Introdução
Use this guide to remove and replace a degraded or damaged battery in a Motorola Moto Z2 Force.
Before you begin, download the Rescue and Smart Assistant app to backup your device and diagnose whether your problem is software or hardware related.
For your safety, discharge your battery below 25% before disassembling your phone. This reduces the risk of a dangerous thermal event if the battery is accidentally damaged during the repair. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.
Warning: The screen assembly of this device is comprised of a rigid midframe and a flexible plastic display that can split apart during disassembly. Excessive heat on the display can also cause it to bubble up or warp, which is very difficult to remedy. If you plan on reusing the screen assembly, heed all warnings carefully and do not use any heat on the display.
O que você precisa
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When separating the sides of the screen assembly from the device's frame, you will need to release five metal clips securing it in place.
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Three of these clips are located on the left side of the device, and two are located on the right side.
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You will need to work around these clips with your opening pick in order to fully release them.
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You can either carefully slide an opening pick around these clips, or leave a pick on one side of the clip while prying the other side with another pick.
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Insert a Jimmy or other metal tool between the right side of the plastic display and the metal frame, near the phone's side buttons.
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Tilt the Jimmy downward while continuing to push it deeper into the gap to pry up the right side of the screen assembly.
No — *slaps wrist* No. Bad steps! Don’t use the suction cup at all, ever. It causes the two layers to separate immediately, long before the frame clips give way to let the screen come off.
I’m being super ultra very careful with this second attempt on a new device (that was in pretty pristine condition, if I can keep it that way!), and right when I tried pulling as instructed, the screen layers started to pull apart. Use a blade shoved into the edge of the phone and pry it apart, releasing the latches in the process!
I have to agree with Matt above. At the smallest bit of pressure on the suction cup, the screen de-laminated from the metal base. It still “works”, but….
None of the tools in the kit is terribly suited for getting in there and prying that clip apart without splitting the screen.
lease Read the Comments poste on “STEP 2”, When you apply the heat, the screen becomes unglued from the metal fram that it is attached to. I ended up damaging my screen. You need to make sure that what is coming unglued is the metal, and not just the plastic screen. I found out when I saw another video, where they do not apply heat, they just use a tool to pry the frame-display assembly… But apparently it was too late… You should be more specific about the warning…
A jimmy does not come with the kit. Buy one before beginning this procedure. It is the best way to lift the screen assembly without damaging the assembly.
This whole guide has been rewritten since my last comment, and I super appreciate it. The steps are now much more appropriate and less likely to cause damage. Jamming your Jimmy (huehue) into the edge of the screen is actually quite a good idea, not likely to hit anything as there’s nothing but body underneath it.
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Slide your opening pick all along the right side of the device to release the clips and adhesive securing the screen assembly.
this is really for the digitizer and screen replacement. there are still more steps for just the screen.
There is an enormous amount of adhesive sticking this thing together. As the adhesive is not essential (it holds together with clips, mostly), you really need to focus on *removing* the adhesive, so that it doesn’t stretch and bunch-up, preventing clean reassembly. Leave behind the adhesive that you can prevent from bunching-up (by cleanly breaking it, in turn by holding down one edge to the phone or screen), so you have some sticky left, but just make sure it’s not bunched-up.
Revisiting this comment a year later: there’s now replacement adhesive available (or maybe there always was - wish I knew!) for this model in the iFixit store. So, it would be best to remove the adhesive whereever you see it, cleaning everything up and preparing for the new adhesive. That darn adhesive in step 9 below, though… ugh. Work slow, don’t expect it to all be apart by this point.
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Once the screen assembly's right edge is separated, slide your pick around the bottom right corner of the device so it is underneath the bottom edge of the assembly.
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Slide the tool all along the bottom edge of the phone to slice through the adhesive securing the screen assembly and release the plastic clips.
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Leave your tool underneath the bottom edge of the screen assembly to prevent it from re-adhering to the frame. Continue to the next step with a new tool.
