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Introdução

Follow this guide to replace the rubber conductive button pad and or exterior power and volume buttons.

The Switch uses JIS screws, but you can use a Phillips screwdriver in a pinch. Be very careful not to strip the screws. iFixit's Phillips bits are designed to be cross-compatible with JIS-style screws.

When reinstalling, attach the exterior plastic buttons to the rubber conductive pad and insert them together into the device.

Note: This guide, and the part we sell, are compatible with the original Nintendo Switch model released in 2017, as well as the newer refreshed model released in 2019 (model numbers HAC-001 and HAC-001(-01), respectively).

  1. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement, Release the Joy Con controller locking tabs: passo 1, imagem 1 %32 Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement, Release the Joy Con controller locking tabs: passo 1, imagem 2 %32 Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement, Release the Joy Con controller locking tabs: passo 1, imagem 3 %32
    • Before you begin this repair, make sure the device is completely powered off.

    • Press and hold down the small round button on the back of the Joy Con controller.

    • While you hold down the button, slide the controller upward.

  2. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement, Remove the Joy Con controllers: passo 2, imagem 1 %32 Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement, Remove the Joy Con controllers: passo 2, imagem 2 %32 Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement, Remove the Joy Con controllers: passo 2, imagem 3 %32
    • Continue sliding the Joy Con upward until it's completely removed from the console.

    • Repeat this same process for the other Joy Con.

    • Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the rear panel.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

    Had to use a Y0 from my kit - the Y00 was too small to get a grip on the screw.

    cday - Responder

    I also had a much easier time with Y0 versus Y00. Y00 felt like it was starting to strip the first screw I tried to remove.

    Joe -

    My screws took a little coaxing before they were all ready to come out of the back plate, but I remedied this by turning the screwdriver as little as possible with each turn. Use almost no pressure, except for at the very beginning of each screw’s first turn.

    nin10doh - Responder

    I think my screws are stripped, any way to get them out?

    Banjomanperson - Responder

    I hear that using a rubber band can help? Not 100% sure on that though.

    Pifase -

  3. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement, Remove the top and bottom screws: passo 4, imagem 1 %32 Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement, Remove the top and bottom screws: passo 4, imagem 2 %32
    • Use a JIS 000 driver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the following screws securing the rear panel:

    • One 2.5 mm-long screw on the top edge of the device

    • Two 2.5 mm-long screws on the bottom edge of the device

    • To prevent these tight screws from stripping, apply firm downward force, work slowly and try another JIS 000 or PH 000 driver if the screws won't come out.

    Hey guys, I tried removing the upper screw and it won't go out(neither will it go in) any tips how to fix this?

    Thanks

    Nemysis - Responder

    The screw boss might be stripped out. Has the device been taken apart before? If you can unscrew it a little bit to get the screw to peek out, maybe try and grab it with some pliers as a last-ditch effort.

    Craig Lloyd -

    I have the same problem. The JIS 000 tool works great on the joy con rails per step 5 but refuses to turn the bottom two 2.5 mm screws as in step 4. These bottom screws are noticeably smaller than the screws as in step 5. The JIS 000 does not get down into these screws. Hopefully they haven’t been stripped by the wrong tool. So is there a JIS tool that is smaller than 000? I’m stuck at this point…

    david brown - Responder

    We used the JIS 3.0mm screwdriver for both top and bottom screws and it worked

    Brooklyn Gardner - Responder

    Used PH00 to get these out with no problem.

    cday - Responder

    Fun fact: these screw into little plastic tabs that stick out of the rear panel. Apparently those tabs are fragile and easy to just break off…

    Benjamin Fritz - Responder

    My screws came out fine. But they are easily stripped with too much pressure on reassmbly

    Jaxon Lee - Responder

    this screws are way too fragile and way too small so be careful when taking them off dont use much force and unscrew also one of them fell somewhere and spent 30 mins searching for it

    Richard Aguirre - Responder

    PH000 will work if you don’t have JIS000. The large IFIXIT kit has both and I lost JIS000. Just be very careful as you can strip the heads when removing or inserting easier.

    Shawn Spivey - Responder

    One thing that worked pretty well for me with the screws not coming out is slightly prying on the back cover to put them under some tension

    Florian Kraupa - Responder

    Quick note, these screws are not magnetic. A magnetic screwdriver will hold onto any of the others safely, but you need to be careful not to drop these ones in particular.

    Jason Lane - Responder

  4. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 5, imagem 1 %32 Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 5, imagem 2 %32
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the two 3.8 mm center screws on the sides of the device (one on each side).

    I tried my JIS 000 on Step 5 and was unable to get the screw to budge. It’s partner from the other side came right out with no trouble. Don’t really want to narf up the screw, so I bailed out. Anyone else have this issue?

    mrhoyt - Responder

    Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!

    Craig Lloyd -

    Yeah I’m having this exact issue. Screw stripped and now I’m stuck. Wish I hadn’t even started.

