Introdução
Si la pantalla de tu iPhone XR está quebrada, no responde al tacto o no muestra una imagen cuando tu teléfono está encendido, usa esta guía para restaurar tu iPhone a un estado de funcionamiento con una nueva pantalla, o conocido también como ensamblaje de pantalla.
Esta guía fue hecha para usarse con pantallas de reemplazo completas. La pantalla de reemplazo debería venir pre-montada en un marco y tener un protector LCD de metal delgado pre-instalado en la parte trasera. Si ese escudo LCD no esta presente, sigue esta guía más detallada para reemplazar la pantalla manteniendo el escudo LCD anterior.
El ensamblaje combinado de altavoz auricular y sensor colocado en la parte posterior de la pantalla está emparejado con tu iPhone individual de fábrica''', por lo que debes transferirlo de tu pantalla antigua a la nueva durante cualquier reemplazo de pantalla. Contiene el iluminador de inundación, que forma parte de la característica de seguridad biométrica Face ID. Si se daña o se reemplaza, el Face ID dejará de funcionar, así que ten mucho cuidado de no dañar ninguno de estos componentes durante este procedimiento. Si está dañado, solo Apple puede restaurar la función de Face ID.
Nota: La funcionalidad del True Tone está desactivada luego de un reemplazo de pantalla, aún cuando utilizas una pantalla Apple original.
O que você precisa
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Apaga tu iPhone antes de comenzar a desmontar.
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Remueve los dos tornillos pentalobe de 6.7 mm en el borde inferior del iPhone.
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Si tu iPhone tiene la pantalla rota, mantén la rotura contenida y evita lastimarte durante la reparación colocando una cinta sobre el vidrio.
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Coloca tiras superpuestas de cinta de embalaje sobre la pantalla del iPhone hasta cubrir toda la cara.
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Si los vidrios rotos dificultan que una ventosa se pegue en los siguientes pasos, intenta doblar un trozo de cinta resistente (como una cinta adhesiva) en un asa y levanta la pantalla con eso.
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Coloca tiras superpuestas de cinta de embalaje transparente sobre la pantalla del iPhone hasta cubrir toda la cara.
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Si no puedes hacer que la ventosa se adhiera en los próximos pasos, dobla un trozo de cinta resistente (como cinta adhesiva) en un asa y levanta la pantalla con eso.
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Tira de la manija azul hacia atrás para desbloquear los brazos del Anti-Clamp.
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Desliza los brazos sobre el borde izquierdo o derecho de tu iPhone.
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Coloca las ventosas cerca del borde inferior de la pantalla, una en el frente y otra en la parte posterior.
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Aprieta las copas para aplicar succión en el área deseada.
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Tira de la manija azul hacia delante para bloquear los brazos.
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Gira el mango en el sentido de las agujas del reloj 360 grados o hasta que las copas comiencen a estirarse.
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Asegúrate de que las ventosas permanezcan alineadas entre sí. Si comienzan a salirse de la alineación, afloja ligeramente las ventosas y vuelve a alinear los brazos.
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Calienta un iOpener y pásalo por los brazos del Anti-Clamp.
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Dobla el iOpener de forma que quede sobre el borde inferior del iPhone.
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Espera un minuto para que el adhesivo se despegue y se abra el hueco.
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Inserta una púa de apertura en el hueco que hay debajo de la pantalla y el bisel de plástico, no en la propia pantalla.
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Omite los siguientes tres pasos.
Please UPDATE THIS STEP to say 'insert the opening pick underneath the PLASTIC FRAME OF THE SCREEN' and not the screen. Way too many people are taking this as the way to do it then posting their screen looks different when it's open when they've actually removed the screen leaving the frame in place. It's not rocket science.
Thanks for the suggestion! We updated this step to clarify that.
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Usa un secador de pelo o pistola de calor, o prepara un iOpener y aplícalo en el borde inferior del iPhone durante un minuto para ablandar el adhesivo.
An alternative to the Iopener or heat gun is to heat water to EXACTLY 80 degrees F (cooking thermometer is great for this) and pour into a reinforced ziplock type bag. Leave the bag on the screen, but be sure that none of the hot water rests on the zipper portion, as the water is hot enough to soften that seal and leak out on to your device! This meat had is my personal favorite as the heat is distributed very equally and precisely as compared to a heat gun, but is more accessible than the Iopener.
