. Followed ifixit directions verbatim and wasn't getting anything after screwing everything back in. Plugged in original 45W power block and waited, after few minutes battery LED came on and a min. or two after that, was able to get screen to turn on. Hope this helps somebody else.

    Brandon Elliott - Responder

    May I ask how to get screen to turn on. I cannot get it work..

    Xiubo Zhang - Responder

    There needs to be mention of procedure for getting the repaired MacBook to power up again after the repair is completed.

    I also am running into the issue described by others. MB will not come on again, even after being plugged into power and performing an SMC reset.

    Kinda stuck….

    Carlos Perez - Responder

    Hi, I tried everything and my MacBook will not start up after replacing the bottom case with a battery installed. I decided to put back on the old case with the battery that needs servicing and it still will not power on. I am fairly experienced taking apart laptops I was an Apple service tech for 15 years. this has me baffalled. Any hints BTY the logic board does not show any power coming from the AC charger the power LED is not lit up

    eestern - Responder

    I had trouble with this as well. What worked for me is to plug in power using the stock 29W USB C power brick that originally came with this Macbook. Trying other, lower powered, power adapters did not work. Use this advice with caution as there are multiple (i.e substantiated) comments that indicate that first power up should only be with a 5W adapter! So perhaps try this strict sequence: try with a 5W adapter, then and only then try with the 29W adapter. Or even slightly better, if everything else has completely failed, only then try full power 29W adapter.

    LexxOne - Responder

    How long did you wait to get it power back on? I replaced my logic board and tried to connect the power charger but it doesnt still turn on.

    Herb -

    The easiest error to make when working on this motherboard if applying full voltage after re-assembly. According to the big A, the motherboard on these Macbooks need to be “woken up” with a 5 watt (phone size) charger. Applying the normal 29 watts may render your system unusable.

    Noah - Feb 18, 2021

    Hello Noah,

    It seems your remark is only valid for the 2015 and not the 2016 edition.

    David - Mar 3, 2021

    While it’s true that the internal documentation specifies this for a 2015, after frying 2 motherboards with a normal charger, I spoke with the engineers and they told me that this also applies to 2016 and 2017 macbook main logic boards. I say- It can’t hurt to try to wake them up with a 5 watt charger first! Please take 5 minutes to save your motherboard.

    Noah - Mar 4, 2021

    Noah - Responder

    I plugged in my charger and the LED came on. The computer gets warm but the screen is not turning on. The keyboards doesn’t seem to respond to recovery options. Any suggestions?

    J'Trel Sapp -

  5. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 6, imagem 1 %32
    • Close the MacBook and carefully flip it upside-down.

  6. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 7, imagem 1 %32
    • Lifting from the front edge, open the lower case to an angle of about 45°.

    • Take care not to damage the ribbon cables that still attach the lower case to the MacBook.

  7. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 8, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 8, imagem 2 %32
    • Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector.

    Where can I find a replacement cable?

    John Comix - Responder

  8. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 9, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 9, imagem 2 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 9, imagem 3 %32
    • Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.

    The small retainer flips up about 90 degrees from locked position

    abscate - Responder

    The keyboard and trackpad don't work after the repair, what can I do? They don't even show up in System Report.

    bredelet - Responder

    I found that the connector was not pushed enough in. Works now.

    bredelet -

  9. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 10, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 10, imagem 2 %32
    • Disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable from the trackpad by pulling it gently through its slot in the frame.

  10. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 11, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 11, imagem 2 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 11, imagem 3 %32
    • Carefully close the MacBook and flip it over once again, so that the Apple logo faces up.

    • Lifting from the front edge, raise the upper case/display assembly to about a 90° angle, and prop it up against something sturdy so you don't have to hold it.

    • Add a piece of tape near the track pad to secure the upper case and prevent accidental movement.

    • It's possible to open the MacBook all the way and lay both sides down flat, but this may damage the flex cables and is not recommended.