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Insert another opening pick underneath the bottom edge of the screen assembly and slide it around the bottom left corner of the device so it is underneath the assembly's left edge.
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Slide your tool all along the left edge of the phone to separate the metal clips and adhesive securing the screen assembly.
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There are two large pads of adhesive securing the screen assembly near the top edge but further past the 4 mm that have already been sliced through.
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The front facing sensor array and cable surround the right patch of adhesive from the top and right, so prying or slicing from the top or right edge may damage the cable. The following steps will describe how to separate the adhesive from the left edge.
This is a tricky part. See the biggest red-squared section in the photo above? That part always wants to detach — the adhesive to the screen is stronger than the molding that holds the metal into the plastic. The metal will detach from the plastic pretty easily, and there’s no way to get that metal back into the plastic frame (as it seems to have been molded as a single part). So, the adhesive is a booby-trap.
To defuse the booby-trap, heat the heck out of it, insert one end of tweezers (or perhaps a spudger) from the right side, hold the metal plate down, and verrry slooowwly convince the adhesive to separate. At some point, it’ll start cascading and snap free.
The metal finger area, between the two red squared sections above, also is a problem area — it’s latched into a frame above the battery, and those latches can get pulled up on top of the frame, preventing the phone from reassembling clean and flat. Make sure to re-insert those tabs so that little edge with the metal fingers sits flat and proper.
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Insert an opening pick as deep as possible under the top left corner of the screen assembly to slice through the left patch of adhesive.
I found that a plastic card inserted from the left side, and worked with a sawing motion, between the screen and the adhesive worked great after the adhesive was softened by the alcohol.
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Slowly and carefully slide the flat end of a spudger under the left edge of the screen assembly. Gradually insert it deeper to pry up the top edge of the assembly and release the right patch of adhesive.
Again, pay careful attention to the strong block of adhesive sticking the display to a metal shield that’s molded into the plastic frame - the adhesive strength is quite likely to pull out the metal shield from the plastic frame and there’s no going back from that. Not as catastrophic as ripping a ribbon cable, but still pretty bad. See my comment a couple photos up about that.
I added some alcohol directly to the adhesive patches on this side of the phone and waited a couple of minutes before continuing with this step.
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Lift the screen assembly from the right edge and swing it open. It is still attached to the phone chassis at the lower left edge, so do not fully remove it yet.
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If the screen assembly remains stuck, slice the adhesive repeatedly as needed.
Do this only after slicing all the little ribbons of adhesive that hang around - and clean up any gummed-up, bunched-up strands of adhesive after removing it. I worked at detaching adhesive until the screen was totally free, only held by the ribbon cable, before moving on from this step.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the black piece of tape covering the battery connector.
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Use a spudger to pry up the locking tab on the display cable's ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to slide the display ribbon cable out of the connector.
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Remove the screen assembly.
When reconnecting the display ribbon I found it much easier if you straighten out major 45/90 degree bend that is in the middle of the ribbon until the entire ribbon is all unbent and in parallel with the display face. You will then have a straight shot into the connector without having to hold the display at a 90 degree angle to the chassis and then having to look around, over or through the display to (and if luck is with you) find, lineup and insert the ribbon into the connector. You have to do a little in 3 dimensional thinking to re-bend the ribbon and line the display back up with the chassis but if you’ve made it that far then you should have no problems. Don’t bend the ribbon back and forth too many times.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the two black pieces of tape securing the battery.
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Use an opening pick to pry up the small black bracket covering the battery connector. It is secured with a small bit of adhesive.
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Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the bracket.
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Use a spudger to pry up and disconnect the battery connector.
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Apply a freshly heated iOpener to the back of the phone directly behind the battery for two minutes to help soften the adhesive. Re-heat and reapply the iOpener as necessary.
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Alternatively, apply high-concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery to weaken the adhesive underneath.
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Insert a flexible plastic tool on the left edge of the battery. We use an opening pick here, but a playing card is a safer (albeit slower) option.