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Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa con una presión firme y constante para crear un ligero espacio entre el panel frontal y la caja posterior.
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Inserta una púa de apertura en el espacio debajo de la pantalla y el bisel de plástico, no en la pantalla en sí.
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Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina inferior izquierda y sube el borde izquierdo del iPhone, cortando a través del adhesivo que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar.
I think it's important to note that depending on how a screen was damaged, make sure to insert the pic under the black bezel directly under the actual screen. This bezel is a frame around the digitizer. I unknowingly inserted the pic between the bezel and the screen, and separated them both. I did this all the way around the phone. So I basically had to struggle to keep together two different sections of the display assembly because of this mishap, until I removed all the ribbon connectors. It made things much more difficult.
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Vuelve a insertar su púa en el borde inferior del iPhone y deslízala hacia arriba en el lado derecho para continuar separando el adhesivo.
My replacement screen for the XR has a black rim but it looks pink. Is that normal?
Step 11 says not to insert your pick around the right side to avoid damaging cables, then Step 12 says to insert it on the right side. Help, I'm confused!
Hi there!
Thank you for the feedback! The wording in step 11 was definitely ambiguous, so we have changed it! You only need to avoid the marked spots rather than the right edge.
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Abre el iPhone moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como la contraportada de un libro.
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Apoya la pantalla contra algo para mantenerla apoyada mientras trabajas en el teléfono.
sure looks like the "hinge" is on the right hand side to me.. not left...!
If you leave the suction cup attached to the screen during the “hinging” process, it makes for a very handy holder for the screen until it’s completely detached.
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Remueve tres tornillos de 1.2 mm Y000 que sujetan la batería del soporte del conector.
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Remueve el soporte.
Definitely make sure all three lobes of your tool are aligned before use (it’s a little harder to tell with this style of bit) and apply even and adequate pressure to ensure it grabs as you spin the driver to prevent disfiguring the lobes/slot of the screw head.
Unfortunately my Y000 tool was perhaps not the best fit (tolerance a bit off) in these screws and I ended up stripping out the heads of all three of these. I started to panic but after I sanded the tip of my Y000 bit down a little with super fine grit (1000CW-C) sand paper to flatten the domed tip (visible with macro lens) and give it a bit more bite I was able to remove and reinstall without issue—in fact I had to remove and install them twice since I forgot my adhesive tape during reassembly, so the screws survived and the sanded bit worked.
+1 to above comment. I bought a cheap kit from Amazon and the Y000 screw driver is not good for this job. I’m concerned that I may have disfigured the heads and i type this comment in the midst of my fix :D Be gentle and assess if you can remove at least one screw with your driver before rummaging through all three and other similar screws holding display connector as well.
Update to above comment. I got hold of a Y0.8 screw driver bit (lucky to find an ORIA screw driver kit in my office) and it works like wonders :) Now back to work…
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Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el conector de batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
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Dobla el conector ligeramente hacia afuera de la placa lógica para evitar que haga contacto accidentalmente con el zócalo y proporciona energía al teléfono durante su reparación.
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Remueve los dos tornillos Y00 de 1.2 mm que sujetan el soporte de conector de pantalla.
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Remueve el soporte.
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Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar y desconectar le cable del digitalizador.
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Usa la punta de un spudger para desconectar el conector de cable de pantalla.
The new display cable isn’t snapping in but I was just able to snap in the old one. Did I break the new one somehow?
Same it is really frustrating, just keeps slipping up and its bound to get damaged
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Remueve los cinco tornillos que sujetan el soporte del conector de la placa lógica a la caja trasera:
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Un tornillo Phillips #000 de 1.3 mm
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Un tornillo Phillips #000 de 1.5 mm
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Tres tornillos Y000 de 1.2 mm
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Quita el soporte.
I’m not sure it makes much if any difference, but we went ahead and swapped the order for you guys. Thanks for your comments!
I just repaired another XR, and you are right! It doesn’t make any differnerce in the order these screws come out. I still damaged this fragile piece. As I work on more of these, I’ll figure out a way to remove this screw without damaging the clip. For now everyone, just use extra caution when removing the 1.3mm phillips screw! Thanks Jeff
I’ve now done at least 6 of these so far and I have fairly consistent good results by taking the 2 Philips head screws out first, then doing the Y screws.