  11. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 12, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

    From my experience it’s important to carefully press and hold the small button above left of the Battery Discharge label. Use a plastic spudger or finger tip. The illuminated yellow LED to the right will go off. I believe this discharges remaining electricity from logic board protecting it during repair.

    * I cannot find any documentation to support this, but I have damaged boards by not including this step.

    Chris Leeds - Responder

    What is with the all plastic end of this cable that appears to just be glued right on top of its connector?

    Does the new one just stick back right on top?

    (In this photo it is the bottom side of the cable below the white water indicator sticker)

    Elizabeth Erkelens - Responder

    • As an added precaution, you may physically disconnect the battery by inserting a battery isolation pick between the logic board and the battery connector.

    What happen if you don’t disconnect the battery? I didn’t and I saw smoke coming out when I connected the pad flex cable and the computer still started up

    DSANTIAGOSOY - Responder

    If you don’t disconnect the battery you might accidentally short something on the logic board since power is still running through everything while you’re working on it. You can complete the repair without disconnecting the battery, but you risk accidentally breaking your logic board. It’s much safer to keep the battery disconnected while you’re working.

    Adam O'Camb -

  12. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement, USB-C and Audio Jack Disconnect: passo 14, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the two screws securing the USB-C port cable bracket:

    • 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw

    • 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    I’m at this point and the 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw won’t budge and now I fear it could be stripped? Now what???

    Y'vonne Feeney - Responder

    You could try to cover the tip of your screwdriver with a thin rubber glove to improve the grip on the screw while applying a little more downward force for the initial jolt. That might loosen the screw.

    Tobias Isakeit -

    The USB-C ribbon cable breaks very easily when being attached. Any particular tricks for ensuring that it won’t snap somewhere while being installed?

    bfg737 - Responder

    With my iFixit screwdriver kit, these were Philips #000, not #00.

    Paul Nishikawa - Responder

    This was #000 for me as well

    Adam Hupp - Responder

    I was at the 1.1 mm and couldn't get it open with the 00. I ordered the 000 but it still won't budge. I tried the glove idea and as much pressure as I'm comfortable giving. I'm pretty sure the screw is stripped. Any ideas or advice or am I in trouble?

    johnny gutierrez - Responder

  13. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 15, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 15, imagem 2 %32
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port cable bracket by prying it straight up from the logic board.

    • To reconnect this cable, first line up the metal bracket over the screw holes, then press down on the middle of the bracket. Make sure it's aligned correctly, or you may damage the connector.

    At re-assembling, when you reconnect this cable, pressing centre of metal plat is extremely important. You should feel tiny click when it connected properly. I encountered unrecognised external HDD and external monitor through USB-C even though charging in/out was OK, i.e failure of data transmission. I needed to re-open the back cover and pressed the metal plate again, then USB-C connection worked properly.

    Aki Mochi - Responder

  14. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 16, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 16, imagem 2 %32
    • Use a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the audio jack board cable ZIF connector.

  15. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 17, imagem 1 %32
    • Disconnect the audio jack board ribbon cable by pulling it straight back out of the ZIF connector.

    • During reassembly, orient the ribbon cable so that the side with the white stripe faces you, as shown.

    • At this point it is possible to open the macbook all the way and to lay it flat on a table without causing any damage to the flex cables.

    Make sure at reassembly that you insert the ribbon cable in to the jack board fully. It seems to take an extra push. The white line should disappear when it is seated properly. I didn’t get it in all the way by a fraction of a mm and had no sound (internal speakers weren’t even recognized). Went back and seated the cable fully and sound was back.

    Timothy Dinkelman - Responder

    I had that same problem, too.

    lyonmissions - Responder

    Had the same problem, (no audio after reassembly) it did have the startup chime though.
    after re-seating the ribbon cable, it worked for a few days, but then nothing after waking up.
    not even the startup chime.
    Any body got pointers on how to check if i broke the cable or the board? (looks fine...)

