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MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement

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  1. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement, Access Door: passo 1, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement, Access Door: passo 1, imagem 2 %32
    • With the case closed, place the Unibody top-side down on a flat surface.

    • Depress the grooved side of the access door release latch enough to grab the free end. Lift the release latch until it is vertical.

    The A1286 has no Access Door.!!

    I actually can see no sign of the battery!...

    aguib - Responder

    Citação de aguib:

    The A1286 has no Access Door.!!

    I actually can see no sign of the battery!...

    I assume you have the newer model, with the built-in battery. It's still removable with tools, but these are the wrong instructions for that model.

    lgc90 - Responder

    when will there be a guide for the other unibody macbook pro. that does not have an access door?

    irishking - Responder

    Is there a manual to show, how disasembly the display, i mean, after step 5, to check the display between lcd and aluminiun back case?

    Max

    Max - Responder

    On other guides you state the height of the HD that can be supported, e.g. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Model A1211 Hard Drive Replacement , I have read ( but have not confirmed ) that the uni-body MacBook Pro can be fitted with the 750GB and 1TB 12mm drive from Western Digital.

    Can you confirm this?

    Many thanks in advance.

    ahothabeth - Responder

    Citação de SHerwood Ball:

    My display and aluminum casing has separated.

    I don't know if it just snaps back together or does it need to be glued.

    I dropped mine on the carpeted stairs and the display still works.

    I'm hoping I can just snap it back together and that no plastic pieces or teeth of the snapping

    portion have been broken........

    SHerwood Ball - Responder

    When you say "left fan" is this "left when looking at the logic board after turning the computer over and looking it up opening it up" or "left when sitting at the computer keyboard and typing on it"?

    thvv - Responder

    We always use left and right in reference to the computer when you're using it.

    Andrew Optimus Goldheart -

    Directions were great and the worn dc in board was replaced. The hardest part of the procedure is disconnecting the data display cable. A better description of step 21 is to slide the connector parallel to the circuit board towards the outside corner. Reconnecting correctly took several tries.

    I used the tip of the spudger to nudge the corners a little at a time to seat the connector.

    The ribbon connector for the keyboard has to be inserted all the way before seating the retaining cap. It took me three tries . First try power button did not work second try numbers keys did not work.

    Thanks for the directions ...could not have done it with out them!!!

    landryd - Responder

    Hola. Poseo un MacBook Pro Late 2008 y debo cambiarle las cornetas. Me sirve unas cornetas de un MBP Late 2011?

    jegonzalez80 - Responder

    Please read the instructions about removing the bluetooth cable - you CAN work around it, and NOT take off the plug.

    kenneth krabat - Responder

  2. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 2, imagem 1 %32
    • The access door should now be raised enough to lift it up and out of the Unibody.

  3. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement, Battery: passo 3, imagem 1 %32
    • Be sure the access door release latch is vertical before proceeding.

    • Grab the translucent plastic tab and pull the battery up and out of the Unibody.

    • If the latch is depressed it will lock the battery in place.

    Do I need to wait for the battery to charge completely before using the computer (while plugged in)?

    Kaila Potts - Responder

    No. You do not need to charge it completely before removing it.

    Titus (#1579) - Responder

  4. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement, Lower Case: passo 4, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the following eight screws securing the lower case to the chassis:

    • One 5.4 mm Phillips screw.

    • Three 14 mm Phillips screws.

    • Four 3.5 mm Phillips screws.

    Hi, My name is Jess I need help asap I accidentally dropped my macbook Pro and i cant find the silver screw for the top left back side, Does any one know if I can replace it with an eye glass screw?? If you can help at all Please e-mail me at Chambliss_jess@yahoo.com thx please help me my bf is going off... ;(

    Jess - Responder

    The fixit PH00 is the wrong screw driver for this entire job. It did not fit in the screws, it was too pointy and caused screws to be rounded off.

    mattrittgers - Responder

  5. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 5, imagem 1 %32
    • Using both hands, lift and remove the lower case off the upper case.