Stow -
Is this piece important for the repair if broken? I have broken it on a home repair. What is it used for? Is it a grounding connection or is it completely unimportant. More information needed please
I’m wondering that too. Is this piece important?
I can confirm that taking out the 1.3 mm screw first then the 1.5 mm screw works the best. If done correctly, you should be able to to remove the rest of the screws and pull the panel off with the clip still attached to the panel. For reassembly, start with the 1.5 mm screw then the 1.3 mm screw.
I don’t remove the small screw at all. I just slide out the metal cover plate and slide back in to reassemble.
this is what i have done as well. Care is still needed to avoid damaging this part. However, it is seemingly far less prone to damage or loss and thus less risky for this repair process.
I too broke this shield. In looking over this problem I believe it’s best to loosen, but not remove, either screw first then the other. To be clear, loosen the red or yellow screw but only just to break it free, then the second screw. Then remove both and the others and the shield should remain in one piece. I put it back with the broken part (on the red screw) and made sure the two are in contact so there’s conductivity as these shields serve a purpose other than just holding in connectors. My phone works fine with this fix.
Is this small bracket important if broken??
Mine is broken
Mine is broken and my apple pay doesn’t work. Something to do with NFC antenna this little clip??
I'm guessing so. I replaced a screen on a phone I bought from a friend. I noticed this bracket was broken when I disassembled the phone but didn't think much of it. When I reassembled it my NFC also does not work. Bummer. A lot of people in these comments have asked if it is crucial that this bracket be connected. Can someone from iFixit or other please reply to those comments?
Kyaw-Zin is right because the shield contains of two tin parts. But there is another option:
1. Unscrew the yellow and orange screws first.
2. Lift the shield gently that it can turn about 20° anticlockwise.
3. Open the red screw and let the shield turn with it the first degrees.
The first time I did this repair, I didn’t see the comments ahead of time and broke the bracket, even removing the 1.3mm screws first. The second time I did the repair, I was prepared and being extra careful, but the simple act of turning the 1.3mm screw head was enough to break it. If I ever have to do this repair again, I’ll just leave the screw in and try to slide the plate out with the screw (and bracket, hopefully) still in tact, as per Kyaw-Zin Win.
None of the screw driver bits I got fits the 1.3mm and 1.5mm screws. How do I remove them?
Same issue as above. The bits provided in the kit do not work with the 1.3mm and 1.5mm screws
Further to above comment about bit not working. Had to go and purchase another PH000 from Home Depot and that worked
I’ve broken that little bracket attached to the red screw. Is it important and can I get a replacement????? Thanks all
Broken the clip. Is this important??
Don't remove the 1.3 Phillips screw! Twisting this screw will break the smaller bracket that is clipped to the larger. Remove all the other screws. Block the smaller bracket from moving as you gently slide the larger bracket horizontally toward the battery until free. The smaller bracket can stay in place while the screen is replaced. When reassembling, support the small bracket by backing with a spudger or similar tool.
I just broke the smaller bracket also :( I didn´t notice these comments until now :(
It looks like part of the antenna for NFC, as all except NFC works on my iPhone now.
It should be repairable using some wire wrap wire, either twisted around the two screws that connected that part of the bracket (or soldered in place). I will try and report back if it works.
Success!! I managed to re-construct the small arm of the bracket by screwing the 1.3mm screw back in with some 0.3mm enamel wire soldered into what was left of the small bracket arm on the screw, then the other end of the enamel wire I wrapped under the 1.5 wire screw's head (enamel exposed to bare metal), then screwed both screws down. also I lifted up the small metal arm with a screw driver (to make sure it reconnects with the display grounding square) ..and NFC worked again (slightly different antenna pattern mind (need to place cards slightly higher up the rear of the phone). Anyway works again :)
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Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el conector de ensamblaje del sensor frontal de su zócalo.
During testing, make sure your proximity sensor is not on upside down, as it’s easy to connect upside down. Your phone will boot loop if it’s on incorrectly.
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Remueve el ensamblaje de pantalla.
unclear if this is where screen removal ends
I had the same question, but the answer is yes. Steps 21-30 are removing parts from the original screen that need to be reattached onto the new screen. You are no longer working inside the frame, but on the back of the screen itself.