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Gently pry up the battery with constant steady force.
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Try to slowly release the battery's adhesive without deforming the battery. If the battery begins to bend out of shape, pry slower or apply more heat/isopropyl alcohol. Several rounds of heating or alcohol may be necessary.
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Slowly work your tool underneath the battery and continue prying until it is completely released from its adhesive.
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Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then, use it until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers Community for troubleshooting help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then, use it until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers Community for troubleshooting help.
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14 comentários
Anyone knows where to get the lcd glue/tape/adhesive?
I got everything out, got a new battery, the screen works but the touchscreen doesn’t, anyone had the same problem?
Wow! This guide is way, way improved vs last week’s version! Nice work, Tarun! I picked up a “bad IMEI” copy of my Z2 Force on eBay to replace the damaged screen, and I’ll step my way through this when transplanting the screen. Thanks!
Please Read the Comments poste on “STEP 2”, When you apply the heat, the screen becomes unglued from the metal fram that it is attached to. I ended up damaging my screen. You need to make sure that what is coming unglued is the metal, and not just the plastic screen. I found out when I saw another video, where they do not apply heat, they just use a tool to pry the frame-display assembly… But apparently it was too late… You should be more specific about the warning…
I saw that video (i think it’s the same) on youtube too and it is misleading. It looks like they already removed the screen and did a second take for the video. There is no way the screen can be removed without heat. My phone was bulging and separated on the left side which gave me room to put the pick in but the adhesive was too strong to continue removing the entire screen. Once I used the iopener the pick was able to separate the screen without issue. I just moved slowly and didn’t use too much force.
jon -
Worked great! Thanks for the instructions. One must be patient and work slowly to separate the screen from the frame and since the screen is plastic it’ll take the iopener longer for heat to conduct through to the adhesive. I initially used the 90 minute rule on the iopener instructions but that wasn’t enough. I reread the OP’s instructions and used the two minute rule which worked great.
Add to Instructions: Remove all adhesive, especially around the perimeter, using the spudger or tip prior to reassembly. It’s very thin so be diligent. If you’re not careful, you’ll end up doubling up tape and the screen won’t sit flush. The precut display adhesive pattern only applies to the perimeter so make sure to cut additional adhesive for the areas at the top and bottom. Compare the screen adhesive pattern and you can see what areas that need the additional adhesive.
I used aluminum foil tape to re-adhere the conductive tape to the new battery. This tape is used to seal ventilation ducts for furnaces and AC systems.
Worked but almost damaged my screen. I have just a small black spot on one edge, that does not affect usability. I didn't had to remove the main board to remove the battery. When the camera was disassembled, I had enough space to go under the battery carefully with the spudger step by step and removed it without bending the battery.
I agree that the plastic card is the best tool to use for lifting the battery. It worked great with 2 minutes of the iOpener and a little alcohol. I used a gentle blower to dry the alcohol before reassembly. I found the entire process took about 40 minutes from start until I had books sitting on the phone to anchor the display and the charger plugged in to bring the battery up for the calibration.
Thanks for this guide….everything appears to bee working after putting it all back together. Now to see if replacing the battery fixes the random “where’s the battery?” screens I was getting. Note: I have an iOpener but never used it. Used 99% alcohol a few times to loosen the adhesive and that did the trick. Thoroughly cleaned the old adhesive round the edges and tried to preserve the adhesive patches at the top. With the replacement adhesive in the battery kit…phone looks like it was never taken apart.
Old phone gets new battery and it is working fine. Everything went as described. Tip: be sure to read the extra comments for each step to make things even easier. The hardest part for me was breaking the adhesive grip tape that seals and secures the perimeter between the case and display. Suggest you take your time, working slowly as eventually they do separate with damaging anything.
Ive done the screen and battery. Have you guys encountered boot looping with replacing them?
And if so how did you fix the bootloop. Using oem battery. I do not want to hard wipe it