    Christian Stanner - Responder

  16. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement, Lower Case Assembly Removal: passo 18, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement, Lower Case Assembly Removal: passo 18, imagem 2 %32
    • Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the display cable connector.

    I won’t have my daughter’s MacBook with its banana encrusted USB-C port until she returns home during spring break — just doing some homework before then. But if the case can lie flat after the audio board ZIF cable is detached, why do you need to detach the display cable connector (Steps 19-24)? It seems that you could jump straight to Step 25 to replace the USB-C port and avoid those steps.

    John Conklin - Responder

    Hi John, disconnecting the display cable is not necessary, but is recommended to avoid accidental damage to the cable during the rest of the procedure. If you feel confident in the safety of the cable then you can skip ahead. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

    I skipped ahead to step 25 successfully by making a secure stand for the display and being careful to not strain cables. If you are decently motor skilled this saves you 15 minutes or so. Not recommended if you live with cats who love little screws to chase

    abscate - Responder

  17. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 19, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 19, imagem 2 %32
    • It's possible the metal retaining flap on the display cable connector may flip open, remaining stuck to the tape.

    • If so, use the flat end of a spudger to hold down the retaining flap while peeling the tape away with the tweezers.

  18. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 20, imagem 1 %32
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the display cable connector.

    • Try to keep it clear of the tape, or it may re-adhere and make cable removal difficult.

    I found it helpful to stick one of the triangular picks in between the table and the retaining flap to keep them separated.

    Kofi Kantanka - Responder

    • Carefully slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the display cable to separate the adhesive holding it to the lower case.

    • Take care not to damage the cable. If the adhesive is very strong, heat the case directly beneath the cable with an iOpener to soften the adhesive, and then try again.

    Great, another new fragile display cable to deal with. Thanks Apple.

    maccentric - Responder

  19. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 22, imagem 1 %32
    • Disconnect the display cable by gently pulling it straight out of its connector.

    • Immediately close the retaining flap.

    • The flap must remain closed when the cable is reinserted during reassembly. Line up the cable with the gold contacts facing down, and gently slide it into the closed connector. Take care not to crimp or damage the cable. When fully inserted, the indentations on the sides should not be visible.

    I’m pretty sure I understand the instructions here, but I had to think about it a little longer because “… must remain closed when the cable is reinserted during reassembly …” was not clear to me right away. The retaining flap I discovered, is super delicate, and hence my paranoia, so I wanted to point this out in case anyone else felt like me: ''''Is it correct to assume that your instructions could be interpreted as:

    “After disconnecting the cable, close the retaining flap for now to avoid damaging it. When reinstalling the cable, flip up the retaining flap once again, realign and slide the cable with gold contacts facing down.”

    I bent the USB-C corner of the lower case from a short drop onto laminate flooring, so in I went to shape it so the edge wouldn’t snag or scratch things. I am typing on my MacBook that received the body work.

    Thank you for your guidance!

    John Torquido - Responder

    For @seriouslyjohn and anyone else who might be wondering: “the flap must remain closed when the cable is reinserted” means keep it closed. Do not reopen the flap to insert the cable; just insert it carefully while leaving the flap closed. I know it probably runs counter to the procedure you’re used to, but Apple’s documentation is very clear on this, and I have to think it’s for a reason. My advice is to follow the instructions as written and don’t try to reinterpret them ;) Congrats on a successful repair!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Oops! I most definitely did NOT reinsert the cable into a closed connector. We can only wonder why Apple instructed this step to be counter-intuitive. I’ll pay closer attention to any weirdness that may arise, but the MacBook has been traveling and performing as it should; I’m going to avoid reopening the case, as easy as it is, until I have a good reason to do so. Thank you for replying and updating the guide!

    John Torquido - Responder

    I would argue that you should NOT close the retaining flap. I followed the directions to the letter, and when I started up the MacBook, the display did not register since the I wasn’t able to reseed the cable fully without worrying about tearing the cable. I did hear the computer charging and saw that the keyboard lit up, so I knew the MacBook was working besides the display. I looked up another video on Youtube that left the retaining flap open when reinstalling, so I took apart the Macbook again and tried it that way, and IT WORKED! The cable wasn’t fully reseated with the retainer open and I’m not sure if that was my fault or not, but with the retainer flap open, it was easier to see that. My 2 cents. Good luck everyone!