I apologize for missing these comments initially, but yes that’s correct, the screen is removed now and the rest of the guide goes on to other parts, either in the phone or on the back of the screen. Good luck with the repair!
The alternate method of removing the battery should be highlighted as a standard option. There is so much more work and potential to damage the parts than if you left them in place and carefully with plenty of heat remove the battery. I so wish I had seen this before!
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Remueve los cuatro tornillos que sujetan el ensamblaje de altavoz/auricular a la parte trasera de la pantalla.
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Dos tornillos Phillips de 1.6 mm
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Un tornillo Phillips de 2.3 mm
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Un tornillo Y000 de 1.2 mm
Do you really need to do step 21-30, because it says to replace, do it in reverse. Which means you are taking the components off and putting them back on without touching the screen? sorry if this is a dumb question, i’ve never done this before.
Good question! It depends on which guide you are completing. If you are replacing the screen, you do need to complete steps 21-30, in order to remove the front assembly and transfer it to your replacement screen. The front assembly contains the Face ID hardware, which is biometrically linked to the logic board.
Now, if you are completing other guides, you may not need to remove the front assembly. Guides should have the steps slotted in only if they are pertinent to the procedure.
I had the same question, but the answer is yes. Steps 21-30 are removing parts from the original screen that need to be reattached onto the new screen. You are no longer working inside the frame, but on the back of the screen itself.
Im reassembling and notice there are no threaded screw holes to secure the speaker/sensor assembly on the new display. no way to secure it at all. Do i not need to secure it?
Hi Ashley,
There should definitely be screw holes to secure the assembly to the new display. If you purchased the part from iFixit, please contact our customer support, and we will sort things out for you!
Please contact our customer support and we will get the issue resolved!
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Con pinzas, mueve suavemente el ensamblaje del altavoz hacia arriba y hacia afuera del borde superior de la pantalla.
I don’t understand. It clearly appears that one should stop disassembling after this step. Peeling off the tape here should provide access to the solder connections. Why remove a bunch of other adhered parts? ESD concerns?
Of course, taking care not to transmit heat to the screen assembly below would be prudent. But it’s unlikely much if any heat would conduct even without using any sort of insulating spacer, assuming one’s soldering technique is acceptable. With a thermal mass that small, overheating the connection is the big concern. Especially since it is lead-free solder.
(It has a high melting point. If you didn’t already know that, this is definitely not the best project to develop your soldering skills! You can still do it, but should def practice on similar connections until you feel proficient. Lifting a pad or overheating a nearby component are both dangers. Yet, the cost of the part is low enough you could buy two (just in case) and still come out ahead of Apple’s fee. Use flux or you’ll struggle!)
Hey Ryan,
You are right in that after this step, you could de-solder and replace the earpiece individually, if you choose to do some careful de-soldering and soldering. Alas, not everyone has the background and skill to do so! By instructing users to replace the complete assembly, we bypass the need to solder, and allow a wider audience to successfully complete the repair.
When reassembling or placing the whole sensor module on a replacement screen, make sure to gently rock the speaker back into place. There is a rubber gasket lip around the speaker that must be seated all of the way against the screen and speaker grill to function properly. You should feel a gentle click when is goes in. If is not seated correctly it still easily can be screwed in making it difficult to tell if the speaker is in correctly.
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Usa un secador de pelo o una pistola de calor o prepara un iOpener y aplícalo en la parte frontal superior de la pantalla durante 1-2 minutos, para suavizar el adhesivo que sujeta los sensores.
Review steps 24-29 prior to doing this. Step 27 shows removing ambient sensor. It is attached….barely…to the rest of this assembly. I thought I was being overly cautions, and it still broke. Don’t be afraid to use heat. Do not force. Any resistance, do not force it.. Heat it up and then try. Other than that, sound and camera works fine, and it appears that FaceID works. Not my phone, so I can’t test that part without unlocking customer’s phone. No error messages appeared, so Im assuming all is good. With the touch home button on older models, if touch wouldn’t work, you’d receive a message as soon as you booted the phone up. OK.. That’s enough. Just be careful over the next 5 steps..
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Desliza con cuidado el borde de tu púa de apertura debajo del cable flexible debajo del micrófono.