    About midway along each edge is a snap. To release each snap, gently slide the flat edge of a Spudger under the lower case, then lift the lower case away.

    jonathansturges - Responder

  6. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement, Mid Wall: passo 6, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the following 5 screws securing the mid wall to the upper case:

    • Three 10.5 mm Phillips screws.

    • Two 3.7 mm Phillips screws.

  7. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 7, imagem 1 %32
    • Lift the mid wall out of the upper case.

  8. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement, Logic Board: passo 8, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove the following six screws securing both the right fan and the left fan to the logic board:

    • Four 3.5 mm Phillips screws.

    • Two 3.2 mm Phillips screws.

    Pry under the side where the wires connect.

    colleenthompson - Responder

    I think this the screw dimensions may be reversed. My late 2008 Unibody had four 3.2mm and two 3.5mm.

    Christian Lallo - Responder

  9. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 9, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 9, imagem 2 %32 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 9, imagem 3 %32
    • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the right fan connector straight up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to only pry up on the connector itself not on the socket or you may damage the machine.

    • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

    • Remove the right fan from the case.

    Be really gentle and patient with this connector, I popped the socket right off of the logic board (thankfully the already broken one that I was replacing). It actually shouldn't take much force, and just gently work on it until it comes out.

    Mark Middleton - Responder

  10. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 10, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 10, imagem 2 %32 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 10, imagem 3 %32
    • Use the tip of a spudger to lift the left fan connector straight up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure to only pry up on the connector itself not on the socket or you may damage the machine.

    • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

    • Remove the left fan from the case.

    I unfortunately broke the fan receptacle connector (2 pin) on the board. How do I order a new connector and how do I put it on?

    Kevin Hamby - Responder

  11. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 11, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove any adhesive from the camera cable connector.

    • Disconnect the camera cable by pulling the male end out of its socket, parallel to the logic board, do not lift it upwards.

    There's a little shiny piece of plastic holding this item in place to keep it from sliding out of it's slot. It's glued on and if you don't take it off first, you'll likely bend the connector so that it won't work anymore. Ruined a motherboard because this step was missing.

    maccentric - Responder

    What this guy said - REMOVE the shiny plastic block first. Also the "straight away" means sliding outwards TOWARDS THE OPTICAL BAY - *NOT* upwards.

    Damien - Responder

    I broke the connector for the subwoofer. Do I have to replace the logic board?

    jbp0471 - Responder

    It is not necessary to disconnect the camera cable to remove/replace the left speaker. You can leave the cable connected to save you from damaging it.

    Daniel Fišer - Responder

  12. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 12, imagem 1 %32
    • Use a spudger to carefully pry the optical drive connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

  13. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 13, imagem 1 %32
    • If necessary, peel off the foam bumper covering the subwoofer connector.

    • Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the subwoofer connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Be very careful. This connection is delicate, the socket can be easily broken off the logic board.

    I Broke the subwoofer socket on the logic board. Can I use without subwoofer, or do I now have to replace the logic board?

    jbp0471 - Responder

    Sorry to hear this. Yes, you can use the machine without the subwoofer. To be safe, cover the subwoofer plug with some electrical tape so that it can't cause a short circuit somewhere.

    Marty Swartz -

  14. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 14, imagem 1 %32
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the silver-colored hard drive cable connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

  15. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 15, imagem 1 %32
    • Use a spudger to pry the trackpad connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

  16. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 16, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 16, imagem 2 %32
    • Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the IR/sleep LED ribbon cable retaining flap.

    • Pull the IR/sleep LED ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

    Hi, thanks for this tutorial: it solved my problem.

    But unfortunately I have broken the IR/sleep LED ribbon cable socket on motherboard (cable is ok, socket crumbled): computer works fine but now it doesn't go on standby anymore. Is there a way to fix the cable on motherboard (for example with Kapton tape) or is there a software to manage computer standby?

    Thanks in advance for your help.

    Mary

    mary - Responder

    Hi, thanks for this tutorial, it is really helpful. Unfortunately I cannot push the ribbon cable into the socket. The space is really limited, the cable is hard, and the socket seems to be too narrow. Is there any tool to push this kind of cable in a short space? Very fine plastic tweezers could work? Even without this cable the Mac can work, so I leave it before I break it.

