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Introdução

This bed side light is a bit tricky to open.

Purpose of this was to install an antenna jack (BNC) to attach a telescopic antenna or roof aerial.

Peças

Nenhum componente especificado.

  1. There is a screw under the shiny UL sticker. Remove sticker and screw to remove this bottom panel. There are two tabs holding the panel into clock/light, so you might have to wiggle panel forward and out to remove it. Next we need to gain access to more screws.
    • There is a screw under the shiny UL sticker. Remove sticker and screw to remove this bottom panel. There are two tabs holding the panel into clock/light, so you might have to wiggle panel forward and out to remove it.

    • Next we need to gain access to more screws.

    There is one screw under this tab that's hold the front ring attached in fact. I guess you should have removed it too before prying this ring open

    Luuk Akkerman - Responder

  2. Flipping the light upside down will present a small section of the bezel that can be pried upward. It is a small plastic strip with hooks that have to be disengaged to be removed. (tricky) Flipping the light upside down will present a small section of the bezel that can be pried upward. It is a small plastic strip with hooks that have to be disengaged to be removed. (tricky)
    • Flipping the light upside down will present a small section of the bezel that can be pried upward. It is a small plastic strip with hooks that have to be disengaged to be removed. (tricky)

    Getting this section off/out without damaging it is nearly impossible. It’s hooked under the rear rim and it is held down by three clips. I ended up cutting the little bows that connect it to the back and then used pliers on one side to, well, basically break it out…

    Adjel van der Meer - Responder

    This stage was tricky but by poking a small flat-head screwdriver in alongside the tabs shown in the photo and twisting, I was able to remove it in one piece. Careful studying of of the image above shows where you need to go. Thanks for this excellent guide, I would never have figured this out without it.

    Nick Page - Responder

    Use a plastic tool or a something like a credit card to get that part out: it won’t break it and it is actually quite easy to remove (same tool used for smartphone)

    laurent reichsrath - Responder

    Wow, this would have been impossible to do without seeing the pic of the part! I managed to get it free using a tiny flat-head screwdriver to the clip (all three, one by one) and a larger one pushing up on the rim simultaneously.

    Tamar Opher - Responder

  3. We can finally unscrew two more Philips head screws to remove the button ring. We can finally unscrew two more Philips head screws to remove the button ring. We can finally unscrew two more Philips head screws to remove the button ring.
    • We can finally unscrew two more Philips head screws to remove the button ring.

    Lift one end of the ring, tilting it toward the back of the alarm clock. That will get the bows out from under the rear rim so you can start removing it..

    Adjel van der Meer - Responder

  4. Now the screws holding the front screen shield need to be removed and the shield can be pulled away to the front.
    • Now the screws holding the front screen shield need to be removed and the shield can be pulled away to the front.

    • Screw organization note for later: these screws have pointed ends

    • CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE INTERNAL SCREEN

    • Unscrew the four screws holding the inner screen assembly in place.

  5. The inner screen assembly can be pulled out slightly to reveal tabs on each side that hold the assembly in. Pry the back tabs inwards to release.
    • The inner screen assembly can be pulled out slightly to reveal tabs on each side that hold the assembly in.

    • Pry the back tabs inwards to release.

    Need to push quite hard on the tabs, don’t be surprised

    totosolat - Responder

    Thank you for your comment. I was about to give up, then I read your comment and tried again pushing a little harder and it worked just fine!

    Ifelix -

  6. The screen is connected to the plastic domed back with holes. There are two screws at the back of the base of this domed panel. Remove screws to remove screen. Set screen panel aside for safe keeping. More to see and modify...
    • The screen is connected to the plastic domed back with holes. There are two screws at the back of the base of this domed panel. Remove screws to remove screen.

    • Set screen panel aside for safe keeping.

    • More to see and modify...

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31 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Max

Membro desde: 13/11/2012

1.017 Reputação

Autoria de 1 guia

7 comentários

Awesome teardown except for one little thing…

The factory sticker shows this is a 3530 which may not be different from a 3520. However, the bottom plate screw MUST be removed in order to separate the two halves. It is a little confusing saying “The bottom panel does not help gaining access to more screws. See next step.” I took that as being unnecessary, so skip.

Takkens Shoes - Responder

I was able to fix my speaker inside it i got this alarm at a thrift store for cheap turns out the one wire just needed a better conenction to get working thank you for the steps to get to it

johnstone1889 - Responder

The first photo of step 5 is a little misleading, it looks like you are unscrewing something, it made me look for the screws

Other than that this was very helpful, thank you

paulamicel - Responder

Thanks so much for this guide! The speaker in my H3510 had suddenly stopped working. I managed to take it apart with this guide. It turned out one of the wires on the speaker had come loose. We soldered it back on and that fixed it!

heleen - Responder

Thx!. Now I am able to fix the power cord which was often unplugged. So i soldered the power cable fixed to the pcb.

pibi - Responder

3520 is very similar with the first steps identical. Many thanks for this guide!

I needed to get to the little switches because they are apparently the reason for a malfunction syndrome consisting of clicking noise and disabled menu sensors (according to a post which I have now lost the track of - my apologies). I gave the switches a gentle squirt of the well known panaceum known as WD40 which they sucked in greedily, following which I exercised them a little until the click sound became clear. Reassembling was a doddle. Now I am waiting for the WD40 to (mostly) evaporate while keeping my fingers crossed (this is a good procedure and a form of exercise). Then I shall switch the light on and we shall see how successful I was. Thanks again!

Wlodek Tych - Responder

Anyone able to fix this alarm/light not powering up at all? Wondering if there’s a fuse or just developed a loose connection for the ac cable.

ark frid - Responder

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