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Gíralo suavemente para separar el micrófono, teniendo cuidado de no forzar o dañar el cable flexible.
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Si es necesario, usa la punta del spudger para terminar de separar el micrófono de su muesca en el panel frontal. Si el micrófono sigue siendo difícil de separar, aplica más calor.
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Trabajando de izquierda a derecha, desliza una púa de apertura debajo del cable flexible y debajo del sensor de proximidad + módulo iluminador de inundación
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Suavemente mueve y levanta para separar el módulo de la muesca en el panel frontal.
what happens if the metal plate from the sensor separates from the flood illuminator module?
At this point I thought looking at the image that I was lifting the speaker away and tore off the thin cable completely unaware. Please read and view the next two instruction stages before doing this one and then come back and ensure you keep the speaker very close to the screen as you do it.
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Usa pinzas para deslizar el reten metalico pequeño, y sacarlo del sensor de luz ambiental.
I tore the ribbon cable that connects to the light sensor, what do I do? will the phone work even if the sensor doesn’t?
I gave up trying to get the clip back on. Appears to function properly without it.
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Usa pinzas para mover el sensor de luz ambiental y levántalo de su muesca en la pantalla.
On picture two, the thin transparent thread between the sensor and the display is not the “very thin flex cable” they are talking about but just some glue remains. In my case this thread of glue was sticking onto the sensor in the exact same way which made me suspicious at first.
The top part of the ambient light sensor easily breaks off from the bottom part. In that case do not despair. Pry the stuck part from the old display and transfer it to the new display. Put the assembly back together without glue. It should hold together just fine. Usually the auto brightness feature will still work.
I broke the flex cable from the light sensor that connects to the rest. Anything I can do?
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Si has extraído ixitosamente todo el sensor de luz ambiental, como se muestra en la primera foto, continúa con el paso siguiente.
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Si la tira difusora blanca se desprende y permanece incrustada en la pantalla, como se muestra en la segunda foto, deberá levantarla con cuidado a lo largo del borde superior con una cuchilla delgada o una palanca. Volver a aplicar calor primero puede facilitar un poco esta tarea.
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Remueve el altavoz auricular y ensamblaje de sensor frontal.
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Sensor de proximidad
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Iluminador infrarrojo
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El módulo debe colocarse de manera que estos componentes no queden obstruidos por ningún adhesivo.
To replace just the earspeaker, you will have to re-use the the flex assembly which is soldered to the earspeaker…….
the 2 solder connection are hidden under a tiny piece of thin black tape, on the underside of the speaker.
Before attaching the sensor module to your replacement screen, ensure there is nothing blocking the earpiece screen on the new screen part. Mine had a mfg defect or something where there was a black foam like film on the outside of the speaker grill that I couldn’t remove with tape or sticky putty. I had to blow through the back of the grill with a computer duster compressed air can. Otherwise the call volume via the earpiece is extremely low, even when turned to max volume.
Hey there, if I have an iPhone bit damage and I remove the top speaker and sensor and put it on my other iPhone XR. Will it work? It is original iPhone XR and please let me know
The Face ID hardware is paired to the logic board and will not work if you transfer the front sensor assembly. Everything else should work.
super gemacht , danke der olli
The iPhone XR Screen Replacement Kit comes with an adhesive replacement on a blue plastic sheet. I didn’t know what this was and thought it was just protection for the screen during shipping.
Don’t throw it out - At this step 29 remove the old adhesive using this guide -> Substituição de adesivo de tela para o iPhone
Don’t be dumb like me.
I would definitely add a step at the end –
30) Replace the adhesive seal -> iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement.You need to use an EEPROM programmer. This will read code from the old screen to the new screen (assuming the replacement screen is of decent quality and supports True Tone programming). Check out YouTube and you will find plenty of information on how to do this. It really should be mentioned in screen replacement guides/videos, that if you just replace the screen without this specialist equipment, the True Tone function is not available. This is the same for all iPhones that have True Tone.
Add a comment: remove blue protective covers from back of screen when installing
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Compara tus piezas de sustitución con la pieza original. Puede que necesites transferir algunos componentes más o eliminar adhesivos de la pieza de sustitución antes de instalarla.
Para volver a montar tu dispositivo, sigue estos pasos en orden inverso.
Lleva tus residuos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje certificado.