    Hideyuki

    Hideyuki Tatsuno - Responder

  17. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 17, imagem 1 %32
    • Use a spudger to pry the battery indicator light connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pry up under the cable wires to avoid pulling the socket itself off of the logic board.

  18. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 18, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 18, imagem 2 %32
    • Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the keyboard ribbon cable retaining flap.

    • Pull the keyboard ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

    • During reassembly, make sure to fully insert the keyboard ribbon cable back into the ZIF socket.

    I ran into trouble when re-installing the keyboard cable. I got everything put back together, plugged it in, and pressed Power... and nothing happened. I took everything apart again, reseated the heat sink and everything, put it back together... and the Power button didn't respond.

    The MagSafe light came on, and the battery charge lights came on. But it wouldn't power up.

    Finally I figured out that the keyboard cable is really tricky to get in correctly. If you can slide it out with the retaining clip locked (applying very little pressure), then the cable isn't actually in correctly. I had to really fiddle with it, and maybe slide it in one side first, to see that it actually needed to slide in another 1/8th inch or so beyond what felt like "in" the first few times I did it.

    Once I'd secured that cable, my MacBook turned on again without a problem. So far, after just replacing the Thermal Paste (I didn't actually install a new heat sink), the computer is running 20°F cooler than it has in years. Thanks!

    simolinic - Responder

    I think I broke the keyboard ribbon cable, now I have to replace the keyboard.....

    Francesco Zhu -

    I agree. The instructions should place emphasis on seeing how deep this ribbon is. Most ribbons are pretty easy to slot back in. This one is not (maybe because of the colour). The IR/sleep is a b... too!

    Jerome - Responder

    Hi Jerome. Thank you for your feedback. I agree with you and simolinic. There should be a reminder bullet that warns people about the depth of the ribbon cable. Thanks for adding that. Much appreciated.

    Walter Galan -

    Thank you simonlinic, for pointing this out. I was so disapppointed when the MacBook Pro wouldn't start up. I reopened the MacBook and was able to insert the keyboard ribbon cable quite a bit more by pushing agains the top of the cable while inserting it. I tired starting up after that and it still wouldn't start. I took a 15 minute break and then it started up perfectly! I'm grateful to you all!

    Sy Bram - Responder

    Here is the best way to reinsert this cable: MacBook unibody keyboard ribbon cable won't go in Putting a piece of tape on the connector (creating a pull-tab) and pulling it in works great.

    Cooper - Responder

  19. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 19, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 19, imagem 2 %32
    • Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the express card cage ribbon cable retaining flap.

    • Pull the express card cage ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

  20. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 20, imagem 1 %32
    • Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the microphone cable connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Pry up under the cable wires to avoid pulling the socket itself off of the logic board.

    I don't believe this step is actually necessary, the cable is attached on the other side of the logic board and comes along with it, so it just isn't really necessary to disconnect (although it's not hard either).

    Trevor Kemp - Responder

  21. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 21, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 21, imagem 2 %32
    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-in side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket.

    • When disconnecting the display data cable, do not pull on the black tab secured to the cable lock. We recommend wiggling the cable while applying tension to slowly "walk" the connector out of its socket.

    • Make sure the display data cable is placed correctly in its socket during reassembly. Failure to do so will result in a partially visible display or no display image at all.

  22. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 22, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 22, imagem 2 %32
    • Locate the keyboard backlight ribbon cable (near the left fan space).

    • Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the keyboard backlight ribbon cable retaining flap.

    • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable straight out of its socket.

  23. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 23, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove seven 3.2 mm Phillips screws securing the logic board to the upper case.

    • Do not remove the logic board yet! There are connectors attached to the underside of the logic board that must first be disconnected.

    On reassembly, check carefully that none of the fiddly little cables are trapped under the logic board. I had to back up and liberate the subwoofer connector. It takes some careful jiggling to get the sockets seated in the port holes.

    colleenthompson - Responder

    The two screws closest to the optical drive have smaller heads. (May not be critical.)