    Sulmo Kim - Responder

    I initially tried inserting the cable with the retaining flap closed (as described), however after completing reassembly the MacBook could be heard to start but without any display action (no backlight, no graphics - also tried resetting the SMC). Being suspicious of this step based on the comments above, I tried re-inserting the cable with the retaining flap open before subsequently closing the flap. It may have just been my perception but insertion with the retaining flap open certainly appeared to result in a more robust mating of cable and connector. After reassembly and reset of the SMC I at least saw backlight action although no graphics still. A subsequent boot into to diagnostics mode resulted in the graphics coming to life.

    Maybe my re-insertion while the retaining flap was closed was not quite correct (although I was certainly trying to be careful), but my experience was that success was achieved making the cable insertion while the retaining flap was open.

    Paul Richards - Responder

    It is kind of nice that I don't have to worry about that. The screen cable is literally plug & play. Super easy.

    lyonmissions - Responder

  20. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 23, imagem 1 %32
    • Separate the upper case assembly from the lower case assembly.

  21. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement, Audio Jack Board: passo 24, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement, Audio Jack Board: passo 24, imagem 2 %32
    • Use a spudger to flip open the ZIF connector retaining flap for the dual microphone assembly ribbon cable.

  22. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 25, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 25, imagem 2 %32
    • Disconnect the microphone assembly ribbon cable by pulling it straight out of its connector.

    Does anyone know were I can buy the “microphone assembly ribbon cable“? It is the most delicate cable and cant seem to find spare part.

    Vernon Roth - Responder

  23. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 26, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the two 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws securing the audio jack board to the case.

  24. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 27, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the audio jack board.

    After jack replacement my internal speakers stop working. Any solution?

    piotr2503 - Responder

    There must be a bad contact in the jack socket or the card has been damaged, the sound therefore remains blocked on it

    Ludovic - Responder

  25. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement, Dual Microphone Assembly: passo 28, imagem 1 %32
    • Prepare an iOpener and apply heat to the upper case directly behind the microphone assembly.

    If you are replacing the case upper case check to see if your replacement case has a microphone assembly included. If it does you can skip 28-30

    Marco Romani - Responder

  26. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 29, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 29, imagem 2 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 29, imagem 3 %32
    • Use a fine-tip probe or pick to gently peel the dual microphone assembly away from the case.

    very difficult to remove, even with heat. Can be purchased on eBay for ~ $10

    zimmerninja - Responder

    The upper case sold by iFixit comes with the dual mic

    Tolu Fapohunda - Responder

    impossible to remove without damaging the mic. I strongly suggest to remove the screw hodling the keyboard before removing and installing the new mic

    Erick Luna - Responder

  27. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 30, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the dual microphone assembly.

    During reassembly, do you need to apply adhesive to the microphone assembly to glue it back to the case? What adhesive is the best to use?

    Andrei - Responder

    Usually with a part like this, the replacement comes with adhesive pre-applied—just peel off the liner and stick it in place. If you’re re-using the old microphone, you might be able to get away with heating it up a little using a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the old adhesive, and then stick it down. Failing that, I’d add a little B7000 adhesive.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    So this was very hard to take off. I probably didn’t allow enough time for the adhesive to heat up and loosen. But I noticed that my new upper case assembly already came with a new dual microphone assembly attached. I’m assuming that all new upper assemplies will come with a microphone preinstalled. If that’s the case this part is not necessary and can be skipped in my opinion.

    Eduardo Chavez - Responder

    it is hard to install the new one, but not impossible. I strongly recommend to peel the adhesive and try to insert the dual mic assebly with actual mic holes facing up. Once inside push with some tweezers to final position. Make sure you remove the blck screw holding the keyboard, it will make iy a bit easier

    Erick Luna - Responder

  28. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement, USB-C Port: passo 31, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove two 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the USB-C port.