    Ryan Quinn -

    I did finally get it out- one thing I noticed was some of the screws have blue Loctite on the threads. I guess they figure it’ll get tossed around. This underscores the importance of having the correct tools and making double darn sure you are using the correct size, etc.

    mrhoyt - Responder

    What worked for me here was a Phillips 000, not a JIS 000

    Federico Zivolo - Responder

    One of mine is totally stripped. Guess I can’t do anything now.

    Nick - Responder

  5. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 6, imagem 1 %32 Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 6, imagem 2 %32
    • Use your finger to flip up the kickstand on the back of the device.

    • If there's a microSD card in the microSD card slot, remove it now before you continue to the next step.

  6. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 7, imagem 1 %32
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the 1.6 mm screw in the kickstand well.

    • Close the kickstand.

  7. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 8, imagem 1 %32 Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 8, imagem 2 %32 Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 8, imagem 3 %32
    • Open the game card cartridge flap.

    • The game card cartridge flap attaches to the other half of the plastic shell, preventing you from completely lifting up the rear panel if it's closed.

    • Lift the rear panel up from the bottom of the device and remove it.

    How to remove micro SD port?

    Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.

    Christopher Hernandez - Responder

    This step is missing in this guide. Here are the steps from another guide:

    Step 9) Nintendo Switch Right Joy Con Sensor Rail Replacement

    Step 10) Nintendo Switch Right Joy Con Sensor Rail Replacement

    David - Responder

  8. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement, Remove the shield plate: passo 9, imagem 1 %32
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the six 3 mm screws securing the shield plate to the device.

    Some models have a small board in the lower left beneath the kickstand which accepts SD cards. This will have to be carefully removed with its connections popped out, then replaced after.

    Draque Thompson - Responder

    Yeah, that “small board” is the microSD Card reader chip, which was covered literally one step ago. All models have a microSD Card reader, that’s how game data is stored…

    nin10doh -

  9. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 10, imagem 1 %32 Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 10, imagem 2 %32
    • Use your fingers or a pair of tweezers to peel back the piece of foam on the top edge of the device near the fan exhaust port.

    • If the foam doesn't easily peel away, don't force it as it might end up tearing. Carefully peel at different spots to pull back the foam.

    My Switch (bought about two weeks after launch) seems to be missing this foam piece… Was it added later, similar to the foam piece in the left joy-con (to improve connectivity)?

    firetech - Responder

    It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.

    Craig Lloyd -

    My launch Switch also does not have this piece of foam, so it was most likely added later.

    Christoph -

  10. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 11, imagem 1 %32 Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 11, imagem 2 %32 Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 11, imagem 3 %32
    • Insert a spudger underneath the shield plate along the edge of the device.

    • Pry up to lift the shield plate and remove it from the device.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

    • A thick pink thermal compound bridges the gap between the shield plate and the copper heat sink underneath. Whenever the shield plate is removed, refer to our thermal paste guide to remove the old thermal compound and replace it with an appropriate compound, such as K5 Pro, during reassembly.

    How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?

    Youji Hong - Responder

    Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..

    MacTek -

    When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

    Diego Soto - Responder

    I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound

    Adam Stillman - Responder

    No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.

    MacTek -

    Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.

    Shawn Christensen -

    Why was this not included in the tools/equipment list? Getting to this step and now I will have to reverse and wait for yet another order to arrive. ? Very frustrated

    Amanda Nally - Responder

    Hi Amanda,

    Thanks for bringing this up. Sorry! We inadvertently left that part out during the guide refresh. I’ll add the necessary info into the step.

    Arthur Shi -

    To apply new thermal paste, the directions state to use the application method recommended for your specific processor type—vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread.

    Which method should be used for the Nintendo Switch processor?

    Philip W - Responder

    As stated in the comment above, is there a particular method to apply thermal paste to the Switch’s processor? Or as long as you distribute it evenly is enough?

    lievjorg - Responder

  11. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement, Disconnect the battery: passo 12, imagem 1 %32 Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement, Disconnect the battery: passo 12, imagem 2 %32
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

  12. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement, Remove the heat sink: passo 13, imagem 1 %32
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

    • Carefully peel the two foam pieces stuck over both the heatsink and the fan away from the fan.

    • The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

    • The foam is really delicate and tears easily. Use the following technique to peel the foam:

    • Insert the point of a spudger underneath the part of the foam that isn't stuck against anything,

    • Press the top of the foam with your finger to hold it in place.

    • Roll the spudger tip underneath the foam all the way to the other end of the foam to release it.

    spudger technique is perfect.

    Jaxon Lee - Responder

    For anyone who doesn’t have a pen-style spudger, the tip of your JIS 000 screwdriver can be a great alternative tool. The same steps above can be used, just be extra careful not to tear that foam. Roll the tip of the screwdriver the same way you would roll the spudger tip.

    nin10doh - Responder

    Maybe it’s because I’m working on a day one switch and the adhesive is just old and stubborn, but this didn’t work well for me. Am I just completely out of luck, or can I order a replacement for the foam?

    Trae Block - Responder

  13. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 15, imagem 1 %32 Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 15, imagem 2 %32 Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 15, imagem 3 %32
    • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off the motherboard to remove it.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

    • Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

    • Apply thermal paste to all surfaces that had thermal paste applied previously. This includes between the heatpipe and aluminum shield, which the Switch uses as additional heatsinking.