    Marty Swartz - Responder

  24. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 24, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove two 7 mm Phillips screws securing the DC-in board to the upper case.

    • Note: This step is not completely necessary, but it will make it easier to disconnect the cable that is connected to the DC-in board.

  25. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 25, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 25, imagem 2 %32
    • Remove two 3.5 mm Phillips screws securing the bottom case clip to the upper case.

    • Lift the bottom case clip out of the upper case.

    • Some MacBook Pro Unibodies do not have a bottom case clip and do not require this step.

    My clip is oriented 180 degrees (flipped) from this picture.

    colleenthompson - Responder

    The bottom case clip is screwed to a black plastic bracket that's glued onto the upper case. My replacement upper case did not come with this bracket. I had to carefully pry it off the old upper case, taking care not to break it, and glue it to the new upper case before replacing the logic board.

    colleenthompson - Responder

    I have a 2.66ghz 15inch Unibody Macbook Pro (A1286) and this step was not necessary.

    Andrew Magpoc - Responder

    Citação de Andrew Mostajo:

    I have a 2.66ghz 15inch Unibody Macbook Pro (A1286) and this step (24) was not necessary.

    Andrew Magpoc - Responder

    Apropos to the last tip in this step, the replacement unibody I purchased omitted the receiving end of this clip, but it was in my original. As it only captures (but does not secure) a small metal tab on the bottom cover, I skipped transferring it.

    Brett Deriso - Responder

    Agree with @colleenthompson - mine was also rotated 180 degrees from what is shown, which also matches the other side of the computer.

    Trevor Kemp - Responder

  26. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 26, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 26, imagem 2 %32
    • Carefully lift the logic board assembly from the left side and work it out of the upper case, minding the port side that may get caught during removal.

    • Do not entirely remove the logic board yet!

    • Ensure that the logic board is free from all connections to the upper case (except the battery connector) before proceeding.

    • During reassembly, ensure all connectors and cables are not placed underneath the logic board. Some of the ribbon cables are very thin and fragile.

  27. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 27, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 27, imagem 2 %32
    • Lift the logic board enough to grab the battery connector and pull it straight away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Lift the logic board assembly out of the upper case.

    I didn't have to do this step, I just leaned the logic board up and changed the DC board.

    dmeyer302 - Responder

    Its better to carefuly “flip” the board towards battery compartment and then take the connector out. The way, how it is written here, its badly accessible with fingers and with tweezers and the connector has plastic point which clicks into hole in the middle of connector. So its better to carefully flip the board upside out and then take it carefully out.

    Petr Sourek - Responder

  28. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement, Left Speaker: passo 28, imagem 1 %32
    • Remove two 5 mm Phillips screws securing the left speaker to the logic board.

  29. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 29, imagem 1 %32
    • If necessary, peel up the orange Kapton tape covering the left speaker connector.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up off the logic board.

  30. MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 30, imagem 1 %32 MacBook Pro 15" Unibody Late 2008 and Early 2009 Left Speaker Replacement: passo 30, imagem 2 %32
    • Lift the left speaker assembly out of the logic board.

    • Deroute the microphone cable from the channel in the left speaker and use the tip of a spudger to dislodge the microphone from its housing within the left speaker.

Conclusão

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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How do I get a mother board from ~ VIN, MacBook Pro (15 inch, Mid 2010)

Model Name: MacBook Pro

Model name: MacBookPro6,2

Processor name: Intel Core i5

Processor Speed: 2.4 GHz

Number of Processors: 1

Total number of cores: 2

L2 cache (per core): 256 KB

L3 cache: 3 MB

Memory: 8 GB

Processor Connection Speed: 4.8 GT / s

Boot ROM version: MBP61.0057.B11

SMC version (system): 1.58f17

Serial Number (system): W80460FKAGX

Hardware UUID: B75113BB-15D7-5E66-8407-029768AFA96D

Brushed Motion Sensor:

Here in Rio de Janeiro (Brazil) I can not find

evertonjerre - Responder

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