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Direito de executar reparos

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Introdução

Follow this guide to remove the left and right loudspeakers in a Nintendo Switch gaming console.

  1. Remove the four 6.3 mm Tri-point Y00 screws from the rear panel.
    • Remove the four 6.3 mm Tri-point Y00 screws from the rear panel.

    Please be careful with these screws. Your bit will go through them like butter and strip them if you're not careful. Speaking from experience.

    Benjamin Fryar - Responder

    So should I use glasses screws

    iceprincess4445 - Responder

    what happens if you do strip a screw?

    Stephanie C Cusimano - Responder

    I used a Y0 bit instead and it worked better for me not to strip the screws

    Alexander Watson - Responder

    Any suggestions of what you can do if you do strip the screw

    Emma Johnson - Responder

  2. Remove the single 6.1 mm Phillips #000 screw from underneath the kickstand.
    • Remove the single 6.1 mm Phillips #000 screw from underneath the kickstand.

    Mine was no longer than about 1mm.

    Nani - Responder

    Agree. This was a very short screw.

    Paul Swinglehurst - Responder

  3. Remove the two 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screws from the bottom of the device.
    • Remove the two 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screws from the bottom of the device.

    These screws wouldn’t go back in for me for some reason. I was definitely using the right screws as I set them aside step by step as usual. I’m not sure what the problem could have been, I just reassembled without the screws.

    Jason Rivera - Responder

  4. Remove the single 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screw from the top of the device.
    • Remove the single 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screw from the top of the device.

    This one didn’t want to come out on its own, and only came loose when I completed the rest of the steps to remove the rear panel, as I pulled the panel off.

    Matt Silver - Responder

  5. OPEN ALL THE TABS

    RAM Upgrade Kits for Mac

    Confira os kits

    Enough RAM
    For All The Tabs

    Confira os kits
  6. Remove the single 3.8 mm Phillips #000 screw from the right Joy-Con rail. Remove the single 3.8 mm Phillips #000 screw from the left Joy-Con rail.
    • Remove the single 3.8 mm Phillips #000 screw from the right Joy-Con rail.

    • Remove the single 3.8 mm Phillips #000 screw from the left Joy-Con rail.

    Please do not use a JIS #0 bit on this kit. I ended up stripping the screw on my switch and now I won't be able to get inside. You are much more likely to remove this screw with a JIS #000 bit, like literally every other screw on this machine. Why I thought I should throughly read and follow the instructions is beyond me, because I guess this ifixit guy decided it would be a great meme to get people to ruin their switches.

    Jacob Klinkenberg - Responder

    +1, JIS #0 seems way too large; I used a #00 and that worked. I agree that #000 might have worked even better, but I saw this comment too late.

    Nikolai Knopp -

    Mine was #000 too. #0 was definitely too large. Also there are signs of blue threadlock.

    Nani - Responder

    tried using #000 and #00 but the screw wont turn, any ideas why

    thawdon - Responder

    Ive been trying to unscrew with the correct 000 bit for like 5 minutes and it wont unscrew :/ please help asap

    xenomorphic/dark Mewtwo - Responder

    this screw stripped in like two seconds using the screwdriver included with ifixit’s kit!

    Connor Martini - Responder

    One screw didn’t come off and now it is stripped…. I’m trapped in this step, desperate and questioning all my life choices…….

    ninja android - Responder

  7. Pull the rear panel up and off of the device. Pull the rear panel up and off of the device. Pull the rear panel up and off of the device.
    • Pull the rear panel up and off of the device.

    You appear to be missing a step. The SD card reader needs to be removed between steps 6 and 7.

    zharin - Responder

    Achtet darauf die Backplate nicht zu kippen, wie es die Bilder vermuten lassen. Ich habe beim nach Hinten klappen ein Plastikgewinde an der Backplate abgebrochen. Aufpassen.

    I think the picture is a bit misleading. I tiltet the plate while I was removing it what resulted in an broken off screwmount.

    Leon Grell - Responder

  8. Remove the six 3.1mm Phillips #000 screws from the shield plate.
    • Remove the six 3.1mm Phillips #000 screws from the shield plate.

    Between Step 6 and Step 7, there is a missing step of disconnecting and removing the SD Card reader.

    Theo Mat - Responder

    @theomat Step 7 and 8 show the removal of the SD Card reader.

    Blake Klein - Responder

    Step 7 and 8 do not show that. It is completely missing. You show the card reader as being absent, but now how it came to BE absent. A lot of people will try to pull the shield out, presuming the reader is meant to come out with it. Why not update the guide?

    Daniel Henderson - Responder

    Are you seeing something different then what’s seen in this screenshot? https://jmp.sh/PdfdhSy

    Blake Klein -

    @blakeklein I am not seeing that part of the tutorial, no.

    Nico Robin - Responder

    Now I need to find the screw type of this sd card reader ^^

    Maybe my last 3.1mm philips #000 screw? (reassembling phase)

    Julien Plée - Responder

    Agreed, still missing that step… I don’t have the image that is in your linked screenshot.. but your screenshot doesn’t mention removing a 7th screw anyway. I had my screwdriver underneath trying to pry it open before realizing there was another screw holding it all together.

    beaugalbraith - Responder

  9. Remove the shield plate from the device. A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. For best results, whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate, thick compound such as K5 Pro during reassembly. A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. For best results, whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate, thick compound such as K5 Pro during reassembly.
    • Remove the shield plate from the device.

    • A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. For best results, whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate, thick compound such as K5 Pro during reassembly.

    How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?

    Youji Hong - Responder

    Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..

    MacTek -

    I’d recommend replacing the thermal compound to ensure that the cooling system works as intended.

    Blake Klein - Responder

    When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

    Diego Soto - Responder

    I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound

    Adam Stillman - Responder

    No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.

    MacTek -

    Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.

    Shawn Christensen -

    I really don’t understand in what areas I should be replacing the thermal paste.

    Do I leave the giant pink glob that’s present on the back plate or replace that as well?

    Or do I only apply it under the heat sink and on the motherboard?

    Nik Terzic - Responder

  10. Pull the right loudspeaker connector straight out of the socket on the motherboard. Pull the right loudspeaker connector straight out of the socket on the motherboard.
    • Pull the right loudspeaker connector straight out of the socket on the motherboard.

  11. Gently lift the loudspeaker up by its wires and pull out at a 45 degree angle to remove.
    • Gently lift the loudspeaker up by its wires and pull out at a 45 degree angle to remove.

  12. Pull the left loudspeaker connector straight out of the socket on the motherboard. Pull the left loudspeaker connector straight out of the socket on the motherboard.
    • Pull the left loudspeaker connector straight out of the socket on the motherboard.

  13. Gently lift the loudspeaker up by its wires and pull out at a 45 degree angle to remove.
    • Gently lift the loudspeaker up by its wires and pull out at a 45 degree angle to remove.

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

10 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Blake Klein

Membro desde: 29/01/2017

54.579 Reputação

49 Guias de autoria

Will typical PC thermal paste work? I have a lot of that lying around and I don’t want extra cost (already spending the price of the speakers for the tools alone).

Nico Robin - Responder

Has anyone tried to change the speakers for better ones? And how would that be done?

James Guzman - Responder

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