¿La reparación no salió como planeaste? Consulta nuestra comunidad de Respuestas para recibir ayuda con tu problema.
Compara tus piezas de sustitución con la pieza original. Puede que necesites transferir algunos componentes más o eliminar adhesivos de la pieza de sustitución antes de instalarla.
Para volver a montar tu dispositivo, sigue estos pasos en orden inverso.
Lleva tus residuos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje certificado.
¿La reparación no salió como planeaste? Consulta nuestra comunidad de Respuestas para recibir ayuda con tu problema.
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45 comentários
Where I can buy the screen?
Hi, you can buy the screen here in our store! Good luck with your repair!
What about the half dozen other steps of removing the back plate, transferring components and reassembling the device?
We put those steps into a separate guide, since not everyone needs them! If you need the more in-depth version, look here.
Has anyone Noticed the LCDs on the X series replacement screens crack very easily or is it more than likely I’m just receiving cheap parts?
Any idea if you will be selling the iPhone XR Display Assembly Adhesive, Item code: IF408-008? If not, any recommendation for where to get this? Thank you,
J
@jtullbane It’s available again—not sure why we had the product disabled. Thanks for asking!
Thanks for the write up. I just replaced my screen with your kit and I’m unable to use FaceID. I’ve reset it it but I am unable to set it up fresh as the system can’t detect my face during the setup wizard. What is interesting though is that Animoji are correctly projecting my face. Does anyone’s have any tips for further debugging before I take it apart again
In my experience this is usually a hardware rather than a software issue. Double-check the tips in the final step. Make sure there’s no dust or fingerprints on the Face ID lenses and projector. Make sure nothing was damaged during the repair, particularly those thin flex cables. Reseat the connectors, reassemble, and test again. If all else fails, try reinstalling the old screen and see if you get Face ID back—in theory, a defective coating on the new screen could interfere with the Face ID hardware. Good luck!
When you buy the screen, does the necessary screwdrivers come with or do you have to purchase them separately?
Hi Cody,
If you purchase from iFixit, you have the option of buying either the replacement part by itself, or in a kit with all the necessary tools and adhesives. As of now, we don’t have a kit built for the screen, so you would need to supply your own tools.
what is the small bracket for in step 18?
Awesome repair guide. I just finished with my screen replacement and am amazed at how relatively simple it was. I only have one critique and that is to add a bit driver to the tools required. I didn’t realize that the ph000 and the y000 were thinner than regular bits so it took a little bit more time for me. All that said I am happy with my repair and thank you guys for the fight for the right to repair. You all are awesome
The adhesive for the XR is only available from the US store but I need to get it in the EU one. Is there a link for it in the EU store not the US one?
Does the part you sell have the lcd shield included?
also what is the thermal paste on this model….other sites say “thermal paste pre installed” what does that mean?
Hi! The part we sell is only the LCD panel and digitizer only. It does not have the shield—you will have to transfer the part over. I’m not sure about thermal paste other sites are speaking off…it may be a poor translation to mean screen adhesives?
I have an two iphone xr red, one donor and one to repair, the screen works on the donor vice versa but doesnt work on the other one(touch screen work on bottom half only…) you guys know why?
I am not a seasoned technician by ay stretch of the imagination, though I have tinkered with many things over the years. I followed the guide step by step, and took my sweet time. So far, the phone and all of it’s peripherals work like and look new, face recognition included. I highly recommend the iFixit Mako Driver kit for this project, but I suppose that as long as your tools are of a high quality, you won’t have many if any issues. I used a cheap low wattage heat gun, but after completing this project, I have drawn the conclusion that I really wish that I had the iOpener and am going it order soon. I also could have used a few high quality spudgers and prying/seperator tools. This was a great step by step guide, and I believe that a budding professional could likely take any advice that they can find on iFixit. Excellent work.
I recommend buying the magnetic project pad or be well prepared to organize the screws and parts. The screws are tiny, so you might consider a head-mounted magnifier if your vision isn’t perfect. Excited to have this repair under my belt and not have to run to the genius bar for cracked screens any longer.
When you buy a new screen are you buying a new LCD thingy ma bob, or do you have to buy that separately? If it’s all together I should be good to just follow these steps right?
Hi Leah!