    What's on the heatsink?

    Raven.K - Responder

    Directions for this step say you can use Artic Silver ArctiClean but when adding to iFixit cart it says “This won’t work with your device (Nintendo Switch).

    Dan S. - Responder

    where do i get more of that black fabric like tape that is on the heat sink?

    Regal Pikachu - Responder

    They may sell it in the ifixit store.

    Joshua Graham -

    (1) Exactly how much thermal paste should be applied to the CPU?

    (2) Which application method should be used? The linked instructions list four methods (vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread) but it’s not clear to me which one is appropriate for the Switch. Thanks!

    Travis - Responder

    UPDATE: So, for anyone who also wanted to know the answers to these questions:

    1. I ended up eyeballing the amount. Imagine an amount the size of a pea, then split that amount in half. That’s how much I used, and it worked fine.

    2. The paste (I used K5-Pro as recommended) is quite thick and sticky and difficult to get to behave the way you want, so I ended up just doing the “middle dot” method and spreading it a bit with a popsicle stick before smushing it the rest of the way down with the heat sink. Seems to have done the trick.

    Good luck!

    Travis -

    you can also spread it with the spudger or any non-metalic tool if you are not sure how much you put

    just clean it afterwards

    Richard Aguirre -

    K5 (or thermal pads) is ONLY needed between the copper pipe and metal shield plate. It is a pad replacement compound and is not meant for high heat applications like CPUs as it boils and creates air gaps. Air=bad for heat transfer.

    Regular thermal compound/paste should be used on the CPU. You’ll have a sticky mess to clean but if you want proper cooling it needs to be done. The instructions clearly state that regular compound is used on the CPU.

    Cerus98 -

    i used artic silver 5 and worked just fine

    Richard Aguirre - Responder

  14. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement, Remove the fan: passo 16, imagem 1 %32 Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement, Remove the fan: passo 16, imagem 2 %32
    • Use an opening tool, spudger, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable ZIF connector.

    The little gray tab flew off while I removed the cable. I found it, but I can’t get it back on. Is it possible to install the new fan without it?

    Jesse DuRona - Responder

    No. You will need for professional help to replace the whole ribbon cable connector (ZIF connector).

    CCL13 -

    A step here is skipped. There is a small board which contains the cart reader and headphone out jack. The connector for the headphone jack will need to be popped off and the board unscrewed. It can then gently be pushed out of the way while leaving it otherwise connected. Reconnecting the headphone jack’s cable is tricky as a heads up. Be patient there.

    Draque Thompson - Responder

    That step is immediately above this one. Check out step 21 to 23.

    CCL13 -

  15. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 17, imagem 1 %32 Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 17, imagem 2 %32
    • Use a pair of tweezers to pull the fan cable straight out of its connector on the motherboard.

    Will need to remove parts and board in top left in order to get to 3rd fan screw.

    Christopher Hernandez - Responder

  16. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 18, imagem 1 %32
    • Use a JIS 000 screwdriver or an official iFixit PH 000 driver to remove the three 4.8 mm screws securing the fan.

  17. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 19, imagem 1 %32 Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 19, imagem 2 %32
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to lift the fan straight up and remove it from the device.

    • Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components (such as the rubber bushings) to the new part before installing.

  18. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement, Power and Volume Button Board: passo 20, imagem 1 %32 Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement, Power and Volume Button Board: passo 20, imagem 2 %32
    • Use a spudger to flip up the small black locking flap on the power/volume ribbon cable ZIF connector.

  19. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 21, imagem 1 %32
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the taped down power/volume ribbon cable.

    I was able to replace the LCD and touch glass on my son's Switch. Everything went well the LCD worked again the screen too ... everything really ... except the ON / OFF buttons and volume ... I opened the switch again and tried to put the Ribbon Flex Cable back on the ZIF connector. As I was getting unnerved, I ended up detaching the ZIF connector from the motherboard, which came out broken. Now I look for this ZIF connector on the internet and I can't find it. Can anyone help me? Thank you

    Joao Paulo Couto - Responder

  20. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 22, imagem 1 %32 Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 22, imagem 2 %32
    • Remove the power/volume board with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.

  21. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement, Exterior Power and Volume Buttons: passo 23, imagem 1 %32
    • Pull the rubber conductive pad out with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.

  22. Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 24, imagem 1 %32 Nintendo Switch Exterior Power and Volume Button Replacement: passo 24, imagem 2 %32
    • Pull the power and volume buttons out with a pair of blunt nose tweezers.

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

7 outras pessoas concluíram este guia.

Blake Klein

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2 comentários

What happens if the small black locking flap breaks?

James Funderburk - Responder

Two angles are congruent if they have the same measure. You already know that when two lines intersect the vertical angles formed are congruent. You have also seen that if ∠A and ∠B are each complementary to ∠C, then ∠A ~= ∠B. There are other angle relationships to explore. When you expose these angle relationships, you will establish their truth using a formal proof.

Qui Ma - Responder

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