Introdução
Use this guide to replace a broken display on your MacBook Unibody Model A1342.
Vídeo de Apresentação
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Remove the eight 4 mm Phillips screws securing the lower case to the MacBook.
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Slightly lift the lower case near the vent opening.
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Continue running your fingers between the lower and upper cases until the upper case pops off its retaining clips.
Do the retaining clips have to be re-engaged when replacing the lower case?
Answering my own question, the clips re-engage when the lower case is correctly positioned. You can help them by gently pressing the lower case with your thumbs midway along the two short sides. When everything is correctly aligned the eight screw holes line up.
Rather than running your fingernail down the sides to free up the retaining clips, I found that using an old credit card, inserted about 1/4”, to run along the left and right side popped those end retaining clips right off with no problem. You may need to twist the card slightly when in the middle area to help pop those off.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.
you do not need to remove the battery when replacing the hard drive or ram
Be careful of the corner of the battery cable connector when trying to pry it off with the spudge. I knocked the corner of mine. No operational impact but was not very pleasing!
Not necessary, but a good idea, so as to avoid any spurious charges going through the boards...
@Svenaustx - What could happen if not removing this battery? Worst case? Not a geek on this but did change RAM on my Macbook Pro "15. Can't remember disconneting the battery back then. Shouldn't it be sufficient shutting the Mac off and ensure it has been used for an hour or so before replacing RAM?
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Remove the following screws from the optical drive side of the rear vent:
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Two 10 mm T8 Torx
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Two 5.2 mm Phillips
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I have a problem with the two middle screws
same here...
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Remove the following screws from the port side of rear vent:
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Two 10 mm T8 Torx
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Two 5.2 mm Phillips
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Carefully lift the rear vent out of the upper case.
you can actually stop disassembling now and try to replace it now. after removing two t6 screws it came off pretty easily
Good tip, thanks! I skipped ahead to step 17 and had no problem getting the magsafe board out from under the logic board and the new one installed. Saves a lot of work disconnecting connectors indicated as Fragile!
matt15 -
Thank You! Saved me an hour or so of work and a lot of stress!
I also did Step 6, then skipped to Step 17 & 18. Once I had the display data cable off, I could remove the 2 T6 Torx screws holding the MagSafe board on and remove it. You can reach under the logic board with the point of the spudger to work the cable out of the socket. Note how you maneuver the board out of the tight space so you can maneuver it back in. When you put the new MagSafe board in, plug in the cable first. If you bend the wires so the plug approaches the socket at the appropriate angle, you can nudge it in with the pointed end of the spudger.
Thanks a lot for this hint! You saved my macbook, when I failed to unscrew the fan because of one completely destroyed screw. Thanks to your comment I skipped steps 7-16 and went straight to replacing the magsafe board without problems. The spudger and some 3D imagination and done,
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Remove the single 3 mm Phillips screw securing the AirPort/Bluetooth antenna ground strap to the rear speaker.
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Use the tip of a spudger to pry the AirPort and Bluetooth antenna connectors (3 total) up off the AirPort/Bluetooth card.
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De-route the long antenna from its channel in the rear speaker housing.
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Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.
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There is also a thin metal lock clip under the plastic tab that has to be released ( Use the tip of a spudger ) before you can disconnect the display data cable.
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Gently pull the display data cable connector away from its socket on the logic board.
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Open your MacBook so the display is perpendicular to the upper case.
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Place your opened MacBook on a table as pictured.
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While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining 7.8 mm with lock washer T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.
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Remove the last remaining T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.
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Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.
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Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.
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Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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2 comentários
Great guide worked perfectly....
The problems I encountered….
1) (IMPORTANT) The vent cover has a small beveled slot were the picture cable fits into nicely and the first time I reassembled my mac I did not allow the cord adequate space between the vent cover and the computer housing. This lead to a red, green, and blue alternating screen upon booting and troubleshooting the issue to find out that it was just a pinched cable took longer than I would have liked.
2) The picture cable removal and reassembly was not as seamless as it seemed in the picture. The metal connector under the cable was very flimsy and weak. It did not break however it did bend slightly and I wasn’t the happiest about it.
3) The power cord broke (chipped) a small amount. As previously mentioned. Not a big deal but not fun. (Be careful)
Whole process took 45 min… very easy
Couldn’t have done it without the guides and the tools
Thanks for saving me like $300
In your opinion, could I replace the screen of my A1342 (2011) by the screen of a A1181 (mid 2009)?
They seem to be identical.
According to this page http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1651?viewl..., the 8 screws are not identical.
Can anybody tell me where each kind of screw is supposed to go?
Gregoire - Responder
They are all 100% Identical. You were probably looking at a different model, or Apple has entered the wrong information... Hey, It happens...
weeowey weeowey -
The screws on the Late 2009 are identical. The blue lock compound might make tightening some require a little more effort.
svenaustx - Responder
Can I replace it with a SATA 3 cable?
nm - Responder
A1342 macbook does not have the right controller to support sata III
weeowey weeowey -
hi, i just got back from the apple store and they are really keen for me to upgrade to a new laptop since my battery is old and the screen is cracked, so glad i found ifixit i would love to upgrade this puppy! gonna make it a real sleeper! styler hall wrote about sticking 16 gb of ram in his a 1342 ? is this a simply mather of ordering 3 4gb sticks ?aslo i currently have 4 gb and would like to upgrade to 8 ( or indeed 16) does that mean i need to buy all new sticks or can i continue to use the old one and stick a new one next to it ?
thanks again mick van aar, perth western aus.
michelvanaar - Responder
The A1342 will take up to 16 GB of RAM, however, there are only two RAM slots, so use two 8-GB RAM modules. Other World Computing (OWC) is a great reference source for info on exactly which RAM to use with which model; prices are usually much better on EBay though. Add an SSD from OWC and your machine will really scream!
I hope that helps!
gdesbrisay -
Gregoire is right. The 8 screws are absolutely NOT identical, I’m looking at them right now, weeowey weeowey.
John Guzman - Responder