The LCD is just another term for the screen, so yes, all screen kits should come with it. However, iPhone screen kits get a little confusing. Some kits come with more components pre-installed than others. Our kit currently requires you to transfer the LCD shield from your existing iPhone, so it will require a few additional steps. Here is the proper guide for the part we sell.
Im not an idiot and have done repairs to MacBooks and even replaced batteries on two iPads. I preface what I am about to say with that so if it’s simply user error, I no longer should be allowed to use an iPhone much less repair one.
I am on step 13 and I cannot for the life of me get the screws out for the battery piece. I have no less than 4 iPhone repair kits so that’s a minimum of 4 screwdrivers that should fit. Nope. They aren’t stripped (yet). I don’t know what help you can provide other than confirm that it’s possible that I was multiple kits for iPhone repair that simply don’t have the correct screwdriver gauge needed for an iPhone XR?
Do you need to have the new screen reprogrammed from the old screen to keep true tone?
Great job. I would like to ask what speaker is it when you voice text? Thank you
Thanks guys!! Helped me a lot!
A nice thing would have been to include removing the plastic “guides” for the earpiece, speaker and cameras. I couldn’t line mine up so I just went without it. Still works perfectly fine but for someone to whom this may be important, would have been a nice inclusion.
All in all, thanks for your help!!
Will Face ID work? Or will it be bricked completely with a replacement screen. Will it work if I clone the data using the chip cloner?
Hi Ethan,
If you successfully transferred over the front-facing sensor assembly to the new screen, Face ID will work!
I have to say that I went into this one feeling pretty pessimistic, but figured I could live with a busted phone and an additional $120 for a display as my worst case scenario. So, when I turned it on and everything worked as new? Well howdy doo! These instructions were excellent. THANK YOU!
What kind of screwdriver I need for the 2 screws in the front
Je viens de terminer avec succès le remplacement de l'écran sur iPhone XR selon ce tutoriel très bien fait.
2h30.
La principale difficulté concerne les manipulations de ces microscopiques vis.
Si elles tombent, considérez qu'elles sont perdues. Donc préparez l'environnement de travail en conséquence. ( une serviette de bain sur votre surface de travail afin d'éviter le rebondissement de la vis si elle vous échappe)
merci mille fois a Ifixit et au concepteur de ce auto.
Super gute Anleitung. Hat alles problemlos funktioniert. Vielen Dank dafür!!!
Excellent instructions. Worth going at it very slowly, gently applying sufficient heat so things come apart. Took five minutes to get the screen out. The Ifixit kits and sucker puller work well + the magnetic work tray to keep everything contained. Most of all, the right screwdriver tips. I thought I had everything - but not a P000 Y shape! Many of the screws are unbelievable small, and make your fingers and your other tools look like sausages. One thing extra: my new screen came with a protective blue plastic layer on the back. When reassembling, steps 31-30, this needs to come off, otherwise it leave a tag sticking out. For removing all traces of the old glue seal and bedding it a new one, it's worth reading the separate instructions. Quite tricky and you get one shot. When it comes to the final mating of the parts, important to hook in the tangs at the top of the phone and keep some pressure on, to locate the bottom end correctly. Very happy when it all came back and functioning.
Hello, good repair guide. But I feel that it is missing couple more steps to explain how to fit the adhesive of the new screen before to reassemble it all.
I have bought the screen with adhesive in the EU store of iFixit.
One of my gaskets was as shown in your second photo, the other had been worked into the threads (as if smeared) probably from the factory and was completely unusable.
In place of replacements (unsure of where to purchase) I just used a clear silicone caulking on both screws upon reassembly to offer at least some water seal. I wish these gaskets were included with the gasket waterproofing sealant kit!
Erica - Responder
Is there any place to buy these screw gaskets? I haven’t seen it mentioned anywhere but one of mine was pretty much chewed up. Silicone should work but I’d prefer the oem solution.
Chilinh Nguyen - Responder
I found a place on Amazon that sells them. It's cheapest to get a full set of screws than to get just these. $5-$6 USD.
J Olin -
Can it be dead?
Lulu navarro - Responder
If I transfer the data from the old to the new battery with an icopy, don't I get an error message?
David Julian Krause - Responder
how am i supposed to know if the battery is below 25% if the screen won't turn on?
Beth Jackson - Responder