    I didn’t notice this when removing the USB-C port, but it seems to be a little loose under the screws. I have another MacBook of the same vintage and found that its USB-C port also has a little movement when a cable is plugged in. Not much movement, just a little.

    woikelaw - Responder

    I missed this comment when I did this job but observed the same

    No apparent effect on function

    abscate - Responder

    It would have been a help to have pointed out that actually folding the end of this ribbon cable at the USB C end, as shown in your pictures, before attaching it will help to prevent the cable breaking at one of its inner corners while being installed.

    bfg737 - Responder

    As with my comment above, for me, these were #000 not #00. Other than that, if you work slowly and deliberately, you will find the right angle. It does go in without any force, but you have to find the right way.

    Paul Nishikawa - Responder

  29. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 32, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 32, imagem 2 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 32, imagem 3 %32
    • Use tweezers to lift the USB-C port just over the hinge screws.

    • Slide the port out and up over the display hinge to remove it.

    • There's very little clearance when removing and installing the USB-C port. If there's not enough room, don't force it. Try removing the display hinge screws and moving the hinges for additional clearance, if necessary.

    Successful completion of USBC in 20 minutes with following notes

    1 the replacement part has to have the ribbon folded to match the original or will it foul the display case large screw. You know this when you can’t put the two big Pentalobe screws in on the final case install

    2 my USBC part looks identical to the original, but the port has some motion even with the screws tight. I’m wondering about this a bit. I’m confident I did not cross thread the screws.

    i measure the thickness of the original USB C port board at the two Phillips screws as 325 microns +_25 umicrons

    abscate - Responder

    I found the same problem with the new part moving a lot after installation even with the screws tight, and realised the problem is the new part does not come with the black rubber seal that goes around the connector (you can see it in pic 3 step 25). I moved that across from the old part to the new one and now it seems very tight.

    Gabriele Nicotra - Responder

    Step 25 only has one pic

    John M -

    He means 3rd pic of step 26.

    dmjenks -

    If you are removing the screen (to replace the top case, for example), do this step afterwards. It is much easier this way.

    maccentric - Responder

    No luck, the port seems to be wedged in behind the computer’s hinge. But you need to remove USBC port BEFORE you remove the display. Soooooooo any other tips?

    The screws on the hinge aren’t in the way, it’s hitting right up near the edge of the computer itself.

    John M - Responder

    remove the two screws under the rubber piece to disconnect the display. I didn’t have to completely remove it, just enough to slide the pieces in and out

    Seth Ferguson -

    totally worked! saved me about $550 doing it myself so you have my eternal gratitude

    Seth Ferguson - Responder

    I found it impossible to remove the USB type C port during this step and instead continued with the next 2 steps and after separating the display found that the USB type C port was effortlessly removed……hope that helps someone

    Steve Harris - Responder

    I think it’s a pretty $@$*!& tutorial. Sorry to be blunt.

    It is essentially missing about 3 final steps that show the replacement piece so one can appreciate it.

    I read the tutorial, thought it’s all clear and then bought the piece except it was an incomplete piece. Since the tutorial is missing the last three steps, I could not judge the piece and essentially got lured buying an incomplete piece.

    Mark Schira - Responder

    I don’t understand why here in this picture it looks like the black ribbon is turning away from the port but for the piece I bought, die black ribbon goes in the same direction as the port: Retina MacBook 2016 Teardown .

    Miriam Guth - Responder

  30. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: passo 33, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: passo 33, imagem 2 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: passo 33, imagem 3 %32
    • Remove the two 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws securing the display cable assembly.

    • Take care not to lose the small retaining bracket located under the right screw. If it comes loose, note the orientation shown here for reassembly. The small tab on the outer left edge should be hooked under the perforated metal shield.

  31. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 34, imagem 1 %32
    • Fully open the display.

