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O que você precisa

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    • Insert a SIM card ejection tool into the hole on the SIM card tray, located on the left edge of the phone.

    • Press in to eject the SIM card tray.

    • Remove the SIM card tray.

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    • Place an opening pick in the opening of the SIM card tray slot and twist it sideways to release the first plastic clip that holds the rear panel in its place.

    • Slide the opening pick around the top edge of the phone to release the plastic clips that secure the rear panel.

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    • Continue to slide the opening pick around all sides of the phone to release all clips that secure the rear panel.

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    • Tilt the opening pick to lift the rear panel a little bit.

    • There are two more plastic clips next to the fingerprint sensor. Release them by gently pulling the rear panel.

    • Remove the rear panel.

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    • Remove the ten 3.6 mm Phillips screws that secure the midframe.

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    • Insert an opening pick into the SIM card tray slot and twist the opening pick sideways to release the plastic clips.

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    • Continue sliding the opening pick around the upper part of the midframe to release the plastic clips.

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    • Use the plastic pick to pry open the plastic clips on the long edge of the midframe and on the bottom edge.

    • Make sure the clips on the long edge are released. The midframe is prone to break here if they are not disconnected properly.

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    • Make sure all the clips are free.

    • Carefully remove the midframe.

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    • Use the edge of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery flex cable located at the bottom right of the motherboard.

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    • Use an iOpener to loosen the adhesive beneath the battery. Apply the iOpener on the back of the phone for at least two minutes.

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    • Try your best not to deform the battery during the following removal process. Soft-shell lithium-ion batteries can leak dangerous chemicals, catch fire, or even explode if damaged. Do not use excessive force or pry at the battery with metal tools.

    • Insert the flat end of a spudger under the bottom left corner of the battery and gently pry upwards.

    • The adhesive is only located beneath the edges of the battery so there's no need to pry beneath its center.

    • If you are having trouble prying up the battery, the adhesive may not be loose enough. You can apply some isopropyl alcohol under each corner of the battery and allow it to penetrate for several minutes to help weaken the adhesive.

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    • Insert the flat end of a spudger under the bottom right corner of the battery and gently pry upwards to loosen the remaining adhesive.

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    • Remove the battery.

    • Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

    • Before installing a new battery remove any remaining adhesive from the phone, and clean the glued areas with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth.

    • Secure the new battery with pre-cut adhesive or double-sided adhesive tape. In order to position it correctly, apply the new adhesive into the phone at the places where the old adhesive was located, not directly onto the battery. Press the new battery firmly into place for 5-10 seconds.

  15. Cuidado: as etapas de 15 a 18 são provenientes de um guia marcado como em andamento.

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    • Use an iOpener to loosen the adhesive beneath the rear facing camera. Place the iOpener across the top part of the phone for about 30 seconds.

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    • Apply the flat end of a spudger to the left side of the rear facing camera and carefully lever it up. Make sure all of the adhesive underneath is loosened.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the display flex connector.

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    • Grip the lower part of the motherboard with your fingers and carefully lift it upwards.

    • There's a small plastic clip next to the rear-facing camera that holds the motherboard in place.

    • Gently pull the motherboard towards the bottom edge to free it from the plastic clip next to the rear-facing camera.

    • Carefully lift the motherboard out of the frame.

    • Be careful—the two cameras are still connected to the board.

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    • Use an iOpener or a heat gun over the digitizer ribbon cable to soften the adhesive that secures it to the plastic housing.

    • The Nexus 5X pictured here does not have a layer of shielding tape over the digitizer panel. If this tape is present on your device, simply peel it away from the plastic frame to free the digitizer panel.

    • You'll need to transfer or replace this strip of shielding tape when you install your new screen.

    • Gently wedge the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the battery housing and the digitizer ribbon cable, or use your fingers to gently pull the digitizer ribbon cable free.

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    Ferramenta utilizada nesse passo:
    Heat Gun
    $24.99
    Comprar
    • Use an iOpener or a heat gun to soften the adhesive underneath the edges of the screen.

    • In case you're using a heat gun hold it approximately 8 inches from your screen, and apply heat along the edges in a gentle back-and-forth motion for roughly 2 minutes.

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    • Use a suction cup and firmly pull the screen away from the frame to create a small gap.

    • This should not require excessive force. Apply additional heat as needed to soften the screen adhesive.

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    Ferramenta utilizada nesse passo:
    iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6)
    $4.99
    Comprar
    • Insert a plastic opening pick into the gap between the screen and the plastic housing.

    • Slide the plastic opening pick along the border of the screen to free the screen from any remaining adhesive.

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    • Remove the LCD screen & digitizer assembly.

    • Gently feed the digitizer ribbon cable through the frame.

    • Transfer your earpiece and speaker mesh to your new screen.

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Richard

Membro desde: 02/07/17

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23 comentários

Good guide, but not the end all - this guide doesn't accurately reflect how difficult the cameras and battery can be to remove. Also, if you are replacing the LCD+digitizer+frame, you will need to remove the LED, headphone jack, and vibration motor

Jay Miley - Responder

Hello Jay! Thank you for your comment. I've added some of the details you mentioned to help our readers. Guide specifics can vary since it's not always possible to judge the state of a reader's particular device, but that's the beauty of a repair wiki! We can all pitch in and create a comprehensive guide.

You are correct—additional components and/or parts may need to be transferred or removed depending on the replacement. You certainly can remove the LED panel, headphone jack, and vibration motor, but it is not required to free the LCD screen and digitizer in this guide. The cameras are removed in this guide due to their fragility and the potential for component damage during the replacement.

Always research replacement kits and parts before ordering, and make sure you've got everything you need for a successful repair!

Richard -

This guide helped tremendously, things got a little confusing after step 10 (my replacement screen came with the frame, which I think is the better option). As Jay Miley pointed out there are several other steps required for moving components from the old frame (and unfortunately it's easy to overlook some of the smaller pieces), but it was still nice to have this guide to reference.

Craig - Responder

Hiya Craig! I'm glad to hear that your replacement went well even though you had the +frame replacement part. There are two screen replacement options for the 5X; the +frame replacement part for the 5X requires additional components and gaskets to be transferred from your old frame. I'll try to get a guide up for the LCD & digitizer +frame replacement part in addition to this guide.

Richard -

I had a pre-assembled screen / frame so the only real difference was:

* heatgun and remove headphone jack

* power / volume buttons also needed to be switched over (very small flat head screw driver to pop-up)

Andrew Baron - Responder

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