    • Set the MacBook down on its right edge with the display facing away from you, as shown.

    I found putting the laptop keyboard down on the edge of a table (With screen open, and going down the side of the table) To be easier. It allowed me to put in the torque needed in unscrewing the screen.

    Michael Daken - Responder

  32. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 35, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 35, imagem 2 %32
    • Remove the four 4.8 mm T8 Torx screws securing the display hinges.

    • There may be a rubber cover on the hinge screws. Remove this before removing the screws and replace it during reassembly.

    The screws were tight and my cheapo torx driver from Amazon was not up to the task. Bought a good one and the screws came out easily.

    bredelet - Responder

  33. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 36, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 36, imagem 2 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 36, imagem 3 %32
    • Holding the display assembly with one hand and the upper case with the other, push them together slightly to move the hinges out of their recesses in the the upper case.

    • There are only a few millimeters of play between the hinges and the case, so you won't need to push far.

    • Push the upper case forward while pulling back gently on the display.

    • Once the two display hinges have cleared the upper case, remove the display and set it aside.

    I had to give the screen just a little force here, for it to pop out. Its an incredibly tight fit.

    Michael Daken - Responder

  34. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement, Trackpad Assembly: passo 37, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement, Trackpad Assembly: passo 37, imagem 2 %32
    • Use a pair of tweezers to remove the tape covering the keyboard ribbon cable connector on the trackpad.

  35. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 38, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 38, imagem 2 %32
    • Using a spudger, flip open the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF connector.

  36. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 39, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 39, imagem 2 %32
    • Gently pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its slot in the frame.

    Pictures seem missing? Luckily this step is pretty straightforward.

    maccentric - Responder

  37. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 40, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the five 2.5 mm T3 Torx screws securing the trackpad to the case.

    • On some driver sets, a T4 driver may fit better.

    Definitely try the T4 first. And press down hard, these things strip easily.

    maccentric - Responder

    Not a T3 and not a T4, these will strip using whichever one used (my case), maybe my screws were the bad

    Juan sanchez - Responder

  38. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 41, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the trackpad assembly.

    • Metal brackets on each side of the trackpad may fall away during removal. Be sure to position them as shown in the photo during reassembly.

    There were no metal brackets on mine. I don't know if this MacBook had ever been serviced before, though. Hopefully it won't be an issue.

    parts - Responder

  39. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 42, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 42, imagem 2 %32
    • Use a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF connector.

  40. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 43, imagem 1 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 43, imagem 2 %32 Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 43, imagem 3 %32
    • Gently peel the keyboard ribbon cable up from the case, and remove the cable.

  41. Retina MacBook 2016 Upper Case Assembly Replacement: passo 44, imagem 1 %32
    • The upper case remains.

    Is there a possibility to remove the keyboard from the uppercase after that step?

    GEORGES GLYKOFRYDIS - Responder

    It’s possible, but pretty hard to do. There’s no guide for this specific MacBook, but here’s a guide for removing the keyboard in a 2013 13” Macbook Pro, and a teardown of a 2018 MacBook keyboard. I definitely wouldn’t rely on the guide or teardown to remove this keyboard, but the processes should at least be similar enough to give you an idea of what’s entailed. For further information you might check our answers forum—chances are there’s someone there that knows more about this repair. Good luck!

    Adam O'Camb -

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

5 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Adam O'Camb

Membro desde: 11/04/2015

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3 Comments

Just a warning, but when any repairs are being done on this particular model, its important to discharge the battery before disconnecting ANY cables or connections internally. Not doing so can damage logic board components or more. I was looking into the take aprt for the top case, and there was no mention about discharging the battery before cables were being disconnected so I wanted to put this on your radar. Thank you

Manny - Responder

Hi, I would just like to make a comment about how awful the keyboard is on the 2016 “touch bar” MacBook Pro.

I repeat: It’s awful.

Josh A - Responder

n step # 35 I had to use a larger handled driver to break the screws loose.

mayer - Responder

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